Materials:
– Worsted-weight yarn (4-ply) in any two colors. (The U.K. equivalent is Aran, and AUS/NZ is 8 ply.) For my llama, I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in the color “Orchid” and Lion Brand’s Vanna’s Choice in the color “Beige”. You’ll also need a small amount of black yarn for the nose.
– G (4 mm) crochet hook
– 15 mm black safety eyes
– Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice) 
– Bent tip tapestry needle
– Scissors 
– Stitch marker 
– Straight pins

Abbreviation Key
Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.
sc – single crochet
st/sts – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch
dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
bs – berry stitch
BLO – back loops only
R1 – round 1
rep – repeat
** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.

Amigurumi Crochet Llama Boris Free Pattern:

Head (starting in color A)
R1: ch 7, starting in 2^nd ch from hook, sc 6, now rotate your work 180 degrees and work in the front loops of the ch, starting in the first front loop, sc 6 (12 sts)

This is called starting your work with a foundation chain and is a great way to start a piece you want to be more oval than round. After crocheting through the top loops of the chain, you turn your work upside down so that the sts you just crocheted are at the bottom and the front or bottom loops of the chain are now at the top. These are the sts you will now work into. Once you’re at the end of the row, the first round is complete! Now you just continue as you normally would working in the round. Watch this video to learn how to crochet into both sides of a foundation chain.

R2: inc 2, sc 3, inc 3, sc 3, inc 1 (18 sts)
R3: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R4: *sc 1, inc* rep 2 times, sc 6, *sc 1, inc* rep 3 times, sc 7, inc (30 sts)
R5: *inc, sc 4* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R6: *sc 2, inc* rep 2 times, sc 9, *sc 2, inc* rep 3 times, sc 11, inc (42 sts)
R7: *sc 6, inc* rep 6 times (48 sts)
Switch to color B

Making the Berry Stitch
Now we are going to be making the curly fur. To make the fur curly, we will be using the berry stitch (bs). To make the berry stitch, insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull through. Now, working with only the front loop on the hook, ch 4. Now yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook. Your berry stitch is completed. Watch this video to learn how to crochet the berry stitch.

Basically, from here on out, every other stitch will be a bs. I’ve written out the pattern here exactly how I did it. If you miss a bs here and there, don’t worry, it’s a very forgiving stitch. Just make sure you have the correct stitch count at the end of each round.

Continuing on
R8: *sc 1, bs 1* rep 4 times, *sc 1, make 1 bs and 1 sc in the next st, bs 1, make 1 sc and 1 bs in the next
st* rep 4 times, *sc 1, bs 1* rep 12 times (56 sts)
R9: *bs 1, sc 1* rep 28 times (56 sts)
R10: *sc 1, bs 1* rep 28 times (56 sts)
R11-18: Rep R9-10 (you’ll be repeating those rounds 4 times for a total of 8 more rounds)

Adding the Eyes
Stop and insert the 15mm safety eyes between R5 & 6. See the photo below for the exact placement. Where the arrows point is where you should insert the eyes.

Now we will start decreasing. We will be continuing just as we were with every other st being a bs. To make a berry stitch decrease, start making a regular decrease by inserting your hook into the first st, yarn over, pull through, then insert hook into the next st, yarn over pull through. You now have 3 loops on your hook. Using the loop closest to the tip of the hook, ch 4, now yarn over and draw your hook through all loops. Your bs dec is complete. (Above video also demonstrates how to make the berry stitch decrease.) We abbreviate the berry stitch decrease as “bs dec”.
R19: *bs 1, sc 1* rep 5 times, *bs 1, dec 1* rep 8 times, *bs 1, sc 1* rep 11 times (48 sts)
R20: *sc, bs, sc, bs, sc, bs, dec* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R21: *Sc, bs, sc, bs, sc, bs dec* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R22: *Bs, sc, bs, sc, bs dec* rep 6 times (30 sts)
Stop and start to stuff the head firmly, continuing to stuff as you work.
R23: *bs, sc, bs, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R24: *sc, bs, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R25: *sc, bs dec* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R26: *1 sc dec, 1 bs dec* rep 3 times (6 sts)

Finish off. Finish stuffing head firmly and use tail to sew up hole neatly (this part will be visible) then weave the remaining tail into the head.

