Amigurumi Crochet German Dog Free Pattern

Se teje con el Gancho 3 1/2

CABEZA

En beige

Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)

Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp)

Hilera 3.-*1mp,1aum* repetir (18mp)

Hilera 4.-*2mp,1aum* repetir (24mp)

Hilera 5.-*3mp,1aum* repetir (30mp)

Hilera 6.-*4mp,1aum* repetir (36mp)

Hilera 7.-*5mp,1aum* repetir (42mp)

Hilera 8.-*6mp,1aum* repetir (48mp)

Hilera 9 a la 16.-Se tejen (48mp)

Hilera 17.-*7mp,1aum*repetir (54mp)

Hilera 18.-*8mp,1aum*repetir (60mp)

Hilera 19 y 20.-Se tejen los (60mp)

Hilera 21.-*8mp,1dism*repetir (54mp)

Hilera 22.-Se tejen los (54mp)

Hilera 23.-*7mp,1dism*repetir (48mp)

Hilera 24.-*6mp,1dism*repetir (42mp)

Hilera 25.-*5mp,1dism*repetir (36mp)

Hilera 26.-*4mp,1dism*repetir (30mp)

Hilera 27.-*3mp,1dism*repetir (24mp)

Hilera 28.-*2mp,1dism*repetir (18mp)

Hilera 29.-*1mp,1dism* repetir (12mp)

Hilera 30.-6 disminuciones

COLLAR

En rojo

Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (8mp)

Se hace la tira hasta que le abarque el cuello.

Esta pieza no se rellena

Patas Delanteras (X2)

En beige

Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)

Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp)

Hilera 3.-*1mp,1aum* repetir  (18mp)

Hilera 4.-*2mp,1aum* repetir  (24mp)

Hilera 5.-*3mp,1aum* repetir (30mp)

Hilera 6 a la 7.-Se tejen los (30mp)

Hilera 8.-*3mp, 1dism* repetir (24mp)

Hilera 9.-*2mp, 1dism* repetir (18mp)

Hilera 10.-*1mp,1dism* repetir (12mp)

Hilera 11 a la 30.-Se tejen los (12mp)

Ir rellenando

Hilera 31.-*3mp,1aum * repetir (15mp)

Hilera 32.-*4mp,1aum* repetir (18mp)

Hilera 33.-Se tejen los (18mp)

Hilera 34-*4mp,1dism* repetir (15mp)

Hilera 35.-*3mp,1dism*repetir (12mp)

Hilera 36.-6 disminuciones

Orejas (X2)

En beige

Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)

Hilera 2.-*1mp,1aum* repetir (9mp)

Hilera 3 a la 5.-Se tejen los (9mp)

Hilera 6.-*2mp,1aum*repetir (12mp)

Hilera 7.-*3mp,1aum* repetir (15mp)

Hilera 8.-Se tejen los (15mp)

Hilera 9.-*4mp,1aum* repetir (18mp)

Hilera 10.-Se tejen los (18mp)

Hilera 11.-*5mp,1aum*repetir (21mp)

Hilera 12.-*6mp,1aum*repetir (24mp)

Hilera 13.-*7mp,1aum*repetir (27mp)

Hilera 14.-*8mp,1aum*repetir (30mp)

Hilera 15.-Se tejen los (30mp)

Hilera 16.-*3mp,1dism*repetir (24mp)

Unir la pieza con 12mp.

Hocico

En café

Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)

Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp)

Hilera 3.-*1mp,1aum* repetir  (18mp)

Hilera 4.-*2mp,1aum* repetir  (24mp)

Hilera 5.-*3mp,1aum* repetir (30mp)

Hilera 6 a la 8.-Se tejen los (30mp)

Levantar una cadena y trabajar por filas

F1 y F2.-Se tejen 5mp

F3.-1dism,1mp,1 dism (3mp)

Contar 11mp sin tejer de donde se hizo el primero hacer 5mp

F1 y F2.-Se tejen (5mp)

F3.-1dism,1mp,1dism (3mp)

Donde se hicierón los cachet ubica la mitad y sacar:

Fila 1 de (3mp)

Fila 2.-1mp, 1dims (2mp)

Y hacer 1mp en todo alrededor.

Nariz

En negro

Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)

Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp)

CUERPO

En café

Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)

Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp)

Hilera 3.-*1mp,1aum* repetir (18mp)

Hilera 4.-*2mp,1aum* repetir (24mp)

Hilera 5.-*3mp,1aum* repetir (30mp)

Hilera 6.-*4mp,1aum* repetir (36mp)

Hilera 7.-*5mp,1aum* repetir (42mp)

Hilera 8.-*6mp,1aum* repetir (48mp)

Hilera 9.-*7mp,1aum* repetir (54mp)

Hilera10.-*8mp,1aum*repetir (60mp)

Hilera 11 a la 14.-Se tejen los (60mp)

Hilera 15.-*8mp,1dism*repetir (54mp)

Hilera 16.-*7mp,1dism*repetir (48mp)

Hilera 17.-Se tejen los (48mp)

Hilera 18.-*6mp,1dism*repetir (42mp)

Hilera 19.-*5mp,1dims*repetir (36mp)

Hilera 20 a la 30.-Se tejen los (36mp)

Ir rellenando

Hilera 31.-*4mp,1dism*repetir (30mp)

Hilera 32 a la 35.-Se tejen los (30mp)

Hilera 36.-*3mp,1dism*repetir (24mp)

Hilera 37.-*2mp,1dism*repetir (18mp)

Muslos de las patas traseras (X2)

En beige

Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)

Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp)

Hilera 3.-*1mp,1aum* repetir  (18mp)

Hilera 4.-*2mp,1aum* repetir  (24mp)

Hilera 5 y 6.-Se tejen los (24mp)

Hilera 7.-*3mp,1aum* repetir (30mp)

Hilera 8 y 9.-Se tejen los (30mp)

Hilera 10.-*4mp, 1aum* repetir(36mp)

Hilera 11.-*5mp, 1aum* repetir (42mp)

Hilera 12 a la 14.-Se tejen los (42mp)

Hilera 15.-*5mp,1dism* repetir(36mp)

Hilera 16.-*4mp,1dism* repetir(30mp)

Hilera 17.-*3mp,1dism* repetir(24mp)

Hilera 18.-*2mp,1dism* repetir (18mp)

Hilera 19.-*1mp, 1dism* repetir(12mp)

Hilera 20.-6 disminuciones

Patas Traseras (x2)

En beige

Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)

Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp)

Hilera 3.-*1mp,1aum* repetir  (18mp)

Hilera 4.-*2mp,1aum* repetir  (24mp)

Hilera 5.-*3mp,1aum* repetir (30mp)

Hilera 6 a la 7.-Se tejen los (30mp)

Hilera 8.-*3mp, 1dism* repetir (24mp)

Hilera 9.-*2mp, 1dism* repetir (18mp)

Ir rellenando

Hilera 10.-*1mp,1dism* repetir (12mp)

Hilera 11.-6 disminuciones

Cola

En café

Hilera 1.-Hacer un aro deslizado (6mp)

Hilera 2.-1mp,1aum (x2)en beige 1mp, 1aum (9mp)

Hilera 3.-En beige 2mp, en café 1aum,2mp,1aum en beige 2mp, 1aum (12)

Hilera 4.-2mp en beige,6mp en café y mp

Hilera 5 a la 15.-Se tejen igual que la Hilera 4.

Lengua

En rosa

Hacer una cadena de 4

F1 a la F3.-Se tejen los (3mp)

F4.-1mp,1dism (2mp)

F5.-Se tejen  (2mp)

Y hacer 1punto deslizado en todo alrededor.

Manchas de los Ojos (X2)

En café

Hace 7 cadenas

F1 a la F5.-Se tejen los (6mp)

F6.-3 disminuciones y hacer 1 punto deslizado en cada punto abarcando todo alrededor.

En Blanco (x2)

Hacer una cadena de 5

Vta 1.-4mp,1aum girar el tejido y hacer 3mp,

Hacer 1mp en todo alrededor del ojo

En Negro

Hacer un aro desliado de (6mp)

Poodle measures 13” tall x 12” from nose to end
(excluding tail).
RED HEART® “Super Saver®”: 1 skein each 373 Petal
Pink A, 316 Soft White B, and 312 Black C.
RED HEART® “Pomp-a-Doodle™”: 1 ball 9785 Cotton
Candy Pink D.
Crochet Hooks: 3.75mm [US F-5], 5mm [US H-8].
Yarn needle, stitch marker, black embroidery floss,
polyester filler, strong hand-sewing thread and needle,
GAUGE: 20 sc = 4”; 16 rounds = 4” in sc. CHECK YOUR
GAUGE. Use any size hook to obtain the gauge.
Special Abbreviations
inc (increase) = 2 sc in next sc.
dec (decrease) = [draw up a loop in next st] twice, yo and
draw through all 3 loops on hook.

Amigurumi Crochet Pomp Poddle Free Pattern

Head (Begin at nose)
Work in continuous rounds without joining. Mark beginning
of round. Move marker up each round.
Round 1: With C and smaller hook, ch 2; 6 sc in 2nd ch
from hook.
Round 2: [Inc] 6 times – 12 sc.
Rounds 3 and 4: Sc in each sc around.
Round 5: Dec, sc in next 9 sc, slip st in next sc – 11 sts.
Fasten off. Stuff with black yarn remnants to prevent
stuffing show-through.
Round 6: Join B in any st; ch 1, [inc, sc in next sc] 5 times, inc – 17 sc.
Round 7: Sc in each sc around.
Round 8: Inc, sc in next 8 sc, inc, sc in next 7 sc – 19 sc.
Round 9: Inc, sc in next 9 sc, inc, sc in next 8 sc – 21 sc.
Round 10: Inc, sc in next 10 sc, inc, sc in next 9 sc – 23 sc.
Round 11: Inc, sc in next 11 sc, inc, sc in next 10 sc – 25 sc.
Round 12: [Inc, sc in next 4 sc] 5 times – 30 sc.
Round 13: [Inc, sc in next 4 sc] 6 times – 36 sc.
Round 14: Sc in each sc around.
Round 15: [Inc, sc in next 5 sc] 6 times – 42 sc.
Round 16: [Inc, sc in next 6 sc] 6 times – 48 sc.
Round 17: [Inc, sc in next 7 sc] 6 times – 54 sc.
Rounds 18-23: Sc in each sc around.
Round 24: [Inc, sc in next 8 sc] 6 times – 60 sc.
Round 25: Sc in each sc around.
Round 26: [Dec, sc in next 4 sc] 10 times – 50 sc.
Round 27: [Dec, sc in next 3 sc] 10 times – 40 sc.
Round 28: [Dec, sc in next 2 sc] 10 times – 30 sc. Stuff
head firmly, continuing as rounds are worked.
Round 29: [Dec, sc in next sc] 10 times – 20 sc.
Round 30: Sc in each sc around. Finish stuffing head.
Round 31: [Dec] 10 times – 10 sc.
Round 32: [Dec] 5 times – 5 sc. Fasten off, weaving yarn
tail through sc to close hole.

