This Amigurumi Panda crochet pattern creates a soft, huggable plush toy with classic panda colors, rounded shapes, and expressive facial details.
Designed for plush yarn lovers, this pattern is ideal for crocheters who want to make a large, high-quality amigurumi animal suitable for gifts, room decor, or selling finished items.

📏 FINISHED SIZE

Approx. 30 cm (12 inches) tall
(Size may vary depending on yarn type, hook size, and tension.)

🧶 MATERIALS

• Bulky / velvet / chenille yarn (#5 weight recommended)
  • Color A: Black (main details)
  • Color B: White (body & head)
• Small amount of thinner black and white yarn (facial embroidery)
• Crochet hook: 4.0 mm (G)
• Polyester fiberfill stuffing
• Yarn needle (long)
• Stitch markers
• Safety eyes: 2 × 15 mm

📌 ABBREVIATIONS (US TERMS)

• st / sts – stitch / stitches
• ch – chain
• sl st – slip stitch
• sc – single crochet
• inc – increase (2 sc in one stitch)
• dec – decrease (single crochet 2 together)
• BLO – back loop only
• FLO – front loop only
• (…) – stitch count at end of round

Pattern is worked in continuous rounds unless stated otherwise.

🐾 ARMS (Make 2)

Start with black yarn

Ch 6.

Round 1:
Starting in 2nd ch from hook, working in back loops only:
inc, 3 sc, inc.
Continue on opposite side of chain: inc, 3 sc, inc. (14)

Round 2:
inc, 5 sc, inc, inc, 5 sc, inc. (18)

Rounds 3–8:
sc around (18)

Rounds 9–16:
Each round: dec once, then sc to end of round, reducing by 1 stitch each round until 10 sts remain.

Lightly stuff.
Fold opening flat and seam closed with sc through both layers.
Fasten off and hide yarn.

🐾 LEGS (Make 2)

Round 1: 7 sc in MR (7)
Round 2: inc around (14)
Round 3: (inc, sc) around (21)
Round 4: (sc, inc, sc) around (28)
Round 5: BLO – (3 sc, inc, 3 sc) around (32)
Rounds 6–7: sc around (32)
Round 8: (3 sc, dec, 3 sc) around (28)
Round 9: 10 sc, 4 dec, 10 sc (24)
Round 10: 8 sc, 4 dec, 8 sc (20)
Rounds 11–22: sc around (20)

Stuff firmly at bottom, lightly toward top.
Fasten off and continue to body.

🐼 BODY

Place legs side by side, fronts facing away.

Round 1:
Join yarn through both inner leg stitches.
sc around left leg (20), continue to right leg and sc around (20). (40)

Switch to white yarn.

Round 2: sl st around (40)
Round 3: BLO – (inc, 3 sc) around (50)
Rounds 4–12: sc around (50)
Round 13: (4 sc, dec, 4 sc) around (45)
Round 14: sc around (45)
Round 15: (dec, 7 sc) around (40)
Round 16: sc around (40)

Switch to black yarn.

Round 17: sl st in BLO around (40)
Round 18: BLO – (3 sc, dec, 3 sc) around (35)
Round 19: sc around (35)
Round 20: (dec, 5 sc) around (30)

Mark stitch placement for arms.

Round 21:
Attach arms while sc around (30)

Round 22: (dec, 3 sc) around (24)

Stuff body firmly.

🐼 HEAD

Switch to white yarn.

Round 23: sl st in BLO around (24)
Round 24: BLO – (sc, inc, sc) around (32)
Round 25: (inc, 3 sc) around (40)
Round 26: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) around (48)
Round 27: (inc, 11 sc) around (52)
Rounds 28–38: sc around (52)
Round 39: (dec, 11 sc) around (48)
Round 40: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) around (40)
Round 41: (dec, 3 sc) around (32)
Round 42: (sc, dec, sc) around (24)

Insert eyes.
Stuff head firmly.

Round 43: (dec, sc) around (16)
Round 44: dec around (8)

Close opening, fasten off, hide yarn.

👃 SNOUT

With white yarn, ch 4.

Round 1:
From 2nd ch: inc, sc, inc.
Opposite side: inc, sc, inc. (10)

Round 2: 2 inc, sc, 4 inc, sc, 2 inc (18)
Round 3: Expand evenly to 26 sts
Rounds 4–5: sc around (26)

Lightly stuff and sew to face.

👂 EARS (Make 2)

Ch 4 with black yarn.

Round 1: inc, sc, inc on both sides (10)
Round 2: inc, 3 sc, 2 inc, 3 sc, inc (14)
Round 3: inc, 5 sc, 2 inc, 5 sc, inc (18)
Rounds 4–5: sc around (18)

Fold flat, seam closed, sew to head.

👁️ EYE PATCHES (Make 2)

Ch 5 with black yarn.

Round 1: inc, 2 sc, inc on both sides (12)
Round 2: Shape with clusters and decreases to form oval.

Attach safety eyes through patches, then sew patches to face.

✨ FACIAL DETAILS

• Embroider nose with black yarn
• Outline eyes lightly with white yarn
• Add mouth and eyebrows with thin black yarn
• Gently sculpt face by tightening stitches beneath eyes

🐾 TAIL

Round 1: 6 sc in MR
Round 2: inc around (12)
Rounds 3–5: sc around (12)

Flatten, seam closed, and sew to back of body.

📜 COPYRIGHT & USAGE

This is an original rewritten pattern prepared for
amigurumi.badoomobile.net

✔ You may sell finished panda toys
❌ You may not sell or redistribute this pattern

Please credit amigurumi.badoomobile.net when sharing finished items.

🎨 Finished Amigurumi Panda– Color Variations and Accesories

Poodle measures 13” tall x 12” from nose to end
(excluding tail).
RED HEART® “Super Saver®”: 1 skein each 373 Petal
Pink A, 316 Soft White B, and 312 Black C.
RED HEART® “Pomp-a-Doodle™”: 1 ball 9785 Cotton
Candy Pink D.
Crochet Hooks: 3.75mm [US F-5], 5mm [US H-8].
Yarn needle, stitch marker, black embroidery floss,
polyester filler, strong hand-sewing thread and needle,
GAUGE: 20 sc = 4”; 16 rounds = 4” in sc. CHECK YOUR
GAUGE. Use any size hook to obtain the gauge.
Special Abbreviations
inc (increase) = 2 sc in next sc.
dec (decrease) = [draw up a loop in next st] twice, yo and
draw through all 3 loops on hook.

Amigurumi Crochet Pomp Poddle Free Pattern

Head (Begin at nose)
Work in continuous rounds without joining. Mark beginning
of round. Move marker up each round.
Round 1: With C and smaller hook, ch 2; 6 sc in 2nd ch
from hook.
Round 2: [Inc] 6 times – 12 sc.
Rounds 3 and 4: Sc in each sc around.
Round 5: Dec, sc in next 9 sc, slip st in next sc – 11 sts.
Fasten off. Stuff with black yarn remnants to prevent
stuffing show-through.
Round 6: Join B in any st; ch 1, [inc, sc in next sc] 5 times, inc – 17 sc.
Round 7: Sc in each sc around.
Round 8: Inc, sc in next 8 sc, inc, sc in next 7 sc – 19 sc.
Round 9: Inc, sc in next 9 sc, inc, sc in next 8 sc – 21 sc.
Round 10: Inc, sc in next 10 sc, inc, sc in next 9 sc – 23 sc.
Round 11: Inc, sc in next 11 sc, inc, sc in next 10 sc – 25 sc.
Round 12: [Inc, sc in next 4 sc] 5 times – 30 sc.
Round 13: [Inc, sc in next 4 sc] 6 times – 36 sc.
Round 14: Sc in each sc around.
Round 15: [Inc, sc in next 5 sc] 6 times – 42 sc.
Round 16: [Inc, sc in next 6 sc] 6 times – 48 sc.
Round 17: [Inc, sc in next 7 sc] 6 times – 54 sc.
Rounds 18-23: Sc in each sc around.
Round 24: [Inc, sc in next 8 sc] 6 times – 60 sc.
Round 25: Sc in each sc around.
Round 26: [Dec, sc in next 4 sc] 10 times – 50 sc.
Round 27: [Dec, sc in next 3 sc] 10 times – 40 sc.
Round 28: [Dec, sc in next 2 sc] 10 times – 30 sc. Stuff
head firmly, continuing as rounds are worked.
Round 29: [Dec, sc in next sc] 10 times – 20 sc.
Round 30: Sc in each sc around. Finish stuffing head.
Round 31: [Dec] 10 times – 10 sc.
Round 32: [Dec] 5 times – 5 sc. Fasten off, weaving yarn
tail through sc to close hole.

Body (Beginning at rear end)
Round 1: Using A and smaller hook, ch 2; 6 sc in 2nd ch
from hook.
Round 2: [Inc] 6 times – 12 sc.
Round 3: [Inc, sc in next sc] 6 times – 18 sc.
Round 4: [Inc, sc in next 2 sc] 6 times – 24 sc.
Round 5: [Inc, sc in next 3 sc] 6 times – 30 sc.
Round 6: [Inc, sc in next 4 sc] 6 times – 36 sc.
Round 7: [Inc, sc in next 5 sc] 6 times – 42 sc.
Round 8: [Inc, sc in next 6 sc] 6 times – 48 sc.
Round 9: Sc in each sc around.
Round 10: [Inc, sc in next 7 sc] 6 times – 54 sc.
Round 11: [Inc, sc in next 8 sc] 6 times – 60 sc.
Rounds 12 and 13: Sc in each sc around.
Round 14-Back Leg Openings: Sc in next 3 sc, ch 8,
skip 10 sc, sc in next 2 sc, ch 8, skip 10 sc, sc in next 35
sc –56 sts.
Rounds 15-23: Sc in each ch and sc around – 56 sc.
Round 24-Front Leg Openings: Sc in next 3 sc, ch 8, skip 10 sc, sc in next 2 sc, ch 8, skip 10 sc, sc in next 31 sc – 52 sts.
Round 25: Inc, sc in next 23 sts, inc, sc in next 27 sc – 54 sc.
Rounds 26: Inc, sc in next 24 sts, inc, sc in next 28 sts –56 sc.
Round 27: Sc in each sc around.
Round 28-Neck Opening: Sc in next 39 sc, ch 10, skip 10 sc, sc in next 7 sc – 56 sts.
Round 29: Sc in each ch and sc around – 56 sc. Stuff poodle body as rounds are worked.
Round 30: [Sc in next 6 sc, dec] 7 times – 49 sc.
Round 31: Sc in next sc, [dec, sc in next 4 sc] 8 times –41 sc.
Round 32: Sc in next sc, [dec] 20 times – 21 sc. Continue to stuff body.
Round 33: Sc in next sc, [dec] 10 times – 11 sc.
Round 34: Sc in next sc, [dec] 5 times – 6 sc.
Round 35: [Dec] 3 times – 3 sc.
Fasten off, weaving yarn tail through sc to close hole.

