Below you’ll find the full step-by-step instructions to crochet this no-sew mini dragon amigurumi.

🧸 Tummy Panel

Worked in rows using cream-colored yarn.

R1: Ch 6, starting in the second ch from hook, 5 sc (5)
R2–7: 5 sc, ch 1, turn (5)
R8: dec, sc, dec (3)

Leave a long tail and sew the panel to the front of the body.

🐾 Arms & Legs (Make 4)

R1: 6 sc in a magic ring (6)
R2–4: sc in all 6 sts (6)

Fasten off, leave a tail, lightly stuff if desired, and sew to the sides of the body.

🪽 Wings (Make 2)

R1: Ch 2, 2 sc in second ch from hook (2)
R2: Ch 1, inc x2, turn (4)
R3: Ch 1, inc, 2 sc, inc, turn (6)
R4: (sl st, 3 dc in next st, sl st) repeat across

Sew the wings to the back of the body.

🐉 Tail

R1: 4 sc in a magic ring (4)
R2: (sc, inc) x2 (6)
R3: (2 sc, inc) x2 (8)
R4: (3 sc, inc) x2 (10)
R5: (4 sc, inc) x2 (12)

Stuff lightly and sew to the back of the body.

🔺 Back Spikes (Make 5–6)

R1: 4 sc in a magic ring (4)
R2: (sc, inc) x2 (6)
R3: (2 sc, inc) x2 (8)

Sew 2 spikes to the top of the head and 3–4 along the tail.

Materials:
Approx 35g double knitting weight yarn, of whichever colour or
colours you wish to use for your dragon.
Small amount of cream/beige yarn to sew claws.
Stuffing.
1 pair 7.5 mm safety eyes or beads of a similar size for eyes (or you
can embroider the eyes, so a small amount of yarn to do that).
Tapestry needle.
3.5mm hook (US E hook).
Finished size: approximately 28cm/11” nose to tip of tail, 20cm/8″
wingspan.
Abbreviations:
ch = chain
st = stitch or stitches
ss = slip stitch
sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (UK)
hdc = half double crochet (US), half treble crochet (UK)
dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (UK)
fpsc = front post single crochet
fphdc = front post half double crochet
fpdc = front post double crochet
tog = together
sc2tog = decrease by working two sc together
YOH = Yarn over hook
FO = fasten off
Special stitch instructions:
Fpsc, fphdc or fpdc: work stitch (sc, hdc or dc) by putting your hook
from right to left around the back of the post of the next stitch on
the previous row. This will create a ridge on the other side of your
work.
Notes:
This dragon is made mostly in rounds, although the wings are made
in rows. Do not join rounds unless told to, use a stitch marker to
mark the start of a round – a small piece of different coloured yarn
placed under the stitch at the start of the round will do. To start a
round, you can use the magic ring method, but I prefer (ch2, work
6 sc into 1st ch). If you work the 6 sc over the tail of yarn as well
you can use that to pull the hole tight.
Stuff the body as you go along, not too tightly so that the dragon
can bend its neck and tail.

Fierce Little Dragon Amigurumi Pattern

Nostrils (make 2):
Ch2, work 8 sc into 1st ch, join round with a ss into the first sc – 8
st.
FO one of them leaving a length of yarn.
Do not FO the second nostril. To join them together sc into the 1st
stitch after the ss on the first nostril, sc into next 7 st. Sc into the
1st stitch after the ss on the second nostril, sc into next 7 st. You
now have the start of the nose with 16 st. Use the length of yarn to
sew up the gap between the two parts.

Body (continue from nose):
Round 1: Sc in each st around – 16 st.
Round 2: [Sc2tog, sc in next 6 st] 2 times – 14 st.
Round 3: Sc in each st around – 14 st.
Round 4: [Sc2tog, sc in next 5 st] 2 times – 12 st.
Round 5 – 6: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 12 st.
Round 7: Sc in next 5 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next
st, sc in next 4 st – 14 st.
Round 8 – 10: (3 rounds) Sc in each st around – 14 st.
If using safety eyes, fit now between round 8 and 9 on either side
of the head.
Round 11: Sc in next 6 st, sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog, sc in next
3 st – 12 st.
Round 12: Sc in next st, sc2tog, sc in next 4 st, sc2tog, sc in next
3 st – 10 st.
Round 13 – 17: (5 rounds) Sc in each st around – 10 st.
Round 18: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st] 2 times – 12 st.
Round 19 – 20: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 12 st.
Round 21: Sc in next 3 st, [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times,
sc in next 3 st – 15 st.
Round 22: Sc in next 3 st, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] 3 times,
sc in next 3 st – 18 st.
Round 23: Sc in each st around – 18 st.
Round 24: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] 6 times – 24 st.
Round 25 – 26: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 24 st.
Round 27: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st] 4 times – 28 st.
Round 28 – 31: (4 rounds) Sc in each st around – 28 st.
Round 32: [Sc2tog, sc in next 5 st] 4 times – 24 st.
Round 33: Sc in each st around – 24 st.
Round 34: [Sc2tog, sc in next 4 st] 4 times – 20 st.
Round 35: Sc in each st around – 20 st.
Round 36: [Sc2tog, sc in next 3 st] 4 times – 16 st.
Round 37: Sc in each st around – 16 st.
Round 38: [Sc2tog, sc in next 6 st] 2 times – 14 st.
Round 39: Sc in each st around – 14 st.
Round 40: [Sc2tog, sc in next 5 st] 2 times – 12 st.
Round 41 – 50: (10 rounds) Sc in each st around – 12 st.
Round 51: Sc2tog, sc in next 10 st – 11 st.
Round 52 – 53: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 11 st.
Round 54: Sc2tog, sc in next 9 st – 10 st.
Round 55 – 56: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 10 st.
Round 57: Sc2tog, sc in next 8 st – 9 st.
Round 58 – 59: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 9 st.
Round 60: Sc2tog, sc in next 7 st – 8 st.
Round 61 – 63: (3 rounds) Sc in each st around – 8 st.
Round 64: Sc2tog, sc in next 6 st – 7 st.
Round 65 – 73: (9 rounds) Sc in each st around – 7 st.
Round 74: Sc2tog, sc in next 5 st – 6 st.
Round 75 – 76: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 6 st.
FO, finish stuffing and sew up end of tail.

Back Legs (make 2):
Stuff as you go along.
Round 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc into 1st ch – 6 st.
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around – 12 st.
Round 3 – 5: (3 rounds) Sc in each st around – 12 st.
Round 6: Sc in next 6 st, [sc2tog] 3 times – 9 st.
Round 7 – 8: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 9 st.
Round 9: Sc in next 6 st, [2 sc in next st] 3 times – 12 st.
Round 10: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 6 times – 18 st.
Round 11 – 12: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 18 st.
Round 13: Sc in next 3 st, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in next 5 st,
[sc2tog] 2 times, sc in next 2 st – 14 st.
Round 14: Sc in next 2 st, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in next 3 st,
[sc2tog] 2 times, sc in next st – 10 st.
Round 15: [Sc2tog] 5 times – 5 st.
FO, leaving a length of yarn.
Finish stuffing, then use cream/beige yarn to sew claws. Sew up top
of leg.
Front Legs (make 2):
Stuff as you go along.
Round 1: Ch 2, work 5 sc into 1st ch – 5 st.
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around – 10 st.
Round 3 – 5: (3 rounds) Sc in each st around – 10 st.
Round 6: Sc in next 6 st, [sc2tog] 2 times – 8 st.
Round 7 – 12: (6 rounds) Sc in each st around – 8 st.
Round 13: [Sc2tog, sc in next 2 st] 2 times – 6 st.
FO, leaving a length of yarn.
Finish stuffing, then use cream/beige yarn to sew claws. Sew up top
of leg.
Spikes on back:
Small – ch 3, sc into 2nd ch from hook, hdc into 3rd ch from hook,
ch1.
Large – ch 3, sc into 2nd ch from hook, YOH, hook into next ch, YOH
and pull through st, YOH, pull through 2 loops, YOH, into same st,
YOH and pull through st, YOH and through all loops on hook, ch1.
You make the spikes continuously.
Work 3 small, 10 large, 3 small, ch 2, sc into 2nd ch from hook, ch
1, FO. Leave a length of yarn to sew to the body. Depending on the
length of your dragon you may need to adjust the number of spikes
you make to fit along your dragon’s back from behind the eyes to
the tip of the tail.