Body (Beginning at rear end)
Round 1: Using A and smaller hook, ch 2; 6 sc in 2nd ch
from hook.
Round 2: [Inc] 6 times – 12 sc.
Round 3: [Inc, sc in next sc] 6 times – 18 sc.
Round 4: [Inc, sc in next 2 sc] 6 times – 24 sc.
Round 5: [Inc, sc in next 3 sc] 6 times – 30 sc.
Round 6: [Inc, sc in next 4 sc] 6 times – 36 sc.
Round 7: [Inc, sc in next 5 sc] 6 times – 42 sc.
Round 8: [Inc, sc in next 6 sc] 6 times – 48 sc.
Round 9: Sc in each sc around.
Round 10: [Inc, sc in next 7 sc] 6 times – 54 sc.
Round 11: [Inc, sc in next 8 sc] 6 times – 60 sc.
Rounds 12 and 13: Sc in each sc around.
Round 14-Back Leg Openings: Sc in next 3 sc, ch 8,
skip 10 sc, sc in next 2 sc, ch 8, skip 10 sc, sc in next 35
sc –56 sts.
Rounds 15-23: Sc in each ch and sc around – 56 sc.
Round 24-Front Leg Openings: Sc in next 3 sc, ch 8, skip 10 sc, sc in next 2 sc, ch 8, skip 10 sc, sc in next 31 sc – 52 sts.
Round 25: Inc, sc in next 23 sts, inc, sc in next 27 sc – 54 sc.
Rounds 26: Inc, sc in next 24 sts, inc, sc in next 28 sts –56 sc.
Round 27: Sc in each sc around.
Round 28-Neck Opening: Sc in next 39 sc, ch 10, skip 10 sc, sc in next 7 sc – 56 sts.
Round 29: Sc in each ch and sc around – 56 sc. Stuff poodle body as rounds are worked.
Round 30: [Sc in next 6 sc, dec] 7 times – 49 sc.
Round 31: Sc in next sc, [dec, sc in next 4 sc] 8 times –41 sc.
Round 32: Sc in next sc, [dec] 20 times – 21 sc. Continue to stuff body.
Round 33: Sc in next sc, [dec] 10 times – 11 sc.
Round 34: Sc in next sc, [dec] 5 times – 6 sc.
Round 35: [Dec] 3 times – 3 sc.
Fasten off, weaving yarn tail through sc to close hole.

Legs (Make 4)
Round 1: Join B to any st in leg opening; ch 1, sc in each ch and sc around inc 3 sts evenly spaced – 21 sc.
Rounds 2-14: Sc in each sc around, changing to A in the last st of the last round. Fasten off B.
Round 15: With A, slip st loosely at base of each sc
around (this will be the foundation for applying leg pouf).
Round 16: Sc in each sc of Round 14 around – 21 sc.
Stuff upper section of leg. If using plastic pellets to add
weight to poodle, place about ¼ cup in the toe of a kneehigh
stocking, cut and tightly knot. Stuff this into bottom most parts needing extra weight, finish stuffing with
polyester filler.
Round 17: Sc in next sc, [inc, sc in next 4 sc] 4 times – 25 sc.
Round 18: Sc in each sc around.
Round 19: [Inc, sc in next 4 sc] 5 times – 30 sc.
Round 20: [Inc, sc in next 5 sc] 5 times – 35 sc.
Round 21: [Dec, sc in next 5 sc] 5 times – 30 sc.
Round 22: [Dec] 15 times – 15 sc.
Finish stuffing.
Round 23: [Dec] 7 times, sc in next sc – 8 sc.
Round 24: [Dec] 4 times – 4 sc.
Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing. Repeat for other legs.
Pomp-a-Doodle™ yarn is worked in the thread between
the pompons. Do not pull pompons through stitches. See
Red Heart video tutorial at for
more information on working with Pomp-a-Doodle™.

Leg Pouf
Round 1: Join D in any slip st of Round 15; sc in each slip
st around leg.
Round 2: Sc in each sc around. Fasten off.
Neck
Round 1: Attach A to any sc in neck opening; ch 1, sc in
each ch and sc around inc 6 sts evenly spaced – 26 sc.
Rounds 2-7: Sc in each sc around. Fasten off leaving yarn
tail for attaching head.
Ribbed Sweater Collar
Row 1: Ch 7; sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch
across; turn – 6 sc.
Rows 2-21: Ch 1, sc in back loops only in each sc across;
turn. Fasten off leaving long tail for attaching to neck.
Edging: Join D in end of any row of collar; slip st evenly
across row ends (about 12 pompoms). Fasten off.

Tail
With smaller hook and A, ch 4; join with a slip st to form a
ring.
Round 1: Ch 1, 6 sc in ring; do not join; work in continuous
rounds.
Rounds 2-12: Work even in sc. Fasten off A in last sc.
Round 13: Join D in any sc; slip st (1 pompom per slip st)
in each sc around.
Round 14: * 2 Slip sts in next slip st, slip st in next slip st;
repeat from * around.
Round 15: Slip st in every other st around. Fasten off.
Ears (Make 2)
With smaller hook and B, ch 12; join with a slip st to form
a ring.
Round 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch around; do not join – 12 sc.
Rounds 2-6: Sc in each sc around.
Round 7: [Inc, sc in next 5 sc] twice – 14 sc.
Rounds 8 and 9: Sc in each sc around.
Round 10: [Inc, sc in next 6 sc] twice – 16 sc.
Round 11: Sc in each sc around.
Round 12: [Inc, sc in next 7 sc] twice – 18 sc.
Round 13: [Inc, sc in next 8 sc] twice – 20 sc.
Round 14: Sc in each sc around.
Round 15: [Inc, sc in next 9 sc] twice – 22 sc.
Rounds 16 and 17: Sc in each sc around.
Round 18: [Dec, sc in next sc] 7 times, sc in next sc – 15 sc.
Round 19: [Dec, sc in next sc] 5 times – 10 sc.
Round 20: [Dec] 5 times – 5 sc. Fasten off, using long tail
to close hole.

Ear Pouf
Round 1: Starting at the tip of the ear at Round 18, slip st
D into stitches around the ear tip.
Round 2: Slip st in each slip st around. Fill in bare spots
with D as needed. Fasten off.
FINISHING
Sew head, tail, and sweater collar to body as in photo,
using long yarn tails. Make certain parts are securely
attached. Sew ears to head leaving approximately 4”
diameter circle free between ears at top of head.
Locate eye placement. Using black embroidery thread,
sew 3 lines for eyelashes as shown. Attach buttons
securely, overlapping the eyelashes a little OR embroider
eyes if toy is to be used for children under 2 years of age.

Head Pouf
Add after ears have been attached and head has been
sewn to neck.
Round 1: Beginning at the crown of the head where the
ears are attached, with larger hook and B, loosely work
25 slip sts into the sts of the Head in a circle about 4”
diameter. This circle should be placed directly on top of the
head, evenly spaced in conjunction with the ears.
Round 2: With D and larger hook, sc in each st around.
Round 3: Inc, [sc in next sc, inc] 12 times – 38 sc.
Round 4: Sc in next 2 sc, [dec, sc in next 2 sc] 9 times –29 sc.
Round 5: [Dec, sc in next 3 sc] 5 times, dec, sc in last 2 sc – 23 sc.
Round 6: Sc in next sc, [dec] 11 times – 12 sc
Round 7: [Dec] 6 times – 6 sc.
Round 8: [Dec] 3 times – 3 sc. Fasten off.
Ribbon is attached by weaving the tip of the ribbon
between a few D sts, pulling through with even lengths and
tying into a bow. Tighten and trim ends.

Blushed Cheeks
Use dark powder blush and extra large makeup brush or
stencil brush. Load makeup onto brush as if to apply to
face, tapping off excess. Locate cheek area on Head and
apply using a tamping or pouncing motion. To do this, hold
the brush straight and perpendicular to the poodles’ face.
Tap the brush end onto the desired location; do not use
a brushing or sweeping motion. Apply blush in layered
stages until desired effect is achieved.
ABBREVIATIONS: A, B, C, D = color A, B, C, D;
ch = chain; mm = millimeters; sc = single crochet;
st(s) = stitch(es); yo = yarn over; * or ** = repeat whatever
follows the * or ** as indicated; [ ] = work directions in
brackets the number of times specified.

Materials:
Threads any, the main thing is that they are the same thickness. I have Gazzal baby. Spices for your yarn (I have 1.5) Two beads or half-beads for the eye, a strong thread for the tightener.
Legend:
L – facial
Out-of-purity
Prib – increase
Ub – reduction
First we’ll tie up all sorts of trifles.
Step (4 pieces) – you can make all the details in different colors, you can use one color, you can use the lower parts of one, the upper one is different.
We type 5 loops. We knit the facial smoothness with turning rows. Additions I make from broaches or from an overturned cape.
1. 1л, приб, 3л, приб, 1л = 7
And all even – purl
3. 1L, arr, 5л, приб, 1л = 9
5. 1 liter, prib, 7 liters, prib, 1 liter. = 11
Note// All the turning rows (here and in other details) I knit grandmother’s loops. So knitting gets denser
6-12 rows – 11 persons. (7 rows of facial smoothness)
13. 1л, уб, 5л, уб, 1 л = 9
15. 1n, yb, 3n, yb, 1n = 7
17. 1n, yb, 1n, yb, 1n = 5.
18. Close. On two details leave the long ends for stitching. Sew the parts in pairs, filling the netto. Embroider, pulling, fingers.
Note// In knitted toys there is usually no edgeband. That is, all the loops are tied, beginning with the first. But if it is more convenient for you with edgebanding, do not worry, and knit, considering the first and last loops as edge bands.

Amigurumi Multi Colored Puppies Free Pattern

Legs (2 pieces) Dial 12 loops, leaving a long end for sewing to the foot, spread on circular knitting needles, tie 40 rows. Loops close. Fold the edge of the resulting tube flat, sew the edge, cut off the thread, leaving a long end for sewing. We fill the net, the top part can be left empty. And you can and do not stuff. Bottom sewn to the foot. You can knit your legs striped, it’s fashionable to tie “socks” or pants of shorts – 5-6 rows. For the edging of pants and sleeves, we collect 16 loops, we sew 1 row of faces, and in the second we close. You can simply tie a chain of air loops crocheted and sew it on top of the socks or bottom of the pants or tie 5 rows of a semi-patent rubber band with a change of color (1-persons a row of other colors, 2,4-faces., Remove with crochet 3, 5-persons.) Not for the edging of the trousers.

