LIST OF MATERIALS. Doll is 6″ (15cm) tali.
Yara Punch Thread (Cameo or DeeLite): Flesh or desired skin color. dark green, billiard green, gold, black or med bro\vn. flaming orange. pumpkin, white – 2 spools of each color
Crochct Hook Size 7 (1.5mm)
Stuffin« Fiberfıll or stuffıng of choice
Joints • Tvvo Zı (1.2cm) joint disks and one 1″ (2.5cm) cotter pin for head joint • Upholstery thread and fi ve inch (12.5cm) doll needle for limbs
Eyes Two 5 mm eyes – green or black
Thread Sevving Thread to match buttons, Red Embroidery Floss for mouth.
Needles 5-inch doll needle, large blunt tapestry, 2.5-inch milliner’s, se\ving needle
Tools Hemostat and tvveezers for stuffıng, Small sharp scissors. mohair finger brush or stiff toothbrush for brushing up “hair”
Shading Tools • Micron Pigma 0.25mm – bro\vn • Watercolor pencils such as Prismacolor – pink (Or makeup blush -pink)
Embellishments • Fi ve 1/8” (4 mm) buttons – green • Tvvo 7/16″ (1 lmm) doll buckles – (Optional) (Dritz 4087 used for model) • 6″ (15cm) green ribbon (Optional) – 1/8″ (3mm vvide)
GAGE: Gage is not important as long as the same size thread and hook are used for all
the pattern pieces. However, since tension can vary in different circumstances, it is
suggested that when making two pieces that must be the same, such as arms and legs, that
you complete both in one sitting.
SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS:
ADJUSTABLE RING: Grasp the yarn between your thumb and forefinger, leaving a
tail at the beginning. Wrap the thread over and around the index finger clockwise,
crossing the thread at the top of the finger. Insert the hook underneath the front thread
that you just crossed, then catch the back thread with the hook, and pull a loop of the
back thread from underneath. Slip the loop off the finger, grasping the working end in
the left hand as if to begin crocheting. Chain 1, work number of stitches required into the
ring. Pull up a long loop, then, grasping the stitches just made with the right hand and
tail with left (or vice versa), pull to tighten ring. Insert hook into long loop and tighten
back against hook. Making sure tail is to the back, skip first chain worked and continue
working pattern.
DC2TOG: Decrease in double crochet: *YOH and insert hook into next stitch, YO and
pull up a loop, YOH and pull through 2 loops on hook; ** repeat * to ** once, YOH and
pull through remaining loops on hook.
REV-SC: Insert hook into the stitch immediately to the right, yoh and bring up a loop,
YO and pull through both loops on hook.
IMPORTANT NOTE ON STUFFING: The way that you stuff your doll can greatly
affect the quality of the finished product, especially if you are thread-jointing. You’ll be
amazed at the quantity of stuffing that each piece requires. The doll should be stuffed
firmly so that it won’t lose its shape, but not so firmly that the stitches are pulled apart to
the extent that the stuffing shows through in a distracting manner.
WEAVING/HIDING LOOSE THREAD ENDS: When making the doll, you can hide
the loose ends by pulling them to the inside of the piece with a tapestry needle. Pass the
needle through the piece 2 or 3 times to anchor the thread end (always go in and come out
between stitches, being careful not to catch any fabric), then pull the thread taut, and clip
close to the surface so that it disappears inside.
For other pattern pieces, it’s best to weave all loose ends as you finish each piece. If you
can’t hide the beginning tail by working over it for a few stitches, leave a tail that is long
enough to enable you to thread it onto a needle to weave it. When you fasten off, always
leave a tail that is long enough to thread onto a needle and weave.
TO WEAVE LOOSE ENDS: Thread the tail onto a needle. Working on the WS of the
piece and beginning directly beneath the place where you fastened off, insert the needle
underneath and through the upper loops of fabric for a length of 4 or 5 stitches, and then
turn and repeat through 2 or 3 of the same stitches in the opposite direction.
Abbreviations
alt – alternate
approx – approximately
beg – begin/beginning
bet — between
BL – back loop
ch – chain stitch
ch- – refers to a ch space previously made:
e.g., ch-1 space
cm – centimeter(s)
cont — continue
Dc – double crochet (UK treble cr)
Dc2tog – double crochet 2 stitches together
(decrease)
Dec – decreases(s)
ea – each
FL – front loop(s)
FO – fasten off
hdc – half double crochet
hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 stitches
together
inc – increase
lp(s) – loops
mm – millimeter(s)
oz – ounce(s)
pl – place
prev – previous
rem – remaining
rep – repeat(s)
rnd(s) – round(s)
RS – right side
sc – single crochet (same as UK dc)
sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together
sk – skip
Sl st – slip stitch (same as UK sc)
Sp(s) – space(s)
St – stitch
tog — together
WS — wrong side
Yd(s) – yard(s)
YO – yarn over
Yoh – yarn over hook
NOTE: USE 2 STRANDS OF PUNCH THREAD HELD TOGETHER
THROUGHOUT UNLESS OTHERWISE INSTRUCTED.
HEAD:
Always keep hands scrupulously clean when doing any work with the head.
1. Begin with an adjustable ring, make 6 sc in ring OR ch 2 with skin color, 6 sc in 2nd ch
from hook; do not join. Use a piece of contrasting thread as a rnd marker.
