This amigurumi horse holding a gift box is so cute and the pattern is free! With this crochet pattern you will get a horse toy about 14 cm (5.5″) high with a hat. The body and head of the crochet horse are made as one piece. Other parts are worked separately and sewn on afterwards.

Materials:
– Yarn: YarnArt Jeans (1⁄2 skein of main color)
– Hook size: 2.0 mm
– 8-9 mm half black beads for eyes
– Black and white sewing threads
– 7 mm beads with numbers (optional)
– Sewing and tapestry needles
– Scissors
– Sewing pins
– Stitch marker
– Fabric glue
– Fiberfill

Abbreviations (US terms):
R = row
mc = magic circle
ch = chain
st = stitch
sc = single crochet
inc = increase (2 sc in the next stitch)
dec = decrease (single crochet 2 stitches together)
F. o. = finish off
BLO = back loop only
(12) = number of stitches you should have at the end of the round/row
( )*6 = repeat whatever is between the brackets the number of times stated

Amigurumi Crochet Christmas Cute Horse Free Pattern:

Head and Body (one piece)
Stuff as you go.
With main color yarn:
Make 11 ch. Make an oval starting from the 2nd ch from hook, work on both sides of the chain.
R 1: From the 2nd ch from hook: 9 sc, 3 sc in last st, turn and crochet on the opposite side of the chain: 8 sc, inc (22)
R 2: inc, 8 sc, 3 inc, 8 sc, 2 inc (28)
R 3: 1 sc, inc, 8 sc, (1 sc, inc)*3, 8 sc, (1 sc, inc)*2 (34)
R 4: 2 sc, inc, 8 sc, (2 sc, inc)*3, 8 sc, (2 sc, inc)*2 (40)
R 5: 3 sc, inc, 8 sc, (3 sc, inc)*3, 8 sc, (3 sc, inc)*2 (46)
R 6: 4 sc, inc, 8 sc, (4 sc, inc)*3, 8 sc, (4 sc, inc)*2 (52)
R 7: 5 sc, inc, 8 sc, (5 sc, inc)*3, 8 sc, (5 sc, inc)*2 (58)
R 8: 6 sc, inc, 8 sc, (6 sc, inc)*3, 8 sc, (6 sc, inc)*2 (64)
R 9-34: 64 sc (26 rows)
R 35: 6 sc, dec, 8 sc, (6 sc, dec)*3, 8 sc, (6 sc, dec)*2 (58)
R 36: 5 sc, dec, 8 sc, (5 sc, dec)*3, 8 sc, (5 sc, dec)*2 (52)
R 37: 4 sc, dec, 8 sc, (4 sc, dec)*3, 8 sc, (4 sc, dec)*2 (46)
R 38: 3 sc, dec, 8 sc, (3 sc, dec)*3, 8 sc, (3 sc, dec)*2 (40)
R 39: 2 sc, dec, 8 sc, (2 sc, dec)*3, 8 sc, (2 sc, dec)*2 (34)
R 40: 1 sc, dec, 8 sc, (1 sc, dec)*3, 8 sc, (1 sc, dec)*2 (28)
Sew the top opening closed.
F. o.

Arms (make 2)
Start with white color yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc)*6 (12)
R 3: 12 sc
Change to main color yarn:
R 4-18: 12 sc (15 rows)
Stuff ​⅓ full.
Fold top of arm flat and 6 sc through both sides across.
F. o. and leave a long tail for sewing.

Legs (make 2)
Start with white color yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc)*6 (12)
R 3: 12 sc
Change to main color yarn:
R 4-13: 12 sc (10 rows)
Crochet additional 5 sc.
Stuff ​⅓ full.
Fold top of leg flat and 6 sc through both sides across.
F. o. and leave a long tail for sewing.

Muzzle
With beige color yarn:
Make 11 ch. Make an oval starting from the 2nd ch from hook, work on both sides of the chain.
R 1: From the 2nd ch from hook: 9 sc, 3 sc in last st, turn and crochet on the opposite side of the chain: 8 sc, inc (22)
R 2: inc, 8 sc, 3 inc, 8 sc, 2 inc (28)
R 3-6: 28 sc (4 rows)
R 7: (5 sc, dec)*4 (24)
F. o. and leave a long tail for sewing.