Wings (make 2):
Ch 20.
Row 1: Miss 1st ch, sc in next 7 ch, hdc in next 6 ch, dc in next 6
ch, ch 2, turn.
Row 2: Fpdc in next 6 st, fphdc in next 6 st, fpsc in next 7 st, ch 1,
turn.
Row 3: Fpsc in next 7 st, hdc in next 6 st, dc in next 6 st, ch 3,
turn.
Row 4: Miss 1st ch, ss in next ch, sc in next ch (to make claws),
fpdc in next 6 st, fphdc in next 6 st, fpsc in next 7 st, ch 1, turn.
Row 5: Fpsc in next 7 st, hdc in next 6 st, dc in next 6 st, ch 2,
turn.
Row 6: Fpdc in next 6 st, fphdc in next 6 st, fpsc in next 7 st, ch 1,
turn.
Row 7: Fpsc in next 7 st, hdc in next 6 st, dc in next 6 st, ch 3,
turn.
Row 8: Miss 1st ch, ss in next ch, sc in next ch, fpdc in next 6 st,
fphdc in next 6 st, fpsc in next 7 st, ch 1, turn.
Row 9: Fpsc in next 7 st, hdc in next 6 st, dc in next 6 st, ch 2,
turn.
Row 10: Fpdc in next 6 st, fphdc in next 6 st, fpsc in next 7 st, ch
1, turn.
Row 11: Fpsc in next 7 st, hdc in next 6 st, dc in next 6 st, ch 3,
turn.
Row 12: Miss 1st ch, ss in next ch, sc in next ch, fpdc in next 6 st,
fphdc in next 6 st, fpsc in next 7 st.
Sc into every other row along the base of the wing – 6 st.
Ss along the back of the original ch (19 st) until you get to the tip of
the wing. Make claw – ch 3, turn, miss 1st ch, ss in next ch, sc in
next ch. FO leaving a good length of yarn. Use this to secure the
last claw to the rest of the wing, then take yarn through wing to its
base, ready to sew onto body. Weave in ends.

Ears (make 2):
Ch 6, turn.
Skip 1st st, sc, dc, sc, ss. Leave the last ch and ss into the back of
the previous 4 st. FO, leaving a length of yarn.
Completing your dragon:

All the body parts ready to be assembled – the wing on the left shows the
top and the wing on the right shows the ridged underside.
Sew the spikes along the back from just behind the ears to the tip
of the tail. Take your time to make sure they are straight and in the
exact middle of the back. This will be helpful when you try to
position the wings and the legs.
If you haven’t used safety eyes, embroider eyes or sew on beads
for eyes. Embroider a roughly diamond shape in a contrasting
colour, then use black for the pupils so they look a bit like cat’s
eyes.
Sew the ears onto head above eyes, going over the last chain
several times to create the brow bone shape. Weave in any ends

Sew the legs on in the positions shown.
Sew on the wings a little distance from either side of the spikes with
the front edge about level with the front legs. The ridged side
should be the underside of the wings.

Your fierce little dragon is all finished now!
Pattern copyright Lucy Collin 2011. All rights reserved. This is a free
pattern of my design so share as you like, but do not sell it. If you
sell products made from this pattern, please credit Lucy
Collin/LucyRavenscar as the designer.

Amigurumi Crochet Dragon Chico Free Pattern

CABEZA

Se utiliza el gancho del 31/2

En Verde Limón

Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)

Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp)

Hilera 3.-*1mp,1aum* repetir en todo (18mp)

Hilera 4.-*2mp,1aum* repetir en todo (24mp)

Hilera 5.-*3mp,1aum* repetir en todo (30mp)

Hilera 6.-*4mp,1aum* repetir en todo (36mp)

Hilera 7 a la 12.-Se tejen los (36mp)

Hilera 13.-*4mp,1dism* repetir en todo (30mp)

Hilera 14.-*3mp,1dism* repetir en todo (24mp)

Hilera 15.-*2mp,1dism* repetir en todo (18mp)

RELLENAR

Hilera 16.-*1mp,1dism* repetir en todo (12mp)

HOCICO

En Verde Limón

Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)

Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp)

Hilera 3.-*1mp,1aum* repetir en todo (18mp)

Hilera 4.-*2mp,1aum* repetir en todo (24mp)

Hilera 5 a la 9.-Se tejen los (24mp)

Hilera 10.-*2mp,1dism* repetir en todo (18mp)

RELLENAR

Hilera 11.-*1mp, 1dism* repetir en todo (12mp)

En la abertura que quedo la cabeza coloca el hocico y coserlo.

BRAZOS (X2)

En verde Limón

Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)

Hilera 2.-*1mp,1aum*repetir en todo (9mp)

Hilera 3 a la 12.-Se tejen los (9mp)

PICOS (X5)

Se hacen de colores

Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)

Hilera 2.-*1mp,1aum*repetir en todo (9mp)

Hilera 3.-*2mp,1aum*repetir en todo (12mp)

Hilera 4.-*3mp,1aum*repetir en todo (15mp)

Hilera 5.-Se tejen los (15mp)

OJOS (X2)

En blanco

Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)

Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp)

Hilera 3.-*3mp,1aum* repetir en todo (15mp)

En verde Limón

Hilera 4 y 5.-Se tejen los (15mp)

Hilera 6.-*3mp,1 dism*repetir en todo (12mp)

Rellenar

Hilera 7.-6 disminuciones (6mp)

IRIS (x2)

En anaranjado

Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (5mp)

Hilera 2.-5 aumentos (10mp)

PUPILA (X2)

En negro

Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado de (4mp)

OREJAS (X2)

En verde Limón

Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)

ALETAS DE LA NARIZ (X2)

En Verde Limón

Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)

Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp)

CUERPO

Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)

Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp)

Hilera 3.-*1mp,1aum* repetir en todo (18mp)

Hilera 4.-*2mp,1aum* repetir en todo (24mp)

Hilera 5.-*3mp,1aum* repetir en todo (30mp)

Hilera 6.-*4mp,1aum* repetir en todo (36mp)

Hilera 7 a la 10.-Se tejen los (36mp)

Hilera 11.-*4mp,1dism*repetir en todo (30mp)

Hilera 12 y 13.-Se tejen los (30mp)

Hilera 14.-*3mp,1dism*repetir en todo (24mp)

Hilera 15 y 16.-Se tejen los (24mp)

Hilera 17.-*2mp,1dism*repetir en todo (18mp)

RELLENAR

Hilera 18.-*1mp,1dism*repetir en todo (12mp)

COLA

En Verde Limón

Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)

Hilera 2.-*1mp,1aum* repetir en todo (9mp)

Hilera 3.-Se tejen los (9mp)

Hilera 4.-*2mp,1aum* repetir en todo (12mp)

Hilera 5.-Se tejen los (12mp)

Hilera 6.-*3mp,1aum* repetir en todo (15mp)

Hilera 7.-*4mp,1aum* repetir en todo (18mp)

Hilera 8.-*5mp,1aum* repetir en todo (21mp)

Hilera 9.-*6mp,1aum* repetir en todo (24mp)

Hilera10.-*7mp,1aum* repetir en todo (27mp)

Hilera11.-*6mp,1aum* repetir en todo (30mp)

PATAS TRASERAS (x2)

En verde Limón

Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)

Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp)

Hilera 3.-*1mp,1aum*repetir en todo (18mp)

Hilera 4 a la 7.-Se tejen los (18mp)

Hilera 8.-*1mp,1dism* repetir en todo (12mp)

Hilera 9.- Se tejen los (12mp)

Hilera10.-*2mp,1dism*repetir en todo (9mp)

Hilera11 a la 14.-Se tejen los (9mp)

PIES(X2)

En Verde Limón

Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)

Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp)

Hilera 3.-*1mp,1aum*repetir en todo (18mp)

Hilera 4.-*2mp,1aum*repetir en todo (24mp)

Hilera 5 a la 6.-Se tejen los (24mp)

Hilera 7.-*2mp,1dism*repetir en todo  (18mp)

Hilera 8.-*1mp,1dism*repetir en todo (12mp)

Hilera 9.-Se tejen los (12mp)

Hilera10.-*2mp,1dism*repetir en todo (9mp)

Hilera 11 y 12.-Se tejen los (9mp)

VIENTRE

En amarillo

Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)

Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp)

Hilera 3.-*1mp,1aum* repetir en todo (18mp)

Hilera 4.-*2mp,1aum* repetir en todo (24mp)

Trabajar x filas

F1.-Se hacen 5mp

F2 hasta donde llegue su cuello y terminado se hace 1mp en todo alrededor.