2. 2 sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 6 times. (18 sc)
4. Sc in ea sc around. (18 sc)
5. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 9 times. (27 sc)
6. Sc in ea sc around. (27 sc)
7. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 9 times. (36 sc)
8 – 12. Sc in ea sc around. (36 sc)
13. Sc in next 18 sc, place a contrasting marker, which you will leave in to help you
locate the center of the face, sc in next 18 sc. (36 sc)
14. Sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 5 sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2
sc in ea of next 5 sc, sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 5 sc. (42 sc)
15. Sc in ea sc around. (42 sc)
16. Sc2tog, sc in next 18 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 18 sc, sc2tog. (39 sc)
17. Sc in next 8 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 5 times, sc2tog, sc in next 9 sc. (33 sc)
18. Sc in ea sc around. (33 sc)
19. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 4 times, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc,
(sc2tog, sc in next sc) 4 times. (25 sc)
• Begin stuffing head (see note on stuffing in Special Instructions above).
20. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 3 times, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next sc) 3 times,
sc2tog. (16 sc)
• Continue stuffing. Make sure the cheeks are filled out nicely.
21. Sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog 5 times, sc in next 4 sc. (12 sc)
• Finish stuffing head. Check shaping from all angles.
• Push one of the disks onto the cotter pin, then place the disk inside the bottom head
opening, with its pin protruding downward.
22. Sc2tog 6 times; FO with sl st in next sc. (6 sc)
• Hide loose end using method described in “Special Instructions” above.
You may alternatively sew the head and limbs to the body, in which case you will
omit the jointing steps.
FACIAL FEATURES
Tip: When you are making a piece that will be sewn to the doll, leave a tail at the
beginning, so that after you have sewn the piece in place, you’ll be able to thread the tail
onto a needle and pull it inside the doll to hide it.
NOSE:
1. With same thread as head, begin with an adjustable ring, make 6 sc in ring OR ch 2
with skin color, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook; do not join. (6 sc)
2. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 3 times. (9 sc)
• Do not turn right side out. The WS will be the outside of the nose.
3. Sc in ea sc around; FO, leaving long end. (9 sc)
• Stuff the nose lightly.
• Mark the center of the face where the thread marker is placed, then remove the
thread. Using the long end, sew the nose to the face directly over the center mark. Make
sure the nose remains centered as you sew.
ATTACH EYES: Use pins (the kind with round glass heads are good for this) to locate
the eye positions (see illustration on page 7). Sew the eyes on with black nylon or other
strong thread: Begin by threading a sturdy needle, such as a milliner’s needle, with nylon
or other strong thread. Do not knot the end. If using wire-looped eyes, crimp the wire loop with pliers (if it’s not pre-crimped) until you can just get your needle through the
loop; insert the needle through the loop (or bead), and then remove the thread from the
needle. (If you can’t get your needle through the wire or bead, insert the
thread through first, then thread it onto the needle.) Thread both ends
back onto the needle, and then insert the needle into the first eye location.
*Bring the needle out the back or bottom of the head (depending on the
angle you want), pulling the thread until the wire loop touches the face.
Insert the crimped loop into the same place where the needle went in (use
a larger needle to make a tunnel for the loop if necessary), pushing it
flush against the face. Pull gently but firmly on the thread to slightly imbed the eye into
the face. Keeping the thread taut so as not to allow the eye to
loosen, insert the needle back into the exact place,** then push
through the head and out at the second eye location. Insert the
threaded needle through the eye wire or bead (once again, if your
needle won’t go through the opening, remove the thread from the
needle, insert it through the eye wire or bead, then rethread the
needle). Insert the needle into the 2nd eye location, then repeat * to
** to attach the 2nd eye, bringing the needle out finally at the bottom of the head. Tie off
the ends with a surgeon’s knot (see illustration at right), then thread the ends onto the
needle and insert back into the head in the same place where the knot is; pull though the
head. Clip ends close to the surface so that they disappear inside the head.
EYEBROWS (MAKE 2):
1. Using two strands hair color (flaming orange or pumpkin) ch 6, sl st in 2nd ch from
hook, sc in next 3 sc, sl st in last ch; FO, leaving long end for sewing. (5 sc)
• WS is the front. The “furring” is optional; gently brush the eyebrows until they are
slightly fuzzy, always brushing in one direction, away from what will be the inside edge.
Trim any unruly ends, and then pin the brows above the eyes in the desired location.
Carefully sew them to the face using the long tail.
MOUTH:
Using 6 strands of red embroidery floss, embroider a horizontal straight stitch below the
nose, letting the thread arc downward in the center so that the mouth will be in the shape
of a smile. Catch the center of the smile with a tiny stitch to hold it in place. Make a
shorter straight stitch directly below and touching the mouth, and another directly above
and touching the mouth.
DEFINE FEATURES WITH NEEDLE SCULPTING (OPTIONAL):
*Thread a long needle with upholstery thread or crochet thread in a color that is similar to
the face; do not double, knot the end. Insert the needle into the bottom of the head and
bring it out just above the first corner of the mouth. (Always go in and out between
stitches, trying not to catch any fabric. Use your pliers to help you pull the needle
through if necessary.) Tug gently to pull the knot inside the head. Insert the needle back
into the face close to the place where the needle came out, and bring it out the back of the
head; pull to indent the corner of the mouth slightly. Insert the needle back into the head
in the same place where it came out,* and bring it out at the opposite corner of the mouth.
Repeat * to *, coming back out the back of the head once more. Insert the needle back
into the same place where it came out, and out at the lower outside corner of the first eye,
then back into the face a very short distance from the exit point, and out the back of the
head. Pull to indent slightly. **Go back into the head again, and out at the inner edge of
the eye, then back into the face a short distance from the exit point and out the back of the
head.** Repeat ** to ** for the second eye.
• Us a pink pencil or makeup blush to shade the cheeks, and to lightly shade the end of
the nose.
