A List of Internet Supply Sources is on Page 16. Abbreviations are on Page 17.
GAGE: Gage is not important as long as the same size thread and hook are used for all
the pattern pieces. However, since tension can vary in different circumstances, it is
suggested that when making two pieces that must be the same, such as arms and legs, that
you complete both in one sitting.
SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS:
ADJUSTABLE RING: Grasp the yarn between your thumb and forefinger, leaving a
tail at the beginning. Wrap the thread over and around the index finger clockwise,
crossing the thread at the top of the finger. Insert the hook underneath the front thread
that you just crossed, then catch the back thread with the hook, and pull a loop of the
back thread from underneath. Slip the loop off the finger, grasping the working end in
the left hand as if to begin crocheting. Chain 1, work number of stitches required into the
ring. Pull up a long loop, then, grasping the stitches just made with the right hand and
tail with left (or vice versa), pull to tighten ring. Insert hook into long loop and tighten
back against hook. Making sure tail is to the back, skip first chain worked and continue
working pattern.
DC2TOG: Decrease in double crochet: *YOH and insert hook into next stitch, YO and
pull up a loop, YOH and pull through 2 loops on hook; ** repeat * to ** once, YOH and
pull through remaining loops on hook.
SC3TOG: (Insert hook into the next stitch) 3 times, yoh and bring up a loop, YO and
pull through all loops on hook.
CHANGING COLORS IN SINGLE CROCHET (SC): Insert hook into stitch where
change will take place, YO and pull up a loop of old color, YO and pull new color
through both loops on hook.
IMPORTANT NOTE ON STUFFING: The way that you stuff your doll can greatly
affect the quality of the finished product, especially if you are thread-jointing. You’ll be
amazed at the quantity of stuffing that each piece requires. The doll should be stuffed
firmly so that it won’t lose its shape, but not so firmly that the stitches are pulled apart to
the extent that the stuffing shows through in a distracting manner.
WEAVING/HIDING LOOSE THREAD ENDS: When making the doll, you can hide
the loose ends by pulling them to the inside of the piece with a tapestry needle. Pass the
needle through the piece 2 or 3 times to anchor the thread end (always go in and come out
between stitches, being careful not to catch any fabric), then pull the thread taut, and clip
close to the surface so that it disappears inside.
For other pattern pieces, it’s best to weave all loose ends as you finish each piece. If you
can’t hide the beginning tail by working over it for a few stitches, leave a tail that is long
enough to enable you to thread it onto a needle to weave it. When you fasten off, always
leave a tail that is long enough to thread onto a needle and weave.
TO WEAVE LOOSE ENDS: Thread the tail onto a needle. Working on the WS of the
piece and beginning directly beneath the place where you fastened off, insert the needle
underneath and through the upper loops of fabric for a length of 4 or 5 stitches, and then
turn and repeat through 2 or 3 of the same stitches in the opposite direction.

SANTA’S ELF
HEAD:
Always keep hands scrupulously clean when doing any work with the head.
1. Begin with an adjustable ring, make 6 sc in ring OR ch 2 with skin color, 6 sc in 2nd ch
from hook; do not join. Use a piece of contrasting thread as a rnd marker.
2. 2 sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 6 times. (18 sc)
4. Sc in ea sc around. (18 sc)
5. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 9 times. (27 sc)
6 – 10. Sc in ea sc around. (27 sc)
11. Sc2tog, sc in next 12 sc, place a contrasting marker in 12th sc, which you will leave in
to help you locate the center of the face, sc in next 11 sc, sc2tog. (25 sc)
12. Sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 5 sc, sc in next 2 sc, 6 hdc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc,
2 sc in ea of next 5 sc, sc in next 5 sc. (34 sc, 6 hdc)
13. Sc in next 17 sc, sc3tog twice (nose created), sc in next 17 sc. (36 sc)
• Use the blunt end of your hook to push the nose outward.