Amigurumi Dragons Pictures:

Snakes Dragon is a permanent hero of almost all Russian fairy Tales. Our ancestors endowed him with very different qualities, but, most importantly, in the serpent-power, thirst for power and craving for Wealth. and also agility, ability to negotiate and quickness. hence, if you want to have a headed snake gorynych, and together with him luck, financial well-being and confidence, stock quickly headed Dragon.
Materials:
Yarn of 2 main colors:

Red about 100 g (300 m on 100 g)
-orange approx. 20 g (300 m ten 100 g)
-white and brown-a little
-a Hook under your threads
-needle for sewing and embroidery
a little wire in the hands and ribs wings
-running eyes (if they are not, we will tie them and embroider)
Legend:
Prs-column without a throw
Vp-air Loop
Ss-connecting column
Raise – 2 PRs in one loop
Decrease – 2 PRs to knit together

Amigurumi Snakes Dragon Free Pattern

Head (3 parts)
Rejection.
1 Row: 6 prs in Amigurumi ring (6)
2 Row: raise-6 Times (12)
3 Row: (1 prs, Raise) – 6 times (18)
4-9 series: 18 PRS
10 row: (decrease, 2 prs) -2 times, decrease, 8 PRS (15)
11 Row: 15 PRS
12 row: (decrease, 1 prs) -2 times, decrease, 7 PRS (12)
13 Row: raise-6 times, 6 prs (18)
14 Row: 2 prs, (raise) -3 times, 2 prs, (increase) -3 times, 8 prs (24), form the Forehead.
15-19 rows: 24 prs, fill with Filling.
20 Row: (2 prs, Decrease) – 6 times (18)
21 Row: (1 prs, decrease) -6 times (12), to beat to the End.
22 Row: Decrease – 6 times
A hole to pull, a thread to fasten, to cut and to hide.

Ears (6 parts)
Rejection.
Dial 2 vp, knit in the 2-nd loop from the Hook.
1 row: 2 prs, VP for lifting, turn knitting and knit in the opposite direction (back and forth).
2 row: raise-2 times, EAP for lifting, turning (4)
3 row: raise, 2 prs, raise, VP for lifting, turn (6)
4 row: 6 prs, VP for lifting, Turn.
5 row: decrease, 2 prs, Decrease
next, tie the part around the perimeter, tying on the corners of 3 prs. Fasten the thread, leave the end for sewing, Trim.
Nostrils (6 parts)
Rejection.
Dial 2 vp.
1 row: in the 2nd loop from the hook to Knit 5 prs, the EAP for lifting, turn and knit in the opposite Direction.
2 Row: 5 PRS
Fasten the thread, leave the end for sewing, Trim.
Eyebrows (6 Parts)
Brown.
Tie a chain of 4 vp, leave the end for sewing, thread fasten and trim.
Sew to the head ears and nostrils. Try and glue the eyes, sew the eyebrows.

Neck (3 Parts)
Rejection.
1 Row: 6 prs in Amigurumi ring (6)
2 Row: raise-6 Times (12)
3 Row: 12 PRs behind the back Polupetlju
From now on, knitting with a marker.
4 Row: 4 ss, 8 PRS (12)
5 Row: 12 PRS
6 Row: 1 prs, 4ss, 7 PRS (12)
7 Row: 12 PRS
8 Row: 2 prs, 4ss, 6 prs (12)
9-14 series: 12 PRS
Knit 3 PRS to align the knitting. and Knit On.
15 Row: raise, 3 prs, raise, 7 PRS (14)
16-17 series: 14 PRS
18 Row: 1 prs, (raise, 2 prs) -2 times, raise, 6 prs (17)
19-21 rows: 17 PRS
22 Row: 4 prs, raise, 5 prs, raise, 6 prs (19)
23-26 rows: 19 PRS
27 Row: 5 prs, (raise, 2 prs) -2 times, raise, 7 PRS (22)
28-32 series: 22 PRS
33 Series: 9 prs, raise, 3 prs, increase, 8 PRS (24)
You can remove the Marker.
34-45 Rows: 24 PRS
46 Series: (5 prs, Raise) – 4 times (28)
47-50 Series: 28 PRS
Fasten the thread, leave the end for sewing, Trim.

Torso (1 Piece)
Rejection.
1 Row: 6 prs in Amigurumi ring (6)
2 Row: raise-6 Times (12)
3 Row: (1 prs, Raise) – 6 times (18)
4 Row: (2 prs, Raise) – 6 times (24)
5 Row: (3 prs, Raise) – 6 times (30)
6 Row: (4 prs, Raise) – 6 times (36)
7 Row: (5 prs, Raise) – 6 times (42)
8 Row: (6 prs, Raise) – 6 times (48)
9 Row: (7 prs, Raise) – 6 times (54)
10 Row: (8 prs, Raise) – 6 times (60)
11-21 series: 60 PRS
22 Row: (8 prs, Decrease) – 6 times (54)
23-24 Series: 54 PRS
25 Series: (7 prs, Decrease) – 6 times (48)
26-27 series: 48 PRS
28 Row: (6 prs, Decrease) – 6 times (42)
29-30 Series: 42 PRS
31 Row: (5sbn, Decrease) – 6 times (36)
32-34 series: 36 PRS
35 Series: (4sbn, Decrease) – 6 times (30)
36-40 Series: 30 PRS
41 Series: (3 prs, Decrease) – 6 times (24)
Filla.
42-47 Rows: 24 PRS
48 series: (4 prs, decrease) -4 times (20)
49-55 series: 20 PRS
56 series: (3 prs, decrease) -4 times (16)
57-61 series: 16 PRS
62 series: (2 prs, decrease) -4 times (12)
63-68 rows: 12 prs, Fill the filling to the End.
69 series: (1 prs, decrease) -4 times (8)
70-71 Series: 8 PRS
Fasten and trim the THREAD.

More Amigurumi Dragon Ideas:

We will need:

-Main and additional color yarn, as well as a little black. White and blue for the eyes;
Hook
Filler
Needle and scissors.
Reduce:
PRS-Column without a throw
P-Raise
U-Decrease
VP-Air Loop
SS-Connecting Column
PRSPs-Needle with Crochets
SSS-Column with Crochets
RSBN-relief column without a throw

Amigurumi Sweet Dragon Free Pattern

Head.
The foreground color.

Tie a chain of 6VP.

1: Starting from the second of the hook loops 4SBN, 3SBN in the last loop chain, continue knitting around the chain. 3SBN, 2SBN in the last Loop (12)
2:1 P, 3SBN, 3p, 3SBN, 2p (18)
3:1 PRS, 1p, 4SBN, 1p, 1SBN, 1p, 1SBN, 1p, 4SBN, 1p, 1SBN, 1p (24)
4:2 PRS, 1p, 5SBN, (1p, 2SBN)-2 times, 1p, 5SBN, 1p, 2SBN, 1p (30)
5:3 PRS, 1p, 6SBN, (1p, 3SBN)-2 times, 1p, 6SBN, 1p, 3SBN, 1p (36)
6:4 PRS, 1p, 7SBN, (1p, 4SBN)-2 times, 1p, 7SBN, 1p, 4SBN, 1p (42)
7-14:42 PRS (42)
15:4 PRS, 11p, 27SBN (53)
16:14 PRs, 1p, 38 PRS (54)
17:40 prs, 8VP, skip 8 loops, 6SBN (54)
18:54 PRS, including using the 8VP of the previous series (54)
19-23:54 PRS (54)
24: (1u, 7SBN)-6 times (48)
25:48 PRS (48)
26: (1u, 6SBN)-6 times (42)
27:42 PRS (42)
28: (1u, 5SBN)-6 times (36)
29: (1u, 4SBN)-6 times (30)
30: (1u, 3SBN)-6 times (24)
31: (1u, 2SBN)-6 times (18)

Fill your head well, giving it a shape.

32: (1u, 1SBN)-6 times (12)
33:6u (6)

Finish the knitting, cut off the thread, leaving the long end.