Muzzle (using color A)
R1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6 sts) (you can use the magic circle/ring if you prefer as it won’t make a difference in the end.
R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 3 times (9 sts)
R3: *sc 2, inc* rep 3 times (12 sts)
R4: *sc 3, inc* rep 3 times (15 sts)
R5: *sc 4, inc* rep 3 times (18 sts)
Finish off leaving long tail for sewing.

Take a long piece of black yarn and, using your tapestry needle, embroider the llama’s nose. Watch this video to learn how to embroider the llama’s nose.

Stuff the muzzle lightly and pin it to the front of the llama’s head, centered between his eyes. Pining it in place using straight pins will help it stay in place while you’re sewing it on. Sew the muzzle to the head using the whipstitch.

Ears (make 2 using color A)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 3 times (9 sts)
R3: sc in all 9 sts (9 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 3 times (12 sts
R5-8: sc in all 12 sts (4 rounds total at 12 sts each)
R9: *sc 1, dec* rep 4 times (8 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Instead, flatten the piece, then sew the open end closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing. Watch this video to learn how to sew the open ends closed on a crocheted piece.

Then pinch the two bottom edges together and sew them together with a couple of stitches to create some shaping.

Position and pin the ears to R15 of the head spaced about 10 sts apart from each other. Sew the ears to the head using the whipstitch. Once you have finished sewing the ears on, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tails into the head.

Body (using color B)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2: *sc in next st, bs in same st as last sc* rep 6 times (12 sts);
R3: *sc 1, make 1 bs & 1 sc in next st, bs 1, make 1 sc & 1 bs in next st* rep 3 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 1, bs 1, 1 sc & 1 bs in next st* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 1, bs 1, sc 1, 1 bs & 1 sc in next st, 1 bs, 1 sc , 1 bs, 1 sc & 1 bs in next st* rep 3 times (30 sts)
R6: *bs, sc, bs, sc, 1 bs and 1 sc in next st* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7: *bs 1, sc 1* rep 18 times (36 sts)
R8: *sc 1, bs 1* rep 18 times (36 sts)
R9: *bs 1, sc 1* rep 18 times (36 sts)
R10: *sc 1, bs 1* rep 18 times (36 sts)
R11: *bs 1, sc 1* rep 18 times (36 sts)
R12: *sc, bs, sc, bs, dec, bs, sc, bs, sc, bs dec* rep 3 times (30 sts)
R13: *bs, sc, bs, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R14: *sc, bs* rep 12 times (24 sts)
R15: *bs, sc, bs dec, sc, bs, dec* rep 3 times (18 sts) Mark this round as we will sew the arms to this round later.
R16: *sc, bs* rep 9 times (18 sts)
R17: *bs, sc* rep 9 times (18 sts)
R18: *sc, bs* rep 9 times (18 sts)
R19: *bs, dec* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R20: *sc, bs* rep 3 times

Sewing the Body to the Head
Stuff the body firmly, making sure to add enough stuffing to the neck area so that he has plenty of support to hold the head up. Sew to the bottom of the head over R11-15 of the head.

Arms (make 2 starting in color A)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook
R2: *sc 2, inc* rep 2 times (8 sts)
R3: sc in all 8 sts (8 sts)
Switch to color B. We’ll be alternating with the berry stitch again for the rest of the arms.
R4: *sc, bs* rep 4 times (8 sts)
R5: *bs, sc* rep 4 times (8 sts)
R6-9: repeat R4-5 (you’ll be repeating those rounds 2 times for a total of 4 more rounds)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. There is no need to stuff the arms.

Flatten the tops of the arms and sew the open ends closed to create a flat edge for sewing like we did for the ears. Sew to either side of the body over R15 of the body.

Legs (make 2 starting in color A)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook
R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 4 times (9 sts)
R3: sc in all 9 sts (9 sts)
Switch to color B. We’ll be alternating with the berry stitch again for the rest of the legs.
R4: *sc, bs, 1 sc and 1 bs in next st* rep 3 times (12 sts)
R5: *sc, bs* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R6: *bs, sc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R7: *sc, bs* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R8-15: repeat R6-7 (you’ll be repeating those rounds 4 times for a total of 8 more rounds)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Flatten the top of each leg, and then sew the open end closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing (like we did for the ears).