Ladoshki (4 pieces) We knit, like the feet, up to 18 rows inclusive, we do not close, we cut off the thread on two parts, leaving a long end for sewing, on two – we do not break off, we continue to knit further. In knitted toys there is usually no edgeband. That is, all the loops are tied, beginning with the first. But if it is more convenient for you with edgebanding, do not worry, and knit, considering the first and last loops as edge bands. Arms 5 persons, 5 persons on the second part (with a torn thread, we close the loop in a circle, we pass to the circular knitting needles, 5L, we make an increase from the broach, 5 persons, we make from the broach an increase. We compile 28 rows on 12 loops. and sew, tear off the thread, leaving the end for sewing.If you need a sleeve – tie the last 8 rows of blouse color, for the cuff sewn stripes, like on trousers. Ladies sew, stuffing. We embroider fingers, slightly pulling. We stuff the handles, the upper part is weaker, you can leave the last five rows completely empty.Instead of striped cuffs, you can simply tie three rows of garter stitch, but I do not really like how it behaves when padded – it stretches. Maybe it’s just me so). Tail We knit the facial smoothness with turning rows. Type 14 loops 1 row – purl 2 rows – 1л, уб, 8л, уб, 1л = 12 3-5 rows of 12 loops 6 series: 1л, уб, 6л, уб, 1 = 10 7-9 rows – faces smooth 10 10 rows – 1л, уб, 4л, уб, 1 = 8 11-13 – of the faces of the smooth surface 8 14 series – 1n, yb, 2n, yb, 1n = 6 15-16 rows – facial smoothness, the thread is cut off, leaving a long end for sewing and sewing to the body. Pull the end of the thread through the hinges, tighten, sew the tail, fill. On the ears you can cheer, bind them, for example, with ornament, double knitting. On one of the dogs I have hearts loosened. Ears (4 parts) Dial 7 loops. We knit the facial smoothness with turning rows. 1 row – 1л, приб, 5л, приб, 1л = 9 2 and all even – purl. 3 rows – 1n, arr, 7l, arr, 1n = 11 5 rows – 1L, arr, 9l, arr, 1n = 13 6-8 rows – facial smoothness. If you want ears more authentic – add here a couple of rows. 9 rows – 1л, уб, 7л, уб, 1 = 11 10-13 – facial surface 14 rows – 1л, уб, 5л, уб, 1л = 9 15-17 – facial smoothness Instead of striped cuffs, you can simply tie three rows of garter stitch, but I do not really like how it behaves when padded – it stretches. Maybe it’s just me so). On the ears you can cheer, bind them, for example, with ornament, double knitting. On one of the dogs I have hearts loosened. 18 series – 1л, уб, 3л, уб, 1л = 7 19-23 – facial smoothness. Close. On the two parts leave the long end of the thread for stitching and sewing. Steaming off the ears after stitching.

Nose We knit the front face with turning rows Dial 3 loops. 1. ln, arr, ln, arr, ln = 5 2. Wrong 3. 1L, prib, 3 liters, prib, 1L. = 7 4. purl 5. 1L, arr, 5L, arr, 1L. = 9 6-10 – facial smoothness 11 series of 1n, yb, 3n, yb, 1n = 7; 12th row – Reliable 13 series – 1n, yb, 1n, yb, 1n = 5; 14th row – Reliable 15 rows – 1L, 3 together persons, 1L = 3. The thread is torn off leaving a long end for sewing. Sew it in the remaining loops, tighten. Body Collect 8 loops color panties, leaving a long end for sewing holes, close in a circle. 1. (1л, приб) х8 = 16 2 and all even – just to hang the loops, no extra increases and deductions. 3 – (2л, приб) х8 = 24 5- (3л, приб) х8 = 32 7 – (4л, приб) х8 = 40 9 – (5л, приб) х8 = 48 11 – (6л, приб) х8 = 56 12- 19 rows – 56L Now we fix the ass. 20 -1l уб, 50л, уб, 1л = 54 21-22 – facial smoothness. 23 – 1л, уб, 48л, уб, 1л = 52 24-25 – facial smoothness 26 – 1л, уб, 46л, уб, 1л = 50 28 – 1л, уб, 44л, уб, 1л = 48 30 – (6л, уб) х6 = 42 Change the color to the color of the shirt. 31 – 51 21 face series 52 -12л, уб, 2л, уб, 6л, уб, 2л, уб, 12 = 38 54 -8л, уб, 18 уб, 8л = 36 55 – 57 – 36L 58 – (4л, уб) х6 = 30 60 – (3л, уб) х6 = 24 62 – (1л, уб) х8) = 16 63-67 – five rows of facial (3 rows of color blouses, 2 rows – change color to the color of the head). The body is full. We do not tear off the thread, we continue to knit our head. Head 68 – (2л, приб) х8 = 24 70 – (3л, приб) х8 = 32 72 – (4л, приб) х8 = 40 74 – (5л, приб) х8 = 48 76 – 20L, Prib, 1L, Prib, 6L, Prib, 1L, Prib, 20n = 52 78 – 21л, приб, 1л, приб, 8л, приб, 1л, приб, 21л = 56 80 – 23L, Prib, 10L, Prib, 23L = 58 82 – 24l, prib, 10l, prib, 24 = 60 84 – 25l, prib, 10l, prib, 25n = 62 86 – 26L, Prib, 10l, Prib, 26 = 64 We untangle the muzzle 88 – 27л + 9л, уб, поворот, 1 loop to remove, 8us, 2 together, turn = 63 * (1 loop to take off, 8L, 2 together, turn. If you want the muzzle to be of a different color, a group of loops starting from 1L to 1L is knitted with a different color. How to do it – I’ll tell you later, but now the basic description. 1 remove the loop, 8L, 2 together, turn) * x7raz On the spokes will not remain 48 loops, turn, and we finish the series until the end. 90 – 91 -48L 92 – 14л, (приб, 4) х5, приб, 14 = 54 93-103 – 11 rows of facial 104 – (7л, уб) х6 = 48 106 – (6л, уб) х6 = 42 108 – (5л, уб,) = 36 110 – (4л, уб) = 30 112 – (3л, уб) = 24 114 – (2л, уб) х6 = 18

Head to fill, especially carefully fill the muzzle, giving it the right shape. 116 – (1л, уб) = 12 118 – 6уб, tear off the thread, extend the tip through loops, tighten, fasten and hide. Now I’ll tell you how to connect the muzzle with another color. We will knit by intarsia. It differs from jacquard in that when a jacquard thread is stretched from the wrong side, with intarsia, each colored area is knit from the other tangle. At us color sites two, and they are connected from two parties. So, we will knit with turning rows. 1. When you twist the threads of different colors you need to cross, you can even double. 2. We loop the first loop after the turn, but do not remove it. 3. We tighten the thread after the rotation as tightly as possible. 4. After knitting the colored section, the thread is cut off with a stock that can be useful, if holes are formed at the places where the color changes.

A dog in red panties, with a narrow strip on his forehead So, there is a color A – a muzzle and color B – a head. I draw your attention to the fact that the next part of the description is given on two lines at once, but we will knit by parts, now and then turning knitting. So, each paragraph is two lines, you do not need to tie up additional rows. It is convenient to knit if the hinges of color A are on a separate spoke. (B) 19 a, (A), 14 rel., Turn (B) 19n = (B) 19L, (A) 1L, prib, 1n, prib, 6l, 52 (A) 18 rel., Rotation, 19L, (A), A, B, = 56 80-81 – (B) 19L, (A) 4L, arr, 10l, arr, 4l, turn, (B) 38 out, (A) 20 out, turn (B) 19L = 58 82-83 – (B) 19L, (A) 5L arr, 10l, arr, 5l, turn, 38 out, (A) 22 out, turn, (B) 19 liters. = 60 (B) 19 L, (A) 6L, arr, 10l, arr, 6l, turn, (B) 38 out, (A) 24 out, turn (B) 19 L = 62 86-87 – (B) 19L, (A) 7L, arr, 10l, arr, 7l, turn, (B) 38 out, (A) 26 out, turn, 19 L = 64 We untangle the muzzle 88-89 – (B) 19l (A) (from here we knit only with a thread (A), but we do not break the thread (B)! 8n + 9n, yb, turn, 1 remove the loop, 8in, 2 together, turn = 63 * (1 loop to take off, 8L, 2 together, turn 1 remove the loop, 8L, 2 together, turn) * x6 times (A) 1 remove the loop, 8L, 2 together, turn (B) 38 out, (A) 9L, 2 together, turn (B) 19 persons (B) 19 persons, (A) 10 persons, turn, (B) 1 from the beginning, about 4 out of, about, 28 out of, about, 4 out, about, 1 in, turn (A) 10 out, turn. (B) 21l. (B) 21 liters, (A) 3l, arr, 4l, arr, 3l, turn. (B) 42in, (A) 12 out, turn, (B) 21L (B) 23n, (A) 8n, turn, (B) 46in, (A) 8 out, turn, (B) 23 l (B) 24L, (A) 6L, turn, 48 out, (A) 6syn, turn, 24 persons. (B) 25L, (A) 1L, YB, 1L, turn, (B) 50 out, (A) 3in, turn, (B) 25 persons (B) 25л, (А) 3л, turn, (B) 50 изн, (А) 3изн, turn, (В) 25 persons – repeat 2 more times. (B) 26L, (A) 1L, (B) 26L. The thread (A) is torn off, leaving a long end to sew up holes (if образо formed) 104 – (7 persons, уб) х2, 8 persons + 7 persons (уб, 7 persons) х2, уб = 48 (we have already reduced one loop when tying a strip on the forehead) 106 – (6л, уб) х6 = 42 108 – (5л, уб,) = 36 110 – (4л, уб) = 30 112 – (3л, уб) = 24 114 – (2л, уб) х6 = 18 Head to fill, especially carefully fill the muzzle, giving it the right shape. 116 – (1л, уб) = 12 118 – 6ub. Thread through the remaining loops, donate the head, pull off the hole, fasten and hide the thread.

Extension. Insert the needle behind the base of the neck, remove the muzzle and head at the junction, retreat to put on the bead, insert the needle back, lead to 1-2 loops away from the thread entrance point. Pull back the bead by about half. If the eyes are glued, then do the operation without a bead, stepping back 1-2 hinges on the muzzle from the exit. Polubusinku or other glazik paste in the resulting groove. Do the same with the second eye. If the transition from the head to the muzzle itself seems not bright enough, you can insert the needle into the neck from behind, withdraw it in the right eye socket, insert it on the left into the neck, return to the neck and pull it together. The thread in this case is better to take the colors of the muzzle.

