About the photos. The white cat was crocheted with Katia Ingenua in off-white. The
gray cat was made from one strand of heather gray punch thread and one strand of
charcoal gray Crystal Palace Kid Merino held together, which results in a cat that is about
¼” (6mm) shorter.
LIST OF MATERIALS (cat is approximately 5.5 inches tall or 14 cm):
• Katia Ingenua, or other worsted weight mohair yarn in off-white, or color of
choice (1 ball [153 yds] makes two cats)
• Size 5 (1.9 mm) crochet hook
• Fiberfill stuffing
• Two 5-mm black glass eyes, or onyx beads
• Ten 3/8″ (7 mm) joint disks
• Five ¾” (1.9 cm) cotter pins
• Embroidery thread – pink and black
• Upholstery or other strong thread in color similar to cat, if thread jointing
• 2 round-head straight pins to assist with eye placement
• Black nylon or other strong thread for attaching eyes (nylon thread will fit into the
beading needles, and is very strong)
• Needles: 2.5″ (6.5 cm) milliners, beading, small blunt tapestry, small sewing
• Finger Mohair Brush
• Small, sharp scissors
• Small hemostat, long tweezers, or other long, narrow tool for stuffing
• Small needle-nose pliers for turning cotter pins
• Black fine tip marker, such as Micron .20mm
• Gray pencil or eye shadow for shading eye area
• Pink pencil or blusher for shading cheeks and inside ears
• 1 chenille stem (pipe cleaner)
SEE PAGE 13 FOR LIST OF SUPPLIES NEEDED FOR DRESS.
A list of abbreviations used and a list of internet suppliers is provided on page 15/16.
NOTES ON CROCHETING WITH EYELASH YARN OR MOHAIR:
How to work: When mohair or other fuzzy, furry, or eyelash
yarn is used to crochet in the usual way, the fuzzier side ends up
being the wrong side. Therefore, when working with mohair, the
bear is worked from the inside so that the furrier side will be on
the outside. In addition, the stitches are worked in the back loop
(BL) only. Working the stitches in the BL makes this type of
thread much easier to crochet with, and allows more of the “fur”
to be free, resulting in a furrier animal. The beginning tail of
yarn will be on the outside of the piece, so you’ll need to thread it
onto a needle after you’ve worked a few rounds, and pull it to the
inside of the piece you’re working on.
Pulling out stitches. This kind of yarn can be unforgiving if you make a mistake and
have to pull stitches out, so extra care is needed in following instructions and marking
rounds. However, if you find that you must ravel some of your work, you’ll have to work
stitch by stitch with some yarns. Here’s the technique that I use:
1. With the working side facing you, carefully pull out as many stitches as will come
apart easily.
2. Concentrating on one stitch at a time, use a small tapestry needle and an outward
motion to gently coax the fibers free from the stitch until it is loosed enough to pull out.
Brushing. If you use mohair yarn, the animal can be brushed
up with the finger brush to be as furry as you wish. The more
you brush it, the furrier it will be. You need to brush each
piece as you complete it so that you can get to all areas. First
brush front to back, then back to front, then side to side, until
the piece is as furry as you want it. The brushing is optional,
but you will then need to trim the piece whether or not you have brushed it. There may
be times when you are going for the unkempt look and can omit the trimming, but usually
you’ll want a neater look. Trimming. Trimming the animal is rather like giving a
haircut to a person with short hair. Keep in mind that you can always take off more, but
you can’t put it back if you cut too much. For this size animal, I like to end up with “fur”
that’s about ¼” (6 mm) long, but you can make it shorter or longer, depending on the look
you want for the final product. You will cut in one direction with small, sharp scissors.
Pull up the fur between your fingers in the section that you are going to trim, then move
the scissors along, snipping small sections at a time,
following the shape of the piece and keeping the length
the same all over. For instance, when trimming the head,
start with the muzzle. Pull the fur on the front of the
muzzle straight out, then trim from bottom to top (you’ll
want to trim fairly close in the area where the nose will
be, but you can do that later). Next pull up the fur on the
top of the muzzle, straight up, and trim from front to
back; move downward to the next section adjacent to the
area that you just trimmed, and do the same. Then, pull up the hair in a section going
around the head from the top edge of the muzzle to the bottom edge of the muzzle, and
trim around. Move to the section of fur next to the part that you just trimmed, and do the
same. Work around the head in this manner, and complete trimming of each piece
similarly. Be aware that handling of the mohair causes more “hairs” to be released, so
you will need to give your animal a final trim after you’ve finished assembling it.