14. Sc in next 17 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 17 sc. (35 sc)
15. Sc in next sc, (sc2tog, sc in next sc) 4 times, sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc, sk next sc, sc in
next 2 sc, sc2tog, (sc in next sc, sc2tog) 4 times, sc in next sc. (24 sc)
16. Sc in next sc, (sc2tog, sc in next sc) 7 times, sc2tog. (16 sc)
• Push a little bit of stuffing into the nose, then stuff the top half of the head (see note
on stuffing in Special Instructions above).
17. Sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 3 sc, sc in next 6 sc. (19 sc)
18. Sc in next 7 sc, sc2tog 3 times, sc in next 6 sc, (16 sc)
• Continue stuffing. Make sure the cheeks are filled out nicely.
19. Sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog 4 times, sc in next 4 sc. (12 sc)
• Finish stuffing head. Fill out chin. Check shaping from all angles.
20. Sc in next 4 sc, sc3tog, sc in next 4 sc. (9 sc)
SHIRT:
To change colors: At the end of the round, insert hook into 1st sc as if to join with sl st;
instead of bringing through a loop of 1st color, bring through a loop of 2nd color. Do
not cut the yarn until instructed to do so.
21. Join red with sc in next sc after sl st, sc in next 8 st; join with sl st in 1st sc, changing
to white; ch 1, do not turn. Do not cut red until instructed to do so. (9 sc)
• Cut a 4-inch (10cm) piece of chenille stems. Fold the piece in half, then twist the two
sides around each other. Insert one end of the twisted stem into the neck opening and
push it up into the head as far as you can. Stuff the neck around the stem.
22. With white, sc in same pl as joining, sc in next sc, ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in
next 2 ch, sc in next sc on neck, sc in next 4 sc, ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2
ch, sc in next 2 sc on neck; join with sl st in 1st sc, changing back to red; ch 1, do not turn.
Do not cut white until instructed to do so. (15 sc)
23. With red, sc in same pl as joining, sc in next sc, sc in next 2 free lps, 2 sc in next free
lp, move around and make 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, sc in next 2 free lps, 2 sc in
next free lp, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc; join with sl st in 1st sc, changing back to
white; ch 1, do not turn. (25 sc)
24. With white, sc in same place as joining and in each sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc,
changing back to red; ch 1, do not turn. (25 sc)
25. With red, sc in same place as joining and in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc,
changing back to white; ch 1, do not turn. (25 sc)
26 – 35. Repeat rows 24 and 25 five times. (25 sc)
• Cut red and weave the loose end.
UNDIES:
36. Continuing with white, sc in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn.
(25 sc)
37 – 39. Sc in same pl as joining and in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not
turn. (25 sc)
40. Sc in same pl as joining, sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 10 sc, sc2tog twice,
sc in next 4 sc; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn. (22 sc)
41. Sc in same pl as joining, and in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not
turn. (22)
42. Sc in same pl as joining and in next 3 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 10 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 4
sc; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn. (20 sc)
• Stuff top half of body.
43. (Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 5 times around; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn.
(15 sc)
44. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 5 times; join with sl st in 1st sc, FO, leaving a long end for
closing. (10 sc)
• Finish stuffing. Thread the long end onto a tapestry needle and sew a gathering
stitch in and out around the FL’s of the last row. Pull gently but firmly on the thread
to gather and close. Secure the thread, and push the needle into the body at bottom
center, through and out of the body on the back side (always put the needle into and
bring it out of the piece BETWEEN stitches). Run the thread through the body
another time or two to anchor it.

LEGS:
You will be working the shoe from the inside until you get to the heel. Work in BL until
instructed otherwise.
1. Begin with brown and make an adjustable ring (see special instructions), make 4 sc in
ring; pull to gather and close the center. (4 sc)
• Make sure that the loose end is pulled toward you, so that it will be inside the shoe as
you work from the inside.
• Work rows 2 – 10 in BL.
2. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc. (5 sc)
3. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc. (6 sc)
4 – 5. Sc in ea sc around. (6 sc)
6. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 3 times. (9 sc)
7. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 3 times. (12 sc)
8 – 9. Sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
10. Sc in ea sc around; ch 1, turn. (12 sc)
11. Working in both lps, sc in next 8 sc, do not work rem 4 sc; ch 1, turn. (8 sc made, 12
showing)
12 – 14. Sc in both lps of next 8 sc; ch 1, turn. (8 sc made)
15. Turn the back end of the shoe inside out and fold in half vertically, with 4 sc on each
side of the fold. Working in outer lps of the sc of rnd 14, sl st in next 4 pairs of sc’s (e.g.,
insert the hook into the front lp of the 1st sc on the top sc, then into the back lp of the sc
directly behind on the other side; yoh and pull through all lps on hook); FO. (4 joining sl
st)
• Turn back end of shoe right side out.
• Cut a piece of chenille stem that is long enough to fit inside the entire bottom length
of the shoe from tip of toe to heel, turn up at the heel, and extend to just above the top
edge of the heel. (If using sport weight or DK yarn, include enough length to turn the
toe end of the stem back on itself about 1/8″ (4mm), so that the sharp end will not
protrude out of the end of the toe of the shoe.) Insert the stem into the shoe until
touches the tip of the toe (you may need to insert your crochet hook into the tip of the
smaller shoes first to free up any fibers that prevent the stem from going all the way
to the end of the toe). Press the stem against the sole of the shoe all the way from toe
to the heel, then bend the stem upward at a 90 degree angle so that it lies against the
inside edge of the heel.
• Use pliers to snip off the chenille stem at this level.
16. Join shoe color with sc in heel seam, sc in next 3 row ends on side of shoe, sc in next
4 sc across top of shoe, sk next row end, sc in next 4 row ends on other side of shoe; join
with sl st in BL of 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn. (12 sc)
• Notice that after you have joined, the turning ch-1 that pulls across between the last sc
and the joining sc appears to be a stitch. Make sure that you don’t mistake that ch-1
as a stitch. If you ever end up with one more stitch than you need, this may be what
has happened.
17. Sc in same pl as joining and in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn.
(12 sc)
• Stuff the shoe from heel to toe, excluding the narrow part of the toe. Curl the narrow
part of the toe upward and inward.
STOCKING:
18. With RS of heel facing you, and working in the BL, join green with sc in 1st
sc on
row 17, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog, sc in next sc; join with sl st in 1st sc, changing to
red, ch 1, do not turn. (10 green sc)
19. Sc in same pl as joining, sc in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, changing to
green, ch 1, do not turn. (10 red sc)
20. Sc in same pl as joining, sc in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, changing to red,
ch 1, do not turn. (10 green sc)
21 – 26. Repeat rows 20 and 21, then repeat row 20 once more; FO red and green.
• Stuff leg to this point.
27. Working in BL, join white with sc in 1st sc, sc in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc,
ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
28 – 30. Sc in same pl as joining and in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, turn.
(10 sc)
• Continue stuffing.
RIGHT LEG:
31. Sc in same pl as joining and in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, turn. (10
sc)
32. Sc in next 5 sc; ch 1, turn. (5 sc)
33. Sk next sc, sc2tog, sc2tog, sl st in same pl as last st; FO, leaving long end. (3 sc)
LEFT LEG:
31. Sc in same pl as joining and in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not
turn. (10 sc)
32. Sc in same pl as joining and in next 4 sc; ch 1, turn. (5 sc)
33. Sk 1st sc, sc in next sc, sc2tog, sc in last sc; FO, leaving long end.
SHOE CUFF:
34. Working in free lps on the last row of the shoe with RS facing and bottom of shoe
pointed upward, join shoe color with sc in 1st sc after heel seam, sc in next free lp, {ch 3,
sl st in 3rd ch from hook (this is a picot), sc in next 2 free lps}; repeat within { } 6 times
around, picot, join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook; FO. (7 picots)
• Thread the loose end onto a needle and hide it by pulling it inside the shoe.
• Finish stuffing legs.
• Sew the legs to the body. Place the outside flaps (section that extends above row 32)
along the line between the 4th and 5th rows from the bottom of the body, and place
the inner side of the leg between the 1st and 2nd rows from the bottom of the body.
Put some stuffing in the flap before you complete the last 4 stitches or so.