Legs (Make 4)
Round 1: Join B to any st in leg opening; ch 1, sc in each ch and sc around inc 3 sts evenly spaced – 21 sc.
Rounds 2-14: Sc in each sc around, changing to A in the last st of the last round. Fasten off B.
Round 15: With A, slip st loosely at base of each sc
around (this will be the foundation for applying leg pouf).
Round 16: Sc in each sc of Round 14 around – 21 sc.
Stuff upper section of leg. If using plastic pellets to add
weight to poodle, place about ¼ cup in the toe of a kneehigh
stocking, cut and tightly knot. Stuff this into bottom most parts needing extra weight, finish stuffing with
polyester filler.
Round 17: Sc in next sc, [inc, sc in next 4 sc] 4 times – 25 sc.
Round 18: Sc in each sc around.
Round 19: [Inc, sc in next 4 sc] 5 times – 30 sc.
Round 20: [Inc, sc in next 5 sc] 5 times – 35 sc.
Round 21: [Dec, sc in next 5 sc] 5 times – 30 sc.
Round 22: [Dec] 15 times – 15 sc.
Finish stuffing.
Round 23: [Dec] 7 times, sc in next sc – 8 sc.
Round 24: [Dec] 4 times – 4 sc.
Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing. Repeat for other legs.
Pomp-a-Doodle™ yarn is worked in the thread between
the pompons. Do not pull pompons through stitches. See
Red Heart video tutorial at for
more information on working with Pomp-a-Doodle™.

Leg Pouf
Round 1: Join D in any slip st of Round 15; sc in each slip
st around leg.
Round 2: Sc in each sc around. Fasten off.
Neck
Round 1: Attach A to any sc in neck opening; ch 1, sc in
each ch and sc around inc 6 sts evenly spaced – 26 sc.
Rounds 2-7: Sc in each sc around. Fasten off leaving yarn
tail for attaching head.
Ribbed Sweater Collar
Row 1: Ch 7; sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch
across; turn – 6 sc.
Rows 2-21: Ch 1, sc in back loops only in each sc across;
turn. Fasten off leaving long tail for attaching to neck.
Edging: Join D in end of any row of collar; slip st evenly
across row ends (about 12 pompoms). Fasten off.

Tail
With smaller hook and A, ch 4; join with a slip st to form a
ring.
Round 1: Ch 1, 6 sc in ring; do not join; work in continuous
rounds.
Rounds 2-12: Work even in sc. Fasten off A in last sc.
Round 13: Join D in any sc; slip st (1 pompom per slip st)
in each sc around.
Round 14: * 2 Slip sts in next slip st, slip st in next slip st;
repeat from * around.
Round 15: Slip st in every other st around. Fasten off.
Ears (Make 2)
With smaller hook and B, ch 12; join with a slip st to form
a ring.
Round 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch around; do not join – 12 sc.
Rounds 2-6: Sc in each sc around.
Round 7: [Inc, sc in next 5 sc] twice – 14 sc.
Rounds 8 and 9: Sc in each sc around.
Round 10: [Inc, sc in next 6 sc] twice – 16 sc.
Round 11: Sc in each sc around.
Round 12: [Inc, sc in next 7 sc] twice – 18 sc.
Round 13: [Inc, sc in next 8 sc] twice – 20 sc.
Round 14: Sc in each sc around.
Round 15: [Inc, sc in next 9 sc] twice – 22 sc.
Rounds 16 and 17: Sc in each sc around.
Round 18: [Dec, sc in next sc] 7 times, sc in next sc – 15 sc.
Round 19: [Dec, sc in next sc] 5 times – 10 sc.
Round 20: [Dec] 5 times – 5 sc. Fasten off, using long tail
to close hole.

Ear Pouf
Round 1: Starting at the tip of the ear at Round 18, slip st
D into stitches around the ear tip.
Round 2: Slip st in each slip st around. Fill in bare spots
with D as needed. Fasten off.
FINISHING
Sew head, tail, and sweater collar to body as in photo,
using long yarn tails. Make certain parts are securely
attached. Sew ears to head leaving approximately 4”
diameter circle free between ears at top of head.
Locate eye placement. Using black embroidery thread,
sew 3 lines for eyelashes as shown. Attach buttons
securely, overlapping the eyelashes a little OR embroider
eyes if toy is to be used for children under 2 years of age.

Head Pouf
Add after ears have been attached and head has been
sewn to neck.
Round 1: Beginning at the crown of the head where the
ears are attached, with larger hook and B, loosely work
25 slip sts into the sts of the Head in a circle about 4”
diameter. This circle should be placed directly on top of the
head, evenly spaced in conjunction with the ears.
Round 2: With D and larger hook, sc in each st around.
Round 3: Inc, [sc in next sc, inc] 12 times – 38 sc.
Round 4: Sc in next 2 sc, [dec, sc in next 2 sc] 9 times –29 sc.
Round 5: [Dec, sc in next 3 sc] 5 times, dec, sc in last 2 sc – 23 sc.
Round 6: Sc in next sc, [dec] 11 times – 12 sc
Round 7: [Dec] 6 times – 6 sc.
Round 8: [Dec] 3 times – 3 sc. Fasten off.
Ribbon is attached by weaving the tip of the ribbon
between a few D sts, pulling through with even lengths and
tying into a bow. Tighten and trim ends.

Blushed Cheeks
Use dark powder blush and extra large makeup brush or
stencil brush. Load makeup onto brush as if to apply to
face, tapping off excess. Locate cheek area on Head and
apply using a tamping or pouncing motion. To do this, hold
the brush straight and perpendicular to the poodles’ face.
Tap the brush end onto the desired location; do not use
a brushing or sweeping motion. Apply blush in layered
stages until desired effect is achieved.
ABBREVIATIONS: A, B, C, D = color A, B, C, D;
ch = chain; mm = millimeters; sc = single crochet;
st(s) = stitch(es); yo = yarn over; * or ** = repeat whatever
follows the * or ** as indicated; [ ] = work directions in
brackets the number of times specified.

With paws tucked in and tail to his side, The Parlor Cat makes a very prim and proper house guest. Knit
in the round, it is one piece from head to tail, and a befitting 10” long and 7” wide. This is the second in
my series of house cats.
Materials Required
Worsted weight yarn – app. 170 yards
Size 4 double pointed needles
Size 4 circular needle (optional)
Darning needle
Stitch markers
Stuffing
Abbreviations
CO cast on
dpn double pointed needle
K knit
P purl
M1 make one stitch (see special note below)
st stitch
sts stitches
K2tog knit two stitches together
PU pick up (create) a new stitch from existing work
WT wrap and turn (see special note below)
SSK slip next two stitches knit-wise, place them back onto left needle, and then knit them together
through the back loop
pm place a marker

Special Notes

The increases in this pattern (M1) are made by lifting the right “leg” of the next stitch (the right
side of the stitch directly below the next stitch on your left needle), placing it on the left needle,
then knitting it as you would any other stitch.

The wrap & turn (WT) rows are worked across two dpns only. After knitting the number of sts
specified, bring yarn to the front of your work, slip the next st on the left dpn to the right one,
move yarn to the back of your work, and slip the stitch back to the left needle. Turn your work
and purl the stitches back to the beginning of the needle. Purl the number of sts specified on the
other dpn, bring yarn to the back of your work, slip the next st on the left dpn to the right one,
move yarn to the front of your work, and slip the stitch back to the left needle. Turn your work
and knit the stitches back to the beginning of the needle.

Amigurumi The Parlor Cat Free Pattern

Body
CO 52 sts onto 3 dpns and work the following rounds. You may switch to a circular needle as needed.
1-2) K all sts
3) K1, M1, K2, M1, K to last 3 sts, M1, K2, M1, K1
4-7) K all sts
8) K1, M1, K2, M1, K to last 3 sts, M1, K2, M1, K1
9-12) K all sts
13) K1, M1, K2, M1, K to last 3 sts, M1, K2, M1, K1
14-17) K all sts
18) K1, M1, K2, M1, K2, M1, K to last 5 sts, M1, K2, M1, K2, M1, K1
19-22) K all sts
23) K1, M1, K2, M1, K2, M1, K to last 5 sts, M1, K2, M1, K2, M1, K1
24-27) K all sts
28) K1, M1, K2, M1, K2, M1, K to last 5 sts, M1, K2, M1, K2, M1, K1
29-44) K all sts
Measure off about 25 yards of yarn for finishing the rear and tail later, and then cut. Thread a darning
needle with a piece of scrap yarn, and slip all of the live sts (82) onto it, removing the dpns as you go.

Chest
Stitches are now picked up in the original CO sts to form the cat’s chest. Yarn color can be changed at
this time, if desired. Count 10 sts to the left of the first CO st, then with a dpn and new yarn PU the
following 15 sts. With a second dpn, PU the next 15 sts. The 30 sts on these two dpns should form a “V”
which points straight down the middle of the neck.

Purl back across all sts on the 2nd dpn only. This will leave your working yarn in between the 1st
and 2nd dpns, and you are ready to work the short rows.
Short rows are now worked back and forth across these two dpns:
1) 2nd dpn: K3, WT, P3
1st dpn: P3, WT, K3
2) 2nd dpn: K4, WT, P4
1st dpn: P4, WT, K4
3) 2nd dpn: K5, WT, P5
1st dpn: P5, WT, K5
Continue in this manner, increasing the number of stitches to knit/purl by one on each short row, until all
15 sts on both dpns (except the first 3 on each dpn) have been wrapped. Cut yarn.

