Hello dear Amigurumi Followers
Today we share Amigurumi Valentine Bear Free Pattern for you. As you know we share new free amigurumi pattern every day. The main crochets are gazelle, amigurumi bear, pola, crochet panda, penguin, giraffe, llama, pig, bunny, clown, lamb, bee, crochet unicorn, amigurumi doll, fox, penguin, dinosaur, crochet elephant, hippo, monkey, crochet cat, crochet dog and more …
Todays daily new amigurumi free crochet pattern is Amigurumi Valentine Bear.
I want to give you some informations about this amigurumi free pattern ; Valentine Bear.

Amigurumi Valentine Bear Free Pattern-2

• The bear is knitted of Alize Angora Real 40 yarn (wool 40%, acrylic 60%)
• B 100gr-480m
• Hook 1.25.
• The bear is knitted in one piece from the feet to the crown.
•  It is imperative to use a frame so that the toy holds shape, and most importantly the head because the bear’s neck is very thin.

MR – amigurumi ring
ch – air loop
inc – increase
dec – decrease
sc – single crochet
hdc – double crochet
dc – double crochet


We start knitting from the feet. The marker runs strictly behind the leg.

Left leg
9 Ch
We start knitting in the second loop of the chain.
1p-7sc, 3sc in one loop, on the other side of the chain 6sc, inc = 18p
2p-inc, 6sc, inc х3,6sc, inc х2 = 24p
3p-1sc, inc, 6hdc., (1sc, inc) x3.6hdc., (1sc, inc) x2 = 30p
4p-inc, 4hdc., 8dc., incdc х3., 8dc., 4hdc., inc х2 = 36p
5p-7p -36sc (3 rows)
8p- (4sc, dec) x6 = 30p
10p- (3sc, dec) x6 = 24p + 1 offset loop
11p-3sc, (1sc, dec) x6., 3sc, = 18p
Start stuffing your foot. Do not stuff the sock too much, there will be tightening for fingers.
Now cut off a piece of wire (I have 35cm), make a loop, insert it into tap the foot and around the wire with padding.
12p-3sc, dec x6., 3sc, = 12p
13r-17r-12sc (5 rows)
18p-10sc, 2sc leave, do not tie to the end of the row.
When we connect with the right leg, then these two loops will be the first loops.
We tear off the thread. Fill.

Right Leg
9 Ch
We start knitting in the second loop of the chain.
1p-7sc, 3sc in one loop, on the other side of the chain 6sc, inc = 18p
2p-inc, 6sc, inc х3, 6sc, inc х2 = 24p
3p-1sc, inc, 6 hdc., (1sc, inc) x3.6hdc., (1sc, inc) x2 = 30p
4p-inc, 4hdc., 8dc., inc dc х3., 8dc., 4hdc., inc х2 = 36p
5p-7p -36sc (3 rows)
8p- (4sc, dec) x6 = 30p

19p-3sc on the right leg, 6 Ch, now take the left leg and start knitting from the remaining untied stitches 12sc on the left leg, 6sc after ch, 9sc on the right leg.
20p- 3sc, 6sc on ch, 3sc, (inc, 1sc) х3., 12sc- (3sc on the left leg + 6sc along the chain from ch, + 3sc on the right leg = 12sc)., (1sc, inc) X3 = 42p
After row 20, the thread should be in the center of the right leg, behind.
About the wire.
Twist two wires from the legs together, but twist only the length of the body plus the neck, in the head two wires should be separate.
21r-22r-42sc (2 rows)
23р-4sc, inch6., (incavki for priests), 12sc, (inc, 1sc) x6., (Increments for tummy), 8sc = 54p
24p-26r-54sc (3rd row)
27p- (8sc, inc) x6 = 60p
29p-5sc, inc, (9sc, inc) х5,4sc = 66p
30r-37r-66sc (8 rows)
38p-40sc, (dec, 1sc) x6., 8sc = 60p decreases in the middle of the tummy
40p-35sc, (dec, 1sc) x6., 7sc = 54p decreases in the middle of the tummy

41r-43r-54sc (3 rows)
44p- (3sc, dec) x6., 24sc = 48p
We begin to stuff the body and then, as the body knits, continue stuffing.
45r-46r- 48sc
47p- (6sc, dec) X6 = 42p
49p- (5sc, dec) x6 = 36p
51p- (4sc, dec) x6 = 30p
53p- (3sc, dec) x6 = 24p
54p- (2sc, dec) x6 = 18p
55p-18sc fill to the end

56p-dec x9 = 9p
57r-58r-9sc (2 rows)
Let’s move on to knitting the head.

59p-inc x9 = 18p.
60p- (2sc, inc) x6 = 24p.
61p- (3sc, inc) x6 = 30p.
62p- (4sc, inc) x6 = 36p.
63p- (5sc, inc) x6 = 42p.
64p- (6sc, inc) x6 = 48p.
65p- (7sc, inc) x6 = 54p.
66p- (8sc, inc) x6 = 60p.
67p- (9sc, inc) x6 = 66p.
68p- (10sc, inc) x6 = 72p.
69p- (11sc, inc) x6 = 78p.
70p- (12sc, inc) x6 = 84p.
71r-78r-84sc (8 rows)
Make such a structure from wire as in the photo, this is for stability bear heads. The head is large on a thin neck. Will help the same bend the head to the sides.
From this point on, you can gradually and carefully fill your head.
The wire should not touch the head, but be inside it. And around wire packing.
It is better to start stuffing in small lumps, so that gradually fill the entire head space.