Now let’s make a Utjazhku face (well or muzzle) Dragon. Utjazhka will be easy. We’re just going to make our dragon smile.

That’s how the head should look before utjazhki.
Thread in the needle (the thread that knitted the head).
Place 4 pins on the head, indicating the places where the Utjazhka will be made: 2 for the eyes and 2 for the tips of the mouth, which we will do.
We begin to utjazhku from the end of knitting. Enter the needle inside and put it in the place where we marked the left eye. Place the needle again inside the head through one loop and take out in the left corner of the mouth. Slightly slide the thread. Once again through one loop enter the needle and put in place of the right eye, slide thread. Further to the right corner of the mouth and to the end of the knitting (back of the head). In such a sequence make utjazhku, forcing Dragon to smile.
Then hide and cut the thread.

Dragon Mouth.
Eyes-2 details.Start knitting with black yarn for the pupil.
1:6 PRS in Amigurumi Ring (6)
2:6 P (12)
Change the yarn to create the iris of the eye.
3:1 SS, 1p, 2p of PRSPs, 1p, 1СС, finish knitting.

Increase the white lines or points on each pupil.
Glue your eyes to the head or sew.

Ears-2 details.The foreground color.
A chain of 4VP.
1 2SBN, 3SBN in the last loop of the chain, tie around the chain, 2SBN (7)
2:1 VP, turn knitting, 2SBN, 1p, 1p of PRSs, 1p, 2SBN (10)
Finish the knitting, leaving a long end for the stitching.

Nostrils-2 details.The foreground color.
1:6 PRS in Amigurumi Ring (6)
2:2 P (12)
3:12 PRS (12)
Finish the knitting, leaving a long end for the stitching.

Horns-2 parts.Additional color.
1:4 PRS in Amigurumi ring (4)
2: (1p, 1SBN)-2 times (6)
3-4:6 PRS (6)
Finish the knitting, leaving a long end for the stitching.
Fill in the details a bit.

Legs-2 details.The foreground color.
A chain of 6VP.
1: Starting from the second of the hook loops 4SBN, 3SBN in the last loop chain, continue knitting around the chain. 3SBN, 2SBN in the last Loop (12)
2:1 P, 3SBN, 3p, 3SBN, 2p (18)
3:1 PRS, 1p, 4SBN, 1p, 1SBN, 1p, 1SBN, 1p, 4SBN, 1p, 1SBN, 1p (24)
4:24 PRS (24)
5:3 PRS, 1 popcorn, 1SBN, 1 popcorn, 1SBN, 1 popcorn, 16SBN (24)
6-7:24 PRS (24)
8: (1u, 1SN)-5 times, 6SBN, 1u, 1SBN (18)
9-18:18 PRS (18)
Fill and shape your legs well. Fold the last row in half and tie the 8SBN through 2 folded rows.
Finish the knitting, leave the thread for sewing.

Hands-2 details.The foreground color.
A chain of 6VP.
1:1: Starting from the second from the hook loops 4SBN, 3SBN in the last loop of the chain, continue knitting around the chain. 3SBN, 2SBN in the last Loop (12)
2:1 P, 3SBN, 3p, 3SBN, 2p (18)
3:18 PRS (18)
4: (1SBN, 1 popcorn)-3 times, 12SBN (18)
5:6. 6SBN (12)
6-9:12 PRS (12)
10:8 RSBN, 4SBN (12)
11-20:12 PRS (12)

Fill and shape your hands well. Fold the last row in half and tie the 5SBN through 2 folded rows. Finish the knitting, leave the thread for sewing.
Tail.
The foreground color.
1:6 PRS in Amigurumi Ring (6)
2: (1p, 2SBN)-2 times (8)
3:8 PRS (8)
4: (1p, 3SBN)-2 times (10)
5:10 PRS (10)
6: (1p, 4SBN)-2 times (12)
7:12 PRS (12)
8: (1p, 5SBN)-2 times (14)
9:14 PRS (14)
10: (1p, 6SBN)-2 times (16)
11:16 PRS (16)
12: (1p, 7SBN)-2 times (18)
13:18 PRS (18)
14: (1p, 8SBN)-2 times (20)
15:20 PRS (20)
16: (1p, 9SBN)-2 times (22)
17:22 PRS (22)
18: (1p, 10SBN)-2 times (24)
19:24 PRS (24)
20:6 P, 18SBN (30)
21:30 PRS (30)
Finish the knitting, leave the thread for sewing. Before sewing, fill the tail with a filling.

Torso.
The foreground color.
Connect the thread to the hole in the head with the help of 1СС (see photo).
1-3:18 PRS (18)
4: (1p, 2SBN)-6 times (24)
5:24 PRS (24)
6: (1p, 3SBN)-6 times (30)
7:30 PRS (30)
8: (1p, 4SBN)-6 times (36)
9:30 PRS (30)
10: (1p, 5SBN)-6 times (42)
11:42 PRS (42)
12: (1p, 6SBN)-6 times (48)
13-22:48 PRS (48)
23: (1u, 6SBN)-6 times (42)
24: (1u, 5SBN)-6 times (36)
25: (1u, 4SBN)-6 times (30)
26: (1u, 3SBN)-6 times (24)
27: (1u, 2SBN)-6 times (18)
Fill the body with a filling.
28: (1u, 1SBN)-6 times (12)
Add a filler if you want.
29:6 U (6)
Slide the hole using a needle. Hide the thread.

Wings-2 parts.
Additional color.
1:6 PRS in Amigurumi Ring (6)
2: (1p, 2SBN)-2 times (8)
3:1 P, 7SBN (9)
4:1 P, 8SBN (10)
5:2 P, 8SBN (12)
6:2 P, 10SBN (14)
7:2 p, 12SBN (16)
8:2 P, 14SBN (18)
9:2 P, 16SBN (20)
10:2 P, 18SBN (22)
11:2 p, 20SBN (24)
12-14:24 PRS (24)
15: (1u, 2SBN)-6 times (18)
16:18 PRS (18)
17: (1u, 1SBN)-6 times (12)
18: Fold the wing in half and tie the 5SBN through the two rows together.
Finish knitting, leaving a long thread for sewing.

Spot on the belly.
Additional color.
A chain of 10VP.
1: Starting from the second of the hook loops 8SBN, 3SBN in the last loop chain, continue knitting around the chain. 7SBN, 2SBN in the last loop (20)
2:1 P, 7SBN, 3p, 7SBN, 2p (26)
3:1 PRS, 1p, 8SBN, 1p, 1SBN, 1p, 1SBN, 1p. 7SBN, 1p, 1SBN, 1p (32)
4:2 PRS, 1p, 9SBN, 1p, 2SBN, 1p, 2SBN, 1p, 9SBN, 1p, 2SBN, 1p (38)
Finish knitting, leaving a long thread for sewing.
Comb.
Additional color.
Before you start to knit a comb dragon, sew to a trunk a tail.We will knit the comb directly on the drakonchike. To tie the comb smoothly, pull the thread of the main color through the loops of the trunk and tail, marking the smooth line. If you take a good look at the photo, you will see this line. After the comb is contacted, this thread will not be visible at all.Now untie the 1СС in the first marked loop on the head, thus attaching an additional color.

Then tie the SS into each loop that is marked with the auxiliary thread. You should get about 55 cc. However, this figure is not accurate. Everything will depend on how the auxiliary thread crossed the loops. So if you have got more or less SS, do not panic.

When you reach the end of the tail, tie 2VP, 4ssn in the third loop of the hook. And then tie (skip one loop, 1СС, skip one loop, 4ssn in one loop)-repeat to the end of the mated SS. When you reach the junction of the head and torso, skip the 3-4 loops to make it easier to work on, and the pieces of scallops do not overlap one on the other.

Small tip: For knitting the first row of scallops (from the SS) take the main color. Then, even if you do not guess with the number of loops, it will not catch your eye and your work will look perfect.

You can also tie the comb apart from the dragon and then sew it on. To do this, type a chain of 55 EAP and tie the second row as described above.

Connect all the parts together.and enjoy your beautiful work!Dragon Amigurumi is very sweet and wonderful! Every time I look at him, he makes him smile. I hope you and your loved ones will smile as often as possible. And Dragon will help you in this!