Head
Additional sts are now picked up between the end of the 2nd dpn and beginning of the 1st. With your 3rd
dpn and the color yarn that was used for the cat’s body, PU 22 sts, one in each of the remaining CO sts.
Work the following rounds beginning with the 1st dpn from the chest section above (at left “shoulder”):
1) K all sts
2) K2tog, K21, SSK, K1, K2tog, K to last 2 sts, SSK
3) K2tog, K19, SSK, K1, K2tog, K to last 2 sts, SSK
4-5) K all sts
6) K2tog, K17, SSK, K1, K2tog, K to last 2 sts, SSK
7-8) K all sts
9) K1, M1, K17, M1, K3, M1, K to last 2 sts, M1, K2
10-11) K all sts
12) K1, M1, K19, M1, K3, M1, K to last 2 sts, M1, K2
13-14) K all sts
15) K1, M1, K21, M1, K3, M1, K to last 2 sts, M1, K2
16-17) K all sts
18) K1, M1, K23, M1, K3, M1, K to last 2 sts, M1, K2
19-20) K all sts
21) K1, K2tog, K22, SSK, K2, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, SSK, K1
22-23) K all sts
24) K1, K2tog, K20, SSK, K2, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, SSK, K1
25-26) K all sts
27) K1, K2tog, K18, SSK, K2, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, SSK, K1
28-29) K all sts
At this point 44 sts remain and you are ready to knit the ears. Slip the first 7 sts onto your working dpn
without knitting them. Thread a darning needle with a piece of scrap yarn, and slip the next 30 sts onto it
for working later. You now have 14 sts remaining on 2 dpns. Transfer some of them to a 3rd dpn since
you will be knitting in the round. Begin with the first original st on the outer right side of the head and
work the following rounds:
1-3) K all sts
4) SSK, K3, K2tog, SSK, K3, K2tog
5-6) K all sts
7) SSK, K1, K2tog, SSK, K1, K2tog
8) K all sts
Cut yarn and thread through a darning needle. Remove dpns and thread through remaining live sts. Pull
tightly closed, insert needle down through center of ear and secure to inside.
Place the next 8 sts from scrap yarn at the front of the head onto a dpn. Place last 8 sts from the scrap
yarn at the back of the head onto a 2nd dpn. With the Kitchener stitch, graft these 16 sts together to form
the area between the ears.
Arrange the 14 remaining live sts onto 3 dpns. The first stitch should be the innermost stitch on the right
side of the ear. Repeat all rounds (1-8) for this ear as with the first one.
Sew up any holes, weave in any loose ends, and stuff the head and front half of body. Be sure to stuff
the entire chest area very firmly. This will ensure the proper posture for your Parlor Cat!

Rear and Tail
Place the live sts on scrap yarn back onto 3 dpns (or circular needle). Work the following rounds:
1) (K7, K2tog) 4 times, pm, K10, pm, (K7, K2tog) 4 times
2) K all sts
3) (K6, K2tog) 4 times, K10, (K6, K2tog) 4 times
4) K all sts
5) (K5, K2tog) 4 times, K10, (K5, K2tog) 4 times
6) K all sts
7) (K4, K2tog) 4 times, K10, (K4, K2tog) 4 times
8) K all sts
9) (K3, K2tog) 4 times, K10, (K3, K2tog) 4 times
10) K all sts
11) (K2, K2tog) 4 times, K10, (K2, K2tog) 4 times
12) K all sts
13) (K1, K2tog) 4 times, K10, (K1, K2tog) 4 times
14) K all sts
15) (K2tog) 4 times, K10, (K2tog) 4 times – (remove the st markers on this round)
The 18 remaining sts will form the tail. Finish stuffing the cat’s body. K all sts for 3 inches, decreasing 1
st every inch, then K all 15 sts for approximately 5 inches. Decrease every other round until 12 sts
remain, then K all sts for 1 inch. Cut yarn, thread through remaining live sts. Stuff tail, pull tightly closed,
and secure. Hold the tail alongside of the body and seam together at bottom.

Front legs
CO 15 sts onto 3 dpns and K in the round for 5 inches. Cut yarn, thread through live sts, pull tightly
closed and secure. Stuff all but about 1 inch at open end. Fold the closed end of paw inward and stitch
to hold in place. Seam leg to bottom of cat’s body as pictured on the Tips Page.
Face
Eyes, nose, mouth and whiskers can be embroidered, painted, appliqued, etc. Make your Parlor Cat as
unique as you like!

Tips Page
This picture shows the approximate placement of The Parlor Cat’s
tail and legs. Seam all but about 2 inches of the tail to the side of
the body, and all of the legs up to the paws.
To make knitting the tail easier, you may want to knit it for an inch or
two before stuffing the end of the body.
I recommend using this type of stuffing which makes it much
easier to “sculpt” your toy and create the desired shape.
This type of stuffing has a mind of its own and tends to
clump together into balls, making it harder to
shape your toy the way you want it.
Dpns are great for moving the stuffing into
tight areas like ears and tips of tails.

No need to spend a lot of money on yarn.
Acrylic-based yarns work great for toys!

Try not to knit tightly!

The free pig amigurumi pattern will help you to create a cute crochet toy.
Translated by Amiguroom Toys
Yarn: Vita Cotton COCO, colour 4317
Hook: 1.25 mm

Abbreviations:
R = row
mc = magic circle
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
inc = 2 sc in the next stitch
dec = single crochet 2 stitches together
F.o. = finish off
(12) = number of stitches you should have at the end of the round/row
(…) x 6 = repeat whatever is between the brackets the number of times stated

Crochet Little Pig Amigurumi Pattern

Head and body (one piece)
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc) x 6 (12)
R 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
R 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
R 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
R 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)
R 7-11: 36 sc (5 rows)
R 12: (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)
R 13: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
R 14: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
R 15: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
R 16: 12 sc
R 17: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
R 18: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
R 19: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
R 20-24: 30 sc (5 rows)
R 25: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
R 26: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
R 27: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
R 28: (dec) x 6 (6)
F.o.

Legs (make 2)
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc) x 6 (12)
R 3: 12 sc
R 4: dec, 10 sc (11)
R 5: dec, 9 sc (10)
R 6-7: 10 sc (2 rows)
R 8: Fold top of leg flat and 5 sc through both sides across.
R 9: Turn, 1 ch, 5 sc
F.o., leaving a long tail for sewing.

Arms (make 2)
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (1 sc, inc) x 3 (9)
R 3-6: 9 sc (4 rows)
R 7: Fold top of leg flat and 4 sc through both sides across.
R 8: Turn, 1 ch, 4 sc
F.o., leaving a long tail for sewing.
Ears (make 2)
Crochet ears at the level R 5-9 of the head.
R 1. Make 5 sc on the head (level R 5-9)
R 2: dec, 3 sc (4)
R 3: (dec) x 2 (2)
R 4: dec
F.o.
Glue the nose (a button), draw eyes with acrylic paint.

He aqui el patron, disfruten tejiendo:
MATERIALES:
– 50 gr de hilaza filati roma color melón claro
. 30 gr de hilaza sinfonía en color café
. 50 gr de estambre candy color camello
. 30 gr de hilaza armonía en color rojo y 30 gr en color blanco.
. Listón rojo de 2 cm de ancho.. 30 cm
. Varita de silicóna
. Hilo de bordar o perlé 8. café. Negro. Blanco. Verde claro y verde oscuro.
. Gancho de 1.5 y 1.75 mm.
LEYENDA
am: anillo magico
pb: punto bajo o medio punto
au: aumento
dis : disminucion
BLO: tomando solo hebras de atras
MV : media vareta
aumv: aumento de medias varetas
dismv: disminucion de medias varetas
pe: punto enano o raso

Candy Amigurumi Patron Gratis Free Pattern

PIERNAS Y CUERPO
PATRÓN PIES Y PIERNAS x 2
En hilo cafe:( color de las botas)
7 cadenetas
Vuelta 1: 5 pb, 3pb en la misma cad, 4 pb, 1 au= 14
Vuelta 2: 1 au , 4 pb, 3 au, 4 pb, 2 au= 20
vuelta 3: BLO 20 pb
vuelta 4: 4 pb 6 dis 2 pb 1 dis= 13
vuelta 5: 5 pb 2 dis 4 pb= 11
vuelta 6-19: 11 pb ( 14 vueltas)
vuelta 20: cambio de color a piel: BLO 11 pb
vuelta 21: 11 pb
vuelta 22: 4 pb 1 au 6 pb = 12
vuelta 23- 24: 12 pb
vuelta 25: (5 pb 1au) x 2 = 14
vuelta 26-32: 14 pb ( 7 vueltas)
vuelta 33: hacer tantos puntos bajos como sean necesarios hasta alcanzar la parte posterior de la pierna donde haremos ( 1 au 1 pb) x 3 .. Parte de la pompa… Completar con pb… rematar y cortar

Inicio de la bota en color cafe, tejemos alrededor de las cadenetas iniciales formando un ovalo como base del zapato.
UNIÓN DE LAS PIERNAS y CUERPO
(reiniciar en en lateral izquierdo de la pierna izquierda)
vuelta 34: 8 pb ( pierna izq), 8 pb ( pierna derecha), ( 2 pb 1 au) x 6 ( POMPAS) = 40
vuelta 35-38 = 40 pb
vuelta 39: 16 pb , ( 2 pb 1 dis) x 6 = 34
vuelta 40: 34 pb
vuelta 41: ( 15 pb 1 dis) x 2 = 32
vuelta 42: ( 6 pb 1 dis) x 4 = 28
vuelta 43-50: 28 pb
vuelta 51: ( 5 pb 1 dis) x4 = 24
vuelta 52-56: 24 pb
vuelta 57: disminuciones de 4 pb a 1, a los lados del cuerpo ( HOMBROS)
vuelta 58: ( 1 pb 1 dis) x 6 = 12
vuelta 59- 66: 12 pb
el hilo cafe cafe en la imagen muestras el reinicio para union de las piernas.