ARMS:
1. With skin color, begin with an adjustable ring and make 5 sc in ring; OR ch 2, 5sc in
2nd ch from hook; do not join, place a rnd marker. (5 sc)
2. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) twice, sc in next sc, turn piece right side out. (7 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 3 times, sc in next sc. (10 sc)
4. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc) twice. (12 sc)
5. Sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
6. (Sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc) twice. (10 sc)
7. Sc in next 4 sc, ch 2, sk next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc. (8 sc, ch-2 sp)
8. Sc in next 4 sc, sc in BL of next 2 ch, sc in next 4 sc; FO with sl st in next sc. (10 sc)
Thumb:
a. With top end of arm toward you, join skin color with sc in 1st free lp
of ch-2 opening of thumb, sc in next free lp, turn corner and sc in row
end, turn corner and sc in FL of next 2 sc, turn corner and sc in row
end; do not join. (6 sc)
b. Working in FL, sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog, sc in next sc. (5 sc)
c. Working in FL, sc in next 2 sc, sk next sc, sc in next sc; FO with sl
st in next sc, leaving long end. (5 sc)
• Thread the long end from the thumb onto a needle.
• Sew a gathering stitch in and out around the stitches of rnd 3; pull to gather and
close. Insert the needle into the center of the thumb, push down through the thumb
into the hand, and bring the needle out on the opposite side of the hand. Pull the
thread through the hand a time or 2 (always going in and out between stitches), then
clip the thread close to the surface so that it disappears inside.
• Stuff hand. Continue stuffing arm as you work.
9. Join red with sc in joining sl st on hand, sc in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc,
changing to white. (10 sc)
10. Sc in same pl as joining and in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, changing back to
red, ch 1, do not turn. (10 sc)
11. Sc in same pl as joining and in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, changing back to
white, ch 1, do not turn. (10 sc)
12 – 23. Repeat rows 10 and 11 six times.
24. Repeat row 10 once more.
25. With red, (sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog) twice; join with sl st in 1st sc, FO red, leaving long
end. (8 sc)
• Cut white. Finish stuffing; do not stuff the last 2 rows.
CUFFS:
1. Ch 12 with green, wrap cuff around doll’s wrist where skin color meets shirt; join with
sl st in 1st ch, FO, leaving long end.
• Sew cuff to arm around wrist.
ATTACH ARMS:
1. Thread the long end remaining at the top of the arm onto a needle. Press the top arm
opening together, with the arm seam on your left, so that there will be 4 sc on each side
of the top seam.
2. Sewing through the outer lps only of each side, stitch the top seam together as follows:
With the thumb pointing toward your left, insert the needle under the outer lp of the 1st
sc
of the side that is facing you, and then insert the needle under the outer lp of the sc
directly across from it.
3. Turn the needle, and reverse the process.
4. Continue across to end; do not cut thread.
5. When attaching the arms, the arm seam will be at the back of the arm, and the
thumb will be facing toward the front. Continuing with the same thread, sew the arm
securely to the body at the edge of the shoulder. Hide the thread end by pulling inside
body.
EARS:
• Note: When you are making the ears, leave a tail at the beginning, so that after you
have sewn the piece in place, you’ll be able to thread the tail onto a needle and pull it
inside the doll to hide it.
LEFT EAR:
1. With skin color, begin with an adjustable ring, having 8 sc in ring, OR ch 2, 8 sc in 2nd
ch from hook; ch 1, turn. (8 sc)
2. RS. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, hdc in next sc, (ch 3, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc
in next ch – picot completed), hdc in side bar of last hdc made, 2 sc in sc, sc in next sc, sl
st in same pl; FO, leaving long end for sewing. (9 sc, 2 hdc, picot, sl st)
RIGHT EAR:
1. Repeat row 1 of left ear.
2. RS. Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, hdc in next sc, (ch 3, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in
next ch, hdc in side bar of last hdc made – picot completed), sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next
sc, sc in next sc, sl st in same pl; FO, leaving long end for sewing. (9 sc, 2 hdc, picot, sl
st)
• Pin the ears in place; move them around until you are satisfied with the placement,
then sew in place along the base of row 1.