Dragons differ in the design of the head. Both variants are given in the description.
Green – sleepy, red – ferocious. Choose, to your taste.
Size: 16-18 inches in height.

Materials:
-2 skein of Super Saver yarn or 1 large skein of Comfort yarn of red color or any other (for
head, body, tail, limbs, outer part of the wings, and parts of the head).
-A little yarn of contrasting color for the inside of the wings, thorns.
– A little white yarn for the Amigurumi Dragon eyes.
-Hook 4.5mm
needle for sewing parts
-scissors
-filler
-Amigurumi Dragon Free Pattern Eyes (for your choice: safe eyes, half-beads, mugs made of felt, etc.)

Notation:
KA = amigurumi ring cbn = column without crochet cc = connecting loop
psn = half-shell with crochet prssn = increase in half-columns with a crochet pr =
increase
уб = decrease
ppp = front half loops in = air loop ssn = column with crochet

Amigurumi Dragon Free Pattern

Amigurumi Dragon Free Pattern BODY: knit from the bottom of the body to the neck
1) spacecraft (6)
2) 6pr pssn (12)
3) 12 ppts (24)
4) (psn, pr msn) to the end (36)
5) (5pcc, pr pssn) to the end (42)
6) (6pcc, pr pssn) to the end (48)
7) (7pts, prmsn) to the end (54) 8) 27pss, 27sbn (54)
9-15) we repeat the 8th row
16) 3 сбн, 21пссн, 30сбн (54)
17) 4сбн, 18пссн, (6сбн, уб) -repeat the action in parentheses to the end of the series. When you reach the end
series, make ub (50)
18) (8сбн, уб) to the end (45)
19) 5сбн, 15пссн, 25сбн (45)
20) (3сбн, уб) 5 times, 20сбн (40)
21) (8 сбн, уб) to the end (36)
22) 6 сбн, 12пссн, 18сбн (36)
23) repeat the 22nd row
24) (4сбн, уб) to the end (30)
25) 30sbn To fill, to give shape
26) 8 сбн, 10пссн, 12сбн (30)
27-29) repeat the 26th row
30) (3сбн, уб) to the end (24)
31) 24 сбн
32) (4сбн, уб) to the end (20)
33) 6 сбн, 8пссн, 6сбн (20)
34) 6pssn, 8cbn, 6pssn (20)
35) repeat the 34th row
36) 6pss, 2sbn, 2ub, 4sbn, 4pssn (18)
37) 7psn, 8sbn, 3pss (18) To fill, to give shape
38) 5п пссн, 2пссн, 2сбн, уб, 7сбн (22)
39) 13psn, 2sbn, 2ub, 3sbn (20) 40) 10pss, 10sbn (20)
41-42) repeat the 40th row
43) (8сбн, уб) to the end (18) To fill, to give shape
44-47) 18sbn
48) (4сбн, уб) to the end (15)
49) 15sbn
50) (3сбн, уб) to the end (12)
ss, finish, leave a long thread. Densely packed, so that after sewing on the head, the neck does not
bent. You can insert a wire, just isolate the ends so that they do not come out.

Amigurumi Dragon Free Pattern Head: repeat the actions in parentheses to the end of the row. 1) spacecraft (6)
2) 6pr (12)
3) (sbn, pr) (18)
4) (2sbn, pr) (24)
5) (3sbn, pr) (30)
6) (4сбн, пр) (36)
7-11) 36sbn
12) (4сбн, уб) (30)
13) 30sbn
14) (3сбн, уб) (24)
15-18) 24 сбн
19) (2сбн, уб) (18)
20-21) 18 сбн
22) 6pr for the ppt, 12pr (36)
23) 12pss per ppt, 24sbn (36) 24) 12pss, (4cb, yb) (32) 25) 12pss, 20sbn (32)
fill the muzzle, shape 26-27) repeat the 25th row
28) 32 сбн
29) (6сбн, уб) (28)
30) (5сбн, уб) (24)
31) (2сбн, уб) (18)
Fill your head. Polustolbiki – this is the crown of the head, to fill and form it. 32) (ibn, ub) (12)
ss, finish, leave a long thread. Donabe head, pull the hole behind the PPP.
Put the thread inside the head.

Amigurumi Dragon Free Pattern Nostrils:
insert the hook between the 6th and 7th rows or 7th and 8th (depends on how tight you are stuffed,
try on, figure out how it will be better) 1in, 3ss in the next loop, 3ss in the next loop, ss in
Next, loop, finish. In the same way, make a second nostril. Distance between nostrils -4
loops. We form the nostrils, hide the ends of the thread inside the head.

Amigurumi Dragon Free Pattern Ears: repeat the actions in parentheses to the end of the series 1) SC (6)
2) 6pr (12)
3) (sbn, pr) (18)
4) (2sbn, pr) (24)
ss, finish, leave a long thread
Fold your ears and sew them from below. One end must be closed, the other end. Make sure that you
turned their ears in different directions. Sew them to the head.
The upper eyelid for a ferocious dragon
1) 8in * leave the long end of the sewing thread
2) from the 2 nd loop from the hook, 7 сбн (7) вп, turn
3) sbn, pssn, 3pr ssn, pssn, ss finish, leave a long thread

Amigurumi Dragon Free Pattern Lower eyelid for a fierce dragon
1) 8in * leave the long end of the sewing thread
2) from the 2nd loop from the hook, sbn, 5pss, ss (7) to finish, leave a long string
eyeball for a fierce dragon
1) spacecraft (6)
2) 6pr (12)
3) 12 сбн
ss, finish. Sew on the eyeball and eyelids to the head. Embroider the pupil.
The upper eyelid for the sleepy dragon
1) 8in * leave the long end of the sewing thread
2) from the 2nd loop from the hook, sbn, 5ssn, ss finish, leave a long string
Lower eyelid for the sleepy dragon
1) 6in
finish, leave a long thread
an eyeball for a sleepy dragon
1) spacecraft (6)
ss, finish.
Sew on the eyeball and eyelids to the head.
Paste the pupil mouth repeat the actions in parentheses to the end of the row
1) spacecraft (6)
2) 6pr (12)
3) (sbn, pr) (18)
4) (2sbn, pr) (24)
* rows 5-8 begin with the 2nd loop from the hook
5) 5 sb, b, turn
6) 5 sb, b, turn
7) 5 sb, b, turn
8) 5 sbn, in, turn
9) 5 sb (for the sleeping dragon finish, leave a long thread) for the fierce dragon continue:
bn, ssbn on the lateral side, bn, sb in a circle, ssbn on the lateral side. Finish, leave a long
a thread.
Hands repeat the actions in parentheses to the end of the series
1) spacecraft (6)
2) (2sbn, pr) (8)
3) (3sbn, pr) (10)
4-16) 10 сбн
17) 10pr (20)
18) make 4 fingers (see video)
legs repeat the actions in parentheses to the end of the row
1) spacecraft (6)
2) 6pr (12)
3) (sbn, pr) (18)
4) (2sbn, pr) (24)
5) (3sbn, pr) (30)
6-8) 30 сбн
9) 2сбн, у, repeat, until 6 markers remain before the marker (including a loop with a marker), 6сбн (24)
10) (ibn, ub) (16)
11-14) 16sbn
ss, finish, leave a long thread. To fill.
tail repeat the action in brackets to the end of the row
1) spacecraft (6)
2-6) 6sbn
7) (2sbn, pr) (8)
8-10) 8cb
11) (3sbn, pr) (10)
12-14) 10 сбн
15) (4sbn, pr) (12)
16-18) 12sbn
19) (3sbn, pr) (15)
20-22) 15sbn
23) (4сбн, пр) (18)
24-26) 18sbn
27) (2sbn, pr) (24)
28-30) 24sbn
31) (3сбн, пр) (30)
32-34) 30sbn
35) (4сбн, пр) (36)
36-38) 36sbn
39) (5bn, pr) (42)
40-42) 42sbn
43) (6sbn, pr) (48)
44-46) 48sbn
ss, finish, leave a long thread
Fold in two, sew a ridge. The height of the ridge decreases from the wide part to the tip.
Attach the contrasting thread to the tip of the tail. We knit sbn, psn, sb, ss. This is the beginning. Further up to
end repeat (2in, 3ss, sb, cc)