En los hombros 4 pb cerrados juntos .

colocar la varita de silicona para dar soporte al cuello.
BRAZOS
En color piel
vuelta 1: anillo magico de 5 pb
vuelta 2: 5 au = 10
vuelta 3-5: 10 pb
vuelta 6 : ( 1 pb 1 dis) x 3 , 1 pb = 7
vuelta 7- 15: 7 pb
vuelta 16: 1 au 6 pb = 8
vuelta 17- 27 : 8 pb

Los brazos se cosen justo debajo de las disminuciones de 4 pb.
CABEZA
En color piel
vuelta 1: anillo magico de 6 pb
vuelta 2: 6 au= 12
vuelta 3: ( 1 pb 1 au) x 6 = 18
vuelta 4: (2 pb 1 au) x 6 = 24
vuelta 5: (1 pb 1 au), ( 3 pb 1 au) x 5, 2 pb = 30 pb,
vuelta 6: ( 4 pb 1 au) x 6 = 36
vuelta 7: ( 2 pb 1 au) , ( 5 pb 1 au) x 5, 3 pb = 42
vuelta 8: ( 6 pb 1 au) x 6 = 48
vuelta 9- 12: 48 pb
vuelta 13: ( 6 pb 1 dis) x 3, 24 pb = 45
vuelta 14-16: 45 pb
vuelta 17: 21 pb, ( 6 pb 1 dis) x 3 = 42
vuelta 18: ) 3 pb 2 au 3 pb), 2 pb, ( 3 mv cerradas juntas), 2 pb, ( 3 pb 2 au 3 pb), 21 pb = 46
vuelta 19: 25 pb , ( 5 pb 1 dis) x 3 = 43
vuelta 20-21= 43 pb,
terminando la vuelta 21, +2… mover el marcador 2 pb.
vuelta 22:( 2 pb 1 dis) x 2 , 6 mv, ( 1 dis 2 pb) x 2, ( 5 pb 1 dis) x 3 = 36
vuelta 23: 8 pb, 4 mv, 8 pb, ( 2 pb 1 dis) x 4 = 32
vuelta 24: ( 2 pb 1 dis= x 8 = 24
vuelta 25: ( 1 dis 1 pb) x 8 = 16
vuelta 26: 4 dis, rematar….
CARA Y CABELLO 

los mv del menton deben ubicarse a la misma altura de la nariz, para eso se mueve el marcador 2 +

calcular el tamaño de los ojos dibujandolos previamente sobre papel, la distancia entre ellos es de 4.5 pb aprox.

con plumon lavable delgado delineamos los ojos, y empezamos a bordar en negro el centro del ojo.

alrededor del ojo .. bordamos lineas radiales en negro y en la parte inferior en verde claro.

en blanco bordamos pequeños puntos y una cruz.. para dar luz a los ojos.

delineamos el ojo en verde oscuro y negro..

en negro bordamos pestañas y en cafe las cejas y boca, colocamos rubor en las mejillas.

para ondular el cabello hacemos trenzas, humedecemos ligeramente, planchamos y dejamos secar, luego deshacemos y colocamos hebra por hebra dejando una linea en el centro, formamos las coletas y recortamos el cabello para emparejar.
Para la vestimenta.. deben tener en cuenta .. en la lista de materiales yo aclare que uso un hilo mas delgado para la ropa, que el empleado para tejer el cuerpo… si uds usan hilo del mismo grosor… deben usar un gancho mas pequeño e ir checando conforme tejen que le quede bien a la muñeca.. de no ser así tendrán que hacer algunas modificaciones, quitando puntos en las vueltas.
FALDA
En rojo
tejemos 36 cadenetas y las unimos, continuaremos tejiendo en espiral:
vuelta 1: 36 pb
vuelta 2: ( 8 pb 1 au) x 4 = 40
vuelta 3-8: 40 pb
vuelta 9: ( 7 pb 1 au) x 5 = 45
vuelta 10: ( 4 pb 1 au), ( 8 pb 1 au) x 4, 4 pb = 50
vuelta 11: ( 9 pb 1 au) x 5 = 55
vuelta 12: ( 5 pb 1 au) , ( 10 pb 1 au) x 4 , 5 pb = 60
vuelta 13: ( 11 pb 1 au) x 5 = 65
vuelta 14: ( 6 pb 1 au) , ( 12 pb 1 au) x 4, 6 pb = 70
vuelta 15: (13 pb 1 au) x 5 = 75
vuelta 16: (7 pb 1 au) , ( 14 pb 1 au) x 4, 7 pb = 80
vuelta 17: ( 15 pb 1 au) x 5 = 85
vuelta 18-19: 85 pb
Vuelta 20: Aumento en doble vareta en cada punto bajo.

BLUSA
En blanco:
23 cad,
empezamos a tejer en la segunda cad a partir del gancho:
vuelta 1: 22 pb, cad y girar
vuelta 2: ( 1 pb 1 au) x 11 = 33, cad y girar
vuelta 3: 33 pb, cad y girar
vuelta 4: 5 pb, tejer 4 cad ( saltar 6 pb), 11 pb, tejer 4 cad ( saltar 6), 5 pb = 29
vuelta 5-8: 29 pb
vuelta 9: 4 pb 1 au 9 pb 1 au 9 pb 1 au 4 pb = 32
vuelta 10-19: 32 pb.
la blusa se cierra por detras:
Cuello de la blusa:
Empezar en la parte central de atrás del cuello, quedara un punto sin tejer en la parte frontal de la blusa
vuelta 1: 11 pb, 2 cad, girar
vuelta 2: 2 mv 1 au 2 pb 1 au 2 pb 1 au 2 pb , 1 cad
vuelta 3: 9 pb 4 mv.
repetir en el otro lado del cuello
Mangas;
Empezar en la parte de la axila
vuelta 1: 4 pb , 6 au = 16 pb
vuelta 2-3: 4 pb 12 mv = 16
vuelta 4: 4 pb , 6 dismv= 10
vuelta 5-6: 10 pb, rematar..

DELANTAL
37 cad, empezamos a tejer en la segunda cad desde el gancho:
vuelta 1-3. 36 pb, cad y girar
vuelta 4: ( 11 pb 1 au) x 3 = 39
Vuelta 5: ( 6 pb 1 au), ( 12 pb 1 au) x 2, 6 pb= 42
vuelta 6: ( 13 pb 1 au) x 3 = 45
Vuelta 7: ( 7 pb 1 au), ( 14 pb 1 au) x 2, 7 pb= 48
vuelta 8: ( 15 pb 1 au) x 3 = 51
Vuelta 9: ( 8 pb 1 au), ( 16 pb 1 au) x 2, 8 pb= 54
vuelta 10: ( 17 pb 1 au) x 3 = 57
Vuelta 11: ( 9 pb 1 au), ( 18 pb 1 au) x 2, 9 pb= 60
vuelta 12: ( 14 pb 1 au) x 4 = 64
vuelta 13: ( 7 pb 1 au) , ( 15 pb 1 au) x 3, 8 pb = 68
vuelta 14: ( 16 pb 1 au) x 4 = 72
vuelta 15: ( 8 pb 1 au) , ( 17 pb 1 au) x 3, 9 pb = 76
vuelta 16: ( 18 pb 1 au) x 4 = 80
vuelta 17: ( 9 pb 1 au) , ( 19 pb 1 au) x 3, 10 pb = 84
vuelta 18: ( 20 pb 1 au) x 4 = 88
vuelta 19: aumentos en varetas en cada punto… rematar
PARTE SUPERIOR DEL DELANTAL.
Vuelta 1: reiniciamos la parte superior en rojo, tejiendo 40 cadenetas, luego enganchamos en el extremo izquierdo de la primera pieza y tejemos 36 pb, 41 cad y girar
Vuelta 2-3: 116 pb, cad y girar
Vuelta 4: cambiar de color a blanco 116 pb , cad y girar
Vuelta 5: 116 pb, rematar
TIRANTES… en rojo
Tejer 18 cadenetas y sobre ellas 17 pb. Rematar

CALZONES
Yo los hice en rosa, pero pueden tejerlos en blanco.
Tejer 36 cad y unir
Vuelta 1: 36 pb
Vuelta 2: ( 5 pb 1 au) x 6 = 42
Vuelta 3-10: 42 pb
Vuelta 11: 21 pb, tejer 6 cadenetas al aire, y saltar 21 pb = 27
Vuelta 12-14: 27 pb
Vuelta 15: ( 3 cad , 1 pe) .. repetir alrededor..
En el agujero que queda de la otra pierna .. repetir desde la vuelta 11 a la 15
En la parte superior de los calzones.. repetir la vuelta 15.

Happy Easter/Spring
Spring is definitely waking up in New England. After an incredibly difficult March, full of Nor’easters which have wreaked havoc recently.. it was so wonderful to sit outside last night in the cool air and hear the song of the Spring Peepers (frogs).
I am definitely ready for Spring and new life. The birds will soon be laying their eggs and chicks hatching – filling the air with their song as they learn to fly.
And it’s no surprise that chicks and Easter go hand in hand as well. So, a FREE pattern for you to create a doodle for either occasion.
Spring – the Happy Baby Chick or Easter – the large Plush Egg (just omit all the color changes and extras)
I hope you enjoy the pattern and have fun creating your own doodles.
UPDATE: You can now download this pattern in PDF format (and add it to your library) on Ravelry.com for a small fee. Click here: CP40 – Baby Chick

Materials Used in Model:
Red Heart® WW 4-Ply Yarn in 0235 Lemon, 0256 Carrot, 0321 Gold, 0311 White and 0312 Black
Size G/6-4.00mm Crochet Hook (US)
Filling for Plushies (fiberfil or similar)
Tapestry/Yarn Needle for sewing
Long Straight Pins for positioning
Commonly Used Terms & their Meanings:
ch – chain
slst – slip stitch
Dec – decrease
Inc – increase
sc – single crochet
hdc – half-double crochet
hdc-Inc – half-double crochet increase
DC – double crochet
st/sts – stitch(es)
ea – each
tog – together
nxt – next
skp – skip
lps – loops
M/M – Move Marker/Marker Moved