Ears (make 2)
With main color yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: 6 sc
R 3: (1 sc, inc)*3 (9)
R 4: (2 sc, inc)*3 (12)
R 5: (3 sc, inc)*3 (15)
R 6: (4 sc, inc)*3 (18)
R 7-9: 18 sc (3 rows)
R 10: (4 sc, dec)*3 (15)
Fold top of ear flat and 7 sc through both sides across.
F. o. and leave a long tail for sewing.

Eye Whites (make 2)
With white color yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc)*6 (12)
F. o. and leave a long tail for sewing.

Hat
Start with white color yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc)*6 (12)
R 3: (1 sc, inc)*6 (18)
R 4: 18 sc
R 5: (1 sc, dec)*6 (12)
R 6: (dec)*6 (6)
Change to green color yarn:
R 7: 6 sc
R 8: (1 sc, inc)*3 (9)
R 9: (2 sc, inc)*3 (12)
R 10: 12 sc
R 11: (3 sc, inc)*3 (15)
R 12: (4 sc, inc)*3 (18)
R 13: 18 sc
R 14: (5 sc, inc)*3 (21)
R 15: (6 sc, inc)*3 (24)
R 16: (7 sc, inc)*3 (27)
Change to white color yarn:
R 17: 27 sc
F. o. and leave a long tail for sewing.

Gift Box
Bottom part
With green color yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc)*6 (12)
R 3: (1 sc, inc)*6 (18)
R 4: (2 sc, inc)*6 (24)
R 5: (3 sc, inc)*6 (30)
R 6: BLO: 30 sc
R 7-15: 30 sc (9 rows)
F. o

Top cover
With green color yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc)*6 (12)
R 3: (1 sc, inc)*6 (18)
R 4: (2 sc, inc)*6 (24)
R 5: (3 sc, inc)*6 (30)
R 6: (4 sc, inc)*6 (36)
R 7: BLO: 36 sc
R 8: 36 sc
F. o. and leave a long tail for sewing.
Sew the top cover to the bottom part. Put some stuffing inside the box before you finish.

Flower for the gift box
With red color yarn:
Make 12 ch. From the 2nd ch from hook: inc in every stitch to the end of row (22)
Form the flower and sew it on the top of the gift box.

Using a sewing thread that matches the gift box color, sew beads with numbers on the gift box.

Assembly
1- Sew the muzzle to the head between R 15 and R 18. Add some stuffing just before closing. Embroider a smile with a black thread.
2- Sew the eye whites above the muzzle and glue plastic eyes on them. Embroider eyebrows with a white thread.
3- Sew the ears on the head between R 7 and R 8.
4- Sew the legs to the body in R 40.
5- Sew the arms on the sides of the body between R 22 and R 27 as shown in the photo. Sew the gift box to the arms.

Mane and Tail
Make mane and tail as a fringe: fold over yarn piece (take two pieces together) and use your hook to pull the loop through the stitch. Pull the yarn ends through the loop to make a knot.

Mane
Cut beige YarnArt Jeans yarn into 30 pieces, each piece is 20-25 cm (7.8-9.8″).
Attach yarn pieces (take two pieces together each time) from the 3rd row on the head to the 13th row on the back.

Tail
Cut beige YarnArt Jeans yarn into 8 pieces, each piece is approximately 10 cm (4″). Attach yarn pieces (take two pieces together each time) in R 32 on the back of the body.

Then separate YarnArt Jeans yarn into strands. Finally, sew the hat on the head.
More Amigurumi Horse Ideas:

Materials:
• We prepare hook No. 1.75 or No. 2, yarn suitable for it.
• Choose your own color scheme – Horses are different – black, white, red!
• The main thing for the tail and mane is to choose the right shade so that the combination is harmonious.
• The wire is needed in insulation, 4 mm thick – whoever knitted a blotter knows the same.
• A piece of white knitwear
• Acrylic paints or special paints for fabric.
• Oil paint shade suitable for the color of yarn, which will knit the horse itself.
• Oil paint should be darker than the main color, the color of the yarn.
• Filler, of course.