EYELIDS (optional):
1. Leaving a long tail at the beginning, ch 5 with skin color, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc
in next 2 sc, sl st in last sc; FO, leaving long end. (2 sl st, 2 sc)
• Sew eyelid over top edge of eye (see photos): Thread the 1st tail onto a needle and,
with RS of eyelid facing out, insert the needle into the face close to the edge of an eye,
pull out back of head. Insert needle back into head in same pl where it came out,
push through head, and bring out at opposite edge of eye, catching edge of eyelid as
you come out. Insert needle back into face and out back of head. Insert needle back
into same place where it came out, and bring out behind the 1st sl st of the eyelid, then
through the sl st from behind. Insert needle into next sc of eyelid, into face, and out
back of head. Insert back into same pl where it came out, and push through head,
coming out above the eye and through the next sc. Insert back into next sl st into
face, and bring out back of head again. Secure and FO. Thread 2nd tail onto needle,
insert into face directly beside edge of eyelid, and through to back of head; secure
and FO. Repeat the procedure for the other eyelid.
• With the brown marker, shade the lower edge of the eyelid.
HAIR:
1. Ch 21 with hair color, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 19 sc; ch 1, turn. (20 sc)
2 – 3. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (20 sc)
4. Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 3 sc,
sc2tog, FO, leaving long end for sewing to head. (14 sc)
• Row 4 is the right side. Brush up and trim hair. Do not sew in place yet. Set aside.
BEARD:
TOP PIECE:
1. Ch 31 with hair color, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 29 ch; FO with sl st in same
pl as last sc. (30 sc)
• Row 1 is the WS.
2. With RS facing, sk 5 sc, rejoin hair color with sl st in next sc, sc in next sc, hdc in next
7 sc, 2 hdc in ea of next 2 sc, hdc in next 7 sc, sc in next sc, sl st in next sc, FO. (2 sl st, 2
sc, 18 hdc)
3. With WS facing, rejoin hair color with sl st in 1st sl st on previous row, sc in same pl,
2 hdc in next sc, sl st in next sc , (3 hdc in next sc, sl st in next sc) 8 times, 2 hdc in next
sc, (sc, sl st) in last sl st; FO. (28 hdc, 2 sc, 10 sl st)
BOTTOM PIECE:
1. Ch 21 with hair color, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 19 ch; ch 1, turn. (20 sc)
2. Sl st in next sc, sc in next sc, hdc in next 7 sc, 2 hdc in ea of next 2 sc, hdc in next 7
sc, sc in next sc, sl st in next sc, ch 1, turn. (2 sl st, 2 sc, 18 hdc)
3. Sl st in 1st sl st, sc in same pl, 2 hdc in next sc, sl st in next sc , (3 hdc in next sc, sl st
in next sc) 8 times, 2 hdc in next sc, (sc, sl st) in last sl st; FO. (28 hdc, 2 sc, 10 sl st)
• Sew the bottom edges of the two pieces together from the lower edge of one sideburn
to the lower edge of the other, matching up stitches. When stitching the top piece, insert
the needle through the outer loops only of the stitches on row 3.
• The top edge of the bottom piece should fall below the top edge of the top piece. Tack
in place if desired.
• Brush up and trim beard. Set aside.
LEFT EAR:
1. Ch 2 with skin color, 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook; ch 1, turn. (8 sc)
2. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, ch 2, sl st in 2nd ch from hook (picot made), hdc in
same pl as last sc, 2 sc in sc, sc in next sc, sl st in same pl; FO, leaving long end for
sewing. (9 sc, hdc, picot, sl st)
RIGHT EAR:
1. Ch 2 with skin color, 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook; turn. (8 sc)
2. Sl st in 1st sc, 2 sc in next sc, hdc in next sc, ch 2, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in
same pl as last hdc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc; FO, leaving long end for sewing. (10
sc, sl st)
ATTACH BEARD, HAIR, AND EARS:
1. Pin hair to head across back of head, placing bottom edge of each end just behind the
point of an ear, and curving downward like a smile (see photos below).
2. Pin the center of the top edge of the beard to the center of the chin.
3. Pin the end of each sideburn to the head above the ear, with the ends touching the
edge of the hair on both sides.
4. Pull the beard down below the cheeks on each side and pin to face.
5. Pin the ears in place, and move them around until you are satisfied with the
placement; adjust beard and hair placement as necessary.
6. Sew beard in place all around the top edge, and around sideburns.
7. Sew hair in place.
8. Sew ears to head. Keep your stitching between rows 1 and 2, so that the edges of the
ears will come away from the head like real ears do.
9. Use a pink pencil or makeup to shade inside the ears.
BODY:
1. Ch 2 with white, 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook; do not join, pl rnd marker. (8 sc)
2. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 4 times. (12 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 6 times. (18 sc)
4. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 6 times. (24 sc)
5. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 8 times. (32 sc)
6 – 8. Sc in ea sc around. (32 sc)
9. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) 8 times. (40 sc)
Neck Joint: At this point push the cotter pin protruding from the bottom of the head into
the top of the center of round 1 of the body. Reach inside the body to place a
disk onto the cotter pin and push flush toward head, and then curl each leg
of cotter pin outward and down toward disk, until the curled leg is resting on
the disk (see illustration at right).
10. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc) 8 times. (48)
11. Sc in next 24 sc, place a contrasting marker to mark center front, sc in next 24 sc,
move rnd marker to begin next rnd here (does not change stitch count). (48 sc)
12. Sc in next 15 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 4 times, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, (sc in
next sc, 2 sc in next sc) 4 times, sc in next 15 sc. (58 sc)
13 – 16. Sc in ea sc around. (58 sc)
17. Sc in next sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here, sc in next 15 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next
sc) twice, sc2tog, sc in next 12 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next sc) twice, sc2tog, sc in next 15 sc.