FACIAL FEATURES
DEFINE FEATURES WITH NEEDLE SCULPTING (OPTIONAL):
*Thread a long needle with skin color (same thread or yarn used to make doll); do not
double, knot the end. Insert the needle into the back of the head and bring it out at the
lower right edge of the nose (your right). (Always go in and out between stitches, trying
not to catch any fabric. Use your pliers to help you pull the needle through if necessary.)
Tug gently to pull the knot inside the head. Insert the needle back into the face one rnd
below and to the right, and bring it out the back of the head; pull to indent slightly. Insert
the needle back into the head in the same place where it came out, and bring it out at the
opposite lower edge of the nose. Insert the needle back into the face one rnd below and
to the left, and bring it out the back of the head; pull to indent slightly. *Insert the needle
back into the same place where it came out, and bring out one stitch to the right of (your
right) the top edge of the nose, then back into the face one row up, and out the back of the
head. Pull to indent slightly.* Repeat * to * on the opposite top edge of the nose. Run
the needle and thread through the head 3 or 4 times to anchor and secure. Cut thread.
EYES:
Method I.
Make a French Knot: Using black yarn or thread (same size doll is made from) on a
sharp tapestry needle, insert needle into back of head and bring
out at 1st eye location. Insert needle back into same place and
bring out on back of head; *insert back into same place, and
bring out at eye location. Your thread is now anchored. Place
the needle flat on the surface of the face, touching the yarn
where it came out of the fabric. Holding the needle in place with
your left thumb, wrap the thread around the needle 3 times. Holding the knotted thread
firmly in place against the fabric with your left thumb, insert the needle a tiny bit to the
left of where it came out, and pull through to the back of the head, pulling the knot firmly
against the fabric.** Repeat * to ** for second eye.
Method II. Use glass eyes: Use pins (the kind with round glass heads are good for this)
to locate the eye positions (see illustration below; note that this photo does not depict
exactly how your elf head will look). Sew the eyes on with black nylon or other strong
thread: Begin by threading a sturdy needle, such as a milliner’s needle, with nylon or
other strong thread. Do not knot the end. If using wire-looped eyes,
crimp the wire loop with pliers (if it’s not pre-crimped) until you can just
get your needle through the loop; insert the needle through the loop (or
bead), and then remove the thread from the needle. (If you can’t get your
needle through the wire or bead, insert the thread through first, then
thread it onto the needle.) Thread both ends back onto the needle, and
then insert the needle into the first eye location. *Bring the needle
out the back or bottom of the head (depending on the angle you
want), pulling the thread until the wire loop touches the face. Insert
the crimped loop into the same place where the needle went in (use
a larger needle to make a tunnel for the loop if necessary), pushing
it flush against the face. Pull gently but firmly on the thread to
slightly imbed the eye into the face. Keeping the thread taut so as
not to allow the eye to loosen, insert the needle back into the exact place,** then push
through the head and out at the second eye location. Insert the threaded needle through
the eye wire or bead (once again, if your needle won’t go through the opening, remove
the thread from the needle, insert it through the eye wire or bead, then rethread the
needle). Insert the needle into the 2nd eye location, then repeat * to ** to attach the 2nd
eye, bringing the needle out finally at the bottom of the head. Tie off the ends with a
surgeon’s knot (see illustration at right), then thread the ends onto the needle and insert
back into the head in the same place where the knot is; pull though the head. Clip ends
close to the surface so that they disappear inside the head.
EYEBROWS:
Using hair color, embroider a straight stitch above each eye.
MOUTH:
Using the number of strands of red embroidery floss (or other thread or yarn) that looks
right for the size of your doll, use straight stitches to embroider the mouth as shown in the
photos. Make a shorter diagonal straight stitch at each edge of the mouth.
HAIR:
The hair is created by using small lengths of yarn and making fringe around the
stitches of the head as follows: Fold one piece of yarn in half. Insert the crochet hook
into a space below a sc, push up behind the sc, and bring out above the sc. With the
hook, grab the piece of yarn at the center fold and pull the loop back down behind the
sc, and out below the sc. YO both tails above, and pull them through the loop. Pull on
both tails to tighten the knot.
Since the elf will be wearing a hat, you may decide to create hair only on the part of the
head that won’t be underneath the hat.