HEAD: (HORIZONTAL MUZZLE)
1. Ch 5 with cat color, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, 2 sc in last ch, continue
around to opposite side of chain and make 2 sc in 1st free lp, sc in next 2 free lps, 2 sc in
last free lp, do not join – use a short piece of contrasting thread to mark the beginning of
each round. (12 sc)
2. (Sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 3 sc) twice, sc in next 2 sc. (18 sc)
3 – 5. Sc in ea sc around. (18 sc)
6. Sc in next 4 sc, pull a contrasting marker into the next sc (You will leave this marker
in as you work the head, to help you place the cotter pin for the neck joint.), sc in same sc
where you just inserted the joint marker, move rnd marker to begin rnd here, (This
changes the beginning point for this and subsequent rounds, but does not change the total
stitch count). (This is the bottom of the muzzle). (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) twice, 2
sc in ea of next 10 sc, (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) twice. (32 sc)
7. Sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 4 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 8 sc, sc in next
4 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 4 sc, sc in next 4 sc. (48 sc)
8. Sc in ea sc around. (48 sc)
9. Sc in next 16 sc, (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) 4 times, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 4
times, sc in next 16 sc. (56 sc)
10 – 11. Sc in ea sc around. (56 sc)
12. Sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog 8 times, sc in next 16 sc, sc2tog 8 times, sc in next 4 sc. (40
sc)
13 – 14. Sc in ea sc around. (40 sc)
15. (Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc) 8 times. (32 sc)
16. Sc in ea sc around. (32 sc)
17. (Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 8 times. (24 sc)
• At this point stuff the muzzle with small pieces of fiberfill so that you can get a better
idea of where center is, then place a disc onto a cotter pin. Insert the pin into the head
and out the center bottom of the head between rows 12 and 13, directly in line with the
middle of the snout (use the marker to help you), easing the pin through carefully so as
not to tear the thread. Unfortunately, it’s difficult to know for sure whether the pin is
centered until the head is stuffed, so continue stuffing the head so that you can be sure
you have the joint in the right place. If you find that the cotter pin is off-center, take the
stuffing out and do it again, adjusting the cotter pin to center.
18. Sc in ea sc around. (24 sc)
19. (Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 6 times. (18 sc)
• Continue to stuff head firmly, shaping as you go. Check shaping from all angles.
20. Sc in ea sc around. (18 sc)
21. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 6 times. (12 sc)
22. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 4 times; FO leaving long end for sewing. (8 sc)
• Whether or not you should use the long end left over from closing to sew the openings
on your bear pieces depends upon the type of yarn you are using. Generally the mohair
type yarn can be used to close your pieces without too much trouble, but if you find it too
difficult to sew with your yarn, use other thread in a similar color to do your sewing.
• Add as much stuffing as you need to in order to round out the back of the head.
• Thread the long end onto a tapestry needle and sew a row of gathering stitches in and
out of the FL around rnd 22; pull gently but firmly to gather; FO. Run the needle
through the head and pull out another spot elsewhere on the head (always between
stitches, being careful not to catch the fabric) to secure and hide the thread end; repeat if
needed. Clip the thread close to the surface so that the end disappears inside the head.
• Brush and trim the head.
ATTACH EYES:
Use pins (the kind with round glass heads are good for this) to locate the eye positions.