Amigurumi Happy Easter Spring Crochet Free Pattern

Head/Body : (Make 1)
with White,
_ Rnd 1: Using either the [ch 2, begin work in 2nd st from hook] or [magic circle] method to begin project, 6 sc in st (6 sts) Rnd 2: [Inc in nxt st] 6 times (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [sc in nxt st, Inc in nxt st] 6 times (18 sts) Rnd 4: [sc in ea of nxt 2 sts, Inc in nxt st] 6 times (24 sts)
Rnd 5: [sc in ea of nxt 5 sts, Inc in nxt st] 4 times (28 sts) Rnd 6: [sc in ea of nxt 6 sts, Inc in nxt st] 4 times (32 sts)
Rnd 7: [sc in ea of nxt 7 sts, Inc in nxt st] 4 times (36 sts) Rnd 8: [sc in ea of nxt 8 sts, Inc in nxt st] 4 times (40 sts)
Rnd 9: [sc in ea of nxt 9 sts, Inc in nxt st] 4 times (44 sts) Rnd 10: [sc in ea of nxt 10 sts, Inc in nxt st] 4 times (48 sts)
Rnd 11: sc in ea st around (48 sts) Rnd 12: [sc in ea of nxt 11 sts, Inc in nxt st] 4 times (52 sts)
Rnd 13: [sc in ea of nxt 12 sts, Inc in nxt st] 4 times (56 sts) Rnd 14: [sc in ea of nxt 13 sts, Inc in nxt st] 4 times (60 sts)
Rnd 15: sc in ea st around, changing to Lemon on lst st (60 sts) with Lemon, Rnd 16: [sc in ea of nxt 29 sts, Inc in nxt st] twice (62 sts)
Rnd 17: sc in ea st around (62 sts) Rnd 18: [sc in ea of nxt 30 sts, Inc in nxt st] twice (64 sts)
Rnd 19: sc in ea st around (64 sts) Rnd 20: [sc in ea of nxt 31 sts, Inc in nxt st] twice (66 sts)
Rnd 21: sc in ea st around (66 sts) Rnd 22: [sc in ea of nxt 32 sts, Inc in nxt st] twice (68 sts)
Rnd 23: sc in ea st around (68 sts) Rnd 24: [sc in ea of nxt 33 sts, Inc in nxt st] twice (70 sts)
Rnd 25: sc in ea st around (70 sts) Rnd 26: [sc in ea of nxt 34 sts, Inc in nxt st] twice (72 sts)
Rnds 27-29: sc in ea st around (72 sts/ea rnd) Rnd 30: [sc in ea of nxt 10 sts, Dec nxt 2 sts tog] 6 times (66 sts)
Rnd 31: sc in ea st around (66 sts) Rnd 32: [sc in ea of nxt 9 sts, Dec nxt 2 sts tog] 6 times (60 sts)
Rnd 33: sc in ea st around (60 sts) Rnd 34: [sc in ea of nxt 8 sts, Dec nxt 2 sts tog] 6 times (54 sts)
Rnd 35: sc in ea st around, changing to White on lst st (54 sts) with White, Rnd 36: [sc in ea of nxt 7 sts, Dec nxt 2 sts tog] 6 times (48 sts)
Rnd 37: sc in ea st around (48 sts) Rnd 38: [sc in ea of nxt 6 sts, Dec nxt 2 sts tog] 6 times (42 sts)
Rnd 39: [sc in ea of nxt 5 sts, Dec nxt 2 sts tog] 6 times (36 sts) Rnd 40: [sc in nxt st, Dec nxt 2 sts tog] 12 times (24 sts)
Rnd 41: [Dec nxt 2 sts tog] 12 times (12 sts) Rnd 42: [Dec nxt 2 sts tog] 6 times (6 sts)
Finish off, leaving sufficient tail remaining to weave through the front loops of Rnd 42 to close opening so that no stuffing can escape. Secure and weave in remaining tail to hide.

Top Egg Shell Ridge : (Make 1)
with White, Chain 51,
ROW 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in ea of nxt 49 sts, TURN (50 sts) ROW 2: sc in ea of nxt 2 sts, (skp ea of nxt 2 sts, (3 DC, TC, 3 DC) in nxt st, skp ea of nxt 2 sts, slst in nxt st) 8 times
Finish off. Leaving sufficient tail remaining to secure to top of Body slightly above color change.
Bottom Egg Shell Ridge : (Make 1)
with White, Chain 33, skp 1st st, (3 hdc, DC, 3 hdc) in nxt st, skp nxt st, slst in nxt st, skp nxt st) 7 times, (3 hdc, DC, 3 hdc) in nxt st, skp nxt st, slst in nxt st Finish off. Leaving sufficient tail remaining to secure to bottom of Body at color change.

Eyeball : (Make 1)
with White, Chain 9,
Rnd 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in ea of nxt 6 sts, 3 sc in end ch st – turn piece to allow you to work up the other side of original beg chain (as if a flat round), sc in ea of nxt 6 sts, Inc in last st (18 sts) Rnd 2: Inc in nxt st, sc in ea of nxt 6 sts, Inc in ea of nxt 3 sts, sc in ea of nxt 6 sts, Inc in ea of nxt 2 sts (24 sts)
Rnd 3: sc in ea st around (24 sts) Finish off, leaving sufficient tail remaining to secure Eyeball to Head/Body. Model’s Eyes are placed centered evenly on Head approximately between Rnds 22 through 26. With Black, and using a whip or “long” stitch; create a break in the center of the Eyeball, giving the appearance of two (2) separate eyes. Pupil : (Make 2) with Black, Using either the [ch 2, begin work in 2nd st from hook] or [magic circle] method to begin project, 6 s in st (6 sts) Finish off, leaving sufficient tail remaining to secure Pupil to Eyeball. You can add some color by using embroidery around the Pupil and using White, add a point(s) of light to the Pupil. Eyelid : (Make 1) with Lemon, Chain 20, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in ea of nxt 2 chs, hdc in nxt st, hdc-Inc in nxt st, hdc in nxt st, sc in ea of nxt 3 sts, slst in nxt st, sc in ea of nxt 3 sts, hdc in nxt st, hdc-Inc in nxt st, hdc in nxt st, sc in ea of nxt 3 sts (21 sts) Finish off, leaving sufficient tail remaining to secure Eyelid over Eyeball(s). Beak/Bill : (Make 1) with Carrot, Chain 2, (2 hdc, DC, 2 hdc) in 2nd ch from hook Finish off, leaving sufficient tail remaining to secure Beak centered to front of Head just under Eye(s). Wing : (Make 2) Wing is UNSTUFFED with Lemon, Rnd 1: Using either the [ch 2, begin work in 2nd st from hook] or [magic circle] method to begin project, 6 sc in st (6 sts)
Rnd 2: [sc in nxt st, Inc in nxt st] 3 times (9 sts) Rnd 3: [sc in ea of nxt 2 sts, Inc in nxt st] 3 times (12 sts)
Rnd 4: [sc in nxt st, Inc in nxt st] 6 times (18 sts) Rnd 5: sc in ea st around (18 sts)
Rnd 6: [sc in ea of nxt 5 sts, Inc in nxt st] 3 times (21 sts) Rnd 7: [sc in ea of nxt 6 sts, Inc in nxt st] 3 times (24 sts)
Rnds 8-10: sc in ea st around (24 sts/ea rnd) Rnd 11/ROW: Squeeze front and back pieces flat together – working through both thicknesses (4 lps total) sc across, closing the opening for a count of 12 sc. TURN (12 sts)
ROW 2: {(sc, hdc, 2 DC, hdc, sc) in nxt st, skp nxt st, slst in nxt st, skp nxt st} 3 times Finish off, leaving sufficient tail remaining to secure Wing to side of Body. (pinch end of Wing to give appearance of flight) Foot : (Make 2/complete) with Gold, Rnd 1: Using either the [ch 2, begin work in 2nd st from hook] or [magic circle] method to begin project, 6 sc in st (6 sts)
Rnd 2: [Inc in nxt st] 6 times (12 sts) Rnd 3: [sc in nxt st, Inc in nxt st] 6 times (18 sts)
Rnds 4-5: sc in ea st around (18 sts/ea rnd) Rnd 6: [sc in ea of nxt 7 sts, Dec nxt 2 sts tog] twice (16 sts)
Rnd 7: sc in ea st around (16 sts) Rnd 8: [sc in ea of nxt 6 sts, Dec nxt 2 sts tog] twice (14 sts)
Rnd 9: sc in ea st around (14 sts) Rnd 10: [sc in ea of nxt 5 sts, Dec nxt 2 sts tog] twice (12 sts)
Rnds 11-17: sc in ea st around (12 sts/ea rnd) Rnd 18: [Dec nxt 2 sts tog] 6 times (6 sts)
Finish off, leaving sufficient tail remaining to weave through the front loops of Rnd 18 to close opening so that no stuffing can escape. After joining Toe, secure Foot to Body.

Toe : (Make 2)
with Gold,
Rnd 1: Using either the [ch 2, begin work in 2nd st from hook] or [magic circle] method to begin project, 6 sc in st (6 sts) Rnd 2: [Inc in nxt st] 6 times (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [sc in ea of nxt 3 sts, Inc in nxt st] 3 times (15 sts) Rnds 4-5: sc in ea st around (15 sts/ea rnd)
Rnd 6: sc in ea of nxt 13 sts, Dec nxt 2 sts tog (14 sts) Rnd 7: sc in ea st around (14 sts)
Rnd 8: [sc in ea of nxt 5 sts, Dec nxt 2 sts tog] twice (12 sts) _ Rnd 9: sc in ea st around (12 sts)
Finish off, leaving sufficient tail remaining to secure Toe to Foot.

Materials:
Threads any, the main thing is that they are the same thickness. I have Gazzal baby. Spices for your yarn (I have 1.5) Two beads or half-beads for the eye, a strong thread for the tightener.
Legend:
L – facial
Out-of-purity
Prib – increase
Ub – reduction
First we’ll tie up all sorts of trifles.
Step (4 pieces) – you can make all the details in different colors, you can use one color, you can use the lower parts of one, the upper one is different.
We type 5 loops. We knit the facial smoothness with turning rows. Additions I make from broaches or from an overturned cape.
1. 1л, приб, 3л, приб, 1л = 7
And all even – purl
3. 1L, arr, 5л, приб, 1л = 9
5. 1 liter, prib, 7 liters, prib, 1 liter. = 11
Note// All the turning rows (here and in other details) I knit grandmother’s loops. So knitting gets denser
6-12 rows – 11 persons. (7 rows of facial smoothness)
13. 1л, уб, 5л, уб, 1 л = 9
15. 1n, yb, 3n, yb, 1n = 7
17. 1n, yb, 1n, yb, 1n = 5.
18. Close. On two details leave the long ends for stitching. Sew the parts in pairs, filling the netto. Embroider, pulling, fingers.
Note// In knitted toys there is usually no edgeband. That is, all the loops are tied, beginning with the first. But if it is more convenient for you with edgebanding, do not worry, and knit, considering the first and last loops as edge bands.