Assembly: Sew ears, paws, tail, spout. When sewing a tail, try on it to be a support when sitting. Ljamochki to panties. We type 25 loops, we knit 1 row face, in the second row close. Breast to panties. We type 60 loops, we knit 1 row of faces, in the second row we close 22 loops, 16 l, leave these loops unclosed, the other loops are closed. The thread is cut off, leaving the end for sewing. We attach the thread to 16 loops. We knit: 1 row – 1 edge, 14 faces, 1 edge 2 rows – 1 edge, 2 faces, 10us, 2 persons, 1 chrome. We knit these two rows until we reach the desired height. We impose three rows of facial, in the 4th row close. We sew the belt to the line of color change. Sew the buttons to the small bags, while attaching to the breast. Sew the laces in front. (We sew on the back later, so you can stretch your little breeches.) You can sew them together side-by-side or crosswise). Belt of panties. We type 60 loops, we knit 1 row with facial, in the second row we close.

Supplies:
cotton yarn – I used worsted (10 ply) weight Rowan Handknit Cotton (50 g / 85 m) – beige, white, brown, dark red, light red
crochet hook 3.5 mm
polyester fiberfill
some felt for making the eyes (white, blue, black)
button for the dress
Abbreviations:
ch – chain, sl st – slip stitch, sc – single crochet, dc – douple crochet, rep – repeat
WORK IN CONTINUOUS ROUNDS. DO NOT JOIN OR TURN UNLESS OTHERWISE INSTRUCTED.
IT WOULD BE WISE TO USE A STITCH MARKER AND PLACE IT IN THE FIRST STITCH OF EACH ROUND TO MARK THE BEGINNING OF IT.
LEAVE EACH PIECE A LONG TAIL FOR SEWING.

Amigurumi Lotte From Gadgetville Dog Girl Free Pattern

HEAD
Crochet from front to back.
1: Beige. Magic ring and 6 sc into it.
2: Work 2 sc in each st around = 12
3: (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 18
4: (sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 24
5: (sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 30
6: (sc in each of next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 36
7: (sc in each of next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 42
8-19: Sc in each st around
20: (sc in each of next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 48
21: (sc in each of next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 54
22-26: Sc in each st around
27: (sc in each of next 7 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times = 48
28: Sc in each st around
29: (sc in each of next 6 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times = 42
30: Sc in each st around
31: (sc in each of next 5 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times = 36
32: Sc in each st around
33: (sc in each of next 4 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times = 30
34: (sc in each of next 3 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times = 24
35: (sc in each of next 2 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times = 18
36: (sc in next st, sc2tog) rep 6 times = 12
37: (sc2tog) rep 6 times = 6
Close the hole.

NOSE
1: Brown. Magic ring and 6 sc into it.
2: Work 2 sc in each st around = 12
3: (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 18
4: Sc in each st around
Add a little bit of stuffing and sew it into the proper place.
Cut the eyes from the felt and sew on. Stitch a mouth.

EAR (make 2)
1: Light red. Magic ring and 6 sc into it.
2: Work 2 sc in each st around = 12
3: (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 18
4: (sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 24
5: (sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 30
6-10: Sc in each st around
11: (sc in each of next 8 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times = 27
12: (sc in each of next 7 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times = 24
13: Sc in each st around
14: (sc in each of next 6 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times = 21
15: Sc in each st around
16: (sc in each of next 5 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times = 18
17-18: Sc in each st around
19: (sc in each of next 4 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times = 15
20-21: Sc in each st around
22: (sc in each of next 3 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times = 12
23-24: Sc in each st around
25: (sc in each of next 2 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times = 9
26: Sc in each st around
Attach the ears into the right place and make a hair tuft from the same color of yarn.

BODY
1: White. Magic ring and 6 sc into it.
2: Work 2 sc in each st around = 12
3: (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 18
4: (sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 24
5: (sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 30
6: (sc in each of next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 36
7: (sc in each of next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 42
8: (sc in each of next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 48
9-14: Sc in each st around
15: (sc in each of next 6 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times = 42
16-18: Sc in each st around
19: (sc in each of next 5 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times = 36
20-21: Sc in each st around
22: (sc in each of next 4 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times = 30
23-24: Sc in each st around
25: (sc in each of next 3 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times = 24
26: Sc in each st around
27-28: Beige. Sc in each st around

LEG (make 2)
1: Brown. Magic ring and 6 sc into it.
2: (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) rep 3 times = 9
3: (sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 3 times = 12
4: (sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 3 times = 15
5: (sc in each of next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 3 times = 18
6: Sc in each st around
7: (sc in each of next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 3 times = 21
8-9: Sc in each st around
10: (sc in each of next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 3 times = 24
11-13: Sc in each st around
14: Turn. Starting from the next st sc in each of next 18 sts (the rest of the sts are left out of the work at the moment)
15: Turn. Starting from the next st sc in each of next 16 sts
16: Turn. Starting from the next st sc in each of next 14 sts
17: Turn. Starting from the next st sc in each of next 12 sts
18: Turn. Starting from the next st sc in each of next 10 sts
19: Turn. Starting from the next st sc in each of next 8 sts
20: Turn. Starting from the next st sc in each of next 6 sts
21: Hereafter work in continuous rounds! Turn. Start from the next st and pick up 24 sts.
22: (sc in each of next 6 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times = 21
23: (sc in each of next 5 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times = 18
24: Beige. (sc in each of next 4 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times = 15
25: Sc in each st around
26: (sc in each of next 3 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times = 12
27-46: Sc in each st around
47: (sc in each of next 2 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times = 9

ARM (make 2)
1: Beige. Magic ring and 6 sc into it.
2: Work 2 sc in each st around = 12
3: (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 18
4: (sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 24
5-6: Sc in each st around
7: (sc in each of next 2 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times = 18
8: (sc in each of next 4 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times = 15
9: Sc in each st around
10: (sc in each of next 3 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times = 12
11-12: Sc in each st around
13: Sc in each of next 10 sts, sc2tog = 11
14-16: Sc in each st around
17: Sc in each of next 9 sts, sc2tog = 10
18-23: Sc in each st around
24-28: White. Sc in each st around
29: Sc in each of next 8 sts, sc2tog = 9
30: Sc in each st around
Attach the head to the body. Sew arms and legs to the proper place.

DRESS
1: Ch 38. Starting from the 3rd st from hook make sc in each st = 36
2: Turn, ch 2. Starting from the same st dc in each of next 5 sts, (2 dc in the next st, dc in the next 4 sts) rep 5 times, 2 dc in the next st, dc in each of next 5 sts = 42
3: Turn, ch 2. Dc in each st
4: Turn, ch 2. Starting from the same st (dc in each of next 5 sts, 2 dc in the next st) rep 3 times, dc in each of next 6 sts, (dc in each of next 5 sts, 2 dc in the next st) rep 3 times = 48
5: Turn, ch 2. Dc in each st
6: Turn, ch 2. Starting from the same st (dc in each of next 6 sts, 2 dc in the next st) rep 6 times, dc in each of next 6 sts = 54
7: Turn, ch 2. Dc in each st
Cut the yarn. For making the straps, take the dress in front of you narrow edge on the top.
Count 13 sts from the right side to the left and bring the yarn through the next st.
Make 1 sc in the same and in the next st. (Turn, ch 1. Sc in each of next 2 sts) rep 11 times. Cut the yarn.
Make the second strap just like the first one, leaving 6 sts between them.
Border the dress with sc.
Attach the straps to the back side of the dress with a couple of sts.
Make a button hole and sew on a button.

Scottish terrier
Here I will share with you how I made my Scottish terrier, Buster.
Buster is roughly 30 cm long and 25 cm tall, but the final size is dependant on factors
such as the thickness of the yarn and what size hook you’ve used, so it might vary
somewhat.
I will say right off the bat that English isn’t my first language, so apologies for any
mistakes or weird phrasings…
I’m going to assume that you are familiar with basic (US) terms and how to make a
magic circle. If you don’t, try for instance YouTube, where you can find many useful
tutorials.

Required materials
• Yarn. I used ca 140 g of acrylic yarn. You can use something else if you prefer,
just remember that cotton yarn doesn’t work as it can’t be brushed out. Just
about any acrylic or wool (or a mix with either of these) should work. It’s a
bonus if the yarn is soft and splits ends easily. The tighter it is spun, the harder
you will work at later stages.
• Crochet hook. I used a size 3.5 mm. If needed, change size to suit your yarn of
choice. You shouldn’t see gaps in your work.
• A suitable needle for sewing the parts together.
• Filling. I buy cheap pillows aty IKEA and other stores and use their filling.
• Safety nose and eyes, unless you want to embroider those details.
• A slicker brush. You can find one in a pet store if needed – get a heavy duty
dog one, not a measly rabbit brush.
• Patience. And lots of it.
The process
You can divide the making of Buster into four main parts. First off you will crochet all
body parts and assemble them. Next is to attach the fur, which in my opinion is the
most boring part. Last the fur will be brushed, clipped and styled. After that you’re
done!

Amigurumi Crochet Dog Scottish Terrier Free Pattern

Part 1: The body parts
Let’s get started! Time to crochet, and how. All parts are done in a continous spiral.
Make the following body parts:

Head
Row 1: Make a magic circle of 6 sc
Row 2: Inc in every sc around (12)
Row 3: [1 sc, 1 inc] around (18)
Row 4: [2 sc, 1 inc] around (24)
Row 5 – 14: sc around (24)
Row 15: [1 Inc] 6 times in a row (so first 6 sc = 12 sc), then 1 sc around (30)
Row 16: sc around (30)
Row 17: [1 inc] 6 times in a row, 1 sc around (36)
Row 18 – 25: sc around (36)
Row 26: [4 sc, Dec in next] around (30)
Row 27: [3 sc, Dec in next] around (24)
Row 28: [2 sc, Dec in next] around (18)
Now might be a good time to start adding the filling… and attach the eyes and nose,
if you’re using safety ones!
Row 29: [1 sc, Dec in next] around (12)
Row 30: Dec around, sew together the opening (after adding the last of the filling).
Leave a long tail.
The head should resemble an elongated thingie with a clear forehead (called a stop in
dog circles), marked as ”upp” here. Not unlike a misshapen baguette.

Ears (make 2)
Row 1: Make a magic circle of 4 sc (4)
Row 2: 1 sc, then Inc, repeat once (6)
Row 3: 2 sc, then Inc, repeat once (8)
Row 4: 3 sc, then Inc, repeat once (10)
Row 5: 4 sc, then Inc, repeat once (12)
Row 6: 5 sc, then Inc, repeat once (14)
Row 7: sc around (14)
Finish off, leaving long tail. Do not add filling.
The ears should be triangular, a bit elongated and flat.