Abbreviations:
sc – single crochet
inc – increase
dec – decrease
ch – chain
sl st – slip stitch
dc – double crochet

Amigurumi Cute Little Horse Free Pattern:

Body
1: 6Sc
2: 6 times inc = 12
3: 6 times (inc, 1Sc) = 18
4: 6 times (2Sc, inc) = 24
5: 1Sc, inc, 5 times (3Sc, inc), 2Sc = 30
6: 6 times (4Sc, inc) = 36
7: 2 Sc, inc, 5 times (5Sc, inc), 3Sc = 42
8: 42Sc
9: 6 times (inc, 6Sc) = 48
10: 48Sc
11: 6 times (inc, 7Sc) = 54
12: 54Sc
13: 6 times (inc, 8Sc) = 60
14-18: 60Sc
19: 4 times (dec, 3Sc), dec, 38Sc = 55Sc
20-22: 55Sc
Align the beginning of the row relative to the beginning of the second row of knitting – move forward, knitting the necessary amount of Sc.
This number is determined visually, the total number of loops during this maneuver does not change.
23: 5 times (dec, 3Sc), 30Sc = 50
24-26: 50Sc
27:Attention!
This row should start from the beginning of dec in the previous rows. Therefore, we again move the beginning of knitting.
Again, this is determined using an eye.
5 times (dec, 4Sc), 5 Sc = 45
28:45 Sc
29: 5 times (dec, 7x) = 40
30:40 Sc
Bite off a wire about 20-21 cm long.
We bend it with an arc.
We determine the place of growth of the hind legs.
To do this, we first determine where the horse has a back, where the tummy – the back is slightly bent, the tummy, on the contrary, is convex.
Then you need to determine the middle of the back and abdomen, so that the legs are in the lower part of the body, and not somewhere on the side.
The center can be marked with a marker – a contrasting thread, for example:

We make the holes for the legs, expanding the gap between the Sc hook or knitting needle. The holes should be very small – on the diameter of the wire.
You need to arrange them between 12 and 13 rows.
Between them should be about 18 Sc, if you count on the 13th row.
31: 5 times (dec, 6Sc) = 35
32: 35Sc
Fill the back part of the body, distributing evenly the filler around the frame.
The frame itself, or rather the upper part, should be at a distance of 1 cm from the knitted fabric.
Bend the second wire for the front legs.
We also verify the rasl-stoyaniye and make holes for the frame, we place them between 26 and 27 rows.

Seen from the side, the front and rear legs should be practically in line.
The edge of the arc of the frame should rest against a knitted fabric.
Fill the space around the frame of the front legs with filler, ramming it well.
33: 6 times (dec, 5Sc) = 30
34: 6 times (dec, 3Sc) = 24
Fill the rest of the body
35: 6 times (dec, 2Sc) = 18
36: 6 times (dec, 1Sc) = 12
37: 6 dec = 6
Tighten the hole, before that add some more filler if necessary.
At the ends of the wire, we twist small loops and bend them in the shape of the foot.
As a result, at this stage the length of the legs should be about 5cm.
Getting to the hooves.

Hooves
1: 6Sc
2: 6 times inc = 12
3: 6 times (inc, 1Sc) = 18
4: 6 times (2Sc, inc) = 24
5: 24Sc behind the back of the pigtails
6: 24Sc
7: 6 times (2Sc, dec) = 18
8: 6 times (dec, 1Sc) = 12
Instead of the last Sc, we knit Sl-st, in which we change the color of the hoof to the main color of the horse.
9: 6 dec
Moreover, after the first reduction, cut off the thread that knitted the hoof and tie this tip together with the tip of a thread of a new color tightly to two knots.
After two or three dec of the 9th row, insert the frame and fill the hoof, distributing the filler evenly around the frame.
After finishing the row, fasten and cut the thread, leaving a long tip for the subsequent wrapping of the legs.
Push the tip of the thread into the needle and tighten the part around the frame.
Wrap the wire with double-sided tape.
Who does not have scotch tape, try using Moment – Crystal glue.
Try to apply with a thin, thin layer.
Wrap the wire with thread.
We fix the thread by threading it with a needle several times through the body. Cut the thread slightly pulling – the tip will sink forever in the filled part.
Repeat with the rest of the legs.