Amigurumi Dragon Free Pattern Belly (contrasting color)
For the ranks of the PSN, we do 2 in lifting and turning. We begin with the 3rd loop from the hook For the rows we make
1 in up and turn. Begin with the 2nd loop from the hook
1) 21in
2) from the 2nd loop from the hook, 20sbn (20) 3-11) 20pss (20)
12) (3сбн, уб) to the end of the series (16) 13-14) 16пссн
15) (2сбн, уб) to the end of the series (12) 16-17) 12пссн
18) (4сбн, уб) to the end of the series (10)
19) 10pss
20) (3сбн, уб) (8)
21-25) 8pssn
26) (2сбн, уб) (6)
27-33) 6pss
34) (sb, yb) to the end of the series (4)
35) 4pss
36) 4ss
finish, leave the sewing thread

The outer part of the wing: 2 details-the color of the body
1) 16in
2) from the 2nd loop from the hook, 15sbn (15) 2in, turn,
3) from the 3rd loop from the hook, 11pss, 3in, turn,
4) from the 4th loop from the hook, 9pss, ub, 2in, turn
5) from the 3rd loop from the hook, 7sssn, 3vp, turn,
6) from the 4th loop from the hook, 5pss, ub
Continue to knit on the next side: 3уб, сбн в угол. Continue on the next side, 15sbn,
bn, sb on the next side. We continue to knit sbn, to the place where we started knitting. Finish,
leave a thread.

Inner part of the wing: 2 parts-contrasting color
1) 14in
2) from the 2nd loop from the hook, 13сбн (13) 2вп, turn,
3) from the 3rd loop from the hook, 9pss, 3in, turn,
4) from the 4th loop from the hook, 7pss, ub, 2in, turn
5) from the 3rd loop from the hook, 5psn, 3in, turn,
6) from the 4th loop from the hook, 3pss, ub
We continue to knit on the next side, 3ub, in a corner. We continue along the next side of 13b, bn,
sb on the next side. We continue to knit sbn, to the place where we started

Amigurumi Kids Dragonling Free Pattern

1. head – ball
1 row: 2 ce, close into a ring. Knit 6 tbsp. b / n [= 6] 
2 row: (increase) * 6 times [= 12] 
3 row: (increase, 1 item b / n) * 6 times [= 18] 
4 row: (increase, 2 item b / n) * 6 times [= 24] 
5-8 rows (4 rows): Art. b / n [= 24] 
9th row: (increase, 2 items b / n) * 6 times [= 18]. Insert the 
10th row filler : (increase, 1 tbsp. N / a) * 6 times [= 12] 
11 row: (decrease) until hole 
2 closes .

2. Torso – “cup”, at the base of which hemisphere is 
1 row: 2 in. n., close the ring. Knit 6 tbsp. b / n [= 6] 
2 row: (increase) * 6 times [= 12]
3 row: (increase, 1 tbsp. B / n) * 6 times [= 18] 
4-8 rows: Art. b / n [= 18] 
In the last rows, you can make a couple of reductions to form a neck 

3. handles 
1 row: 2 cf, close into a ring. Knit 6 tbsp. b / n [= 6] 
2 row: increase, 5 tbsp. b / n [= 7] 
3-5 rows: Art. b / n [= 7]. Attach a little filler. 
Here you can still think about how to make the handles not straight, but slightly curved (for example, knit a pair of loops on the inside of the handle with connecting posts, or vice versa, knit with a double crochet on the outside)

4. Legs
1 row: 2 in. n., close the ring. Knit 6 tbsp. b / n [= 6] 
2 row: (increase) * 6 times [= 12] 
3 row: Art. b / n [= 12]. Insert cardboard base (optional)
4th row: 3-4 drops to round out the leg. Insert filler. 
You can make the “foot” a little more oval (it seems to me that it will be more like a leg), knitting 3 VP, then 1 tbsp. b / n in the second loop from the hook, then 3 tbsp. b / n in the initial loop, then turn knitting and 1 tbsp. b / n in the first loop.  
It is better to tie the legs in the 4th row in the following way: 4subs, 4xbn and knit 5th row of 8sbn, then the leg looks more interesting. 5. tail – cone 
1 row: 2 vp, closed in a ring. Knit 6 tbsp. b / n [= 6] 
2 row: increase, 5 tbsp. b / n [= 7] 
3 row: increase, 6 tbsp. b / n [= 8] 
4ryad: increase, 7 tbsp. b / n [= 9] 
5ryad: increase, 8 Art. b / n [= 10] 
6 row: increase, 9 tbsp. b / n [= 11]  
6. teeth- Fans of 5 double crochets, knitted right on the head, back and tail, and separated by connecting bars. That’s what happened at this stage, I can not continue today. It’s time to get ready for work. You can sew different tails and different faces to this figure and then you will get cats, bears and whatever you want. This is what my dragon looks like. Natasha, tell me if he can redo his face. Some kind of a little sparrow. As for the design of the face, the original has a spout sewn 1 row higher than the eyes and, it seems to me, the eyes are a little further apart. I think you can drown the eyes a little inside the head with the help of threads, and the nose can be made from a colored bead or embroidered as 2 horizontal stitches or cut out of felt.

Even in my opinion, one row without increments and reductions in the head is still superfluous – the head of the original has the shape of a slightly oblate ball. The teeth on the head and back can be made more convex, knitting on 1 connecting column between the fans. 

In the original, it is difficult to imagine what the face looks like in the face, because photo taken at an angle. I found some pictures of typical amigurumi muzzles. Pay attention, they all have eyes and nose (or mouth) are on the same level. It is also often the case that in amigurum toy eyes are made of flat beads (or hemispherical beads), and if round beads are used, they need to be drowned inside – due to this, the toy looks more natural. Here’s what my dragon turned out (just for an hour and a little work): II version of the head:

1p 7sbn 
2p ( prib ) * 7 (14) 
3p (1sbn, prib.) * 7 (21) 
4p (2sbn, prib) * 7 (28) 
5-8p unchanged (28) 
9p (ass, 2sbn) * 7 (21) 
10p (ass, 1sbn) * 7 (14) 
11p (ass) * 7 (7)

More Amigurumi Dragon Ideas:

 Abbreviations as Usual:
VP-Air Loop
PRS-Column without a throw
CL-Next

Amigurumi Little Dragon Free Pattern

Let’s start with the head:
of the 2 EAP. Knit 6 PRS-(6).
In each loop-2 PRS. -(12).
1 PRS, in CL-2 PRS. -(18).
 (18 PRS).
2 PRS, in CL-2 PRS.-(24).
(24 PRS).
(24 PRS).
(24 PRS).
(24 PRS).
Diminishes: (3 PRS, 2 together) x 6 times.-(19).
(19 PRS).
Surcharge: (3 PRS, in SL-2SBN). -(24).
3 PRS, in CL.-2 PRS. -(30).
4 PRS, in CL.-2 PRS. -(36).
(36 PRS).
(36 PRS).
(36 PRS).
(36 PRS).
Diminishes: 4 PRS, 2 together. -(30).
3 PRS, 2 together. -(24).
2 PRS, 2 together. -(18).
1 PRS, 2 together. -(12).
Knit loops in pairs. -(6).
Close.

   Now the body of the Dragon:

1 row-of 2 VP knitting 6 prs. -(6).
2 row-in each 2 PRS. -(12).
3 row-1 PRS, in CL.-2 PRS. -(18).
4 Row-2 PRS, in CL-2 PRS-(24).
5-6 Series-(24 PRS).
7 Row-3 PRS, in CL.-2 PRS. -(30).
8 Row-4 PRS, in CL.-2 PRS. -(36).
9-11 Series-(36 PRS).
12 Row-4 PRS, in CL.-2 PRS, the last loop is PRS-Total now 43 loops.-(43).
13 and 14 rows-just knit 43 PRs.-(43).
15 row-Diminishes: 4 PRS, 2 together, the last in this row loop-1SBN. -(36).
16 Row-Diminishes: 4 PRS, 2 together. -(30).
17 Row-(2 together, 3 PRS) x 3 times, the other 15-PRs. -(27).
18 Row-(2 together, 2 PRS) x 3 times, the other 15-PRs.-(24).
19 Row-(2 together, 2 PRS) x 3 times, the other 12-PRS.-(21).
20 Row-(21 PRS).
21 Row-2 together, 5 PRS, 2 together, the other 12-PRS.-(19).
22 Row-2 together, 4 PRS, 2 together, the other 11-PRs.-(17).
23-25 Series-(17 PRS). It’s time to padding the torso. I do it with a Chinese chopstick. Very convenient:)
26 Row-2 together, 3 PRS, 2 together, the other 10-PRs.-(15).
27 Row-2 together, 2 PRS, 2 together, the other 9-PRs.-(13).
28 Row-2 together-6 times, 1 PRs. -(7).
29 series-The tip of the tail: in each loop-2 PRS. -(14).
30 Row-(14 PRS).
31 row-knit all loops in pairs. (7).
32 row-pair and close.