Body
Row 1: Make a magic circle of 6 sc
Row 2: Inc in every sc around (12)
Row 3: [1 sc, 1 inc] around (18)
Row 4: [2 sc, 1 inc] around (24)
Row 5: [3 sc, 1 inc] around (30)
Row 6: [4 sc, 1 inc] around (36)
Row 7: [5 sc, 1 inc] around (42)
Row 8: [6 sc, 1 inc] around (48)
Row 9-15:sc around (48)
Row 16: Now we are going to Dec 1 by each row, always when starting a new row,
followed by sc around the rest. So row 16 will end with 47 sc, row 17 ends with 46 sc
etc. Continue doing this until…
Row 30: Dec 1, sc around (32)
Row 31: Stop decreasing! Sc around (32)
Row 32-46: sc around (32)
Row 47: 15 sc, Dec – repeat once (30)
Row 48: [3 sc, Dec] around (24)
Row 49: [2 sc, Dec] around (18)
Now might be a good time to add the filling.
Row 50: [1 sc, Dec] around (12)
Row 51: Dec around, add last of filling and sew together. Sew in tail.
You should now have an elongated shape with a clear ribcage. The thick end goes
towards the head (labelled ”huvud”) and the thin is the butt. The plane side is the
back and the angled is the underside.
Neck
Row 1: Chain 18, close with a sl st. Try to save a long tail (ie. start further down on
the yarn than you would otherwise).
Row 2-10: Inc 1 at start of every row, then sc around. So row 2 has 19 sc, row 3 has
20 etc. Do this until row 10 when you should have 27 sc. Finish off, saving long tail.
You should now have an elongated, slightly triangular tube. The thinner part goes to
the head (”upp”). The ”point” goes down towards the front of the chest (not the back
– ”rygg”).

Legs (make 4)
Row 1: Make a magic circle of 6 sc
Row 2: Inc in every sc around (12)
Row 3: [1 sc, 1 inc] around (18)
Row 4-19: sc around (18)
Add filling but save a bit of room at the top of each leg. Flatten and sew the opening
together. Leave a long tail.
You should have four feeties.
Tail
Row 1: Make a magic circle of 4 sc (4)
Row 2: 1 sc, then Inc, repeat once (6)
Row 3: 2 sc, then Inc, repeat once (8)
Row 4: 3 sc, then Inc, repeat once (10)
Row 5: sc around (10)
Row 6: 4 sc, then Inc, repeat once (12)
Row 7-10: sc around (12)
Add a bit of filling to the tail but not too much, it shouldn’t look fat. Leave a long yarn
tail.

Part 2: Assembly
Time to sew all the parts together!
For the neck – start with attaching the larger end to the body. Add filling. Now fold the
top end of the neck portion in a bit, so you will actually sew into the 2nd or 3rd row
rather than the first. This gives a bit of extra stability. Try to make the head–neck–
body transition as seamless as you can, it’s a bit tricky. Stop and check now and then
how it’s coming along.
The hind legs are angled back while the frontlegs are straight under the body.
Remember to put the frontlegs fairly far forward, a scotty shouldn’t have a lot of
forechest.
Make sure to attach all parts well! You will work hard when brushing out the fur and
it’s not fun if the parts start to fall off.
If you are going to embroider the nose and eyes, now is a good time. When I made
my Scotty I did this as the very last step and it was a total mess, the newly brushed
and trimmed fur did everything in its power to be in the way as I was working the
needle.
It should look something like this…
(translation: Spets = point, Smal = thin, Raka = Straight, Vinklade = angled)

Part 3: Attaching fur
Now it’s time to cut approx. 5 billion strands of yarn, each ca 7-10 cm long. I usually
fold the yarn so I can cut several strands at once – saving me time – and then attach
them before cutting new ones. Gives you a little bit of variation at least.
When attaching the strands, pull your crochet hook under a chosen stitch on your dog.
Now fold the strand into an U-shaped loop. Then use the crochet hook to pull the loop
under the stitch before pulling the yarn ends through the loop, securing it to the
stitch. It sounds a lot more complicated than it is!
Add a strand to every (or just about every. Most of them, at any rate) stitch on the
sides and undersides of the muzzle, as eyebrows, on the front side of the chest, on
the legs except the undersides and the underside of the body. Yes, it takes forever.
Put on a good movie (or five).

Part 4: Brushing and trimming
Go get your (potentially new and shiny) slicker brush and now brush all the attached
strands until they become beautifully fluffy and fur-like. Don’t be afraid to use hard
strokes, depending on your yarn it might take a while. The brush will collect some fluff
that you need to remove now and then, it can be saved as ultra soft filling if you wish.
(Don’t forget to protect the eyes and nose while using the brush close to them. The
brush can damage the plastic or your beautiful embroidened details)
The ”smooth” parts aren’t intended to be brushed. But feel free to do so if you want a
more ”ragged” look.
When you have brushed all the fur it’s time for the most fun part – time to play dog
groomer!

I recommend to start by googling some photos of Scottish terriers, to get an idea of
what it should look like. But in short form the beard so it has a nice gradual look
towards the skull, fix up the eyebrows a bit. Remove quite a bit from the frontchest, it
should have an almost straight line from the throat and down to the ground. Even the
legs out all around (don’t forget to check what they look like from below) but try to
leave the body fur long, just even it out. Keep alternating between brushing and
trimming until you’re satisfied.
Now your doggie is aaalmost done. But he deserves a collar, don’t you think? Thought
so.
I made mine using a cotton blend, to make it appear different from the coat. Pick a
suitable clour and do a chain of around 35 (double check to see if this fits your dog,
since it might be a different size from mine). Chain 2 extra, turn. Now hdc to the end.
Repeat once more (chain 2, turn, hdc to the end) or until you’re satisfied with the
width. Don’t forget to save a long tail.
Now take the colour for the ”ID-badge”. Do a magic circle of 6, then Inc around (12).

Finish with a sl st. Now chain 12 and then a sl st back into the badge, so you have a
nice little loop attachment.
Thread the collar through the loop, then put on the dog and sew the ends together.
NOW you are done! Congrats, you have made your very own Scotty!

NOTES:

• This pattern is worked in continuous rounds (do not join rounds unless specified)
• Using the mentioned yarn, the Pug measures about 3 x 2.3 inches (8 x 6 cm)
• If you would like a smaller or larger Pug, you can use a different yarn and a different hook size.

Amigurumi Pug Crochet Free Pattern

EYES (x 2):

Using Black
R1: Magic ring, 6 ch in ring (6)
Break the yarn and leave a long strand.
Insert the safety eyes in the middle of the circles.

HEAD:

Using Black
R1: Magic ring, 6 ch in ring (6)
R2: * sc, 2sc * 3 times (9)
R3: * sc in next 2 st, 2sc * 3 times (12)
R4: even (12)
Change color (Sisal)
R5: * sc, 2sc * 6 times (18)
R6: * sc in next 2 st, 2sc * 6 times (24)
R7-10: 4 rows even (24)
Attach the eyes between R5 and R6
Hide one strand of each black circle into the head, and insert the other strand between R7 and R8. Bind the strands together inside the head
and tie with a knot.
R11: * sc in next 2 st, sc2tog * 6 times (18)
R12: * sc, sc2tog * 6 times (12)
R13: * sc, sc2tog * 4 times (8)
Break the yarn, insert stuffing and fasten off.

EARS (x 2):

Using Black
R1: Ch5, sc in 2° ch from hook, sc in next 3 st, turn (4)
R2: Ch1, even, turn (4)
R3: Ch1, skip 1° st, st in next 3 st, turn (3)
R4: Ch1, skip 1° st, sc in next 2 st, turn (2)
R5: Ch1, skip 1° st, sc in last st.
Break the yarn and leave a long strand.
Pass the thread on each ear’s top through the side of the ear.
Attach the ears to the head.

FRONT LEGS (x 2):

Using Sisal
R1: Magic ring, 6 ch in ring (6)
R2: * sc, 2sc * 3 times (9)
R3: Back loops only, even (9)
R4: * sc, sc2tog * 3 times (6)
R5-8: 4 rows even (6)
Break the yarn and fasten off.
Insert stuffing.

BODY:

 Using Sisal
R1: Magic ring, 6 ch in ring (6)
R2: 2sc in each ch (12)
R3: * sc, 2sc * 6 times (18)
R4. * sc in next 2st, 2sc * 6 times (24)
R5: * sc in next 3 st, 2sc * 6 times (30)
R6-8: 3 rows even (30)
R9: * sc in next 3 st, sc2tog * 6 times (24)
R10: sc in next 18 st, sc in next 5 st of the first front leg, skip 1 st of the body, sc in next 5 st of the second front leg, skip 1 st of the body, sc
in next 2 st of the body (32)
R11-12: 2 rows even (32)
R13: * sc in next 3 st, sc2tog * 6 times, sc in next 2 st (26)
R14: * sc in next 2 st, sc2tog * 6 times, sc in next 2 st (20)
R15: * sc, sc2tog * 6 times, sc in next 2 st (14)
R16: even (14)
Break the yarn and leave a long strand.
Insert stuffing.

HIND LEGS (x 2)

Using Sisal
R1-4: same as front legs
R5: even (6)
Break the yarn and leave a long strand.
Insert stuffing.

TAIL:

Using Sisal
R1: Ch8, sc in 2° ch from hook, sc in next 2 st, 2sc, sc in next 3 st.
Break the yarn and leave a long strand.

ASSEMBLY:

 – Attach the head to the body. 
– With a strand of Sisal, close the gaps between the body and the front legs.
– Attach the hind legs to the body.
– Attach the tail to the body.

Amigurumi Cute Dog Free Pattern

Materials:
Worsted yarn: Yellow – body, head, hands and feet, red
– a tie and hat, Black – a small amount for the nose, mouth and for stitching.
hook 4.5 mm
– hook 3.5 mm
filler.
– needle for stitching.
-Para ready peephole with a diameter of 12 mm.
Size of the toy: Approximately 13 cm sitting.
Conditional dungeons: in – the air loop sn – column with a crochet
psn – polustolbik with a crochet sbn – a column without a crochet
ss – connecting column reduction – 2 loops to be tied together
the increase is 2bn in 1 loop
Head
hook 4,5 m, yellow yarn.
1: 2in, 6sbn in the second from the hook loop (6)
2: 6 increments (12)
3: (1сбн, the increase) on a circle (18)
4: (2сбн, increment) in a circle (24)
5-12: 24 sb (24)
13: (3sbn, increase) in a circle (30)
14: (3ps, 12cb) x2 (30)
15: 6 сбн, (2псн, the increase) х6, 6сбн (36)
16: (increase, 3bn) х3,12пссн, (increase, 3сбн) х3 (42) 17-22: 42 сбн (42)
23: (5сбн, убавка) in a circle (36)
24: 36 sb (36)
25: (4сбн, убавка) in a circle (30)
26: (3сбн, убавка) in a circle (24)
27: 24 sb (24)
28: (2сбн, убавка) in a circle, сс (18) Finish, leaving the long end of the yarn.
Ears (2)
hook 4,5 m, yellow yarn.
1: 2in, 6sbn in the second from the hook loop (6) 2: (2cb, increment) in a circle (8)
3: 3сбн, (the increase) х2, 3сбн (10)
4:10 sb (10)
5: (1sbn, increase) in a circle (15)
6-7: 15 sb (15)
8: (2cb, increase) in a circle (20)
9-10: 20 sbn (20)
11: (3sbn, increase) in a circle (25)
12: 25 sb (25)
13: (4сбн, the increase) on a circle (30)
14-15: 30 sb (30)
16: (4сбн, убавка) in a circle (25)
17-19: 25 сбн, сс (25) To finish, leaving
the long end of the yarn.