Mark the position. If you want to shade the area behind the eyes with a gray pencil or
eye shadow, now is a good time. Sew the eyes on with black nylon or other strong
thread: Begin by threading a sturdy needle, such as the milliner’s needle, with the nylon
or other strong thread. Wire loop eyes: Crimp the wire loop, if it’s not pre-crimped, until
you can just get your needle through the loop; insert the needle through the loop, pulling
the thread into the loop, and then remove the thread from the needle. Thread both ends
back onto the needle, and then insert the needle into the first eye location. Bring the
needle out the back or bottom of the head (depending on
the angle you want), pulling the thread until the wire
loop touches the face. Insert the crimped loop into the
same place where the needle went in (use a larger needle
to enlarge the hole to accommodate the loop if
necessary), pushing it flush against the face. Pull gently
but firmly on the thread to slightly imbed the eye into
the face. Keeping the thread taut so as not to allow the
eye to loosen, insert the needle back into the exact place,
then push through to another place on the bottom of the
head, to help anchor the thread. Remove the thread
from the needle, and tie the ends with a surgeon’s knot
(see diagram above). Thread the ends back onto the needle, then push the needle through
to another spot on the bottom of the head. Tug on the thread to force the knot inside the
head. Pull the thread taut, and clip close to surface so that the end disappears inside the
head. Repeat the process for the second eye. Bead eyes: Use the same method as for
wired eyes, but if you can’t get the needle you’re using through the eye bead, remove the
thread from the needle, insert it through the eye bead, then rethread the needle. If you see
small indentations on the back of the head caused by attaching the eyes, insert the needle
into the head sideways underneath the stitches where the indentation is, and gently pull
upward with the needle until the area is even with the rest of the head.
(Optional) Using the fine tip black marker, draw a fine line across the top of the eye
from one side to the other, and across the bottom of the eye from one side to the other.
Draw the line using a dotting motion, staying very close to the outer edge of the eye.
• These instructions for facial features are suggestions only. Don’t be afraid to
experiment with eye, brow, nose, and mouth shape and placement, as well as ear
placement. Sometimes the most far-out facial renderings make the cutest animals.
NOSE, MOUTH, EYEBROWS:
Trim the muzzle where the nose will be created. Embroider the nose using satin stitch
with pink embroidery floss or perle cotton (3 strands of embroidery floss were used for
the model). The photo of the cat’s nose below will give you an idea of the shape you’re
aiming for. Begin by knotting the thread and inserting the needle up through the bottom
of the head or muzzle, and coming out at center top of muzzle.
Tug to pull knot inside head. Now bring the needle straight down
from the exit point, and insert back into the muzzle where you
want the longest point of the nose to be. Make another stitch over
the first one, then make the next stitch beginning at the bottom
center of the nose, and ending to the right of the center stitch
where you want the edge of the nose to be. Repeat to the left. Now fill in a thin triangle
for the longer center portion of the nose, and add some shorter stitches to either side of
and touching the center triangle, until it is the desired shape.
Purchased noses are available and are a cute alternative to an embroidered nose. They
come in a variety of shapes, colors and textures. If using a purchased nose with a wire
loop, attach it at the top end of the muzzle using the same procedure used for the eyes.
You may want to put a tiny bit of glue on the back of the nose to help it stay in place.
Change to black floss (2 strands) and embroider 1 vertical straight stitch beginning at
bottom center of nose and going downward about 1 or 2 sc in length. Make an inverted vstitch
for mouth, with center being at the bottom of the straight stitch that comes down
from nose. Embroider a straight stitch above each eye to create brows if desired, making
each brow 2 or 3 sc long.
LEFT EAR:
Work the ears in both lps if you can manage it. If the yarn is too thick to enable you to
work in both lps, then work in the BL, and then brush the ears so that the “fur” will hide
the ridges formed by working in the BL.
1. Leave a tail at the beginning that is long enough to thread onto a needle and pull
inside the head to hide. Ch 8 with cat color, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 6 ch; ch 1,
turn. (7 sc)
2. Sk next sc, sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog; ch 1, turn. (5 sc)
3. Sk next sc, sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog; ch 1, turn. (3 sc)
4. Sk next sc, sc2tog; ch 1, turn. (1 sc)
5. Sc in next sc; FO. (1 sc)
6. Row 5 is RS. Working loosely, with RS facing, join with sc in end of foundation ch,
sc in next 5 row ends to tip of ear, sc in sc at tip of ear, ch 2, sc in same pl, skipping end
of sc just made, sc in next 5 row ends to bottom edge, sc in end of foundation ch; FO,
leaving a tail that is long enough to pull inside the head to hide. (12 sc, 1 ch-2 sp)
RIGHT EAR:
1 – 5. Use the instructions for rows 1 – 5 of the right ear.
6. With WS facing, repeat row 6 of left ear.
• Brush up and trim the ears. When trimming the ears, leave a 1/8″ – 1/4″ halo of fur
along the edges.