Sewing the Legs to the Body
Position the legs to the sides of the body so that your llama is able to sit up on his own when you set him on a flat surface. I sewed the back flat edge of the legs to R5-9 of my llama’s body, but yours might be different, so make sure to set your llama on a flat surface to ensure he can sit on his own.
The tips of the legs should be spaced 3-4 sts from each other.
When you have the legs positioned where you want them, pin them into place using straight pins to keep them in place while you are sewing them on.

Starting where your finishing tail is on the top of the leg, sew the flat back edge of the leg to the body. Then, sew down three to four stitches from the top of the thigh to the body. When you have done that, weave the sewing tail down to the bottom of the leg and sew down three to four stitches of the bottom edge to secure. Repeat for the second leg.

When you are finished sewing the legs on, weave the remaining tails from both legs through to the back of the body and knot the two tails together to secure the sewing. Weave the remaining tails into the body to finish.

Blanket (starting in dark green yarn)
Blanket is worked entirely in rows, not rounds.
R1: ch 32, starting in 3^rd ch from hook, hdc 30, ch 2, turn
R2: hdc 30, switch to cream yarn, ch 2, turn
R3: hdc 30, ch 2, turn
R4: hdc 30, ch 2, turn
R5: hdc 30, switch to beige yarn, ch 2, turn
R6: hdc 30, switch to light brown yarn, ch 2, turn
R7: hdc 30, ch 2, turn
R8: hdc 30, switch to beige yarn, ch 2, turn
R9: hdc 30, switch to cream yarn, ch 2, turn
R10: hdc 30, ch 2, turn
R11: hdc 30, ch 2, turn
R12: hdc 30, switch to gray yarn, ch 1, turn
R13: sc 1, now insert your hook in between the 2 sc sts below the row we’re currently on and make a sc, we will alternate between doing 1 sc and 1 sc over the bottom st for this entire row ending on a sc st. Be careful to count your sts as you go to be sure you end up with 30 sts at the end of the row. It’s easy to lose a st during this row. Ch 2, turn

Continuing on
R14: hdc 30, ch 2, turn
R15: hdc 30, ch 2, turn
R16: hdc 30, switch to cream yarn, ch 1, turn
R17: Repeat R13, ch 2, turn
R18: hdc 30, ch 2, turn
R19: hdc 30, ch 2, turn
R20: hdc 30, switch to beige yarn, ch 2, turn
R21: hdc 30, switch to light brown yarn, ch 2, turn
R22: hdc 30, ch 2, turn
R23: hdc 30, switch to beige yarn, ch 2, turn
R24: hdc 30, switch to cream yarn, ch 2, turn
R25: hdc 30, ch 2, turn
R26: hdc 30, ch 2, turn
R27: hdc 30, switch to dark green yarn, ch 2, turn
R28-29: hdc 30, ch 2, turn (rep 2 times – 2 rows total)
Finish off. Weave in all ends so they don’t unravel.

Adding the Fringe
Take some dark green yarn and add fringe all along the two short ends of the blanket. One fringe on each st, so you’ll need 60 pieces of green yarn. Trim to your liking. Watch this video to see how to add the fringe to the blanket.
Congratulations !!!

More Amigurumi Llama Ideas:

Materials:
• Worsted weight (#4) yarn in llama color and two rug colors (R1) and (R2)
• G/4.0mm Odyssey Hook
• Scrap bulky yarn for eyes and nose
• Stuffing
• Yarn needle or tapestry needle
• Scissors
• Wooden dowel to assist with stuffing

Abbreviations:
Ch = chain
Sc = single crochet
Sc dec = single crochet decrease
Slp st = slip stitch

Amigurumi Sweety Llama Free Pattern:

Head
Ch 3
2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4 sc in last ch, turn your work so you’re working along the bottom of the ch, 2 sc in same sc as first 2 sc (8)
2 sc in each sc around (16)
 3-5.  Sc in each sc around (16)
Sc in 1st 6 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc* rep *-* 3x, sc in last 4 sc (19)
Sc in 1st 3 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* 5x, sc in last sc (24)
Sc in 1st 3 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* 7x (31)
 9-14.  Sc in each sc around (31)
*Sc dec, sc in next 3 sc* rep *-* 6x, sc in last sc (25)
*sc dec, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* 6x, sc in last sc (19)
STUFF The Head Firmly
*sc dec, sc in next sc* rep *-* 6x, sc in last sc (13)
Sc dec around
FO and use tail end to close up any remaining hole, weave in end.