Head and Neck
1: 6Sc
2: 6 times inc = 12
3: 6 times (inc, 1Sc) = 18
4: 6 times (2Sc, inc) = 24
5: 1Sc, inc, 5 times (3Sc, inc), 2sc = 30
6-8: 30Sc
Align the knitting to the start of the second row.
9: 2 times (inc, 6Sc), inc, 15Sc = 33 The increments in this row fall on the part of the part on which we will knit the neck.
10: 33Sc
We start to knit a muzzle
11: A chain of 10Ch – a jumper, stick the hook into the 19th loop in a circle, 15Sc, reaching the chain, 10Sc (1Sc in each loop of the chain, behind the back wall of the pigtail) = 25
12: 25Sc
13: Dec, 11Sc, dec, 10Sc = 23
14: Dec, 9Sc, dec, 10Sc = 21
15-17: 21Sc
18: 10 times inc, 11Sc = 31
19-24: 31
25: 5 times (dec, 4Sc), 1Sc = 25
26: 5 times (dec, 3Sc), 1Sc = 19
27: 5 times (dec, 2Sc), 1Sc = 13
28: 5 times (dec, 1Sc), 1Sc = 7
29: 5 dec.
Fasten the thread, cut it, tighten the hole.
Fill the face.

Neck
From the main part, we have 18 loops + 10 loops in the chain = 28 loops.
On these loops we will knit the neck.
We attach the thread to 10mu Sc of 18 – this will be the beginning of the row.
Knit in a spiral.
1: 1Ch lift, 1Sc in the same loop from which Ch was raised – this is one element, the first Sc in a row, 7Sc, dec (one of the decrease tables falls on the part of the head, the second on the column that is tied to the jumper), 8Sc, dec (in the same way as the first), 8Sc = 26
2: 8Sc, dec (one column in the decrease of the previous row, the second on the jumper column), 6Sc, dec, 8Sc = 24
3: 8Sc, dec, 4Sc, dec, 8Sc = 22
4: 8Sc, dec, 2Sc, dec, 8Sc = 20
5-10: 20
11: 2 times (1Sc, inc), 12Sc, 2 times (inc, 1Sc) = 24
12-15: 24Sc
16: 2 times (2Sc, inc), 2Sc, 2Hdc (half crochet), 4Dc (double crochet), 2Hdc, 2Sc, 2 times (inc, 2Sc) = 28
17: 7Sl-st, 3Sc, 2Hdc, 4Dc, 2Hdc, 3Sc, 7Sl-st = 28
Fasten and cut the thread, leaving a long tip for subsequent sewing of the part to the body.
We pin the head to the body with pins, so that the extreme point of the neck under the head touches the last strained row of the body.
Sew on the details — one short stitch behind the body, one behind the wall of the pigtail closest to us, a seam is laid by analogy with the lacing, tightening each stitch well.

Ears
Chain 8Ch + 1Ch lift
1: 7Sc, 3Sc in the last loop of the chain, 7Sc. Knitting in a circle do not close, turn.
2: 1Ch, into the same loop from which you just raised Ch to knit 1Sc, 4Hdc, 5Sc. Turn.
3: 1Ch + 1Sc in the same loop, 8Sc, 2Sc in the next loop.
Fasten the thread, cut it off, leaving a long tip, insert it into the needle and pull it on the wrong side to the base of the eyelet.
Fold the eyelet in half lengthwise and grab both sides together for 0.5 cm from the base with a few stitches.
Fix, cut, thread the tip of the thread into the needle, carefully thread to the base and sew the ear to the part of the head, pre-pins with pins.

Tail
1: Into Amigurumi Ring 8Sc
2-7: 8Sc
We cut the yarn into pieces of about 16-17 cm.
It will be convenient if you choose some suitable template for the size.
This time, this was my notebook.
The yarn is wound around this pattern, then cut at one point – we get pieces of threads of the same length.
And on the tail and on the mane, segments of the same length are needed, so we cook everything at once.
Using a hook (you can take one size smaller than the one used to knit), the yarn clings to the tail, according to the fringe principle.
The photo shows the direction of introduction of the hook into the fabric and the direction of the thread, which we thread relative to the hook and part.
Sew the finished tail to the body between 11 and 13 near the beginning of knitting.