(52 sc)
18. Sc in ea sc around. (50 sc)
19. Sc in next 15 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 5 times, sc2tog, sc in next 15 sc. (46 sc)
20. Sc in ea sc around. (46 sc)
21. Sc in next sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here, sc in next 10 sc, sc2tog 13 times, sc
in next 10 sc. (33 sc)
22. Sc in ea sc around. (33 sc)
23. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 11 times. (22 sc)
24. Sc2tog, sc in ea rem sc around. (21 sc)
• Begin stuffing.
25. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 7 times. (14 sc)
• Continue stuffing.
26. Sc2tog 7 times; FO with sl st in next sc, leaving long end for sewing. (7 sc). (7 sc)
• Finish stuffing the body.
• Thread a needle with the long end; run a gathering stitch in and out of the outer
loops of rnd 26. Pull gently after each stitch to gather and close. Secure end and cut
thread. Pull end inside body to hide.
LEFT ARM:
1. Ch 7 with skin color, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 5 ch, moving to opposite side
of chain, sc in next 6 free lps; do not join, place rnd marker. (12 sc)
2. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 6 times. (18 sc)
3. Sc in ea sc around. (18 sc)
4. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc) twice. (20 sc)
5 – 7. Sc in ea sc around. (20 sc)
8. Sc2tog, sc in next sc, ch 3, sk 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 8 sc. (16 sc, 3 ch)
9. Sc2tog, sc in BL of next 3 ch, sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 7 sc. (17 sc)
10. Sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 7 sc; FO with sl st in next sc. (15 sc)
THUMB
1. With wrist opening toward you, join skin color with sc in 1st free lp of ch-3 on rnd
8, sc in next 2 free lps, sc in side of sc bet top and bottom of thumb opening, continue
around and sc in next 2 sc, sc in side of sc bet top and bottom of thumb opening, do
not join. (7 sc)
2. Sc in ea sc around. (7 sc)
3. Sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc, FO with sl st in next sc leaving long tail for closing end of
thumb. (5 sc, sl st)
• Sew gathering stitches around rnd 3; pull to close the thumb end; FO, hide end by
pulling to inside of thumb. Stuff hand, which should be about ¼” (6mm) thick.
11. Join white with sc in next sc on hand, sc in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1,
do not turn. (15 sc)
12. Working in BL, sc in same pl as joining and in next 14 sc, sk the joining sl st; do not
join, place rnd marker. (15 sc)
• Add more stuffing after every few rows.
13 – 17. Sc in ea sc around. (15 sc)
18. Sc in next 12 sc, sl st loosely in next 3 st. (12 sc, 3 sl st)
19. Sl st in next 3 sc, sc in next 9 sc, sl st in next 3 sl st. (6 sl st, 9 sc)
20. Sl st in next 3 st, sc in next 12 st. (3 sl st, 12 sc)
21 – 28. Sc in ea st around. (15 sc)
29. Sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc; FO, leaving long end for closing. (13
sc)
• Finish stuffing. Arm must be stuffed firmly in order to make a good
thread joint. As you stuff, bend the forearm slightly upward from the
elbow, where the slip stitches are.
• Sew the arm seam using a ladder stitch (see illustration at right).
RIGHT ARM:
1 – 7. Repeat 1 – 7 of left arm.
8. Sc in next 17 sc, ch 3, sk next 3 sc. (17 sc, ch-3)
9. Sc2tog, sc in next 7 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, sc in BL of next 3 ch. (17 sc)
10. Pl rnd marker, sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 7 sc, sc2tog; FO with sl st in next sc.
(15 sc)
MAKE THUMB USING INSTRUCTIONS FOR LEFT HAND.
11 – 17. Repeat 11 – 17 of left arm.
18. Sc in next 12 sc, sl st loosely in next 3 sc. (12 sc, 3 sl st)
19. Sl st loosely in next 3 sc, sc in next 9 sc, sl st loosely in next 3 st. (6 sl st, 9 sc)
20. Sl st loosely in next 3 st, sc in next 12 st. (3 sl st, 12 sc)
21 – 29. Repeat 21 – 28 of left arm.
• Finish same as left arm.
ATTACH ARMS:
First use long pins inserted through the tops of the arms to help you locate the desired
position; mark the location for each arm. Thread doll needle with a 30-inch (76cm) length
of upholstery or other strong thread, doubled but not knotted. Insert needle into the 1st
shoulder and push through to opposite side, leaving a 3-inch (8 cm) tail protruding from
body. Insert needle back into body one row up, push back through body, and bring out on
opposite side of body one row above beginning tail. Insert needle back into body in same
place as tail, and bring out on opposite side at the lower point of the joint. Pull thread to
indent socket on each side.
*Insert needle into inner side of arm and through to outer side, and then turn and insert
the needle back into the arm in the same place where it came out, push it back through
the arm, dipping down inside the arm to grab some stuffing, and bring it out the same
place on the inside of the arm. Insert the needle back into the body in the lower joint
stitch, through the body, and out the opposite side in the same place in the lower joint
stitch. Pull thread to force the arm against the body. ** Repeat * to ** for 2nd arm. If
one of the arms feels loose, you can repeat the process * to ** for one or both arms,
ending with needle coming out of body just behind or in front of the top of the arm. Cut
thread, leaving a 3-inch (8 cm) tail. Tie off the beginning and ending tails with a
surgeon’s knot, then thread the ends on a needle and run through the body to hide the
ends.