ATTACH EARS:
Row 6 is the front of the ear. Fold the ear in half vertically. Check for desired position
of ears by pinning them to the head. Use a pin at each bottom edge, and in the
center at the fold. The center of the ear should be placed about the width of 3
rnds behind the front edges of the ear. When you’ve decided where you want
to attach the ears, thread a needle with sturdy thread as close to the color of
the bear as possible, and sew the ears to the head using a ladder stitch (See
illustration at right). Thread the loose tails onto a tapestry needle and pull
them inside the head to hide. Clip the ends close to the surface so that they disappear
inside the head. Use a pencil or eye shadow in the color of your choice to shade the
inside of the ear cup – pink or gray for a white cat, brown for other light colors.
WHISKERS:
You can use just about any kind of thin thread to make your whiskers. Nylon thread is a
good choice. Use clear, white, or gray. You can use a method of choice to add whiskers.
Here is one method: Thread a needle with the thread of choice; (insert into first side of
muzzle beside the nose and bring it out on the opposite side of the muzzle, leaving a oneinch
(2.5cm) tail at the beginning. Take a tiny stitch right over the spot where your needle
just came out. As you pull the needle toward you, and the thread forms a loop, pass the
needle through the loop, so that it forms a knot against the muzzle when you pull it taut.
Insert the needle back into the muzzle very close to the first stitch, Clip the thread to the
desired length of the whisker, then trim the opposite whisker to the same length. Make
another whisker in the same way, beginning from the opposite side.) Repeat within ( )
for the desired number of whiskers. When finished, put a little fray stop between your
thumb and forefinger, and rub the whisker between them to coat it with the fray stop.
Use the same method to create two tufts of hair over each eye where brows would be.
ARMS: (Make 2)
1. Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook; do not join, place rnd marker. (6 sc)
2. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc. (10
sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc) twice. (12 sc)
4. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc) twice. (14 sc)
5 – 6. Sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)
7. Sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog, sl st loosely in next 5 sc. (7 sc, 5 sl st)
• The shaping stitches in rows 7 and 8 will cause the paw to bend downward. Slip
stitches are on the bottom of the wrist, hdc’s are at the top of the wrist.
8. Sc in next sc, hdc in next 5 sc, sc in next sc, sl st loosely in next 5 sl st. (5 sl st, , 2 sc,
5 hdc)
9. Sc in ea st around. (12 sc)
10. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc) twice. (14 sc)
• Stuff paw.
11 – 13. Sc around. (14 sc)
14. Sc in next 3 sc, sl st loosely in next 5 sc, sc in next 2 sc, hdc in next 4 sc. (5 sl st, 5
sc, 4 hdc)
15. Hdc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, sl st loosely in next 5 sl st, sc in next 6 st. (hdc, 8 sc, 5
sl st)
• The shaping stitches in rows 14 and 15 will cause the forearm to bend upward. Slip
stitches are on the top of the arm, hdc’s are at the bottom. Stuff lower arm.
16 – 18. Sc around. (14 sc)
19. (Sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc) twice. (12 sc)
IF DISK-JOINTING (Both arms):
Push a disk onto a cotter pin. Find the mid-point of the inside of the arm that will be
against the cat’s body. Insert a joint from inside the arm, between rnds 18 and 19 at the
mid-point, easing carefully between stitches. Check to be sure the pin appears to be
centered before closing. When you insert the pin for the 2nd arm, hold the two arms
together and make sure that the two pins face each other.
20. (Sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc) twice; FO, leaving long end for closing. (10 sc )
• Finish stuffing. If you are thread jointing, you’ll need to stuff quite firmly in order to get
a strong joint. However, if you are disk jointing your cat, stuff the top of the arm lightly
so that it will appear flatter against the body; however, you don’t want to feel the head of
the cotter pin through the fabric.
• It’s a good idea to wait until both arms are finished before closing the ends. Thread
long end on needle, then sew the top opening with a ladder stitch. Insert the needle into
the top of the arm and run it through the arm a time or two to secure. Pull thread taut
and clip close to surface so that it disappears into arm.
• Brush and trim the arms.
• Use one or two strands of floss to embroider 3 or 4 evenly spaced vertical straight
stitches on the end of each paw.
LEGS (MAKE 2):
1. Ch 5, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, 2 sc in next ch, continue around to
other side of ch and make 2 sc in 1st free lp, sc in next 2 free lps, 2 sc in last free lp; do
not join, place marker. (12 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 4 sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in ea
of next 2 sc. (20 sc)
3. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 8 sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc.