Mane
From the ears to the withers, we outline the growth line of the mane.
If you have dark yarn, you can use a remnant, if you have light yarn, use a simple pencil or gel pen, for example (in the second case, don’t really bother).
The line will be closed with yarn, but try to draw it anyway carefully.
Attach the mane.
Again, pay attention in which direction we introduce the hook, catching the thread so that the growth line is neat.
Tighten each attached thread well.
Having finished with the mane, we begin to build up the bangs.
To do this, we also outline the area of the bangs with a contrast line.
Starting from the ears, attach several threads, sticking the hook in the same direction as stuck for the mane – direct these strands behind the ears.
The following rows begin to build up towards the muzzle, respectively, stick the hook in the opposite direction. Threads need to be attached to each column and row so that there are no bald spots.
This is what should result in the end.
Now all this lush vegetation needs to be trimmed. Leave the bangs to about the middle of the muzzle.
To trim the mane, turn the horse upside down and trim the mane so that all threads are the same length.
It is desirable that the mane lowered to the side does not cover the beginning of the growth of the front leg.
Tail trim too.
So that the bangs do not stick out, it can be slightly moistened and tied with a thread until it dries.
You can do this later, after the eyes are sewn.

Eyes
For the eyes, we need to cut a circle with a diameter of 3.5 cm from a piece of white knitwear.
Stitch over the edge with a seam over this circle.
Before finally tightening the circle, fill it, slightly flattening, and fix the thread.
We do not cut the thread.
Drag the ball in the center in two turns, fix the thread.
Then we take the black bobbin thread and also with two turns we separate the eyes.
We sew the eyes with white reel of thread to the muzzle, having previously fixed them with a pin.
On the sewn-in eyes, gently draw the pupils with black acrylic paint, set the glare to white paint.
I use a toothpick for this. We also draw nostrils in black.
Paints, by the way, are better suited for acrylic fabrics.
Although the usual can also be used.

Smile
Embroider a smile with a thin black thread.
I have a thin woolen thread for embroidery. A smile is one stitch that is well stretched in an arched shape.
At the edges of the smile – short stitches for greater expressiveness.

Tinted
Now we proceed to tinting the horse, so that it becomes more interesting and effective here.
We take oil paints.
It is advisable to take a color darker on the color of the yarn. At first I thought that black might come in handy, but then I settled on Koput-Mortum dark.
He’s like some kind of brown-burgundy.
Squeeze a little paint on a napkin or paper towel to read excess oil.
Then with a stiff brush, you just need the bristles, take quite a bit of paint and start making strokes on paper until these strokes become barely noticeable.
Now we begin to apply tone to our Swell.
It is advisable to highlight the back, croup, the beginning of the growth of the legs and the legs themselves – the outer part.
Shade a little face and cheekbones – be careful not to touch the white eyes.
Now our Swell is ready.

More Amigurumi Horse Ideas:

Materials
• Any yarn (light for a horse, dark for saddle);
• Crochet hook (I have 1.75);
• Filling;
• Aluminum wire (or any other wire);
• Beads for eyes;
• Sewing needle;
• Slicker;
• Pastels for tinting;
• Brushes.

Abbreviations
SC – single crochet;
W – widening;
N – narrowing;
3 SCs together – 3 SCs under one top;
SS – slipped stitch;
HC – half crochet;
CS – chain stitch;
C – crochet;
4 SCs together – 4 single crochets crocheted together (under one top)
DC – double crochet.

Amigurumi White Horse Free Pattern

Head
Crochet with light yarn (in my case, it is beige).
1) 2 CSs in the second from the crochet hook C
2) (W) 6 times (12)
3) (1 SC, W) 6 times (18)
4) (2 SCs, W) 6 times (24)
5) (3 SCs, W) 6 times (30)
6) (4 SCs, W) 6 times (36)
7) 5 SCs, W, 2 SCs, W , 3 SCs, W, 4 SCs, W, 3 SCs, W, 4 SCs, W, 6 SCs, W, 2 SCs (43)