LEGS (MAKE 2):
SHOE SOLE:
1. Ch 4 with shoe color (black or brown), sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch; ch 1,
turn. (3 sc)
2. Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc; ch 1, turn. (4 sc)
3. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc; ch 1, turn. (6 sc)
4 – 7. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (6 sc)
8. Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog; ch 1, turn. (4 sc)
9 – 11. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (4 sc)
12. Sc in next sc, sc2tog, sc in next sc; ch 1, turn. (3 sc)
SIDES:
13. Sl st in next 2 sc (does not count in stitch total for this rnd), ch 1, sc in same pl as last
sl st, sc in next sc, turn the corner, and working in the row ends along the side edge, sk
end of row 13 and sc in next 12 row ends, turn the corner and sc in next 3 free lps across
toe edge, turn the corner and sk end of row just made, sc in next 12 row ends, turn the
corner and sc in the next sl st at heel; joint with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn. (30 sc)
14 – 15. Be careful not to work in the joining sl st. Sc in same pl as joining, and in ea sc
around; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn. (30 sc)
16. Sc in same pl as joining and in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc; FO. (30 sc)
TOP OF SHOE:
1. Working in BL around the tip of the shoe with RS facing, skip joining st on row 16 at
center back, sk next 13 sc, join shoe color with sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc; ch 1, turn. (3
sc)
2. Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc; ch 1, turn. (4 sc)
3. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc; ch 1, turn. (6 sc)
4 – 6. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (6 sc)
7. Sc in ea sc across; FO, leaving long end. (6 sc)
• Thread the long end onto a needle, and sew the 7 row ends on each side edge of the
top of the shoe to the 7 sc along the top edge of each side of the shoe, matching row
ends to sc’s, and sewing through the inner lps only of the sc’s.
8. Working in BL, join shoe color with sc in 1st sc at center back of heel, sc in next 6 sc,
sc2tog over next sc and 1st sc of shoe top, sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog over next sc on top and
next sc on next side, sc in next 6 sc; join with sl st in 1st sc; FO. (19 sc)
• Stuff Shoes.
TO CHANGE COLORS: At end of round insert hook into 1st sc as if to join with sl st,
instead of bringing through a loop of 1st color, bring through a loop of 2nd color. Do not
fasten off either color until stocking is finished, let the color not in use trail as you work
the next 3 rounds.
STOCKING:
9. Working this row in BL, join orange with sc in same pl as joining prev row at center
back, sc in ea remaining sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn. (19 sc)
10. Sc in same pl as joining and in next 5 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc, sc 2tog, sc in next 6
sc; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn. (17 sc)
11. Sc in same pl as joining and in next 4 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5
sc; join with sl st in 1st sc, changing to gold; ch 1, do not turn. (15 sc)
• Continue stuffing leg after every few rows worked.
12 – 13. With gold, sc in same pl as joining and in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc,
ch 1, do not turn. (15 sc)
14. With gold, sc in same pl as joining and in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st
sc,
changing to orange; ch 1, do not turn. (15 sc)
15. With orange, 2 sc in same pl as joining, sc in next 13 sc, 2 sc in last sc; join with sl st
in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn. (17 sc)
16. With orange, sc in same pl as joining and in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch
1, do not turn. (17 sc)
17. With orange, sc in same pl as joining and in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc,
changing to gold; ch 1, do not turn. (17 sc)
18 – 19. With gold, sc in same pl as joining and in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch
1, do not turn. (17 sc)
20. With gold, sc2tog, sc in next 13 sc, sc2tog; join with sl st in 1st sc, changing to
orange; ch 1, do not turn. (15 sc)
21 – 22. With orange, sc in same pl as joining and in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc,
ch 1, do not turn. (15 sc)
23. With orange, sc in same pl as joining and in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc; FO
orange and yellow. (15 sc)
24. Working in BL, join skin color with sc in same sc as joining at center back of leg, sc
in next 14 sc; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn. (15 sc)
• You will now resume working in rounds.
25. Sc in same pl as joining and in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc; do not join,
pl rnd marker. (16 sc)
26. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7) twice. (18 sc)
27 – 30. Sc in ea sc around. (18 sc)
31. Sc in next 3 sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here, (sc in next 7 sc, sc2tog) twice.
(16 sc)
32. Sc in next 7 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5, sc2tog; FO, leaving long end for closing top of
leg. (14 sc)
• Finish stuffing leg firmly. The leg should not be round, but oval shaped, with the
wider part of the oval being from front to back. The top of the leg will be sewn
together with the seam running front to back. Close the leg opening using ladder
stitch or oversew stitch.
SHOE FLAP (Optional):
1. Working in the 5 free lps of the last row of shoe color across the top of the foot, with
shoe pointed toward you, join with sc in 1st free lp, sc in next 4 free lps; ch 1, turn. (5 sc)
2. Sc in ea sc across; FO. (5 sc)
• Repeat on the other shoe.
• Hide loose ends by weaving them along the edge of the flap, and then pulling inside
shoe.
• Attach a purchased or crocheted buckle (see instructions below) to the top of each
shoe.
BUCKLE (Make 2):
The crocheted buckle is optional. You may use purchased doll buckles.
Ch 11 with gold, or gray, join with sl st to form a ring, being careful not to twist the
chain; ch 1, 2 sl st in same ch as joining, (sl st in next 2 ch, 2 sl st in next ch) 3 times, sl st
in next 2 ch; join with sl st in 1st st, FO, leaving long end. Sew a buckle to the top of each
shoe.
ATTACH LEGS:
First use long pins inserted through the tops of the legs to help you locate the desired
position; mark the location for each leg. Thread doll needle with a 30-inch (76cm) length
of upholstery or other strong thread, doubled but not knotted. Insert needle into the 1st
hip and push through to opposite side, leaving a 3-inch (8 cm) tail protruding from body.
Insert needle back into body one row down, push back through body, and bring out on
opposite side of body one row below beginning tail. Insert needle back into body in same
place as tail, and bring out on opposite side at the upper point of the joint. Pull thread on
each side to indent socket.