Neck
Starting with a long tail for assembly, ch 21, join with a slip st to form a ring, be careful not to twist stitches
Sc in each sc around (20)
*Sc dec, sc in next 8 sc* rep *-* 2x (18)
Sc in each sc around (18)
Sc dec, sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in last 8 sc (18)
Sc in each sc around (18)
Sc in 1st 7 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc* rep *-* 2x, sc in last 3 sc (20)
Sc in each sc around (20)
Sc in 1st 8 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc* rep *-* 2x, sc in last 2 sc (22)
Sc in each sc around (22)
Sc in 1st 9 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc* rep *-* 2x, sc in last 3 sc (24)
11-12.  Sc in each sc around (24)
*2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 3 sc* rep *-* around (30)
Sc in each sc around (30)
FO leaving a long tail for assembly. Sew the chain edge of the neck onto the bottom of the head between rounds 8 – 16 of the head. The tallest point (where the chain was joined to form a ring) of the neck should be right at the back of the head when you sew it on, and the oval formed by the first round of the head should be more or less vertical. It helps me to pin the neck in place before sewing so I can make adjustments before committing.

Ears (make 2)
Ch 2 or magic loop
4 sc in 2nd ch from hook / loop (4)
*2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next sc* rep *-* around (6)
*2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* around (8)
Sc in each sc around (8)
*2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 3 sc* rep *-* around (10)
*2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 4 sc* rep *-* around (12)
7-8.  Sc in each sc around (12)
*sc dec, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* around (9)
FO leaving a long tail for assembly. Flatten the ears, you’ll be sewing through both layers at once. Using the FO ends, sew the ears at about round 14-15 on either side of the head. I sewed the ears on so they laid more flat or relaxed to the head, but you can sew them so they’re perked up as well. Weave in the ends.

Body
Ch 3
2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4 sc in last ch, turning your work so you’re working along the bottom of the ch, 2 sc in same sc as first 2 sc (8)
2 sc in each sc around (16)
*2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next sc* rep *-* around (24)
*2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* around (32)
*2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 3 sc* rep *-* around (40)
6-14.  Sc in each sc around (40)
Sc in 1st 16 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc* rep *-* 3x, sc in last 9 sc (43)
16-24. Sc in each sc around (43)
*sc dec, sc in next 6 sc* rep *-* 5x, sc dec, sc in last 2 sc (37)
Sc in 1st 3 sc, *sc dec, sc in next 5 sc* rep *-* 4x, sc dec, sc in last 4 sc (32)
*sc dec, sc in next 4 sc* rep *-* 5x, sc dec (26)
Sc in 1st 3 sc, *sc dec, sc in next 3 sc* rep *-* 4x, sc dec, sc in last sc (21)
STUFF the llama body firmly
Sc in 1st sc, *sc dec, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* around (16)
*sc dec, sc in next sc* rep *-* 5x, sc in last sc (11)
STUFF again if needed
Sc dec around
FO, use end to close up any remaining hole, weave in ends.
Using 3 sewing pins, mark where the increases from round 15 are. Use these as your centering marks.
Stuff the neck up by the head and sew the bottom of the neck to the llama body. I sew the neck on to span across rounds 4-14 of the body. It helps me to pin the neck in place before sewing so I can make adjustments before committing, to prevent a turned or crooked head posture. Before you finish sewing the neck to the body, make sure it’s stuffed all the way, not just up by the head. Weave in the ends.

Arms (make 2)
Ch 3
2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4 sc in last ch, turning your work so you’re working along the bottom of the ch, 2 sc in same sc as first 2 sc (8)
*2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next sc* rep *-* around (12)
*2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* around (16)
Sc in 1st 7 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc* rep *-* 3x, sc in last 3 sc (19)
Sc in 1st 15 sc
FO leaving the last 4 sc unworked. Leave a long tail for assembly.
Pin both front “legs” onto the front of the body so that when you set the llama on a level surface, the legs touch the surface and stabilize the body. The oval created by round 1 of the legs should be relatively horizontal. Before you finish sewing the legs in place, make sure to stuff them firmly.