Nose

hook 3,5m, black yarn.

1: 2in, 6sbn in the second from the hook loop (6) 2: 6 increments (12)

3: (increase) х3, 3сбн, (increase) х3, reduction (3 loops together), сс.

Finish by leaving the long end of the yarn.

Eyelids (2)

Link a chain of 5 loops, hook 4,5m, yellow

yarn.

Body

hook 4,5 m, yellow yarn.

1-4: repeat 1-4 rows for the head (24)

5: (3sbn, increase) in a circle (30)

6: (4сбн, the increase) on a circle (36)

7: (5sbn, increase) in a circle (42)

8-10: 42 sbn (42)

11: (5сбн, убавка) in the circle (36)

12-16: 36 sb (36)

17: (4сбн, убавка) in a circle (30)

18-29: 30 sb (30)

30: (3сбн, уба) for a round (24)

31: 24 sb (24)

32: (2сбн, уба) for a round, сс (24)

Finish the work, leaving the long end of the yarn.

Wigs (2)

hook 4,5 m, yellow yarn.

1-3: repeat 1-3 rows of head (18)

4: (2сбн, the increase) х4, (2пссн, the increase) х2 (24)

5-7: 24 sb (24)

8: (2сбн, убавка) in a circle (18)

9: 18 sb (18)

10: (1сбн, убавка) in a circle (12)

11-20: 12 sbn (12)

21: (increase) х2, 1сбн in each loop in a circle (14) 22-28: 14 сбн, сс (14) To finish, leaving

long end of yarn

Hand (2)

hook 4,5 m, yellow yarn.

1-3: repeat 1-3 rows of head (18)

4-7: 18 sbn (18)

8: (1сбн, убавка) in a circle (12)

9: 12 sb (12)

10: Decrease, 1 sb in each loop in a circle (11) 11-15: 11 sb (11)

16: increase, 1 sb in each loop in a circle (12) 17-26: 12 sb, ss (12)

Tail

hook 4,5mm, yellow yarn.

1: 2in, 4sbn in the second from the hook loop.
2: arr, 1сбн in each loop in a circle (5)
3: приб, 1сбн в

each loop in a circle (6)

4: arr, 1сбн in each loop in a circle (7)

5: prib, 1sbn in each loop in a circle (8)

6: arr, 1сбн in each loop in a circle, приб (10) 7-16: 10 сбн, сс (10)

Finish by leaving the long end of the yarn. Tie

Red yarn, hook 4,5m

1: 7вп, 1сбн in the second from a hook a loop, turn (6)

2-4: in, 1сбн in each loop, turn (6) 5: вп, decrease, 2сбн, decrease, turn (4п)

6: in, knit by the front wall, 1sb in each loop, turn (4)

7-11: Bn, 1bn in each loop, turn (4) 12: prib, 1sbn in each loop, prib (6)

13-14: in, 1сбн in each loop, turn (6) 15: вп, приб, 4ббн, приб, поворот (8)

16: in, 1сбн in each loop, turn (8) 17: вп, decrease, 4сбн, decrease, turn (6) 18: вп, decrease,

2cb, decrease, turn (4) 19: in, (decrease), x2 turn (2)

20: in: do not turn, do not turn.

21: slip into each loop around the tie, ss, thread secure, leaving the long end of the yarn.

Sew to decorate the buttons in the form of hearts.

Using the needle and the red yarn, assemble the loops in the 6th row, as in the photo. Assemble the node from the back

hand tie. Collar for tie

Red yarn, hook 4,5m

1: 19Bp, snr in the third from the hook loop and then into each loop of the row.

Finish by leaving the long end of the yarn. Wrap

detail around the neck. Sew the ends to the tie.

Cap

hook 4,5m

1-6: knit the rows 1-6 as the body (36)

7-9: 36 sb (36)

10: (4сбн, убавка) in a circle (30)

11: 10сбн, turn (further knit on these 10-and loops for a visor)

12-13: in, 1сбн in each loop, turn (10) 14: вп, decrease, 6сбн, decrease (8)

15: in, decrease, 4bn, decrease (6)

16: in, 1 in each loop, do not turn.

17: Go to each loop around the hat, cc, thread secure

More Amigurumi Dog Ideas:

Amigurumi Meet the Cuddle Me Puppy Free Pattern

Want to share this pattern? Do not copy. You can use one photo and provide a link back to the pattern.
Supplies:
1 roll of Red Heart Comfort yarn or 2 rolls of Red Heart Super Saver.
For the white puppy pictured I used 1 full roll of Super Saver (364 yrds) to make the head, body, arms, muzzle, and eyelids. I used a small amount of the 2nd roll to make the legs.
A small amount of an alternate color to make the ears, tail, and paw pads. Small amount of yarn for nose. Important: This pattern will be difficult to do if you use a cotton yarn, I strongly recommend an acrylic, however, if you want to try it in miniature than a cotton will work fine. This pattern requires a tighter tension when decreasing the neck area and last few rows of the body so an acrylic will be much easier on your hands.
With the yarns I used, a 4.25mm hook
blunt end yarn needle for sewing
scissors

Eyes: you can use buttons, felt, paint, safety eyes or crochet them. It’s up to you. I used 20mm safety eyes on the pups pictured. You can even go bigger, I think larger eyes would be cute but I didn’t have any larger ones.
20 ounce bag of polyester stuffing. You will use most of it.

Abbreviations:
st = stitch
sc = single crochet
ch1 = chain one
sl st = slip stitch
2tog = crochet 2 stitches together
BLO = back loops only
FLO = front loops only
f/o = finish off
Read me ~> 

How to read the rows: Each row has a sequence as given below. Example: 1sc then 2sc in next st means repeat that sequence 1sc then 2sc in next st followed by 1sc then 2sc in next st over and over to the end of that particular row. The number inside the parentheses ( ~ ) is the number of stitches you should have at the end of that particular row.

EYES: Placements are up to you since it’s personal preference. I put the white puppy’s eyes in between the 15th and 16th row, and the grey puppy eyes are in between the 16th and 17th. Both have about 9 visible stitch holes between them. (I counted the stitch holes under the felt piece).
If you plan on making a patch for the one eye, then just attach the one eye. The 2nd eye gets attached to the patch itself and that is sewn on after the puppy is stuffed and closed. See assembly instructions, link to assembly page is at the bottom of this pattern.

Starting at the top of the head working down to bottom of body:
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
6) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
7) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (42)
8) 1sc in next 6st then 2sc in next st (48)
9) 1sc in next 7st then 2sc in next st (54)
10-15) 1sc in each st for 6 rows
16) 1sc in next 8st then 2sc in next st (60)
17) 1sc in each st for 1 row
18) 1sc in next 9st then 2sc in next st (66)
19-25) 1sc in each st for 7 rows
*add the safety eyes before you continue on
26) 1sc in next 9st then 2tog (60)
*if you start to see gaps while you decrease then try the inv dec by crocheting in the front loops only when crocheting 2tog.
27) 1sc in each st for 1 row
28) 1sc in next 8st then 2tog (54)
29) 1sc in next 7st then 2tog (48)
30) 1sc in next 6st then 2tog 42)
31) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (36)
32) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (30)
33) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24)
34) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
*The next few rows will feel awkward to crochet but it will get easier as the body gets larger.
35) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
* Stuff majority of head. Push the stuffing to the top of the head then make sure to gt stuffing all around the sides of the face and neck area. Shape as you stuff. It will take lots of stuffing. You will stuff more in a few more rows.
36) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
37) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
* Stuff more into the head now if needed. Make sure to get any gaps filled with stuffing. Push stuffing into the bottom of the face, all around. It takes lots of stuffing.
38) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (42)
39-43) 1sc in each st for 5 rows
44) 1sc in next 6st then 2sc in next st (48)
45) 1sc in next 7st then 2sc in next st (54)
46-48) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
49) 1sc in next 8st then 2sc in next st (60)
50) 1sc in next 9st then 2sc in next st (66)
51) 1sc in next 10st then 2sc in next st (72)
52) 1sc in each st for 1 row
53) 1sc in next 11st then 2sc in next st (78)
54) 1sc in next 12st then 2sc in next st (84)
55-59) 1sc in each st for 5 rows
60) 1sc in next 12st then 2tog (78)
61) 1sc in next 11st then 2tog (72)
62) 1sc in next 10st then 2tog (66)
63) 1sc in next 9st then 2tog (60)
64) 1sc in next 8st then 2tog (54)
65) 1sc in next 7st then 2tog (48)
66) 1sc in next 6st then 2tog (42)
67) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (36)
* Stuff the majority of the body now. Be sure to fill any gaps in the neck area. Stuff it firm and full or the neck will be floppy. You will add more stuffing over the next rows.
*The next rows, and until you close the body, will feel a bit more difficult as it’s harder to keep the tension once the body has been stuffed, if you stuffed it enough. Hang in there! Keep your tension tight, you’re almost done.
68) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (30)
69) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24)
*Stuff more. Push stuffing into the sides and all around the bottom.
70) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
*Stuff more.. be sure to get all around the bottom and in the middle. The belly should be nice and fat.
71) 1sc then 2tog (12)
72) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (10)
f/o leaving a tail for closing up the gap. Weave in and out of the remaining stitches. Add more stuffing as needed then pull yarn tail tight to close gap. Knot off and hide yarn tail in the body.

Muzzle:
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6) No need to pull the center hole too tight as you will go through this hole when you whip stitch the nose in.
2) 2sc in each st around (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in the next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
6) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
7) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (42)
8) 1sc in next 7st, 3sc in next st, 1sc in next 2st, 3sc in next st, 1sc in next 2st, 3sc in next st, 1sc in next 14st, 3sc in next st, 1sc in next 2st, 3sc in next st, 1sc in next 2st, 3sc in next st, 1sc in next 7st (54)
9-12) 1sc in each st for 4 rows
13) 1sc in next 7st then 2tog (48)
14) 1sc in next 6st then 2tog (42)
15) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (36)
16) 1sc in each st for 1 row
sl st next st and f/o leaving a long tail for sewing.
See the assembly page here for how to stitch the nose in.