Amigurumi Multi Colored Puppies Free Pattern

Legs (2 pieces) Dial 12 loops, leaving a long end for sewing to the foot, spread on circular knitting needles, tie 40 rows. Loops close. Fold the edge of the resulting tube flat, sew the edge, cut off the thread, leaving a long end for sewing. We fill the net, the top part can be left empty. And you can and do not stuff. Bottom sewn to the foot. You can knit your legs striped, it’s fashionable to tie “socks” or pants of shorts – 5-6 rows. For the edging of pants and sleeves, we collect 16 loops, we sew 1 row of faces, and in the second we close. You can simply tie a chain of air loops crocheted and sew it on top of the socks or bottom of the pants or tie 5 rows of a semi-patent rubber band with a change of color (1-persons a row of other colors, 2,4-faces., Remove with crochet 3, 5-persons.) Not for the edging of the trousers.

Ladoshki (4 pieces) We knit, like the feet, up to 18 rows inclusive, we do not close, we cut off the thread on two parts, leaving a long end for sewing, on two – we do not break off, we continue to knit further. In knitted toys there is usually no edgeband. That is, all the loops are tied, beginning with the first. But if it is more convenient for you with edgebanding, do not worry, and knit, considering the first and last loops as edge bands. Arms 5 persons, 5 persons on the second part (with a torn thread, we close the loop in a circle, we pass to the circular knitting needles, 5L, we make an increase from the broach, 5 persons, we make from the broach an increase. We compile 28 rows on 12 loops. and sew, tear off the thread, leaving the end for sewing.If you need a sleeve – tie the last 8 rows of blouse color, for the cuff sewn stripes, like on trousers. Ladies sew, stuffing. We embroider fingers, slightly pulling. We stuff the handles, the upper part is weaker, you can leave the last five rows completely empty.Instead of striped cuffs, you can simply tie three rows of garter stitch, but I do not really like how it behaves when padded – it stretches. Maybe it’s just me so). Tail We knit the facial smoothness with turning rows. Type 14 loops 1 row – purl 2 rows – 1л, уб, 8л, уб, 1л = 12 3-5 rows of 12 loops 6 series: 1л, уб, 6л, уб, 1 = 10 7-9 rows – faces smooth 10 10 rows – 1л, уб, 4л, уб, 1 = 8 11-13 – of the faces of the smooth surface 8 14 series – 1n, yb, 2n, yb, 1n = 6 15-16 rows – facial smoothness, the thread is cut off, leaving a long end for sewing and sewing to the body. Pull the end of the thread through the hinges, tighten, sew the tail, fill. On the ears you can cheer, bind them, for example, with ornament, double knitting. On one of the dogs I have hearts loosened. Ears (4 parts) Dial 7 loops. We knit the facial smoothness with turning rows. 1 row – 1л, приб, 5л, приб, 1л = 9 2 and all even – purl. 3 rows – 1n, arr, 7l, arr, 1n = 11 5 rows – 1L, arr, 9l, arr, 1n = 13 6-8 rows – facial smoothness. If you want ears more authentic – add here a couple of rows. 9 rows – 1л, уб, 7л, уб, 1 = 11 10-13 – facial surface 14 rows – 1л, уб, 5л, уб, 1л = 9 15-17 – facial smoothness Instead of striped cuffs, you can simply tie three rows of garter stitch, but I do not really like how it behaves when padded – it stretches. Maybe it’s just me so). On the ears you can cheer, bind them, for example, with ornament, double knitting. On one of the dogs I have hearts loosened. 18 series – 1л, уб, 3л, уб, 1л = 7 19-23 – facial smoothness. Close. On the two parts leave the long end of the thread for stitching and sewing. Steaming off the ears after stitching.

Nose We knit the front face with turning rows Dial 3 loops. 1. ln, arr, ln, arr, ln = 5 2. Wrong 3. 1L, prib, 3 liters, prib, 1L. = 7 4. purl 5. 1L, arr, 5L, arr, 1L. = 9 6-10 – facial smoothness 11 series of 1n, yb, 3n, yb, 1n = 7; 12th row – Reliable 13 series – 1n, yb, 1n, yb, 1n = 5; 14th row – Reliable 15 rows – 1L, 3 together persons, 1L = 3. The thread is torn off leaving a long end for sewing. Sew it in the remaining loops, tighten. Body Collect 8 loops color panties, leaving a long end for sewing holes, close in a circle. 1. (1л, приб) х8 = 16 2 and all even – just to hang the loops, no extra increases and deductions. 3 – (2л, приб) х8 = 24 5- (3л, приб) х8 = 32 7 – (4л, приб) х8 = 40 9 – (5л, приб) х8 = 48 11 – (6л, приб) х8 = 56 12- 19 rows – 56L Now we fix the ass. 20 -1l уб, 50л, уб, 1л = 54 21-22 – facial smoothness. 23 – 1л, уб, 48л, уб, 1л = 52 24-25 – facial smoothness 26 – 1л, уб, 46л, уб, 1л = 50 28 – 1л, уб, 44л, уб, 1л = 48 30 – (6л, уб) х6 = 42 Change the color to the color of the shirt. 31 – 51 21 face series 52 -12л, уб, 2л, уб, 6л, уб, 2л, уб, 12 = 38 54 -8л, уб, 18 уб, 8л = 36 55 – 57 – 36L 58 – (4л, уб) х6 = 30 60 – (3л, уб) х6 = 24 62 – (1л, уб) х8) = 16 63-67 – five rows of facial (3 rows of color blouses, 2 rows – change color to the color of the head). The body is full. We do not tear off the thread, we continue to knit our head. Head 68 – (2л, приб) х8 = 24 70 – (3л, приб) х8 = 32 72 – (4л, приб) х8 = 40 74 – (5л, приб) х8 = 48 76 – 20L, Prib, 1L, Prib, 6L, Prib, 1L, Prib, 20n = 52 78 – 21л, приб, 1л, приб, 8л, приб, 1л, приб, 21л = 56 80 – 23L, Prib, 10L, Prib, 23L = 58 82 – 24l, prib, 10l, prib, 24 = 60 84 – 25l, prib, 10l, prib, 25n = 62 86 – 26L, Prib, 10l, Prib, 26 = 64 We untangle the muzzle 88 – 27л + 9л, уб, поворот, 1 loop to remove, 8us, 2 together, turn = 63 * (1 loop to take off, 8L, 2 together, turn. If you want the muzzle to be of a different color, a group of loops starting from 1L to 1L is knitted with a different color. How to do it – I’ll tell you later, but now the basic description. 1 remove the loop, 8L, 2 together, turn) * x7raz On the spokes will not remain 48 loops, turn, and we finish the series until the end. 90 – 91 -48L 92 – 14л, (приб, 4) х5, приб, 14 = 54 93-103 – 11 rows of facial 104 – (7л, уб) х6 = 48 106 – (6л, уб) х6 = 42 108 – (5л, уб,) = 36 110 – (4л, уб) = 30 112 – (3л, уб) = 24 114 – (2л, уб) х6 = 18

Head to fill, especially carefully fill the muzzle, giving it the right shape. 116 – (1л, уб) = 12 118 – 6уб, tear off the thread, extend the tip through loops, tighten, fasten and hide. Now I’ll tell you how to connect the muzzle with another color. We will knit by intarsia. It differs from jacquard in that when a jacquard thread is stretched from the wrong side, with intarsia, each colored area is knit from the other tangle. At us color sites two, and they are connected from two parties. So, we will knit with turning rows. 1. When you twist the threads of different colors you need to cross, you can even double. 2. We loop the first loop after the turn, but do not remove it. 3. We tighten the thread after the rotation as tightly as possible. 4. After knitting the colored section, the thread is cut off with a stock that can be useful, if holes are formed at the places where the color changes.

A dog in red panties, with a narrow strip on his forehead So, there is a color A – a muzzle and color B – a head. I draw your attention to the fact that the next part of the description is given on two lines at once, but we will knit by parts, now and then turning knitting. So, each paragraph is two lines, you do not need to tie up additional rows. It is convenient to knit if the hinges of color A are on a separate spoke. (B) 19 a, (A), 14 rel., Turn (B) 19n = (B) 19L, (A) 1L, prib, 1n, prib, 6l, 52 (A) 18 rel., Rotation, 19L, (A), A, B, = 56 80-81 – (B) 19L, (A) 4L, arr, 10l, arr, 4l, turn, (B) 38 out, (A) 20 out, turn (B) 19L = 58 82-83 – (B) 19L, (A) 5L arr, 10l, arr, 5l, turn, 38 out, (A) 22 out, turn, (B) 19 liters. = 60 (B) 19 L, (A) 6L, arr, 10l, arr, 6l, turn, (B) 38 out, (A) 24 out, turn (B) 19 L = 62 86-87 – (B) 19L, (A) 7L, arr, 10l, arr, 7l, turn, (B) 38 out, (A) 26 out, turn, 19 L = 64 We untangle the muzzle 88-89 – (B) 19l (A) (from here we knit only with a thread (A), but we do not break the thread (B)! 8n + 9n, yb, turn, 1 remove the loop, 8in, 2 together, turn = 63 * (1 loop to take off, 8L, 2 together, turn 1 remove the loop, 8L, 2 together, turn) * x6 times (A) 1 remove the loop, 8L, 2 together, turn (B) 38 out, (A) 9L, 2 together, turn (B) 19 persons (B) 19 persons, (A) 10 persons, turn, (B) 1 from the beginning, about 4 out of, about, 28 out of, about, 4 out, about, 1 in, turn (A) 10 out, turn. (B) 21l. (B) 21 liters, (A) 3l, arr, 4l, arr, 3l, turn. (B) 42in, (A) 12 out, turn, (B) 21L (B) 23n, (A) 8n, turn, (B) 46in, (A) 8 out, turn, (B) 23 l (B) 24L, (A) 6L, turn, 48 out, (A) 6syn, turn, 24 persons. (B) 25L, (A) 1L, YB, 1L, turn, (B) 50 out, (A) 3in, turn, (B) 25 persons (B) 25л, (А) 3л, turn, (B) 50 изн, (А) 3изн, turn, (В) 25 persons – repeat 2 more times. (B) 26L, (A) 1L, (B) 26L. The thread (A) is torn off, leaving a long end to sew up holes (if образо formed) 104 – (7 persons, уб) х2, 8 persons + 7 persons (уб, 7 persons) х2, уб = 48 (we have already reduced one loop when tying a strip on the forehead) 106 – (6л, уб) х6 = 42 108 – (5л, уб,) = 36 110 – (4л, уб) = 30 112 – (3л, уб) = 24 114 – (2л, уб) х6 = 18 Head to fill, especially carefully fill the muzzle, giving it the right shape. 116 – (1л, уб) = 12 118 – 6ub. Thread through the remaining loops, donate the head, pull off the hole, fasten and hide the thread.