Legs (make 2)
Ch 3
2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4 sc in last ch, turning your work so you’re working along the bottom of the ch, 2 sc in same sc as first 2 sc (8)
*2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next sc* rep *-* around (12)
*2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* around (16)
Sc in 1st 7 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc* rep *-* 3x
FO, leaving the last 3 sc unworked. Leave a long tail for assembly.
Pin both back “legs” onto the back of the body (just past round 16) so that when you set the llama on a level surface, the back legs touch the surface. The oval created by round 1 of the legs should be relatively horizontal. Before you finish sewing the legs in place, make sure to stuff them firmly.

Tail
Ch 2 or magic loop
6 sc in 2nd ch from hook / loop (6)
*2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next sc* rep *-* around (9)
*2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* around (12)
4-6.  Sc in each sc around (12)
*sc dec, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* around (9)
FO, leaving a long tail for assembly.
Flatten the tail and sew through both layers at once. Sew the tail to the middle back end of the llama body. You may also need to tack the middle of the bottom of the tail to the body so it doesn’t lift. Weave in the ends.

Rug
With R1, ch 5
2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, 3 sc in last ch, turning your work so you’re working along the bottom side of the chain, sc in next 2 ch, sc in same ch as first 2 ch (10)
Change color to R2
*3 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* 2x (16)
*2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* 5x, sc in last sc (21)
Change color back to R1
*2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* around (28)
*2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 3 sc* rep *-* around (35)
Change color back to R2
*ch 1, slp st in next st* rep *-* around (to create a decorative edge)
FO and use the end to tack the rug to the llama’s back. I only tacked it down in four places, you don’t have to sew it down, you just want to keep it in place. Weave in the ends.

Final Touches
Using your scrap bulky yarn, embroider closed eyes and a nose to the head and muzzle of the llama. Weave in the ends.

More Amigurumi Llama Ideas:

Abbreviations
R: row
ch: chain
st: stitch
mr: magic ring
sc: single crochet
inc: increase (2 sc in the next st)
dec: decrease
hdc: half double crochet
dc: double crochet
ss: slip stitch
( )*6 :  Repeat whatever is between the brackets the number of times stated

Amigurumi Plush Llama Free Pattern

Legs (make two)
R1) Magic ring into 5 sc (5)
R2) 5 inc (10)
R3) (sc, inc)*5 (15)
R4-8) sc in each st around (15)
R9) FLO, 15 sc (15)
R10) (2 sc, inc)*5 (20)
R11) (9 sc, inc)*2 (22)
R12-14) sc in each st around (22)

Body
R15) 22 sc on the first leg, place the marker, 22 sc on the second leg, 8 ch  (30)
R16) 22 sc on the first leg, 8 sc on the chains, 22 sc on the second leg, 8 sc on the chains (60)
R17-35) sc in each st around (60) (19 rnds)
R36) (9 sc, dec)*2, 38 sc (58)
R37) (2 sc, dec)*5, 38 sc (53)
R38) (sc, dec)*5, 38 sc (48)
R39) 5 dec, 38 sc (43)
R40) dec, sc, dec, 38 sc (41)
Leave 25 cm tail for sewing.

Neck and Head
Reserve 25 sc at the other end of the body.
R41) 3 ch, 2 hdc, 2 dc, 15 sc, 2 dc, 3 dc ,ss (25)
R42-65) sc in each st around (25) (24 rnds)
R66) (3 sc, dec)*5 (20)
R67) sc in each st around (20)
R68) (2 sc, dec)*5 (15)
R69) (sc, dec)*5 (10)
R70) 5 dec (5)

Muzzle
R1) Magic ring into 5 sc (5)
R2) 5 inc (10)
R3) (sc, inc)*5 (15)
R4) (2 sc, inc)*5 (20)
R5-8) sc in each st around (20)
Leave 30 cm tail for sewing.

Saddlebag
Start with green color
R1) 21 ch, starting from the 2nd ch : inc, 18 sc, 3 sc in the next ch, 18 sc,  sc to the first ch (42), ss
Continue with white color
R2) 2 inc, 18 sc, 3 inc, 18 sc, inc (48), ss
Continue with pink color
R3) (sc, inc)*2, 18 sc, (sc, inc)*3, 19 sc, inc (54), ss
Leave 40 cm tail for connect.

Tail
R1) Magic ring into 6 sc (6)
R2-4) sc in each st around (6)
R5) 3 dec (3)
Leave 15 cm tail for sewing.