(30 sc)
4 – 5. Sc in ea sc around. (30 sc)
6. Sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog 10 times, sc in next 5 sc. (20 sc)
7. Sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog 5 times, sc in next 5 sc. (15 sc)
8. Sc in ea sc around. (15 sc)
• Begin stuffing foot; add more stuffing as you work up the leg.
9 – 12. Sc in ea sc around. (15 sc)
• You should be at the center back of the leg in order to make the next rounds work out,
so take out stitches or add stitches if needed to have the last sc of rnd 12 at center back.
13. Sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc. (16 sc)
14. Sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 7 sc. (18 sc)
15 – 17. Sc in ea sc around. (18 sc)
18. Sc in next sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here, sc in next 7 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in
next 7 sc. (16 sc)
19. Sc in next 7 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 7 sc. (15 sc)
20. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 5 times; FO, leaving long end for closing. (10 sc)
IF DISK-JOINTING (Both Legs):
Put a disk onto a cotter pin. Fold the leg together front-to-back and find the center of the
inside of the leg (the side that will be toward the cat’s body). Insert a joint pin from
inside the leg, underneath the center sc of rnd 18, easing carefully between that stitch and
the one below it. Add stuffing, and then check to be sure the pin is centered on the inner
side of the leg.
• Finish stuffing. Before closing, set the legs on a flat surface, soles of feet down with
inner legs facing each other, and check to make sure that the joint pins are at the same
level and are facing each other. Adjust if necessary.
• Close top openings same as for arms, after both legs are done.
• Using the same thread as for paws, embroider 3 or 4 straight stitches on the front of
each foot. Shade the toes and pad with pink pencil if desired.
BODY:
1. Ch 2 with cat color, 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook; do not join; place rnd marker. (5 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea sc around. (10 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) twice, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next
sc) twice. (16 sc)
4. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) 4 times. (20 sc)
5. Sc in next 5 sc, pl contrasting marker (this will be left in place to assist with arm
placement), sc in next 10 sc, pl another arm marker, sc in next 5 sc. (20 sc)
6. Sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 9 sc. (22 sc)
7. Sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc, pl another contrasting marker, which will be left in
place to identity center front, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc. (24 sc)
8. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 4 sc, sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc.
(30 sc)
9. Sc in ea sc around. (30 sc)
10. Sc in next 14 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 14 sc. (32 sc)
NECK JOINT: At this point push the cotter pin protruding from the
bottom of the head into the top of the center of round 1 of the body. Reach
inside the body to place a disk onto the cotter pin and push flush toward
head; then, reaching inside body with small pliers, curl each side of cotter
pin outward and down toward disk, until the curled leg is resting on the
disk.
ATTACH ARMS (if disk jointing):
Right Arm: Insert the cotter pin into the shoulder, between stitches, one round below and
just slightly behind the arm marker. Left Arm: Insert the cotter pin into the shoulder,
between stitches, 2 rounds below and slightly in front of the marker. Both Arms: Reach
in and place a disk onto the cotter pin. Complete same as neck joint above.
11 – 14. Sc in ea sc around. (32 sc)
• Stuff the upper part of the body. Begin with small pieces of fiberfill, and place them
carefully in the shoulder area, making sure that you get stuffing into all the nooks and
crannies around the joint hardware.
15. (Sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc) 4 times. (28 sc)
16. (Sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc) 4 times. (24 sc)
17. Sc in ea sc around. (24 sc)
IF DISK JOINTING: Counting on WS with front of cat toward you, head down, and
beginning after the last sc made, count 6 stitches to the left (your left); place a marker at
this point between the last two rows. Count 5 stitches to the right, beginning with last sc
made, and do the same. These are your leg placement markers.
18. (Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 6 times. (18 sc)
ATTACH LEGS (If disk jointing):
Right Leg: Insert the joint pin for the right leg into the hip, between stitches, one row
above the leg marker. Reach in and place a disk onto the pin, use the pliers to curl the pin
legs under, same as for head and arms.
19. (Sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc) 3 times. (15 sc)
Left Leg: Insert the joint pin for the right leg into the hip, between stitches, in the same
place as the leg marker. Reach in and place a disk onto the pin, use the pliers to curl the
pin legs under, same as for head and arms.
