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Today we share Amigurumi Crochet Mini Santa Claus Free Pattern for you. As you know we share new free amigurumi pattern every day. The main crochets are gazelle, amigurumi bear, pola, crochet panda, penguin, giraffe, llama, pig, bunny, clown, lamb, bee, crochet unicorn, amigurumi doll, fox, penguin, dinosaur, crochet elephant, hippo, monkey, crochet cat, crochet dog and more …
Todays daily new amigurumi free crochet pattern is Amigurumi Crochet Mini Santa Claus.
I want to give you some informations about this amigurumi free pattern ; Crochet Mini Santa Claus.

Materials
– Worsted-weight yarn (4-ply) in red, white, black, beige, and a small amount of gold. (The U.K. equivalent is Aran, and AUS/NZ is 8 ply.) I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in the colors “Red”, “Black”, “White”, and “Sungold”. For the skin, I used Lion Brand’s Vanna’s Choice in the color “Beige”.
– G (4 mm) crochet hook
– 9 mm black safety eyes
– Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice)
– Bent tip tapestry needle
– Scissors
– Stitch marker
– Straight pins
– Pom Pom maker
Abbreviation Key for This Mini Santa Claus Amigurumi
Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.
sc – single crochet
st/sts – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch
dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
FLO – front loops only
BLO – back loops only
R1 – round 1
rep – repeat
** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.
Amigurumi Crochet Mini Santa Claus Free Pattern:
Head (using skin-colored yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts) (you can use the magic ring if you prefer, as it won’t make a difference in the end. In that case, you will make a magic ring and make 6 sc in the magic ring. Watch this video to see how to start crocheting in the round using the “ch 2 method”.)
R2: *inc 1* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc 1* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc 1* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc 1* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: *sc 4, inc 1* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7-13: sc in all 36 sts (7 rounds total at 36 sts each)
R14: *sc 4, dec 1* rep 6 times (30 st)
R15: *sc 3, dec 1* rep 6 times (24 sts)
Stop now and insert the eyes. Insert your safety eyes between R12 & 13, 7 sts apart. Start to stuff the head firmly.
R16: *sc 2, dec 1* rep 6 times (18 sts)
Finish off. No need to leave a long tail. Finish stuffing head firmly and set head aside for now. Do not sew the opening of the head closed.
Legs (make 2 starting in black yarn)
Feet are made separately then joined together to create the body.
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2: sc in all 6 sts (6 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc 1* rep 3 times (9 sts)
Switch to red yarn. Watch this video here to learn how to make the clean edge color change used on R4a and R4.
R4a: in BLO very loosely slip stitch in all 9 sts (9 sts)
R4: in BLO sc in all 9 sts (9 sts) (this is the only round we will crochet in the back loops until R7)
Finish off on the 1st leg. Do NOT finish off or cut the yarn on the 2nd leg.
We will now join the feet together and start making the body. The left foot is the one we finished off on, the right foot is the one still attached to the yarn that we did not finish off (from the doll’s perspective).
Joining the Legs Together (continuing in red yarn)
R5: Join the right leg to the left leg with a sc in the 1st st of the last round you made on the left leg, now sc 1, inc, *sc 2, inc* rep 2 times, finish joining the legs together by making a sc in the next st on the right leg, then sc 1, inc, *sc 2, inc* rep 2 times (24 sts)
You will notice a hole in between his legs. To close this up, pull the finishing tail from the left foot down through the hole and using your tapestry needle, sew the opening closed. When finished, weave the tail back up to the inside of the body and make a knot inside to secure the sewing.
Making the Body (Continuing in the Round Using Red Yarn)
R6: sc in all 24 sts (24 sts)
R7: in BLO sc in all 24 sts (24 sts)
R8: sc in all 24 sts (24 sts)
Switch to black yarn.
R9a: in BLO very loosely slip stitch in all 24 sts (24 sts)
R9: in BLO sc in all 24 sts (24 sts)
Switch to red yarn.