Extension. Insert the needle behind the base of the neck, remove the muzzle and head at the junction, retreat to put on the bead, insert the needle back, lead to 1-2 loops away from the thread entrance point. Pull back the bead by about half. If the eyes are glued, then do the operation without a bead, stepping back 1-2 hinges on the muzzle from the exit. Polubusinku or other glazik paste in the resulting groove. Do the same with the second eye. If the transition from the head to the muzzle itself seems not bright enough, you can insert the needle into the neck from behind, withdraw it in the right eye socket, insert it on the left into the neck, return to the neck and pull it together. The thread in this case is better to take the colors of the muzzle.

Assembly: Sew ears, paws, tail, spout. When sewing a tail, try on it to be a support when sitting. Ljamochki to panties. We type 25 loops, we knit 1 row face, in the second row close. Breast to panties. We type 60 loops, we knit 1 row of faces, in the second row we close 22 loops, 16 l, leave these loops unclosed, the other loops are closed. The thread is cut off, leaving the end for sewing. We attach the thread to 16 loops. We knit: 1 row – 1 edge, 14 faces, 1 edge 2 rows – 1 edge, 2 faces, 10us, 2 persons, 1 chrome. We knit these two rows until we reach the desired height. We impose three rows of facial, in the 4th row close. We sew the belt to the line of color change. Sew the buttons to the small bags, while attaching to the breast. Sew the laces in front. (We sew on the back later, so you can stretch your little breeches.) You can sew them together side-by-side or crosswise). Belt of panties. We type 60 loops, we knit 1 row with facial, in the second row we close.

I wanted to try out this new scalloped crochet stitch, so decided I’d make a house. As they seemed to look very much like a kids version of a roof-top with all that scaly texture. This pattern should work for most standard tissue boxes. Mine was approximately 22 x 13 cm, and it fit most other boxes lying around at my house. However I’ve given it some cardboard padding  in triangular shape to make them stand upright at the roof part as I want it to. Hope you can make sense, as to how I’ve cut and stuck my cardboard for the desired support.

Amigurumi Crochet Country House Tissue Box Cover Free Pattern

House Roof-top:
Yarn : Acrylic brown
Hook: 5mm
1: Chain 41.
2: dc in the sixth chain from the hook, 1 dc, chain 1, skip 2 chains, 1 dc, chain 1, skip 2 chains, [2 dc, chain 1, skip 2 chains, 1 dc, chain 1, skip 2 chains] * repeat till the end.
3: Make 5 dc in each side of the 2 dc from the previous row… Or just ignore this explanation for the roof part and just follow the video.
Make four rows of the scalloped detailing, and for the other side of the roof make 3 rows and leave a slot in the fourth row to pull out the tissues. Join the two pieces of roof, and also single crochet around the entire roof for a neat edge around it.

House walls:
Yarn: White acrylic yarn
Hook : 4mm
For the width of the house tissue box cover,

1. Chain 21.
2. Starting from the second chain from the hook, 19 sc.
3. Turn Ch 1, 19 sc.
   :
   18: Turn Ch 1, 19 sc.
   19: Turn Ch 1, 19 sc.
   20: Turn skip 1, Ch 1, 15 sc.
   21: Turn skip 1, Ch 1, 11 sc.
   22: Turn skip 1, Ch 1, 7 sc.
   23: Turn skip 1, Ch 1, 3 sc.
   24: Turn skip 1, Ch1. Finish and weave the ends.
   Make two of these.
   For the length of the house tissue box cover,
4. Chain 39.
5. Starting from the second chain from the hook, 37 sc.
6. Turn Ch 1, 37 sc.
   :
   18: Turn Ch 1, 37 sc.
   19: Turn Ch 1, 37 sc. Finish and weave the ends.
   Now its time to join all of the parts.

I used a single crochet join so that, it gives an effect of the walls being perpendicular to one another. To join the roof I used a brown colored yarn.

The windows and doors are pretty much self-explanatory and you can place them  however you please.

Supplies:
cotton yarn – I used worsted (10 ply) weight Rowan Handknit Cotton (50 g / 85 m) – beige, white, brown, dark red, light red
crochet hook 3.5 mm
polyester fiberfill
some felt for making the eyes (white, blue, black)
button for the dress
Abbreviations:
ch – chain, sl st – slip stitch, sc – single crochet, dc – douple crochet, rep – repeat
WORK IN CONTINUOUS ROUNDS. DO NOT JOIN OR TURN UNLESS OTHERWISE INSTRUCTED.
IT WOULD BE WISE TO USE A STITCH MARKER AND PLACE IT IN THE FIRST STITCH OF EACH ROUND TO MARK THE BEGINNING OF IT.
LEAVE EACH PIECE A LONG TAIL FOR SEWING.

Amigurumi Lotte From Gadgetville Dog Girl Free Pattern

HEAD
Crochet from front to back.
1: Beige. Magic ring and 6 sc into it.
2: Work 2 sc in each st around = 12
3: (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 18
4: (sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 24
5: (sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 30
6: (sc in each of next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 36
7: (sc in each of next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 42
8-19: Sc in each st around
20: (sc in each of next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 48
21: (sc in each of next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 54
22-26: Sc in each st around
27: (sc in each of next 7 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times = 48
28: Sc in each st around
29: (sc in each of next 6 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times = 42
30: Sc in each st around
31: (sc in each of next 5 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times = 36
32: Sc in each st around
33: (sc in each of next 4 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times = 30
34: (sc in each of next 3 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times = 24
35: (sc in each of next 2 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times = 18
36: (sc in next st, sc2tog) rep 6 times = 12
37: (sc2tog) rep 6 times = 6
Close the hole.

NOSE
1: Brown. Magic ring and 6 sc into it.
2: Work 2 sc in each st around = 12
3: (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 18
4: Sc in each st around
Add a little bit of stuffing and sew it into the proper place.
Cut the eyes from the felt and sew on. Stitch a mouth.

EAR (make 2)
1: Light red. Magic ring and 6 sc into it.
2: Work 2 sc in each st around = 12
3: (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 18
4: (sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 24
5: (sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 30
6-10: Sc in each st around
11: (sc in each of next 8 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times = 27
12: (sc in each of next 7 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times = 24
13: Sc in each st around
14: (sc in each of next 6 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times = 21
15: Sc in each st around
16: (sc in each of next 5 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times = 18
17-18: Sc in each st around
19: (sc in each of next 4 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times = 15
20-21: Sc in each st around
22: (sc in each of next 3 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times = 12
23-24: Sc in each st around
25: (sc in each of next 2 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times = 9
26: Sc in each st around
Attach the ears into the right place and make a hair tuft from the same color of yarn.

BODY
1: White. Magic ring and 6 sc into it.
2: Work 2 sc in each st around = 12
3: (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 18
4: (sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 24
5: (sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 30
6: (sc in each of next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 36
7: (sc in each of next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 42
8: (sc in each of next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 48
9-14: Sc in each st around
15: (sc in each of next 6 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times = 42
16-18: Sc in each st around
19: (sc in each of next 5 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times = 36
20-21: Sc in each st around
22: (sc in each of next 4 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times = 30
23-24: Sc in each st around
25: (sc in each of next 3 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times = 24
26: Sc in each st around
27-28: Beige. Sc in each st around

LEG (make 2)
1: Brown. Magic ring and 6 sc into it.
2: (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) rep 3 times = 9
3: (sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 3 times = 12
4: (sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 3 times = 15
5: (sc in each of next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 3 times = 18
6: Sc in each st around
7: (sc in each of next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 3 times = 21
8-9: Sc in each st around
10: (sc in each of next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 3 times = 24
11-13: Sc in each st around
14: Turn. Starting from the next st sc in each of next 18 sts (the rest of the sts are left out of the work at the moment)
15: Turn. Starting from the next st sc in each of next 16 sts
16: Turn. Starting from the next st sc in each of next 14 sts
17: Turn. Starting from the next st sc in each of next 12 sts
18: Turn. Starting from the next st sc in each of next 10 sts
19: Turn. Starting from the next st sc in each of next 8 sts
20: Turn. Starting from the next st sc in each of next 6 sts
21: Hereafter work in continuous rounds! Turn. Start from the next st and pick up 24 sts.
22: (sc in each of next 6 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times = 21
23: (sc in each of next 5 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times = 18
24: Beige. (sc in each of next 4 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times = 15
25: Sc in each st around
26: (sc in each of next 3 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times = 12
27-46: Sc in each st around
47: (sc in each of next 2 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times = 9

ARM (make 2)
1: Beige. Magic ring and 6 sc into it.
2: Work 2 sc in each st around = 12
3: (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 18
4: (sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times = 24
5-6: Sc in each st around
7: (sc in each of next 2 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times = 18
8: (sc in each of next 4 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times = 15
9: Sc in each st around
10: (sc in each of next 3 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times = 12
11-12: Sc in each st around
13: Sc in each of next 10 sts, sc2tog = 11
14-16: Sc in each st around
17: Sc in each of next 9 sts, sc2tog = 10
18-23: Sc in each st around
24-28: White. Sc in each st around
29: Sc in each of next 8 sts, sc2tog = 9
30: Sc in each st around
Attach the head to the body. Sew arms and legs to the proper place.