1. Cut 13 2″ (5cm) pieces of yarn (burnt orange). Use these pieces to make a fringe
along row 6 from the center of the head, across the forehead.
2. Cut 8 2″ (4cm) pieces of yarn. Use to make a fringe on the back of the head along the
12th row from the center top.
3. Cut 9 2″ (5cm) pieces of yarn. Use to make a fringe on the back of the head along the
10th row from the center top.
4. Repeat row 3 along 8th row from center top.
5. Cut 13 2″ (5cm) pieces of yarn. Make a fringe on the back of the head along 6th row
the from the top of the, between the front fringe previously made.
6. Cut 20 2″ (5cm) pieces of yarn. The fringe will now continue in a spiral to the center
top of the head. Beginning where the last row of fringe left off, move up to the 4th row
from center top and continue making 20 fringe.
7. Cut 12 2″ (5cm) pieces of yarn. Move up to the 2nd row from center top and continue
making fringe to center top.
8. Cut 6 2″ pieces of yarn. Make 6 fringes around the center opening at top of head.
9. Cut 4 – 6 2″ pieces of yarn, and make 2 or 3 fringes on each side of the head, in front
of the ears, directly below the fringe that goes across the forehead.
10. Cut as many pieces of yarn as you need to fill in any blank spots.
• Trim hair to desired length. Trim around ears.
TROUSERS:
1. Leave a long tail at the beginning to use for sewing the back opening together. Using
green, ch 31, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (30 sc)
• The piece should fit loosely around the waist with the ends touching, at the bottom
edge of the shirt. If the chain is too short or too long, adjust your hook size until you
get the proper fit.
2 – 4. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (30 sc)
5. Sc in ea sc across; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, turn. (30 sc)
Create Trouser Leg Openings:
6. Sc in next 15 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 14 sc; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 6, turn; sk
14 sc, join with sl st in next sc from the WS; FO. (31 sc, ch-6)
Left Trouser Leg (Doll’s left):
7. RS row. (Trouser opening is in the back.) With right leg opening toward you, sk 3 ch
of ch-6 at crotch, join green with sc in BL of next ch, sc in BL of next 2 ch, sc in same sc
as where ch-6 begins, sc in next 15 sc around left leg (doll’s left), sc in same sc where ch6
is joined, sc in BL of next 3 ch; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, turn. (23 sc)
8 – 9. Sc in same pl as joining, and in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, turn. (23
sc)
10. Sc in same pl as joining and in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc; FO. (23 sc)
11. With RS facing, join light green with sc in same sc as joining on row 10, sc in ea sc
around, sc in ch-1 sp before joining; join with sl st in 1st sc; ch 1, do not turn. (24 sc)
12. Sc in same pl as joining, and in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, FO. (24 sc)
Right Trouser Leg:
7. RS row. With left leg opening toward you, sk 3 free lps of ch-6 at crotch, join green
with sc in next free lp of ch-6, sc in next 2 free lps, sc in same sc as where ch-6 begins, sc
in next 15 sc around right leg, sc in same sc where ch-6 is joined, sc in free lp of next 3
ch; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, turn. (23 sc)
8 – 12. Repeat rows 12 – 19 of left leg.
• With 3 strands of embroider floss, sew cross stitches around the last dark green row
toward the bottom edge of the pants. (Optional)
Straps:
1. Left Strap. With RS facing, sk 10 free lps from left edge (doll’s left) of back opening
of waist, join light green with sl st in next free lp, ch 1, turn. (2 sc)
2 – 18. Sc in next 2 sc; ch 1, turn. (2 sc)
19. Sc in next 2 sc; FO, leaving end long enough to sew strap to pants. (2 sc)
1. Right Strap. With RS of front facing you, sk 6 free lps after left strap, join light green
with sc in next free lp, sc in next free lp; ch 1, turn. (2 sc)
2. Repeat rows 2 – 19 of left strap.
• With front facing you, sk 4 free lps after edge of right strap (doll’s right), sew the
right strap to the top edge of the waist above the next 2 free lps. For the left strap, sk
4 free lps back from the edge of left strap, and sew to the top edge above the next 2
free lps.