• Stuff the rest of the body to this point. Keep in mind that the cat’s body is designed to
be wider from front to back than from side to side, so that the limbs won’t appear to be
sticking out unattractively where they are jointed to the body. Pay close attention to
stuffing around the leg joints with small pieces. Inadequate stuffing in that area can
result in loose leg joints. Note that there is a little pot belly in the front. Keep in mind
that the bear’s body is designed to be narrow, so that the limbs won’t appear to be
sticking out unattractively where they are jointed to the body.
20. If you have difficulty reaching the sc behind the left leg disk, use a pin to reach
behind the disk and gently pull the stitch up above the disk where you can get to it.
(Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 5 times. (10 sc)
• Add more stuffing
21. Sc2tog 5 times; FO with sl st in next sc, leaving long end for closing bottom. (6 sc)
• Finish stuffing.
• Thread long end on needle, then sew a row of gathering stitches in and out of the front
lps of row 21; pull to gather and close. Insert the needle into the body and out elsewhere
on body. Insert needle into exact spot where you just brought it out, and then bring
needle out again at a different place on opposite side of body. This will secure the thread.
Clip the thread close to body so that the end disappears inside body.
ATTACH ARMS USING THREAD JOINTING METHOD: Insert a straight pin
through each arm at the place where the joint will be, in order to experiment and find the
correct placement. After you’ve decided where the arms will be placed, mark the entry
point for the joint on each side. Thread a 2½-inch needle with upholstery or other strong
thread in a color to match the bear; double but do not knot the end. Insert needle into 1st
shoulder; push needle through body and bring out at 2nd shoulder. Pull thread through,
leaving a 3-inch tail protruding from the 1st shoulder. Insert the needle back into the bear
one round below the exit point, push through the bear, and bring it back out one round
below the spot where the tail is protruding. Insert the needle back into the exact place
from which the tail protrudes, then push it through the body and back out the top of the
stitch on the opposite side. *Insert needle into the arm from the inside and push through
to outside of arm. Insert needle back into arm in same place where it came out, dipping
the tip of the needle downward and then back up to catch some stuffing as the needle
passes through the arm; bring it out inside of the arm in the exact spot where it went in.
Insert the needle back into the body in the same place where the thread is protruding,
push it back through the body**, and out the same place where the tail protrudes on the
opposite side. Repeat from * to ** for the other arm, this time bringing the needle out
just in front of the top of the 1st arm. Pull the needle to tighten the arm thread and pull
the arms firmly against the body. Clip the thread, leaving a 3-inch tail. Tie off the two
ends of the tail using a surgeon’s knot, then thread the tail back onto the needle and pull it
through the body, thus hiding the ends inside the body. Clip the ends close to the surface
so that they disappear into the body. Tie off the first tail in the same way.
ATTACH LEGS USING THREAD JOINTING METHOD:
First use pins to experiment and find the placement for the legs; mark the entry point for
the joints on each side. Thread a 2½-inch needle with upholstery or other strong thread in
a color to match the bear; double but do not knot the end. Insert needle into 1st hip; push
needle through body and bring out at 2nd hip. Pull thread through, leaving a 3-inch tail
protruding from the 1st hip. Insert the needle back into the bear one round above the exit
point, push through the bear, and bring it back out one round above the spot where the
tail is protruding. Insert the needle back into the exact place from which the tail
protrudes, then push it through the body and back out the bottom of the stitch on the
opposite side. *Insert needle into the leg from the inside and push through to outside.
Insert needle back into leg in same place where it came out, dipping the tip of the needle
downward and then back up to catch some stuffing as you pass through the leg, and bring
it out inside of the leg in the exact spot where it went in. Insert the needle back into the
body in the same place where the thread is protruding, push it back through the body**,
and out the same place where the tail protrudes. Repeat from * to ** for the other leg,
this time bringing the needle out just in front of the top of the 1st leg. Pull the needle to
tighten the leg thread and pull the legs firmly against the body. Clip the thread, leaving a
3-inch tail. Tie off the two ends of the tail using a surgeon’s knot, then thread the tail
back onto the needle and pull it through the body, thus hiding the ends inside the body.
Clip the ends close to the surface so that they disappear into the body. Tie off the first
tail in the same way.