DRESS
1: Ch 38. Starting from the 3rd st from hook make sc in each st = 36
2: Turn, ch 2. Starting from the same st dc in each of next 5 sts, (2 dc in the next st, dc in the next 4 sts) rep 5 times, 2 dc in the next st, dc in each of next 5 sts = 42
3: Turn, ch 2. Dc in each st
4: Turn, ch 2. Starting from the same st (dc in each of next 5 sts, 2 dc in the next st) rep 3 times, dc in each of next 6 sts, (dc in each of next 5 sts, 2 dc in the next st) rep 3 times = 48
5: Turn, ch 2. Dc in each st
6: Turn, ch 2. Starting from the same st (dc in each of next 6 sts, 2 dc in the next st) rep 6 times, dc in each of next 6 sts = 54
7: Turn, ch 2. Dc in each st
Cut the yarn. For making the straps, take the dress in front of you narrow edge on the top.
Count 13 sts from the right side to the left and bring the yarn through the next st.
Make 1 sc in the same and in the next st. (Turn, ch 1. Sc in each of next 2 sts) rep 11 times. Cut the yarn.
Make the second strap just like the first one, leaving 6 sts between them.
Border the dress with sc.
Attach the straps to the back side of the dress with a couple of sts.
Make a button hole and sew on a button.

Scottish terrier
Here I will share with you how I made my Scottish terrier, Buster.
Buster is roughly 30 cm long and 25 cm tall, but the final size is dependant on factors
such as the thickness of the yarn and what size hook you’ve used, so it might vary
somewhat.
I will say right off the bat that English isn’t my first language, so apologies for any
mistakes or weird phrasings…
I’m going to assume that you are familiar with basic (US) terms and how to make a
magic circle. If you don’t, try for instance YouTube, where you can find many useful
tutorials.

Required materials
• Yarn. I used ca 140 g of acrylic yarn. You can use something else if you prefer,
just remember that cotton yarn doesn’t work as it can’t be brushed out. Just
about any acrylic or wool (or a mix with either of these) should work. It’s a
bonus if the yarn is soft and splits ends easily. The tighter it is spun, the harder
you will work at later stages.
• Crochet hook. I used a size 3.5 mm. If needed, change size to suit your yarn of
choice. You shouldn’t see gaps in your work.
• A suitable needle for sewing the parts together.
• Filling. I buy cheap pillows aty IKEA and other stores and use their filling.
• Safety nose and eyes, unless you want to embroider those details.
• A slicker brush. You can find one in a pet store if needed – get a heavy duty
dog one, not a measly rabbit brush.
• Patience. And lots of it.
The process
You can divide the making of Buster into four main parts. First off you will crochet all
body parts and assemble them. Next is to attach the fur, which in my opinion is the
most boring part. Last the fur will be brushed, clipped and styled. After that you’re
done!

Amigurumi Crochet Dog Scottish Terrier Free Pattern

Part 1: The body parts
Let’s get started! Time to crochet, and how. All parts are done in a continous spiral.
Make the following body parts:

Head
Row 1: Make a magic circle of 6 sc
Row 2: Inc in every sc around (12)
Row 3: [1 sc, 1 inc] around (18)
Row 4: [2 sc, 1 inc] around (24)
Row 5 – 14: sc around (24)
Row 15: [1 Inc] 6 times in a row (so first 6 sc = 12 sc), then 1 sc around (30)
Row 16: sc around (30)
Row 17: [1 inc] 6 times in a row, 1 sc around (36)
Row 18 – 25: sc around (36)
Row 26: [4 sc, Dec in next] around (30)
Row 27: [3 sc, Dec in next] around (24)
Row 28: [2 sc, Dec in next] around (18)
Now might be a good time to start adding the filling… and attach the eyes and nose,
if you’re using safety ones!
Row 29: [1 sc, Dec in next] around (12)
Row 30: Dec around, sew together the opening (after adding the last of the filling).
Leave a long tail.
The head should resemble an elongated thingie with a clear forehead (called a stop in
dog circles), marked as ”upp” here. Not unlike a misshapen baguette.

Ears (make 2)
Row 1: Make a magic circle of 4 sc (4)
Row 2: 1 sc, then Inc, repeat once (6)
Row 3: 2 sc, then Inc, repeat once (8)
Row 4: 3 sc, then Inc, repeat once (10)
Row 5: 4 sc, then Inc, repeat once (12)
Row 6: 5 sc, then Inc, repeat once (14)
Row 7: sc around (14)
Finish off, leaving long tail. Do not add filling.
The ears should be triangular, a bit elongated and flat.

Body
Row 1: Make a magic circle of 6 sc
Row 2: Inc in every sc around (12)
Row 3: [1 sc, 1 inc] around (18)
Row 4: [2 sc, 1 inc] around (24)
Row 5: [3 sc, 1 inc] around (30)
Row 6: [4 sc, 1 inc] around (36)
Row 7: [5 sc, 1 inc] around (42)
Row 8: [6 sc, 1 inc] around (48)
Row 9-15:sc around (48)
Row 16: Now we are going to Dec 1 by each row, always when starting a new row,
followed by sc around the rest. So row 16 will end with 47 sc, row 17 ends with 46 sc
etc. Continue doing this until…
Row 30: Dec 1, sc around (32)
Row 31: Stop decreasing! Sc around (32)
Row 32-46: sc around (32)
Row 47: 15 sc, Dec – repeat once (30)
Row 48: [3 sc, Dec] around (24)
Row 49: [2 sc, Dec] around (18)
Now might be a good time to add the filling.
Row 50: [1 sc, Dec] around (12)
Row 51: Dec around, add last of filling and sew together. Sew in tail.
You should now have an elongated shape with a clear ribcage. The thick end goes
towards the head (labelled ”huvud”) and the thin is the butt. The plane side is the
back and the angled is the underside.
Neck
Row 1: Chain 18, close with a sl st. Try to save a long tail (ie. start further down on
the yarn than you would otherwise).
Row 2-10: Inc 1 at start of every row, then sc around. So row 2 has 19 sc, row 3 has
20 etc. Do this until row 10 when you should have 27 sc. Finish off, saving long tail.
You should now have an elongated, slightly triangular tube. The thinner part goes to
the head (”upp”). The ”point” goes down towards the front of the chest (not the back
– ”rygg”).

Legs (make 4)
Row 1: Make a magic circle of 6 sc
Row 2: Inc in every sc around (12)
Row 3: [1 sc, 1 inc] around (18)
Row 4-19: sc around (18)
Add filling but save a bit of room at the top of each leg. Flatten and sew the opening
together. Leave a long tail.
You should have four feeties.
Tail
Row 1: Make a magic circle of 4 sc (4)
Row 2: 1 sc, then Inc, repeat once (6)
Row 3: 2 sc, then Inc, repeat once (8)
Row 4: 3 sc, then Inc, repeat once (10)
Row 5: sc around (10)
Row 6: 4 sc, then Inc, repeat once (12)
Row 7-10: sc around (12)
Add a bit of filling to the tail but not too much, it shouldn’t look fat. Leave a long yarn
tail.

Part 2: Assembly
Time to sew all the parts together!
For the neck – start with attaching the larger end to the body. Add filling. Now fold the
top end of the neck portion in a bit, so you will actually sew into the 2nd or 3rd row
rather than the first. This gives a bit of extra stability. Try to make the head–neck–
body transition as seamless as you can, it’s a bit tricky. Stop and check now and then
how it’s coming along.
The hind legs are angled back while the frontlegs are straight under the body.
Remember to put the frontlegs fairly far forward, a scotty shouldn’t have a lot of
forechest.
Make sure to attach all parts well! You will work hard when brushing out the fur and
it’s not fun if the parts start to fall off.
If you are going to embroider the nose and eyes, now is a good time. When I made
my Scotty I did this as the very last step and it was a total mess, the newly brushed
and trimmed fur did everything in its power to be in the way as I was working the
needle.
It should look something like this…
(translation: Spets = point, Smal = thin, Raka = Straight, Vinklade = angled)

Part 3: Attaching fur
Now it’s time to cut approx. 5 billion strands of yarn, each ca 7-10 cm long. I usually
fold the yarn so I can cut several strands at once – saving me time – and then attach
them before cutting new ones. Gives you a little bit of variation at least.
When attaching the strands, pull your crochet hook under a chosen stitch on your dog.
Now fold the strand into an U-shaped loop. Then use the crochet hook to pull the loop
under the stitch before pulling the yarn ends through the loop, securing it to the
stitch. It sounds a lot more complicated than it is!
Add a strand to every (or just about every. Most of them, at any rate) stitch on the
sides and undersides of the muzzle, as eyebrows, on the front side of the chest, on
the legs except the undersides and the underside of the body. Yes, it takes forever.
Put on a good movie (or five).

Part 4: Brushing and trimming
Go get your (potentially new and shiny) slicker brush and now brush all the attached
strands until they become beautifully fluffy and fur-like. Don’t be afraid to use hard
strokes, depending on your yarn it might take a while. The brush will collect some fluff
that you need to remove now and then, it can be saved as ultra soft filling if you wish.
(Don’t forget to protect the eyes and nose while using the brush close to them. The
brush can damage the plastic or your beautiful embroidened details)
The ”smooth” parts aren’t intended to be brushed. But feel free to do so if you want a
more ”ragged” look.
When you have brushed all the fur it’s time for the most fun part – time to play dog
groomer!

I recommend to start by googling some photos of Scottish terriers, to get an idea of
what it should look like. But in short form the beard so it has a nice gradual look
towards the skull, fix up the eyebrows a bit. Remove quite a bit from the frontchest, it
should have an almost straight line from the throat and down to the ground. Even the
legs out all around (don’t forget to check what they look like from below) but try to
leave the body fur long, just even it out. Keep alternating between brushing and
trimming until you’re satisfied.
Now your doggie is aaalmost done. But he deserves a collar, don’t you think? Thought
so.
I made mine using a cotton blend, to make it appear different from the coat. Pick a
suitable clour and do a chain of around 35 (double check to see if this fits your dog,
since it might be a different size from mine). Chain 2 extra, turn. Now hdc to the end.
Repeat once more (chain 2, turn, hdc to the end) or until you’re satisfied with the
width. Don’t forget to save a long tail.
Now take the colour for the ”ID-badge”. Do a magic circle of 6, then Inc around (12).

Finish with a sl st. Now chain 12 and then a sl st back into the badge, so you have a
nice little loop attachment.
Thread the collar through the loop, then put on the dog and sew the ends together.
NOW you are done! Congrats, you have made your very own Scotty!