*Insert needle into inner side of leg and through to outer side, and then turn and insert the
needle back into the leg in the same place where it came out, push it back through the leg,
dipping down inside the leg to grab some stuffing, and bring it out the same place on the
inside of the leg. Insert the needle back into the body in the upper joint stitch, through
the body, and out the opposite side in the same place in the upper joint stitch. Pull thread
to force leg against body. ** Repeat * to ** for 2nd leg. If one of the legs feels loose,
you can repeat the process * to ** for one or both legs, ending with needle coming out of
body just behind or in front of the top of the leg. Cut thread, leaving a 3-inch (8 cm) tail.
Tie off the beginning and ending tails with a surgeon’s knot, then thread the ends on a
needle and run through the body to hide the ends.
• Pull out or clip the thread that marks the center front of body.
FAUX VEST FRONT (Make 2)
1. Leaving a long tail at the beginning, ch 14 with gold, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in
next 12 ch; ch 1, turn. (13 sc)
2. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (13 sc)
3. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, sl st in next sc; turn piece clockwise. (9 sc, sl st)
4. Sk sl st, sc in next 9 sc; ch 1, turn. (9 sc)
5. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, sl st in next sc; turn piece clockwise. (9 sc, sl st)
6. Sk sl st, sc in next 8 sc, sl st in next sc; turn piece clockwise. (8 sc, sl st)
7. Sk sl st, sc in next 6 sc, sl st in next sc; turn piece clockwise. (6 sc, sl st)
8. Sk sl st, sc in next 6 sc; turn piece clockwise. (6 sc)
9. Sk 1st sc, sc in next 5 sc; FO, leaving long end. (5 sc)
• Row 9 is the inside edge (center of vest front). Place the two pieces together with
inside edges meeting. Thread one of the long tails onto a tapestry needle. Holding
both pieces in left hand, stitch together by going in under the loops of 1st sc on right
side (your right), coming out from underneath the loops of 1st sc on left side, then turn
and go back in underneath the loops of the next sc down, on the left side, then back
out from underneath the corresponding sc on the right side. (See ladder stitch
illustration on page 10.) Repeat for ea corresponding pair of sc’s down the center
front.
TRIM EDGES OF VEST:
1. With RS facing and working loosely across top edge of vest, join yellow with sl st in
1st sc at top edge, sl st in next 3 sc, sl st in next 7 row ends, sl st in center seam, sl st in
next 7row ends, sl st in next 4 sc; FO. (24 sl st)
2. With RS facing and working loosely in row ends across bottom edge of vest, join
yellow with sl st in 1st row end, ch 1, sc in same pl, sc in next 3 row ends, (sc, ch 1, sc) in
next row end, sc in next 4 row ends, sl st in center seam, sc in next 4 row ends, (sc, ch 1,
sc) in next row end, sc in next 4 row ends; FO. (20 sc, sl st, 2 ch-1 lps)
• Sew 3 miniature buttons down the center front of vest.
• Tack vest to body at both shoulders.
TROUSERS:
1. Leave a long tail at the beginning to use for sewing the front opening together. Using
dark green, ch 51, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (50 sc)
• The piece should fit around the waist with the ends touching in the front, at the 14th
rnd from the center bottom of the body. If it’s too short or too long, adjust your hook
size until you get the proper fit.
2 – 3. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (50 sc)
4. (Sc in next sc, sc2tog) 3 times, sc in next 32 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next sc) 3 times; ch 1,
turn. (44 sc)
5 – 6. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (44 sc)
7 – 9. Sc in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, turn. (44 sc)
CREATE TROUSER LEG OPENINGS:
10. Sc in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 11, sk 21 sc, join with sl st in next sc;
FO. (44 sc, ch-11)
• There should be 21 sc on either side of the chain-11.
LEFT TROUSER LEG (Doll’s left):
11. WS row. (Trouser opening is in the front.) With left leg opening toward you, sk 5 ch
of ch-11 at crotch, join dark green with sc in FL of next ch, sc in FL of next 5 ch, sc in
same sc as where ch-11 begins, sc in next 21 sc around left leg (doll’s left), sc in same sc
where ch-11 is joined, sc in FL of next 5 ch; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, turn. (34 sc)
12. Sc in next sc and in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, turn. (34 sc)
13. Sc in next sc, (sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc) 4 times, sc in last sc; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch
1, turn. (30 sc)
14 – 15. Sc in next sc and in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, turn. (30 sc)
16. (Sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc) 5 times; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, turn. (25 sc)
17. Sc in next sc and in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, turn. (25 sc)
18. Working in BL, sc in same sc as joining and in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc,
ch 1, do not turn. (25 sc)
19. Working in both lps, sc in same sc as joining and in ea sc around; join with sl st in
1st sc, FO. (25 sc)
RIGHT TROUSER LEG:
11. WS row. With right leg opening toward you, sk 5 free lps of ch-11 at crotch, join
dark green with sc in next free lp, sc in next 5 free lps, sc in same sc as where ch-11
begins, sc in next 21 sc around right leg, sc in same sc where ch-11 is joined, sc in free lp
of next 5 ch; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, turn. (34 sc)
12 – 19. Repeat rows 12 – 19 of left leg.
• Sew a 1/8″ (4mm) button to the outer edge of each leg “cuff.”
• Slip the trousers onto the doll, working them over the shoes.
• Use the long tail at the front waist to sew the front opening closed with a ladder stitch
(see illustration on page 10.)
• Pull the trousers up until the top edge at center front meets the bottom edge of the
vest at center front. Fold the vest up out of the way, and tack the trousers to the doll
around the top edge of the waist.