Ears: If you would like to make the ears a bit shorter then eliminate a few rows between 24 and 31
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in the next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
6) 1sc in each st for 1 row
7) 1sc in next 9st then 2sc in next st (33)
8) 1sc in each st for 1 row
9) 1sc in next 10st then 2sc in next st (36)
10) 1sc in each st for 1 row
11) 1sc in next 10st then 2tog (33)
12-13) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
14) 1sc in next 9st then 2tog (30)
15-16) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
17) 1sc in next 8st then 2tog (27)
18-19) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
20) 1sc in next 7st then 2tog (24)
21-22) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
23) 1sc in next 6st then 2tog (21)
24-31) 1sc in each st for 8 rows
32) do not stuff,  fold ear flat and sc through both sides across.
f/o leaving a tail for sewing.

Arms:
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
6) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
7-10) 1sc in each st for 4 rows
11) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (30)
12) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24)
13) 1sc in each st for 1 row
14) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (20)
15-35) 1sc in each st for 21 rows
*stuff hand once you got 5 rows done. Stuff arm as you go. Leave the last 6 rows unstuffed.
36) fold top of arm flat and sc through both sides across. f/o leaving a long tail for sewing.

Legs:
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
6) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
7) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (42)
8) 1sc in next 6st then 2sc in next st (48)
9-12) 1sc in each st for 4rows
13) 1sc in next 6st then 2tog (42)
14) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (36)
15) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (30)
16) 1sc in next 8st then 2tog (27)
17-36) 1sc in each st for 20 rows
*stuff foot after you get 5 rows done. It’ll take lots of stuffing. Stuff leg as you go along, leave the last 3 or 4 rows unstuffed. When you stuff the foot, push the stuffing into the sides to shape it, also stuff towards what will be the heel of the foot, this is important for shaping. The middle circle or row 1 should be up higher, towards the top of the foot when you’re done. See photos below.
37) Depending on where the last stitch of the last row ended you will have to sc around until you reach the side of the leg. The leg will look twisted if you don’t get to the side, it’s easier to sc to the side then have to play around with the shape after you close up the leg.
Fold flat then sc through both sides of the leg across.
38) ch1 turn, skip ch and put 1sc in each st across.
f/o leaving a tail for sewing.
How to make the toes is shown in the ASSEMBLY section. See bottom of page for link.

Smaller Foot Pads: Make 3 per foot
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 1sc then 2sc in next st (9)
sl st next st and f/o leaving a tail for sewing. Make 3 per foot
Larger Foot Pads: Make 1 per foot
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st, 2sc in next 2st, 1sc in next 10st, 2sc in next 2st, 1sc in next 2st (22)
sl st next st and f/o leaving a tail for sewing. Make 1 per foot
Eye Patch: *Optional ~ you can leave this off.
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 3sc in first st, 1sc in next 2st, 3sc in next st, 1sc in next 2st (10)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (15)
4) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (18)
5) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
sl st next st and f/o leaving a tail for sewing.
*note: the patch looks bigger in the video as I had added 1 more row, later I decided to remove that row.
Eye lids: If you use the eye patch then make one in body color and one same color as eye patch. If you do not use the eye patch then make 2 the same color as the body.
1) ch8 *starting tail should be long enough to sew into head.
2) starting in 2nd ch from hook, 1sc in each ch (7) turn, don’t ch1
3) skip first st, 1hdc in next st, 2dc in next 2st, 1hdc in next 2st, sl st last st
f/o leaving a tail for sewing
Tail:
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 1sc then 2sc in next st (9)
3-4) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
5) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (12)
6-22) 1sc in each st for 17 rows *stuff as you go, leaving the last 2 or 3 rows unstuffed.
23) fold top of tail flat and sc through both sides across.
f/o leaving a tail for sewing.

More Amigurumi Puppy Ideas:

The toy is not difficult, knitting in one evening.
I knitted from acrylic 100gr/300m, pants of x/b thread Anna. From this yarn puppy turned 13 cm.

Amigurumi Puppy Dog Free Pattern

Body-Head
1r 6
2r 6 Ave (12)
3r (1 SBN, D) х6 (18)
4r (2 SBN, D) х6 (24)
5r (3 SBN, D) х6 (30)
6-8 p. 30sbn
9r (3 SBN, UB) х6 (24)
10, 11R 24 hours a
12R (2 SBN, UB) х6 (18)
13, 14r 18 of the
15r (1 SBN, UB) х6 (12)
16th, 17r 12sbn
18r (2 SBN, UB) х3 (9)
19r 9SBN
20r 9 Ave (18)
21R (1 SBN, D) х9 (27)
22r (2 SBN, D) х9 (36)
23-28 R. 36
29r (4 SBN, UB) х6 (30)
30R (3 SBN, UB) х6 (24)
31R (2 SBN, UB) х6 (18)
32 R. (1 SBN, UB) х6 (12)
33 R. 6 UB (6)

Muzzle
1r dial 5th P. Starting from the 2nd loop on the hook, 4 SBN, 3 in the last loop, on the other side of the chain 3, etc. 12
2nd Ave, 3 PCs, 3 PR, 3 RBR, 2 D (18)
3-5 p. 18 Fasten the thread, leaving the long end for the stitching.

Ears
1r 9 PV, with the second sang on the Hook 7 SBN, 1 PSN, 5 PRSs in the last loop, on the other side of the chain 1 PSN, 7 SBN, 1 v. P., knitting unfold.
2r 8 SBN, 5 Ave, 8 PCs.
We fix the thread, leave the end for the stitching.

Tail
We recruit 11. Loops.
1r 11 SBN
2, 3r 11 on theThe detail is folded in half, the SS is put at once for 2 loops, 4 SS, farther SS through the loop to the end.

Legs Top
1r 6
2r 6 Ave (12)
3-5 p. 12sbn
6r 6 UB
7-15 6
A hole to pull.
Just the palms.

Legs Bottom
1r 6
2p 6 D (12)
3r (3 SBN, D) х3 (15)
4-6 p. 15
7r 3ub, 9 SBN (12)
8r 3ub, 6 SBN (9)
9-19 P 9
20r (1 SBN, UB) х3 (6) a hole to pull.

Assembly
Face a bit of stuff, sew it to the head. Sew the bead-eyes. On the face to glue the spout. Make a stitch with a black thread from the spout to the middle of the bottom of the muzzle and make not a big duck. Embroider. Sew the ears. Legs I have movable, made a thread mount. The tail is nailed. The black thread do two ducks on the paws. The puppy is ready, it remains only to dress up.

Experienced knitters know how to make increments invisible, and if you do not know, then here’s my clue. Compare the samples: 

The photo shows that the first sample is rather a hexagon with quite noticeable paths from the increments, and the second circle, where these tracks do not exist. So, to get the second option (for toys, it is preferable), the place of increase should be shifted. 
There are several ways. I find the following convenient: 
Based on the fact that in each row you need to evenly add 6 loops, then I make an increase alternating. 
For example, we have 12 bars, in the next row should be 18, make an increase in every first loop of the two. 
In order not to get off, from the beginning of the series I think so – an increase, times (to the marker, which means the end of the series).
The next row should be 24 loops, and I move the place of the increase, counting at the same time – one, two, an increase. 
Next, in the series of 30 loops, the score looks like this – once, an increase, two, three; again, again, two, three (to the end of the row). 
Then, again I move the place of the account to the beginning of the account – an increase, one, two, three, four ….. 
Thus, the place of the increase is random, without distorting the circle and creating appreciable segments. 
As a marker, I use the tail of the main thread, which remains after tightening the amigurumi ring. It is better to immediately bear this in mind and the tail to make a length of about 15 cm. 
In order not to lose the beginning (end) of the series, just throw the tail of the marker thread over (under) the first loop in the row.
Now you know how to knit an amigurumi ring. Then start knitting the puppy! 

Amigurumi Sweet Dog Free Pattern

Legend: 
sbn – column without crochet; 
pr – increase (in one loop proayazat two); 
уб – reduction, from two loops to tie one; 
vn – the air loop; 
kakooo amigurumi (sliding loop). 
Knitting toys go in a spiral, without lifting loops. 
Let’s start with the upper paws. 

1. 6th generation. 
2. 12 сбн (пр. In each loop). 
3. 18 cbn (pr. In every second). 
4-7. 18bn. 
8. 16sbn (2ub distribute evenly). 
9. 16 сбн. 
10. Distribute uniformly. 
11. 14bn. 
12. 12sbn (2ub distribute evenly).
13-20. 12сбн. 
We finish knitting by a connecting column, leaving the tail of the thread about 15 cm. 
Let’s start knitting the lower paws. 

1. 6th generation. 
2. 12 сбн (пр. In each loop). 
3. 18 сбн (пр. In every second loop). 
4. 24 сбн (пр in every third loop). 
5. 30 сбн (пр in every fourth loop). 
6-8. 30 сбн. 
9. 6bn; (уб, 1сбн) * 6 times; 6сбн = 24 сбн. 
10. 6bn; (уб, 1сбн) * 4 times; 6сбн = 20сбн. 
11-15. 20сбн. 
16. 3bn; ub; 10 сбн; ub; 3сбн = 18 сбн. 
17. 18 сбн. 
18. 3bn; ub; 8bn; ub; 3сбн = 16сбн. 
19. 16 сбн. 
One paw should end with a connecting post.
On the second paw, when the knitting of the last row is finished, tie another 4bn and tie a chain of 6 air loops. 
Important: do not cut the thread! 
We connect the lower paws and start knitting the carcass.

To attach the second leg to the chain of six air loops. It is necessary to make sure that the paws are looking in the same direction! 
On the second leg, tie 16sbn and the last 17mm in the loop of joining the chain. 
On the chain to bind 6bn. 
Make an increase in the loop, from which they began to knit a chain, and tie a 12bn on the paw. The circle is closed. 
Then we knit a carcass: 
1. 4сбн; etc; 6сбн; etc; 14sbn; etc; 5bn; etc; 12 сбн = (49 сбн). 
2. 3bn; etc; (1 сбн; пр) * 4 times; 18bn; etc; 3сбн; etc; 14 сбн = (56 сбн). 
3. 1 сбн; (8 сбн; пр) * 3 times; 1сбн; (8; pr) * 3 times = (62 cbn). 
4-13. No change 62сбн. 
14. 10 сбн; ub; 6сбн; ub; 42 сбн = (60 сбн). 
15. (8cb, yb) * 6 times = (54cbn).
16. (3сбн; уб; 4сбн) * 6раз = (48 сбн). 
17-18. Unchanged 48 сбн. 
19. (уб; 6сбн) * 6 times = (42 сбн). 
20. No change 42cd. 
21. (5bb; yb) * 6 times = (36sbn). 
22-24. No change 36bn. 
25. (4сбн; уб) * 6раз = (30 сбн). 
The carcass is connected to the places of attachment of the upper legs. 
At this point, I stuff the lower legs. It is more convenient for me to knit when the details are empty. 
Packing is best done not too tight, the toy should be elastic, but soft. 
So, tying in the last row all the loops in a circle, go in addition a few more bars to stop knitting on the back of the carcass (about 8 cbn). 
On each side, sew the upper paws for 4 loops, where the armpits (see photo).