TAIL:
1. Ch 2 with cat color, 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook; do not join, place marker. (3 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea sc around. (6 sc)
3 – 4. Sc in ea sc around. (6 sc)
• Cut a 6″ (15cm) piece of chenille stem. Turn one end under ¼ ” (6mm) and crimp it
against the stem. Insert the crimped end into the tail. You will crochet around the stem
from here on.
5. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc. (7 sc)
6 – 8. Sc in ea sc around. (7 sc)
9. Sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc. (8 sc)
10 – 28. Sc in ea sc around. (8 sc)
29. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) twice. (10)
30. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc) twice. (12)
• Brush up and trim the tail.
• Clip the part of the chenille stem that is protruding past the edge of the tail opening to
a length of 1/4″ (6mm). Trim the chenille from the exposed part of the stem.
• With the cat seated on a flat surface, determine where the tail should be attached
(centered on the lower back). The bottom edge of the tail should be just above the
surface on which the cat is sitting. Mark the spot, and then insert a tapestry needle into
the spot to create a path for the stem wire. Insert the tail wire into the prepared place
and push it in until the edge of the tail is flush with the body. Pin the tail in place, and
then sew to cat with matching thread.
DRESS:
LIST OF MATERIALS:
• Size 10 crochet thread, about 50 yards of MC (Main Color) and 10 yards of AC
(Accent Color)
• Size 5 crochet hook (1.9mm)
• 14 inch length (35.5cm) of ribbon in same color as AC, ¼” (6mm) wide
• Three ¼” (6mm) buttons, white or to match dress
• Small ribbon rose similar in color to AC
• Sewing needle, blunt tapestry needle, milliner’s needle (or other needle for
weaving thread ends)
BODICE:
Important: Work all rows of bodice in BL.
1. Ch 9 with MC, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 7 ch, ch 1, turn. ( 8 sc)
2 – 4. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (8 sc)
5. Sc in ea sc across, ch 6; turn. (8 sc, 6 ch)
6. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 4 ch, sc in next 8 sc; ch 1, turn. (13 sc)
7 – 8. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (13 sc)
9 – 12. Sc in next 4 sc; ch 1, turn. (4 sc)
13. Sc in next 4 sc; ch 10, turn. (4 sc, 10 ch)
14. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 8 ch, sc in next 4 sc; ch 1, turn. (13 sc)
15 – 16. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (13 sc)
17. Sc in next 8 sc, do not work rem sc; ch 1, turn. (8 sc)
18 – 24. Sc in ea sc across. (8 sc)
25. Sc in next 8 sc, ch 6; turn. (8 sc, 6 ch)
26. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 4 ch, sc in next 8 sc; ch 1, turn. (13 sc)
27 – 28. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (13 sc)
29 – 32. Sc in next 4 sc; ch 1, turn. (4 sc)
33. Sc in next 4 sc, ch 10; turn. (4 sc, 10 ch)
34. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 8 ch, sc in next 4 sc; ch 1, turn. (13 sc)
35 – 36. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (13 sc)
37. Sc in next 8 sc, ch 1, turn. (8 sc)
38 – 40. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (8 sc)
41. Sc in ea sc across; FO. (8 sc)
• Row 41 is RS. With RS together, sew shoulder seams.