R10a: in BLO very loosely slip stitch in all 24 sts (24 sts)
R10: in BLO sc in all 24 sts (24 sts) (this is the last round we will crochet in the BLO)
R11: sc in all 24 sts (24 sts)
R12: *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the legs and body firmly.
Sewing the Body to the Head
Since both the last round of the head and the last round of the body have 18 sts, the two pieces will line up perfectly.
Align the body to the underside of the head carefully so that the eyes and the feet line up evenly. Pin the body and head together using straight pins to make sure they stay positioned correctly while you are sewing them together.
Using the whipstitch, sew the two pieces together. Keep checking the position of the body as you are sewing to make sure it is still even and not shifting too much. When you are about three fourths of the way around, you might want to add a little more stuffing to the neck to make it sturdier. When finished, knot the finishing tail from the head to the remaining sewing tail to secure the sewing and weave the tails into the body to finish.
Coat fringe (using white yarn)
To make the white fringe on his coat, turn the doll upside down and insert your hook into the first front loop from R7 of the body. Make a slip stitch to join the yarn to the body.
Finish off neatly using the invisible finish technique.
Now we will take a length of gold/yellow yarn and our tapestry needle and embroider the belt.
When finished, weave the starting tail and the finishing tail through the body and to the back. Now knot the two tails together to secure them and weave the tails into the body again to finish.
Arms (make 2 starting in skin-colored yarn)
R1: ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook (5 sts)
R2: sc in all 5 sts (5 sts)
Switch to white yarn (we won’t be doing the clean edge color change for R3).
R3: sc in all 5 sts (5 sts)
Switch to red yarn.
R4a: in BLO very loosely slip stitch in all 5 sts (5 sts)
R4: in BLO sc in all 5 sts (5 sts) (this is the last round we will crochet in the BLO)
R5-6: sc in all 5 sts (2 rounds total at 5 sts each)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Do not stuff the arms. Instead, flatten them and then for each arm, sew the open ends closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing. Watch this video to learn how to sew the open ends closed on a crocheted piece.
Sew to either side of the body using the whipstitch just under the head. Similar to what we did for the belt buckle, when you are finished sewing the arms on, weave the remaining tails from both arms through to the back of the body and knot the two tails together to secure the sewing.
Weave the remaining tails into the body to finish.
Beard (using white yarn)
R1: ch 26, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, make 1 sc in each of the next 25 chs (25 sts), ch 1, turn.
R2-5: sc in all 25 sts (4 rows total at 25 sts each)
Finish off leaving long tail for sewing. Fold in half lengthwise. Whipstitch the two edges together to create a tube.
Sewing the Beard to the Head
Now position the beard so that the top edges are positioned at a slight angle over R14 & 15 of the head. We will sew the first short edge of the beard down first using the long tail we left and your tapestry needle. Sew the edge to the head using the whipstitch over R10 & 11 of the head.
When the short edge is sewn on, weave the tail through the head to under the long edge of the beard and bring your needle and tail up through both head and beard. Step one: Go over one stitch on the beard and pull your needle through the beard and one stitch of the head under the beard. Step two: Then going under the beard, skip several stitches and bring your needle back up through the beard.
Repeat steps one and two until the middle of the beard is sewn down and you reach the other short end. You will have only made 3-4 stitches when you reach the other end of the beard. We are just sewing it down enough so that it doesn’t flop around too much. Feel free to make more stitches spaced closer together if you like, though. Once at the other end, sew the second short edge to R10 & 11 of the head just like we did for the first edge. Knot the sewing tail and the starting tail of the beard together to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tails into the head to finish.
Mustache (using white yarn)
ch 7, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, make 1 sl st in the next ch, in the next ch [make 1 sc, 1 hdc, and 1 sc all in the same ch], make 1 sl st in each of the next 2 chs, in the next ch [make 1 sc, 1 hdc, and 1 sc all in the same ch], make 1 sl st in the last ch (10 sts).
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Weave the sewing tail to the middle of the mustache. Position the mustache over R12 of the head with the flat edge facing up. Sew the two middle stitches to R12 of the head using the whipstitch.