   Neck Dragon:
Inside it will be a wire, which twist several times among themselves. For the stability of the head:) And the head can now be tilted as desired.
   Fit Neck is simple:
8 VP-in the ring and 5 rows knitting these 8 loops PRS.
6 row-Raise: 1 PRS, in CL-2 PRS. -(12).
7 Row-knit These 12 loops PRS, close. The neck, respectively, remains hollow, and then sewn to the head and body, as you want.
   Front and rear paws:
Tally they are the same, it is possible one color, it is possible, as I, for brightness to change colors.

   Yellow:
1 row-from 2 VP Vyvjazyvaem 6 PRS. -(6).
2 Row-2 PRS in each loop. -(12).
3 row-1 PRS, in CL.-2 PRS. -(18)
Change color to green and 4 to 7 rows knitting 18 prs. -(18).
8 Series-Diminishes loops: 1 PRS, 2 together. -(12).
9 Row-12 PRS, to beat Paws padding, it is better not very dense, that were not, as balls. -(12).
10 row-all loops knit in pairs PRS. -(6)
11 row-diminishes and close.

   Nostrils:

We recruit 4 EAP. In the second from a hook a loop knit 1 PRS, in the third-1 column with crochets, 1 column with 2 throw, 1 column with 1 crochets, in 4, last loop-knit 1 PRS and close.

   Ears:

1. Dial 4 VP, starting with 2 loops from the hook Knit 3 prs. At the end of the series do the EAP lifting and turn the work.
2 row-1 PRS, 2 PRS with 1 crochets in one loop, 1 PRs. Lift loop, turn.
3 row-1 PRS, (2 PRS with 1 crochets in one loop) x 2 times, 1 PRs. Lift loop, turn.
4 row-all loops PRS.
5 Series-All loops PRS another color. Close.

   Wings:

I really enjoyed using Irish leaflets in knitting toys. In the case of elephant fishermen they successfully played the role of ears. And then I thought it was very successful to make such hell wings of the Dragon. Blends organically. Here is the layout of this sheet:

Only the comb is left to bind:
   We dial the number of loops, a multiple of 4, trying our chain of air loops on the head and the Dragon body.  In each fourth loop knit: 3 columns with 1 crochets, then we dial 3 EAP and connecting column finish work with this loop. Then all the same in the next 4th loop, etc. at Dragon Mahaseja I have the last row of scallops strapped with white, thinner thread, so that the comb is combined with wings that have white elements.
   
Now all the details must be assembled and sewn up:)
   Let this dragon bring you luck!
   Have a nice knitting!

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How to make – “Knitted dragon”:
Meet – knitted dragon Gosh:

Amigurumi Dragon Crochet Free Pattern

Head.
Green: 
1. 2 ce, 6 tbsp. without nakida in 2 n. from the hook. 
2. An increase in each paragraph (12) 
3. * 1 Art. without nakida, 2 tbsp. without crochet in 1 p. * (18) 
4. * 2 tbsp. without nakida, 2 tbsp. without crochet in 1 p. * (24) 
5. * 3 tbsp. without nakida, 2 tbsp. without nakida in 1 p. * (30) 
6. * 4 Art. without nakida, 2 tbsp. without nakida in 1 p. * (36) 
7. * 5 Art. without nakida, 2 tbsp. without nakida in 1 p. * (42) 
8-9. st. without nakida in each paragraph (42) 
10. * 5CT. without nakida, reduction * (36) 
11-12. st. without nakida in each paragraph (36) 
13. 16 Art. without nakida, 1 increase, 2 tbsp. without nakida, 1 increase, 16 tbsp. without nakida (38) 
14. 17 Art. without nakida, 1 increase, 3 tbsp. without nakida, 1 increase, 16 tbsp. nakida (40) 
15. 18 art. without nakida, 1 increase, 4 tbsp. without nakida, 1 increase, 16 tbsp. without nakida (42) 
16. 16 Art. without nakida, 1 increase, 2 tbsp. without nakida, 1 increase, 5 tbsp. without nakida, 1 increase, 2 tbsp. without nakida, 1 increase, 13 tbsp. without nakida (46) 
17. 17 Art. without nakida, 1 increase, 3 tbsp. without nakida, 1 increase, 6 tbsp. without nakida, 1 increase, 3 tbsp. without nakida, 1 increase, 13 tbsp. without nakida (50) 
18-23. st. without nakida in each paragraph 
24. * 8 of Art. without nakida, 1 reduction * (45) 
25. * 7 Art. without nakida, 1 decrease * (40) 
26. * 6 tbsp. without nakida, 1 decrease * (35) 
27. * 5 Art. without nakida, 1 decrease * (30) 
28. * 4 tbsp. without nakida, 1 decrease * (25) 
29. * 3 tbsp. single, 1 trim * (20) 
30. * 2 tbsp. without nakida, 1 decrease * (15) 
31. * 1 tbsp. without nakida, 1 decrease * (10) 
Fill the part.

Cheeks (2).
Yellow: 
2 VP, 6 tbsp. without nakida in the second n. from the hook. 
The increase in each paragraph (12) 
* 1 tbsp. without nakida, 2 tbsp. without nakid in 1 p. * (18) 
Finish, leaving the thread for sewing.

Body.
Green: 
1. 2 ce, 6 tbsp. without nakida in 2 n. from the hook. 
2. An increase in each paragraph (12) 
3. * 1 Art. without nakida, 2 tbsp. without crochet in 1 p. * (18) 
4. * 2 tbsp. without nakida, 2 tbsp. without crochet in 1 p. * (24) 
5. * 3 tbsp. without nakida, 2 tbsp. without nakida in 1 p. * (30) 
6. * 4 Art. without nakida, 2 tbsp. without nakida in 1 p. * (36) 
7. * 5 Art. without nakida, 2 tbsp. without nakida in 1 p. * (42) 
8. * 6 Art. without nakida, 2 tbsp. without nakida in 1 p. * (48) 
9. * 7 Art. without nakida, 2 tbsp. without nakida in 1 p. * (54) 
10. * 8 Art. without nakida, 2 tbsp. without nakida in 1 p. * (60) 
11. * 9 Art. without nakida, 2 tbsp. without nakida in 1 p. * (66) 
12-16. st. without crochet in each column 
17. * 9 Art. without nakida, reduction * (60) 
18-21. st. without nakida in each column 
22. * 8 tbsp. without nakida, reduction * (54) 
23-26. st. without nakida in each column 
27. * 7 tbsp. without nakida, reduction * (48) 
28-29. st. without nakida in each column 
30. * 6 tbsp. without nakida, reduction * (42) 
31. Art. without nakida in each column 
32. * 5 tbsp. without nakida, reduction * (36) 
33. Art. without nakida in each column 
34. * 4 tbsp. without nakida, decrease * (30) 
35-47. st. without nakida in each column 
48. * 3 tbsp. without nakida, reduction * (24) 
Fill the torso. Sew head.

Tail.
Green: type 
36 vp ring together 
1-5. st. without nakida in each paragraph 
6. * 4 of Art. without nakida, reduction * (30) 
7-12. (30) 
13. * 3 tbsp. without nakida, reduction * (24) 
14-19. (24) 
20. * 2 tbsp. without nakida, reduction * (18) 
21-26. (18) 
27. * 1 tbsp. without nakida, a reduction * (12) 
28-31. (12) 
32. a decrease in each paragraph (6) 
Finish to pull the paragraph

Front feet (2).
Green: 
1. 2 ce, 6 tbsp. without nakida in 2 n. from the hook. 
2. An increase in each paragraph (12) 
3. * 1 Art. without nakida, 2 tbsp. without crochet in 1 p. * (18) 
4. * 2 tbsp. without nakida, 2 tbsp. without crochet in 1 p. * (24) 
5. * 3 tbsp. without nakida, 2 tbsp. without nakida in 1 p. * (30) 
6-8. st. without nakida in each paragraph 
9. * 4 of Art. without nakida, decrease * (25) 
10-14. st. without nakida in each paragraph 
15. * 3 tbsp. without nakida, reduction * (20) 
16-21. st. without nakida in each paragraph 
22. * 2 tbsp. without nakida, reduction * (15) 
23-28. st. without nakida in each p. 
Fill the detail, fold in half and sew. Sew handles to the body.