SKIRT:
1. Working across bottom of bodice in ends of rows with RS facing, join MC with sc in
1st row end, sc in next row end and in ea row end across; ch 3, turn. (41 sc)
2. (Turning ch-3 counts as sc and ch-1.) Working in FL, sk first two sc, hdc in next hdc,
(ch 1, sk next sc, hdc in next sc) across; ch 3, turn. (20 ch-1 sp)
3. Working in BL, dc in same pl as turning, (3 dc in ch, 2 dc in next sc) across; ch 1,
turn. (102 dc)
4. Sc in 1st dc, (ch 2, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc) across, ending with ch 2, sk next sc, sc in top
of ch-3; join with sl st in 1st sc; ch 3, turn. (34 ch-2 sp)
5. (Sc in next ch-2 sp, 3 dc in next sc) 32 times around to last ch-2 sp, sc in last ch-2 sp,
2 dc in last sc; join with sl st in top of beg ch-3; ch 1, do not turn. (33 3-dc shells)
6. Ch 1, sc in same pl as joining, (ch 1, sk next dc, sc in next sc, ch 1, sk next dc, sc in
next dc) around, ending with ch 1; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 3, do not turn. (68 ch-1 sp)
7. Dc in ea sc and ch-1 sp around; join with sl st in top of beg ch-3, FO. (136 dc)
8. Working in BL, join AC with sc in 1st dc at center back of skirt edge, (sk next sc, 5
hdc in next sc, sk next sc, sc in next sc) around to last 3 sc, sk next sc, 5 dc in next sc, sk
next sc ; join with sl st in 1st sc, FO. (34 5-hdc shells)
BODICE TRIM AND BUTTONHOLES:
1. With RS facing, join MC with sl st in center bottom of back opening, between left and
right sides; working up the left edge, sc in next row end, 2 sc in next row end, sl st in next
2 ch (end of eyelet row), sc in next row end, sc in next 8 sc to top edge (12 sc, 3 sl st);
turn corner and sc in side of last sc made, sc in next 3 row ends, sc2tog over next 2 row
ends (5 sc); turn corner and sc2tog over next 2 sc of back left shoulder, sc in next 3 sc to
shoulder seam, sc in next 3 free lps of front left shoulder, sc2tog (8 sc); turn corner and
sc2tog over next 2 row ends of front, sc in next 5 row ends across front, sc2tog over next
2 row ends (7 sc); turn corner and sc2tog over next 2 sc of front right shoulder, sc in next
3 sc to shoulder seam, sc in next 3 free lps of back right shoulder, sc2tog (8 sc); turn
corner and sc2tog over next 2 row ends of top of right back, sc in next 3 row ends, sc in
end of foundation ch (5 sc); turn corner and working down right back edge, ch 2, sk next
row end and next free lp, sc in next 2 free lps, ch 2, sk next free lp, sc in next 2 free lps,
ch 2, sk next free lp, sc in next free lp, sc in next row end, sl st in next 2 ch (end of eyelet
row), 2 sc in next row end, sc in next row end; join with sl st in 1st sl st; FO (3
buttonholes, 9 sc, 3 sl st).
COLLAR:
1. With RS facing and working in BL, join AC with sc in 1st sc at left back edge, sc in
next 4 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc across shoulder, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog, sc in next
5 sc across shoulder, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc; ch 3, turn. (29 sc)
2. Working in BL, dc in same pl as turning, dc in next 2 sc, 2 dc in ea of next 4 sc, dc in
next 2 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 4 sc, dc in next 3 sc, 2 dc in ea of next 4 sc, dc in next 2 sc, 2
dc in ea of next 4 sc, dc in next 2 sc, 2 dc in next sc; ch 2, turn. (47 dc)
3. Working in FL, sk 1st dc, (sl st in next dc, ch 2, sk next dc) around; FO. (23 ch-2 lps)
RIGHT SLEEVE:
1. With RS facing, join AC with sc in the 1st sc at the bottom of the back edge of arm
opening, sc in next 2 sc, 2 hdc in next sc, hdc in next sc, dc in same pl, 2 dc in ea of next
4 sc, 2 dc in ea of next 4 free lps down front edge, dc in next free lp, hdc in same pl, 2
hdc in next free lp, sc in next 3 free lps, sc in next 5 row ends across bottom of arm hole;
join with sl st in 1st sc, FO. (11 sc, 6 hdc, 18 dc)
LEFT SLEEVE:
1. With RS facing, join AC with sc in the 1st row end at underarm of left arm hole, sc in
next 4 row ends, sc in next 3 sc up front edge, 2 hdc in next sc, hdc in next sc, dc in same
pl, 2 dc in ea of next 4 sc, 2 dc in ea of next 4 free lps down back edge, dc in next free lp,
hdc in same pl, 2 hdc in next free lp, sc in next 3 free lps; join with sl st in 1st sc, FO. (10
sc, 6 hdc, 18 dc)
FINISH:
• If you wish, you can embellish the collar with some simple embroidery
• Sew buttons to the left back of the bodice opposite the ch-2 button holes.
• Sew a ribbon rose to the front of the bodice, off-center above the waist.
• Thread the ribbon onto a tapestry needle and weave it through the eyelets created by
the ch-2 spaces on round 3 from one side of the back around to the opposite side.
After the dress is on the cat, tie the ends into a bow at the back.