• Pull the vest back down and tack in place at bottom center and bottom side edges of
vest, with the center meeting the top edge of the trousers, and the side edges over the
1st row at top edge of the trousers.
JABOT (Optional):
If you opt not to make the jabot, then tie a green ribbon into a bow at the doll’s throat
to serve as a bow tie (see front cover photo).
1. Ch 25 with 1 strand of white, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 23 ch; ch 1, turn.
(24 sc)
• Row 1 is RS.
2. Sc in ea sc across; FO. (24 sc)
3. With RS facing, sk 10 sc, join 1 strand of white with sl st in next sc, ch 3, 2 dc in same
pl, 3 dc in ea of next 3 sc; ch 3, turn. (12 dc)
4. Dc in next dc, (2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc) across, 2 dc in last dc; ch 3, turn. (18
dc)
5. Dc in next dc and in ea dc across; ch 3, turn. (18 dc)
6. Dc in same pl as turning, (dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc) across, dc in last dc; FO,
leaving long end. (27 dc)
7. With RS facing and working in BL, join dark green with sl st in 1st dc, (ch 1, sl st in
next dc) across, ending with ch 1, join; FO. (27 ch-1 sp)
• Thread the long end remaining from rnd 6 onto a needle; working between rows 5
and 6, sew a gathering stitch across from one edge to the other, pull to gather to a
width of about 5/8″ (15 mm); secure thread. Sew another row of gathering stitches
between rows 4 and 5, and a third between rows 3 and 4, pulling to gather and then
securing thread after each row.
• Place the band around the neck, with the jabot centered in the front. Neatly sew the
short ends of the band together at the back of the neck.
JACKET:
MC (Main Color): Dark Green or Billiard Green
CC (Contrasting Color): Black for Dark Green jacket, or Dark Green for Billiard
Green jacket
BODY OF JACKET (Make 2 pieces):
1. Ch 15 with MC, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea ch across; ch 1, turn. (14 sc)
2. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (14 sc)
3. Sc in next 13 sc, 2 sc in next sc; ch 1, turn. (15 sc)
4. 2 sc in next sc, sc in ea remaining sc; ch 1, turn. (16 sc)
5. Sc in ea sc across; ch 5, turn. (16 sc, ch-5)
6. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 3 ch, sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (20 sc)
7. Shaping row.
a. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc; turn piece clockwise. (11 sc)
b. Sc in next 11 sc; ch 1, turn. (11 sc)
c. Sc in next 11 sc (end of shaping), sc in next 10 sc; ch 1, turn. (21 sc showing)
8. Sc in next 20 sc, 2 sc in next sc; ch 1, turn. (22 sc)
9 – 10. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (22 sc)
ARM HOLE SHAPING:
11. Sc in next 12 sc; ch 1, turn.
12. Sc in next 11 sc, 2 sc in next sc; ch 1, turn. (13 sc)
13. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (13 sc)
14. Sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc in next sc; ch 1, turn. (14 sc)
15 – 16. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (14 sc)
BACK:
17. Sc in next 14 sc, ch 13; turn. (14 sc, ch-13)
18. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 11 ch, sc in next 14 sc; ch 1, turn. (26 sc)
19 – 22. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (26 sc)
23. Sc in next 24 sc; ch 1, turn. (24 sc)
24 – 26. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (24 sc)
27. Sc in ea sc across; FO. (24 sc)
JOIN:
Because we don’t want to add unnecessary bulk to the jacket, we need to sew the seams
with a ladder stitch. To refresh your memory: Place the two pieces to be joined side by
side with edges touching. Insert a threaded needle underneath both loops of the 1st sc on
the first piece, then underneath both loops of the corresponding sc on the second piece.
Turn and reverse the process, going underneath the loops of the second sc on the second
piece, then underneath the loops of the next sc of the first piece. Pull on the thread gently
to bring the pieces together. (See illustration on page 10.) There will be times when you
are working in row ends instead of single crochet stitches. Use the same procedure,
matching up row ends as you sew back and forth.
• Join at center back: Thread a tapestry needle with the same thread used to make the
jacket. Place the two pieces of the jacket with back edges together. Beginning at the
top edge, sew the two pieces together using a ladder stitch in the top loops only of
each corresponding sc. Do not work the last 5 stitches at the bottom. Push the
needle through and turn the piece over. Repeat the ladder stitching on this side,
using the free lps of each sc.
• Join at shoulders: Thread a tapestry needle with the same thread used to make the
jacket. Place the edges of the front and back shoulders together, and join using a
ladder stitch.
NECK TRIM:
1. With RS facing, join CC with sl st in 1st row end at top right (doll’s right) of neck on
jacket front, sc in next 4 row ends, (sc2tog over next row end and next sc), sc in next 4 sc
up right shoulder, sc in shoulder seam, sc in next sc, (sc2tog over next sc on shoulder and
next row end on back), sc in next 3 row ends on back, sc2tog, sc in back seam, sc2tog, sc
in next 3 row ends on back, (sc2tog over next row end and next sc on left shoulder), sc in
next sc, sc in shoulder seam, sc in next 3 free lps down front, (sc2tog over next free lp
and next row end on front), sc in next 4 row ends on front, sl st at top left edge; FO. (2 sl
st, 32 sc)
RIGHT SLEEVE:
1. Ch 3 with MC; with RS facing, join to jacket with sc in 1st free lp at bottom edge of
arm hole, sc in next 11 free lps up the back edge of arm hole, sk shoulder seam, sc in ea
of next 10 sc down the front edge of arm hole; ch 4, turn. (22 sc, ch-3, ch-4)
2. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 2 ch, sc in next 22 sc, sc in next 3 ch; ch 1, turn.