• Sew a 3/8″ (10 or 11mm) red button to the pants at the front end of each strap (see
photo).
1. Front Cross-Bar. Leaving a 4-inch (10cm) tail at the beg, ch 7 with dark green, sc in
2nd ch from hook and in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (6 sc)
2. Sc in ea sc across; turn clockwise. (6 sc)
3. Sl st in ea sc across; FO, leaving a 4-inch (10cm) tail. (6 sl st)
• Using 3 strands of red embroidery floss, sew a row of cross stitches across the front
of the side bar. (Optional)
• Sew the side bar to the inside edge of each strap at the desired level.
• Put the pants on the doll. Use the long tail at the back waist edge to sew the pants
opening closed with a ladder stitch.
COLLAR
1. Ch 13 with red, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea sc across; FO. (12 sc)
• Place the piece around the doll’s neck and sew the back opening closed. Tack the
collar to the neck with a few stitches through the neck.
ELF HAT
1. Ch 30 with red, join with sl st in 1st ch, being careful not to twist the chain, ch 1, sc in
same pl as joining and in ea ch around; join with sl st in 1st sc; FO. (30 sc)
2. Working in BL, join dark green with sc in 1st sc, sc in ea sc around; do not join – place
rnd marker. (30 sc)
3. Sc in ea sc around. (30 sc)
4. (Sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog) 6 times. (24 sc)
5. Sc in ea sc around. (24 sc)
6. (Sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog) 4 times. (20 sc)
7. Sc in ea sc around. (20 sc)
8. (Sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog) 4 times. (16 sc)
9. Sc in ea sc around. (16 sc)
10. (Sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog) 4 times. (12 sc)
11. Sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
12. (Sc in next sc, sc2tog) 4 times. (8 sc)
13. Sc in ea sc around. (8 sc)
14. Sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc. (7 sc)
15. Sc in ea sc around. (7 sc)
16. Sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog. (6 sc)
17 – 23. Sc in ea sc around. (6 sc)
24. Sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc. (5 sc)
25. Sc in ea sc around; FO with sl st in next sc, leaving long end. (5 sc)
Edging:
1. With RS facing you, join red with sc in 1st free lp remaining from rnd 1, sc in ea free
lp around; join with sl st in 1st sc. (30 sc)
2. (Ch 3, sk next sc, sl st in next sc) 14 times around; join with sl st in same sc as 1st ch;
FO.
• Thread the long end onto a needle. Sew a gathering stitch in and out around the
outer lps of rnd 25; pull to gather and close. Leave the thread loose for now.
• Cut a 5-inch (12.5cm) piece of chenille stem. Fold both ends under to eliminate the
sharp ends, so that the stem will fit inside the narrow part of the hat from the tip to
about ½-inch (7mm) below the place where the narrow part begins. Insert the stem
all the way up into the tip of the hat. This will allow you to drape the narrow end of
the hat down toward the shoulder.
• Insert the needle into the tip of the hat and hide the loose end inside.
Pompom:
1. Begin with an adjustable ring and make 6 sc in ring; OR ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from
hook; do not join. (6 sc)
2. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 3 times. (9 sc)
3. Sc in ea sc around. (9 sc)
4. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 3 times; FO with sl st in next sc, leaving a long end. (6 sc)
• Put a little stuffing into the pompom to round it out. Sew a gathering stitch in and out
around the outer lps of rnd 4; pull to gather and close. Secure, but do not cut the end
yet.
• Thread the beginning tail onto the needle and pull it inside the pompom to hide.
• Use the ending tail to sew the pompom to the tip of the hat.
• If desired, tack the hat to the head as shown in photo. Make sure that the tips of his
elf ears are outside the hat.
Finishing Touches:
• Cut two 9-inch (23 cm) pieces of red yarn. Thread one onto a tapestry needle, and
beginning and ending at center front of shoe, weave in and out around the ankle just
below the cuff. Tie ends into a bow. Repeat on other shoe.
• Sew a ¼-inch (6mm) bell to the tip of each shoe. Bend tips of shoes inward toward
top of foot.
• Bend the narrow part of the hat downward toward one shoulder (see photo)