When finished, weave the sewing tail and the starting tail to the top of the head. Now knot the two tails together to secure the sewing and weave the tails into the head again to finish.
Pom pom (using white yarn)
I made my pom pom using a mini 20mm pom pom maker. There are many different ways to make pom poms, including with cardboard or with a dinner fork. Below are links to video tutorials for each of these methods.
Hat (using red yarn)
R1: ch 2, 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook (4 sts)
R2: *inc* rep 4 times (8 sts)
R3: sc in all 8 sts (8 sts)
R4: *sc 1, inc* rep 4 times (12 sts)
R5: sc in all 12 sts (12 sts)
R6: *sc 2, inc* rep 4 times (16 sts)
Adding the Pom Pom to the Hat
Pause here so that we can sew the pom pom to the top of the hat. To do this, I threaded both tails from the pom pom through the top center of the hat with the tails being spaced about one stitch apart from each other. Then I knotted the two tails together on the inside of the hat to secure the pom pom. The inside of the hat won’t be visible since we’ll be sewing the hat to the head so don’t worry about the knots.
R8: *sc 3, inc* rep 4 times (20 sts)
R9: sc in all 20 sts (20 sts)
R10: *sc 4, inc* rep 4 times (24 sts)
R11: sc in all 24 sts (24 sts)
R12: *sc 5, inc* rep 4 times (28 sts)
R13: sc in all 28 sts (28 sts)R14: *sc 6, inc* rep 4 times (32 sts)
R15: sc in all 32 sts (32 sts)
R16: *sc 7, inc* rep 4 times (36 sts)
R17: sc in all 36 sts (36 sts)
R18: *sc 8, inc* rep 4 times (40 sts)
R19-26: sc in all 40 sts (8 rounds total at 40 sts each)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Sewing the Hat to the Head
Place the hat on the head so that the bottom edge is resting on the top of the beard edges and not over them. Pin the hat in place using straight pins so that it stays in place while you’re sewing it down.
Thread your tapestry needle with the long tail we left and sew the hat to the head. Step one: Pull your needle up through a stitch on the head and through a stitch on the hat. Step two: Then, go over one stitch on the hat and pull your needle through that stitch and a stitch from the head. Repeat steps one and two until the hat is sewn on.
When finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the head.
Hat band (using white yarn)
The hat band is worked in rows instead of rounds so we will ch 1, and turn at the end of each row. The hat band is also worked entirely in the BLO (back loops only) using sc sts.
R1: ch 4, starting in 2nd ch from hook sc 3 (3 sts), ch 1, turn
R2-48: in BLO (back loops only) sc 3, ch 1, turn (47 rows total at 3 sts each)
Before finishing off, wrap the band around the hat to make sure it is the correct length for your hat. You may need to make it shorter or longer than mine. Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Join the two short ends of the band together and sew them together using the whipstitch. You now have a circular band.
Sewing the Hat Band to the Hat
Slip it over the top of the hat so that it fits snugly around the bottom edge. Pin it into place using straight pins so that it stays in place while we sew it on.
Weave the sewing tail up to the middle of the hat band.
We will sew the middle section of the hat band to the bottom round of the hat. Step one: Go over one row on the hat band and pull your needle through that row and a stitch from the bottom round of the hat. Step two: Pull your needle up through another stitch from the bottom round of the hat and through a row of the hat band. Repeat steps one and two until the hat band is sewn on.
When finished, weave the starting tail from the other end of the hat band down to where the sewing tail is. Knot the two tails together to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tails into the head to finish.
Finishing Touches for Mini Santa Claus Amigurumi
Now, fold the hat down so that the pom pom is hanging over the hat band. Pin the fold in place with straight pins.
Take a length of red yarn and knot one end. Using your tapestry needle, pull the yarn under the hat and bring it up through the side of the hat just above the top of the hat band.
Grab a stitch from the top of the hat and a stitch from the bottom edge of the hat above the hat band. Repeat this until you feel like the fold in the hat is secure and won’t come undone.
To finish, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the head.
Congratulations !!!
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