(28 sc)
3. Sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 18 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc; ch 1, turn. (26 sc)
4 – 5. Sc in ea sc around; ch 1, turn. (26 sc)
6. Sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 18 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc; ch 1, turn. (24 sc)
7. Sc in ea sc around; ch 1, turn. (24 sc)
8. Sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 16 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc; ch 1, turn. (22 sc)
9 – 14. Sc in ea sc around; ch 1, turn. (22 sc)
15. Sc in ea sc around; FO, leaving long end for sewing sleeve seam. (22 sc)
• Sew the sleeve seam using ladder stitch. Make sure the row ends are matched up as
you sew.
• Sew the underarm seam using ladder stitch, matching up the 6 stitches on the sleeve
underarm to the 6 rows of the underarm opening on the jacket.
LEFT SLEEVE:
1. Ch 3 with CC; with RS facing, join with sc in 1st sc at bottom edge of arm hole, sc in
next 10 sc up the front edge of arm hole, sk shoulder seam, sc in ea of next 12 free lps
down the back edge of arm hole; ch 4, turn. (22 sc, ch-3, ch-4)
2 – 15. Work same as right arm.
• Finish same as right arm.
JACKET TRIM:
1. With RS facing, join CC with sc in 1st row end after center back slit, sc in next 29 row
ends to front edge, ch 1, turn corner and sc in end of last sc made, sc in next 14 sc up
front edge, sc in next row end, ch 1, turn corner and working around neck edge, sc in end
of row at front edge, sk next sc, sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog, sc in next
2 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc, sk next sc, sc
in next st at front edge, ch 1, turn corner and sc in end of row just made around neck
edge, sc in next row end, sc in next 14 free lps down front edge, ch 1, turn corner and
crochet in end of row just made down front edge, sc in next 30 row ends to center back
slit; FO. (121 sc, 4 ch-1)
SLEEVE TRIM (Work the same on both sleeves):
1. With RS facing, join CC with sc in 1st sc after seam at wrist, sc in next 21 sc; join with
sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn. (22 sc)
2. Sc in same pl as joining and in ea sc around; FO. (22 sc)
WRIST RUFFLES (Optional):
These are a bit fussy to make, but if you have the patience, they look
especially cute with the jabot. Unfortunately, they have to be added after
the jacket is on the doll, because if done before arms are attached, they
add bulk that makes it very difficult to get the jacket over the hands.
You may want to take a break between working the two ruffles. Picture
on the left is me after I did them both without taking a break.
1. Push up the jacket sleeves to expose the free lps around row 11 at wrist. With hand
pointing away from you, join one strand of white with sl st at bottom edge of wrist, ch 3,
2 dc in same pl, 3 dc in ea free lp around; join with sl st in top of beg ch-3, ch 3, do not
turn. (45 dc)
2 . Dc in ea dc around; join with sl st in top of beg ch-3, FO. (45 dc)
3. Using 1 strand of dark green, join with sl st in 1st dc, (ch 1, sl st in next dc) around;
join with sl st in same pl with 1st sl st, FO. (50 ch-1 lps)
DERBY HAT:
MC (Main Color): Brown or Dark Green
CC (Contrasting Color): Black for Dark Green hat, or Dark Green for Brown hat
CROWN:
1. Begin with an adjustable ring using MC, make 6 sc in ring OR ch 2 with dark green, 6
sc in 2nd ch from hook; do not join. Use a piece of contrasting thread as a rnd marker.
2. 2 sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 6 times. (18 sc)
4. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 9 times. (27 sc)
5. Sc in ea sc around. (27 sc)
6. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 9 times. (36 sc)
7 – 8. Sc in ea sc around. (36 sc)
9. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) 9 times. (45 sc)
10 – 12. Sc in ea sc around. (45 sc)
13. (Sc2tog, sc in next 7 sc) 5 times. (40 sc)
14. Sc in ea sc around. (40 sc)
15. Sc in next 11 sc, sl st in next sc; do not work remaining sc at this time.
BRIM:
16. Ch 2, working in BL, hdc in same pl as joining, (hdc in next sc, 2 hdc in next sc) 19
times around, hdc in last sc; join with sl st in top of beg ch-2, ch 1, do not turn. (60 hdc)
17. Rev-sc (see Special Instructions – page 4) in next sc to the right, rev-sc in ea hdc
around; FO, leaving long end. (60 rev-sc)
• Thread end onto tapestry needle, insert through 1st rev-sc to join. Weave through
brim to inside of crown, then finish weaving and FO.
• Shape crown and brim with fingers. Sides of brim should curve upward and in
toward crown. Front and back of brim should tilt downward slightly (see photos).
HAT BAND:
1. Leaving a tail at the beginning, ch 3 with one strand of CC, sc in 2nd ch from hook
and in next ch; ch 1, turn. (2 sc)
2 – 49. Sc in next 2 sc; ch 1, turn. (2 sc)
50. Sc in next 2 sc; FO, leaving long end for sewing band to hat. (2 sc)
• Beginning at back, pin band to bottom edge of crown, stretching to fit until the two
edges meet. Sew short edges together at back using ladder stitch.
• Tack band to hat around bottom edge.
• Pull tails inside crown to weave and hide.
SHAMROCK:
1. Ch 4 with one strand of Billiard Green, sl st in 4th sc from hook to form a ring, ch 1,
turn, 6 sc in ring, turn, sl st in base of ring, (ch 4, sl st in 4th sc from hook to form a ring,
ch 1, turn, 6 sc in ring, turn, sl st in base of 2nd ring) 3 times, ch 5, sl st in 2nd ch from
hook and in next 2 ch, sl st in base of 2nd ring; FO.
• With RS facing you, bring the 1st ring over to overlap the stem; tack in place.
• Sew shamrock to the hat atop the hat band toward one side of the hat.