The marker for the origin of the loops is moved to the junction of the right paw with the carcase from the side of the back. 
26. At the points of connection of the legs with the carcass (there are 4 of them on the back and two in front) to make the decrease. It should turn out 34сбн. 
27. 34Sbn without emotions. 
28. Again make 4 deductions in the same place as in row 26 = (30 cbn). 
29. (3сбн; уб) * 6 times = 24 сбн. 
30. (уб; 2сбн) * 6 times = 18 сбн. 
31. (1сбн; уб) * 6 times = 12 сбн. 
32. 12 сбн.
Do not cut the thread!

Let’s start knitting. 
We continue knitting from the neck, but we count the rows as initial. 
1. In each loop of the previous series = 24cb. 
2. (3ббн; пр) * 6 times = 30 сбн. 
3. (Пр; 4сбн) * 6 times = 36сбн. 
4. (3bn; pr; 2sbn) * 6 times = 42cb. 
5. (6sbn; pr) * 6 times = 48sbn. 
6. (Пр; 7сбн) * 6 times = 54 сбн. 
7. (4bn; pr; 4sbn) * 6 times = 60sbn. 
8. (9bn; pr) * 6 times = 66sbn. 
9. (Ex, 10) * 6 times = 72cb. 
10-13. 72sbn without emotions. 
14. Move the loop start marker to the middle of the back of the head, and just hang the loop.
And continue: 25sbn; (уб; 2сбн) * 5 times; ub; 25 сбн = 66сбн. 

15. 66bn. 
16. 22cb; (уб; 2сбн) * 5 times; ub; 22 сбн = 60сбн. 
17-19. 60сбн.
20. 16 сбн; ub; 3сбн; ub; 3сбн; ub; 4bn; ub; 3сбн; ub; 3сбн; ub; 16сбн = 54сбн. 
21. To knit 40sbn, put the marker of the beginning of the row. 
22. (7сбн; уб) * 6раз = 48 сбн. 
23. (Уб; 6сбн) * 6 times = 42 сбн. 
24. (2сбн; уб; 3сбн) * 6 times = 36сбн. 
25. (4bb; yb) * 6 times = 30cb. 
26. (уб; 3сбн) * 6 times = 24 сбн. 
27. (2сбн; уб) * 6 times = 18 сбн. 
28. (уб; 1сбн) * 6 times = 12 сбн. 
29. 6 in a row. 
Make a connection. To cut the thread, leaving the end about 15 cm. The remaining loops are pulled together by this thread, passing it through the front half loops. Make a basting, and put the end of the thread in the body of the toy.It is convenient to fill the head with the filler when the rows with discounts have gone, it is better to stuff the neck more tightly. The whole head is packed well, but without excessive fanaticism. We’ll do the tightening and stuffing should let it do it. 

We knit the tail. 
At the beginning of knitting, leave the tail about 20cm. You will not need a marker, but you will need this thread. 
1. 8сбн in spacecraft. 
2-3. 8c. 
Next, we knit in a circle, in each row making an increase in the last loop. 
Additions to do until there are 18 loops in the row. As a result, you will get a cone that looks a bit like a kulek. After the last row, another 9bn should be tied up and the connection completed. column. Leave the thread for sewing. 
In order for the tail not to stick out with a carrot, it needs to be formalized.
Here it will take the very end of the thread that was left at the beginning of the knitting. By means of a needle with a blunt end, it is necessary, as it were, to sew the tail along the entire length with the seam “forward needle”. From the tip to the base on the side of the “kulechka” opposite to the one where there were increases. 
Strip the thread carefully (take care not to break!), While giving the tail a shape. Make the bracing and the end, without cutting, tuck into the tail. 

Before you sew a tail, you need to make a tightening of the half-backs and the navel: 
Approximately in the 13-14 row from the back, attach the thread (just tied). One end is more authentic, he is a worker, the second is in no hurry to cut off! Using the long needle, thread the long end of the thread through the carcass, and return it through 2 loops, and tighten by tying both ends of the thread.
Then put the long end into the carcass between the lower legs and bring it back. Connect the ends of the threads again. Make several strong knots. Extra threads can be cut, then they hide under the tail.

Tail the nail fill and sew to the carcase. 

Our tolstupik now looks like a Martian :). In my opinion it’s very nice. 
It’s time to make the suits on the face. Again arm yourself with a long needle and a strong thread in the tone of your toy. Attach the thread at the base of the head. Then make a puncture from the base skaoz muzzle up to the 16th row. 
Visually determine the vertical axis of symmetry of the muzzle, count 4 loops on the right side and output the thread. 
Then, make a puncture through 2 loops (move to the left side) down to the base of the head. 
Pull and tie a strong knot. 
Again, make a piercing from the bottom up, and return through two loops, again pull off and tie. 
So you need to do two more times.
In total, there should be four weights. Well tie the ends of the threads and use a needle to hide them in the toy.

It’s time to take hold of the ears. 
Starting with the second row, all the loops make sense to knit by the front half loops.
So the canvas is more plastic. 
1. 6sb in the spacecraft. 
2. Ex. in each loop = (12 сбн). 
3. 2 сбн; (pr) * 3 times; 3сбн; (pr) * 3 times; 1сбн = (18 сбн). 
4. 3bn; (pr) * 3 times; 6сбн; (pr) * 3 times; 3сбн = (24 сбн). 
5. 4сбн; (pr) * 3 times; 9bn; (pr) * 3 times; 5c = (30cb). 
6. 5bn; (pr) * 3 times; 12 сбн; (pr) * 3 times; 7cbn = (36cbn). 
7-10. 36сбн without changes. 
11. 6bn; (yb) * 2 times; 16sbn; (yb) * 2 times; 6сбн = (32 сбн). 
12. 32 сбн.13. 6bn; ub; 15bn; ub; 7сбн = (30 сбн). 
14. 30 сбн. 
15. 5bn; ub; 14sbn; ub; 7cb = (28cb). 
16. 28bn. 
17. 5bn; ub; 14sbn; ub; 5 сбн = (26 сбн). 
18. 4cb; ub; 12 сбн; ub; 6 сбн = (24 сбн). 
19. 3bn; ub; 11bn; ub; 6 сбн = (22 сбн). 
20. 3bn; ub; 10 сбн; ub; 5сбн = (20сбн). 
21. 14bn. 
Then we flatten the part and connect the two sides with columns without a crochet over the half loop. The part that is in front of the eyes behind the front, opposite to the back. 
In this way a 10sbn will be sewn, make a loop of lifting, a turn and again a row of 10sb. Close the last bar and cut the thread, leaving the tail for sewing.
Ears sew on the sides of the head closer to the crown (I have 10 rows from the top of the head). First we sew, lifting the ear to the top, then, bend the ear down and again make a seam, but on the other side (it will be in the 9th row from the poppy).

If the ears are ready and sewn, you can proceed to the nozzle. For my nose I used velvet yarn “Andre klassik” from “Alpina” 530m / 100gr. Hook 1.25. 
If you knit from the yarn of your choice, then you need to adjust the description for your toy. But the principle of knitting will be clear. Just as you knit, apply the workpiece to your face and see whether you like it or it’s worth it to increase / decrease. 
So, when knitting a nose, we do not count the rows, but simply knit a row:
Start with a chain of 5in; then along this chain, from the second loop from the hook, tie 3bn; in the last loop to tie 4sbn; again along the chain, but on the other side of the 3sb; and in the last loop 4cb. 
3сбн; (pr) * 4 times; 3сбн; (pr) * 4 times; 4bn; etc; 1сбн; etc; 1сбн; etc; 5bn; etc; 1сбн; etc; 1сбн; etc; 6сбн; etc; 2cb; etc; 2cb; etc; 6сбн; etc; 2cb; etc; 2cb; etc; 8bn; etc; 2cb; etc; 2cb; etc; 10 сбн; etc; 3сбн; etc; 3сбн; etc; 88ббн. 
Finish with connecting loop. Leave the tail, thread this loop around the perimeter of the detail “over the edge” and pull it together a bit (the main thing is to know the measure!). 
If your thread, from which you knit a nose, allows it to be sewn, then bravely do it.
Velury thread to sew is problematic, so I took the usual strong sewing thread in two pieces and a needle with a blunt nose. 
Try to sew the nose symmetrically, and here you will be helped by the preliminary tightening. 
You can not stuff it right away, but as you sew, it’s easier for me. 
When the nose is sewn, you can embroider dots on the cheeks, a dash under the nose, and a smile. 
For embroidery I use a mulina. 
For a smile, first sew a long stitch from the beginning to the end (do not separate the mulina), and repeat this stitch 2 times, then in the middle, make a bite, put the needle to the beginning of the stitch, and densely translate along the entire length. Should be a round flagellum.

Now let’s take a look.
Prepare eye pieces. Before you start fixing them, determine the location of the pupil and make a hole so that the button leg can easily fall into it. Further, with a long needle with a strong thread, make a puncture from the base of the head, from the nape, to the location of the eye, thread the thread into the button leg and return to the same loop. Bring the needle back to the back of the head and tighten it with a knot, drowning the button. With the same thread, do the same with the second eye. Connect the ends of the thread. 
If at this point, the dog’s head is thrown back, make an additional tightening by grasping the loops in front, just below the neck, then moving up to the bridge of the nose, make a stitch through 3-4 loops, and down to the base of the head, tighten the thread well and hide it in carcass.
Take the mulina white and embroider under the button eye whites (just uniform stitches). 
With thread from which a dog was knitted, embroider eyelids. With the needle, help the threads to lie flat. 

It’s time for the final design of the toy – toning. 
Important: it’s better to skip this step if your toy is intended for a very small child (less than a year and a half). 
To apply toning you will need an oil pastel. If there is no such at hand, do not rush to fly to buy, for sure at home there will be colored pencils, at the very least, a simple pencil will do. 
Also you will need a medium-grained sandpaper and an elastic brush.
Chalk pastels or pencil rub on the sandpaper, then carefully “povyukayte” on this place with a brush. With the resulting powder, start decorating your puppy as fantasy dictates. 
Repeat this sequence until the result satisfies you. 

Is it possible to erase such a toy?
Can! Here is a short instruction.
Wash only with hands, helping with a soft foam rubber sponge and in warm water.
Rinse well under running water, wring out with a towel, without twisting. 
Dry the toy on the heaters can not be! Refresh the toning, if necessary.