79p-6sc, dec, (12sc, dec) x5., 6sc = 78p.
81p- (11sc, dec) x6 = 72p.
83р-5sc, dec, (10sc, dec) х5., 5sc = 66p.
85p- (9sc, dec) x6 = 60p.
87p-4sc, dec, (8sc, dec) x5., 4sc = 54p.
89p- (7sc, dec) x6 = 48p.
91p-3sc, dec, (6sc, dec) x5., 3sc = 42p.
93p- (5sc, dec) x6 = 36p.
94p-2sc, dec, (4sc, dec) x5., 2sc = 30p.
95p- (3sc, dec) x6 = 24p.
96р-1sc, dec, (2sc, dec) х5., 1sc = 18p.
97p- (1sc, dec) x6 = 12p to fill
98p-dec x6.

Arms (make two)
1p-6sc in MR
2p-inc x6 = 12p
3p- (1sc, inc) X6 = 18p
4p- (2sc, inc) X6 = 24p
5p-8p-24sc (4 rows)
9p- (2sc, dec) x6 = 18p
10p-11p- 18sc (2 rows)
12p- (1sc, dec) x6 = 12p Fill the palm, but very weakly, so that later you can was on it to pull your fingers.
13p-30p- 12sc (18 rows)
Now you need to cut off a piece of wire so that it sticks out of the handle by 1.5-2 cm longer, but insert the wire only after tightening your fingers.
Flatten the palm and embroider two stitches for the fingers, slightly tightening. Fill the handle a little.

(from finishing yarn)
3 Ch
We knit in rotary rows, at the end of each row we make Ch
We start with the second loop of the chain
1p-inc x2 = 4sc Ch turn
2p-inc, 2sc, inc = 6sc Ch turn
3p-inc, 4sc, inc = 8sc Ch turn
4p-inc, 6sc, inc = 10sc Ch turn
5p-inc, 8sc, inc = 12sc Ch turn
6p-inc, 10sc, inc = 14sc Ch turn
7p-16p- 14sc (10 rows) Ch turn
17p-dec, 10sc, dec = 12sc Ch turn
18p-dec, 8sc, dec = 10sc Ch turn
19p-dec, 6sc, dec = 8sc Ch turn
20p-dec, 4sc, dec = 6sc Ch turn
21p-dec, 2sc, dec = 4sc Ch turn
22p-dec x2 = 2sc without turning, tie the entire muzzle around the perimeter with 2 rows of sc

Ears (make two)
1p-6sc in MR
2p-inc x6 = 12p
3p- (1sc, inc) X6 = 18p
4p- (2sc, inc) X6 = 24p
5p- (3sc, inc) X6 = 30p
6p-9p-30sc (4 rows)
Fold the ear in half and tie the bottom edge in two layers with 15sc

Inner eyelet
(from finishing yarn) 2 parts.
9 Ch
Knit in pivoting rows, at the end of the row do Ch
We start knitting from the second loop of the chain.
1p-3p-8sc, (3 rows) Ch turn
4p-dec, 4sc, dec = 6sc Ch turn
5p-dec, 2sc, dec = 4sc thread break
Sew the eyelet neatly into the main ear.
The inner eyelet can be cut out of fabric.

Belly Pad
(from finishing yarn) 1 piece.
1p-6sc in MR
2p-inc x6 = 12p
3p- (1sc, inc) x6 = 18p
4p- (2sc, inc) X6 = 24p
5p- (3sc, inc) X6 = 30p
6p- (4sc, inc) X6 = 36p
Break the thread.

Before starting the assembly, you need to comb all the parts. Can Velcro, you can use a slicker.
Comb very carefully so as not to change the shape of the parts.
Colored pins can be inserted in the center of the tummy and in the center of the head, so that when assembling, you orient yourself and arrange the bear symmetrically.
You can immediately sew the patch on the tummy, this will also help to determine with the center of the bear shape.
Sew on the muzzle, be sure to add filler, but not much to the muzzle did not stick out forward, but, as it were, protruded slightly forward. It located not in the center of the head, but much downward. Somewhere from row 65 (or through 6 rows from the neck) and up.
Sew on the ears. The bear’s head is not round, and you can see how there are places for ears.

Make a small eye tighten. To do this, insert the needle behind the head at neck and withdraw into the first eye, tighten a little, return, then from the neck withdraw into the second eye and back to the neck. Tighten slightly and fasten the thread.
And because our eyes will be located very close to each other, then we can with one stitch to capture the entire area intended for the eyes, and slightly pull, do not pull strongly, otherwise they may look like they have failed.
This option will deepen the eyes evenly.
Choose the nose and eyes at your discretion. But it is better that the nose is not small, I have a length of 2.5 cm If there is no nozzle suitable for the size, it is easy to make it out of plastic or dump it, but you can find a button and cover it with a cloth. There are many options.

Place the eyes just above the muzzle and very close to each other.
Stick the handles with a protruding wire into the body on the sides in the region of 49-50 rows, sew on. Make sure your arms are symmetrical.
Sew on the tummy on the most convex part of the belly, a drop add filler.
Embroider a smile and eyebrows. Embroider a smile in one thread so that it is so not very noticeable, but the eyebrows are better in two strings. Embroider the same fingers and toes.
You can tint the bear a little – cheeks, eyebrows.
Cut several threads from the main yarn and string them on the crown heads (where we closed the last loops) as we string the fringe.
Cut to desired length and fluff. It will be a forelock.
The bear can be made with a felted muzzle and a felted nose. Eyes made of plastic. Sew on patches.
The bear is ready.

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