Ears (make two)
R1) 6 ch, starting from the 2nd ch : inc, 3 sc, 3 sc in the next ch, 3 sc,  sc to the first ch (12)
R2) 2 inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 23 sc, inc (18)
R3) sc in each st around (18)
Leave 15 cm tail for sewing.

More Amigurumi Llama Ideas:

Supplies
G (4.25 mm) hook
Red Heart Super Saver (or similar worsted weight); 1 skein, 364 yds/7 oz/198 g, Turqua
2- 15 mm solid black safety eyes
Poly-fil
Yarn Needle
Stitch marker
Hair brush
Measurements
14 inches tall x 10 inches long

Pattern Notes
Work in continuous rounds. Do not slip stitch to join unless instructed otherwise.
Recommended: Do not weave in ends until all pieces are attached. This allows you to reposition pieces if necessary.
Pattern Stitches
Loop Stitch (Loop-st): Insert hook through st, loop yarn back to front over 2 fingers, slide hook over nearside of loop, grab far side of loop and pull through st, yo, pull through both loops on hook, remove fingers from loop.
Loop Stitch Video Tutorial HERE.
Single Crochet join (sc join): Place slip knot on hook, insert hook into desired st, yo, pull through, yo and draw through both loops on hook.

Amigurumi Groovy Llama Free Pattern

Head
Ch 2.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in second ch from hook. (6)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12)
Rnd 3: Sc evenly around. (12)
Rnd 4: [sc, inc] 6 times. (18)
Rnd 5: Sc evenly around. (18)
Rnd 6: [2 sc, inc] 6 times. (24)
Rnd 7: Sc evenly around. (24)
Rnd 8: [3 sc, inc] 6 times. (30)
Rnd 9-13: Sc evenly around. (30)
Rnd 14: [3 sc, dec] 6 times. (24)
Rnd 15-16: Sc evenly around. (24)
Rnd 17: [inc, 7 sc] 3 times. (27)
Rnd 18: [inc, 8 sc] 3 times. (30)
Rnd 19: [inc, 9 sc] 3 times. (33)
Rnd 20: [inc, 10 sc] 3 times. (36)
Rnd 21-24: Sc evenly around. (36)
Insert safety eyes in two increases between Rounds 19 and 20.
Start stuffing.
Rnd 25: [4 sc, dec] 6 times. (30)
Rnd 26: [3 sc, dec] 6 times. (24)
Rnd 27: [2 sc, dec] 6 times. (18)
Rnd 28: [sc, dec] 6 times. (12)
Finish stuffing.
Rnd 29: 6 dec. (6)
Bind off. Thread tail through back loops of remaining 6 stitches. Pull tight to close. Leave long tail for sewing.

Nose
Ch 2, leaving long tail for sewing at beginning.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in second ch from hook. (6)
Rnd 2: [sc, 2 inc] twice. (10)
Rnd 3: [3 sc, 2 inc] twice. (14)
Rnd 4: [5 sc, 2 inc] twice. (18)
Rnd 5: [7 sc, 2 inc] twice. (22)
Rnd 6-7: Sc evenly around.
Bind off, leaving long tail for sewing.
Press flat with into a wide triangle, increase on each edge. Using needle, working through both stitches of last round (11 sts), sew to head at Round 10, lined up between eyes. Use starting tail to sew tip of triangle to Round 3 of head and sew straight line down across end of nose. Weave in ends.

Ears
(Make 2)
Ch 2.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in second ch from hook. (6)
Rnd 2: Sc evenly around. (6)
Rnd 3: 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc. (8)
Rnd 4: Sc evenly around. (8)
Rnd 5: 3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc. (10)
Rnd 6: Sc evenly around. (10)
Rnd 7: 4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc. (12)
Rnd 8: Sc evenly around. (12)
Rnd 9: 5 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc. (14)
Rnd 10-13: Sc evenly around. (14)
Rnd 14: 5 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec. (12)
Rnd 15: Sc evenly around. (12)
Rnd 16: 4 sc, dec, 4 dc, dec. (10)
Rnd 17: Sc evenly around. (10)
Bind off and leave long tail for sewing.
Flatten ears with increases/decreases on the edges. Pinch last round together so edges meet and use tail to sew together. (This will fold the ear slightly.) Attach to head, making sure bottom of ears are three rows below the top of the head, so the ears stand straight up from the back of the head. Sew in line with eyes. Weave in ends.
Eyebrows
Ch 4.
Row 1. 5 dc in 4th ch from hook.
Bind off and attach arch-side up over safety eyes.