Hind legs (2).
Green: 
Stuff in the process of knitting. 
1. Link a chain of 12 vp knit 10 tbsp. without nakida, starting with 2 p. from the hook, in the last p. knit 3 tbsp. without nakida, continue knitting on the second side of the chain, 9 tbsp. without nakida, 2 tbsp. without nakida in the last paragraph (24) 
2. increase, 9 tbsp. without nakida, increase, Art. without nakida, increase, 9 tbsp. without nakida, increase, Art. without nakida. (28) 
3. Art. without nakida, increase, 10 tbsp. without nakida, increase, 2 tbsp. without nakida, increase, 10 tbsp. without nakida, increase, Art. without nakida. (32) 
4. 2 tbsp. without nakida, increase, 5 tbsp. without nakida, 1 half. double crochet, 4 tbsp. double crochet, increase, 4 tbsp. double crochet, increase, 4 tbsp. with double crochet 1 double crochet 5 tbsp. without nakida, increase, 2 tbsp. without nakida. (36) 
5. 15 Art. without nakida, increase, 5 tbsp. without nakida, increase, 14 tbsp. without nakida (38) 
6-7. st. without nakida in each item 
8. 8 Art. without nakida, * decrease, 1 tbsp. without nakida * repeat 7 times, 9 tbsp. without nakida (31) 
9. 7 Art. 8 down, 8 tbsp. without nakida (23) 
10. 9 tbsp. without nakida, 4 tbsp. without nakida with a common vertex (20) 
11-17. st. without nakida in each paragraph 
18. * 8 of Art. without nakida, a reduction * (18) 
19. * 7 Art. without nakida, reduction * (16) 
20-22. st. without nakid in each paragraph 
23. reduction, Art. without nakida in each paragraph (15) 
24. * 3 Art. without nakida, reduction * (12) 
25. 6 reductions. 
The remaining hole to pull.

Fingers (6).
Yellow: 
1. 2 ce, 6 tbsp. without nakida in 2 n. from the hook. 
2. An increase in each item (12) 
3-4. st. without nakida in each 
section . Sew fingers, sew paws to the body.

Tummy.
Yellow: 
Dial 51. v.p. 
1. 49 art. without nakida, 3 tbsp. without nakida in the last paragraph, continue to knit in a circle, 48 st. without nakida 
2. * 2 tbsp. without nakida in 1 p. * – 2 times, 49 st. without nakida 
3. * 2 tbsp. without nakida in 1 p. * – 2 times, 50 st. without nakida 
4. * 2 tbsp. without nakida in 1 p. * – 2 times, 51 st. without nakida 
5. * 2 tbsp. without nakida in 1 p. * – 2 times, 52 st. without nakida 
6. * 2 tbsp. without nakida in 1 p. * – 2 times, 53 st. without nakida 
7. * 2 tbsp. without nakida in 1 p. * – 2 times, 55 st. nakida 
Finish, leave the thread for stitching. Sew tummy.

Specks (quantity at will).
Yellow: 
2 VP, 6 tbsp. without nakida in the second n. from the hook. 
Increment in each item (12) Finish, leave a long thread for stitching. 
Sew specks.

Wings (2).
Yellow: 
1. 2 ce, 6 tbsp. without nakida in 2 n. from hook 
2. * 2 tbsp. without nakida, increase * (8) 
3. * 3 tbsp. without nakida, increase * (10) 
4. * 4 tbsp. without nakida, increase * (12) 
5. * 2 tbsp. without nakida, increase * (16) 
6. * 7 Art. without nakida, increase * (18) 
7-8. st. without nakida in each item 
8. * 7 Art. without nakida, reduction * (16) 
9. * 2 tbsp. without nakida, a reduction * (12) 
10. * 4 Art. without nakida, reduction * (10) 
11. Art. without nakida in each item. 
Sew on the wings.

For a ridge, you can link a chain from to. loops and knit teeth: * 1 tbsp. without nakida, 1 tbsp. double crochet, 1 tbsp. without nakida – in 1 p., Com. v. * I was knitting a comb right along the body, hooking the loops with a hook.

Eyes (2).
White: 
1. 2 ce, 6 tbsp. without nakida in 2 n. from hook 
2. An increase in each p. (12) 
3. * 1 tbsp. without nakida, increase * (18) 
4. * 1 tbsp. without nakida, reduction * (12) 
Fill.

Dragon Pupil.
Black color. 
2 ce 2 tbsp. without nakida in 2 n. from the hook, 5 tbsp. without nakida Sew the pupil to the eye.

Eyelids.
Green: 
1. Dial 20 in. P. Link 19 Art. without nakida starting from 2 points from the hook. 
2-3. 19 Art. without nakida 

Nostrils (2).
Green:

1. 2 inc. , 4 tbsp. without nakida in 2 from the hook p. 
2. An increase in each p. (8) 
3. 2 tbsp. without nakida in 1 p., 2 tbsp. without nakida, * 2 tbsp. without nakida in 1 p. * – 2 times, 2 tbsp. without nakida, 2 tbsp. without crochet in 1 p. (12) 
4-5. st. without nakida in every paragraph

Sew eyes, eyelids and nostrils. Embroider mouth.

Description of knitting little dragon.

We will need:

The yarn is green (I have 100% cotton, 250 meters per 100g)
Yellow yarn thinner (250m 50gr)
Hook number 2
Filler
Beads
Felt

All the details, except the neck, ears, scallops and wings, begin to knit with the initial ring of 6 p.
The main type of loops – article bn.
All the ends of the thread is not cut, and refuel in detail!

Amigurumi Green Dragon Free Pattern

The body – 1deta.
6p – 12p – 18p – 24p – 30p – 36p knit in a circle – 6 rows.up to 12 rows inclusive knit without changes.
13r – chz 5p reset14r – chz 4p return
15, 16,17 r – without changes, we fill a little
18r – chz 3p decrease
19,20r – without changes
21 p – chz 2p reset, we stuff some more
22,23 r – without changes
24 r – chz 1 p down25 r – without changes, we fill to the end, we collect for 1 thread and tighten.

Head – 1 det.
6p-12p-18p-24p-30p knit in a circle – 5 rowsup to 10 rows inclusively unchanged
11r – chz 4p reduction
12p – no change
13r – chz 3 p reset
14, 15, 16 r – without changes, we fill a little
17r – chz 2p reset
18r – chz 1p a decrease, we collect on 1 thread and we tighten.

Legs – 2 children.
6p – 12p-18p knit in a circle in 3 rows4, 5, 6 r – without changes
7р – chz 3 p reset
8p – no change
9p – chz 2p reduction, do not tighten, we complete. 

Handles – 2 children.
6p – 12p knit in a circle 2 rows3,4,5,6 r – without changes
7р – chz 3p decrease
8p – no change
9p – chz 2p reset, collect on 1 thread and tighten. 

Nostrils – 2 years (yellow thread)
The initial ring of 6P, we complete the connection. st.Neck – 1deta.
8th c. n enclosed in a ring comp. st, knit in a circle 6 rows. 

Ears – 2 children.
Dial 4 VP, in the 2nd loop from the hook, knit 3 items bn, in the last – 2 items bn, complete the connection. st. 

Scallop – 1det (yellow thread).
Dial 40 v.p knit a row of article bnThen * Art bn, Art nn, Art c 2n, Art nn, Art bn *, continue to the end from * to * 

Wings – 2det (yellow thread)
Dial 11 VP and knit according to the leaf pattern.

Then we sew all the parts, we start from the head: we sew our eyes (you can cut circles from white felt or leather, and from the top – a bead), ears and nostrils.

Then all the other body parts. On the tum can be glued a circle of yellow felt, mouth, too, from a piece of felt.