Neck and Front Legs
Ch 2.
Rnd 1: (RS) 6 sc in second ch from hook. (6)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12)
Rnd 3: [sc, inc] 6 times. (18)
Rnd 4: [2 sc, inc] 6 times. (24)
Rnd 5: (FLO) Sc evenly around. (24) This will create a 90 degree angle, RS facing inward, WS facing outward.
Rnd 6: Loop-st evenly around. (24)
Rnd 7-8: Sc evenly around. (24)
Rnd 9: Loop-st evenly around.
Rnd 10-11: Sc evenly around.
Rnd 12: Loop-st evenly around.
Rnd 13-14: Sc evenly around.
Rnd 15: Loop-st evenly around.
Rnd 16: [3 sc, inc] 6 times. (30)
Rnd 17: Sc evenly around.
Rnd 18: 15 loop-st, 15 sc. (30)
Rnd 19: [4 sc, inc] 6 times. (36)
Rnd 20: Sc evenly around.
Rnd 21: 4 sc, 10 loop-st, 22 sc. (36)
Rnd 22: [5 sc, inc] 6 times. (42)
Rnd 23: Sc evenly around.
Rnd 24: 7 sc, 7 loop-st, 28 sc. (42)
Rnd 25-26: Sc evenly around.
Rnd 27: Sc 10, ch 3, skip 21, sl st. Turn. (You will now change direction and be working with the RS facing outward. This is now the first stitch of each remaining row.)
Rnd 28: Working clockwise, 21 sc, sc in each of the three chs. (24)
Rnd 29-30: Sc evenly around.
Rnd 31: [6 sc, dec] 3 times. (21)
Rnd 32-33: Sc evenly around.
Rnd 24: [5 sc, dec] 3 times. (18)
Rnd 25-26: Sc evenly around.
Rnd 27: [4 sc, dec] 3 times. (15)
Rnd 28-29: Sc evenly around.
Rnd 30: [3 sc, dec] 3 times. (12)
Rnd 31-32: Sc evenly around.
Rnd 33: 6 dec. (6)
Bind off. Thread needle through back loops of remaining 6 stitches. Pull tight to close. Weave in ends.
Stuff neck and leg firmly.

Next Leg
Rnd 1: Work clockwise, RS facing out. Sc Join(see Pattern Stitches) in first stitch left of the ch-3, 20 sc, sc in back side of each of 3 chs. (24)
Rnd 2-3: Sc evenly around.
Rnd 4: [6 sc, dec] 3 times. (21)
Rnd 5-6: Sc evenly around.
Rnd 7: [5 sc, dec] 3 times. (18)
Rnd 8-9: Sc evenly around.
Rnd 10: [4 sc, dec] 3 times. (15)
Rnd 11-12: Sc evenly around.
Rnd 13: [3 sc, dec] 3 times. (12)
Rnd 14-15: Sc evenly around.
Stuff remaining leg.
Rnd 16: 6 dec. (6)
Bind off. Thread needle through back loops of remaining 6 stitches. Pull tight to close. Weave in ends.

Hind End and Legs
Ch 2.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in second ch from hook. (6)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12)
Rnd 3: [sc, inc] 6 times. (18)
Rnd 4: [2 sc, inc] 6 times. (24)
Rnd 5: [3 sc, inc] 6 times. (30)
Rnd 6: [4 sc, inc] 6 times. (36)
Rnd 7: [5 sc, inc] 6 times. (42)
Rnd 8-13: Sc evenly around. (42)
Rnd 14: (Begin first leg.) 21 sc, ch 9, skip 21, sl st in first st to join. Leave skipped sts unworked.
Rnd 15: Sc in same st, 20 sc, sc in each of 9 chs. (30)
Rnd 16: Sc evenly around.
Rnd 17: [8 sc, dec] 3 times. (27)
Rnd 18: Sc evenly around.
Rnd 19: [7 sc, dec] 3 times. (24)
Rnd 20: Sc evenly around.
Rnd 21: [6 sc, dec] 3 times. (21)
Rnd 22: Sc evenly around.
Rnd 23: [5 sc, dec] 3 times. (18)
Rnd 24: Sc evenly around.
Rnd 25: [4 sc, dec] 3 times. (15)
Rnd 26: Sc evenly around.
Rnd 27: [3 sc, dec] 3 times. (12)
Rnd 28-29: Sc evenly around.
Rnd 30: 6 dec. (6)
Bind off. Thread needle through back loops of remaining 6 stitches. Pull tight to close. Weave in ends.
Stuff leg.

Next Hind Leg
Rnd 1: Sc join in first st to left of ch-9. Sc 20, sc in back side of each of 9 chs. Sl st in first st to join. (30)
Rnd 2: Sc in same st, 29 sc. (30)
Rnd 3: Sc evenly around.
Rnd 4: [8 sc, dec] 3 times. (27)
Rnd 5: Sc evenly around.
Rnd 6: [7 sc, dec] 3 times. (24)
Rnd 7: Sc evenly around.
Rnd 8: [6 sc, dec] 3 times. (21)
Rnd 9: Sc evenly around.
Rnd 10: [5 sc, dec] 3 times. (18)
Rnd 11: Sc evenly around.
Rnd 12: [4 sc, dec] 3 times. (15)
Rnd 13: Sc evenly around.
Stuff hind end and start stuffing remaining leg.
Rnd 14: [3 sc, dec] 3 times. (12)
Rnd 15-16: Sc evenly around.
Finish stuffing.
Rnd 17: 6 dec. (6)
Bind off. Thread needle through back loops of remaining 6 stitches. Pull tight to close. Weave in ends.

Belly
Ch 2.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in second ch from hook. (6)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12)
Rnd 3: [sc, inc] 6 times. (18)
Rnd 4: [2 sc, inc] 6 times. (24)
Rnd 5: [3 sc, inc] 6 times. (30)
Rnd 6: [4 sc, inc] 6 times. (36)
Rnd 7: (BLO) Sc evenly around.
Rnd 8-17: (Both loops) Sc evenly around.
Bind off, leaving long tail for sewing.
Sew flat end to shoulders, opposite chest fur. Begin stuffing. Sew open end to hind legs. Finish stuffing firmly before belly is attached completely.

Hooves
Here is a video tutorial for how to make the feet. They can seem rather tricky, but once you see it done, it will make more sense.

First Toes
(Make 4)
Ch 2.
Rnd 1: 4 sc in second ch from hook. (4)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (8)
Rnd 3: [3 sc, inc] twice. (10)
Rnd 4: [4 sc, inc] twice. (12)
Rnd 5: Sc evenly around.
Bind off.

Second Toes/Hoof
(Make 4)
Ch 2.
Rnd 1: 4 sc in second ch from hook. (4)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (8)
Rnd 3: [3 sc, inc] twice. (10)
Rnd 4: [4 sc, inc] twice. (12)
Rnd 5: Sc evenly around.
Rnd 6: 12 sc, sl st in 1st toe, 11 sc around 1st toe, sc in same st as sl st, sl st in 1st st of 2nd toe. Now working around both toes. (24)
Rnd 7: sc evenly around.
Rnd 8: [2 sc, dec] 6 times. (18)
Rnd 9: Sc evenly around.
Rnd 10: [sc, dec] 6 times. (12)
Stuff.
Rnd 11: 6 dec. (6)
Bind off. Thread needle through remaining 6 stitches. Pull tight to close. Weave in ends.
Sew to bottoms of legs, toes facing forward.

Tail
Ch 2.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in second ch from hook. (6)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12)
Rnd 3: 6 loop-st, 6 sc. (12)
Rnd 4: [5 sc, inc] twice. (14)
Rnd 5: Sc evenly around.
Rnd 6: 7 loop-st, 7 sc. (14)
Rnd 7: [6 sc, inc] twice. (16)
Rnd 8: Sc evenly around.
Rnd 9: 8 loop-st, 8 sc. (16)
Rnd 10: [2 sc, dec] 4 times. (12)
Rnd 11: Sc evenly around.
Rnd 12: 6 loop-st, 6 sc. (12)
Bind off leaving long tail for sewing. Flatten with loop stitches on one side. Sewing through both layers, sew open end to back of hind end. Weave in ends.

Fur Finishing
Cut all loopsof loop stitches. Using bristle brush, Brush straight down on frayed ends. Brush in only one direction. Brush until fluffed as desired. Trim any stretched strands or fuzzy places.

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