8) 4 SCs, W, 3 SCs, W, 3 SCs, W, 4 SCs , W, 5 SCs, W, 4 SCs, W, 5 SCs, W, 7 SCs, W (51)
9) 3 SCs, W, 4 SCs, W, 5 SCs, W, 4 SCs, W, 7 SCs, W, 8 SCs, W, 3 SCs, W, 8 SCs (58)
10) Skip 28 SCs, in 29th C crochet SC
Crochet the head.1) 29 SCs
2) 26 SCs (3 HCs in 1 C) 2 times (32)
3) 5 SCs, N, 5 SCs, (N) 2 times, 5 SCs, N, 9 SCs (28)
4) 9 SCs , (N) 2 times, 11 SCs, W, 3 SCs (27)
5) 27 SCs
6) 3 SCs, N, 10 SCs, N, 6 SCs, W, 3 SCs (26)
7) 17 SCs, N, 7 SCs (25)
8) 6 SCs, N, 5 SCs, N, 7 SCs, W (24)
9) 20 SCs, (N) 2 times (22)
10) 9 SCs, N , 7 SCs, (N, SC) 2 times (19)
11) 6 SCs, N, SC, N, 5 SCs, (N) 2 times (15)
12) 15 SCs
13) 3 SCs, N, 9 SCs ( 14)
14) 12 SCs, 3 HC in 1 C, W, HC, 1 SC, N, 1 SC, HC, HC, W, HC, HC, HC, 2 SCs, 6 SCs (17)
15-16) 17 SCs
Fill.
17) (N, SC) 5 times, N
Complete.

Neck
Connect the thread from side (DO NOT FOLLOW THE MARKER).
1) 14 SCs, W, 15 SCs (30)
2) 30 SCs
3) 30 SCs
4) 13 SCs, W, 16 SCs (31)
5) 15 SCs, W, 17 SCs (32)
6) 14 SCs, W , 17 SCs (33)
7) 14 SCs, W, 18 SCs (34)
8) 34 SCs
9) 13 SCs, W, 3 SCs, W, 17 SCs (36)
10) 15 SCs, W, 2 SCs, W , 17 SCs (38)
11) 38 SCs
12) 38 SCs
13) 16 SCs, W, 1 SC, W, 19 SCs (40)
14) 19 SCs, W, 20 SCs (41)
15) 41 SCs
16) W , 17 SCs, (W) 2 times, 16 SCs, W, 2 SCs, W, SC (46)
17-18) 46 SCs
Leave long end for sewing.

Front legs (make two)
Crochet with light thread (do not follow the marker).
1) 2 CSs, 6 SCs in the second C from the crochet hook (6)
2) (W) 6 times (12)
3) (1 SC, W) 6 times (18)
4) from the back 18 SCs
5) 18 SCs
6) 3 HCs, 3 SCs, 4 SCs together, 3 SCs, 5 HCs (15)
7) 6 SCs, N, 7 SCs (14)
8) N, 3 SCs, (N) 2 times, 3 SCs, N (10)
9) 9 SCs, (3 HCs in 1 C) 2 times (14)
10) 4 SCs, W, 9 SCs (15)
11) 4 SCs, W, 5 SCs together (12)
12) 10 SCs , N (11)
13) 4 SCs, W, 5 SCs, W (13)
14-21) 13 SCs
22) 13 SCs
23) 2 SCs, W, 2 SCs, (W) 3 times, 2 SCs, W, 2 SCs, W (19)
24) 7 SCs, (W) 2 times, 10 SCs (21)
25-26) 21 SCs
27) 5 SCs, N, (3 SCs together) 2 times, N, 5 SCs, N (14)
28) 12 SCs, N (13)
29-32) 13 SCs
33) 5 SCs, W, 7 SCs (14)
34) 14 SCs
35) 6 SCs, W, 7 SCs (15)
36) 15 SCs
Complete.

Back legs (make two)
Crochet with bright yarn (do not follow the marker).
1) 2 CSs, 6 SCs in the second C from the crochet hook (6)
2) (W) 6 times (12)
3) (1 SC, W) 6 times (18)
4) from the back 18 SCs
5) 18 SCs
6) 3 HCs, 3 SCs, 4 SCs together, 3 SCs, 5 HCs (15)
7) 6 SCs, N, 7 SCs (14)
8) N, 3 SCs, (N) 2 times, 3 SCs, N (10)
9) 9 SCs, 3 HCs in 1 C) 2 times (14)
10) 4 SCs, W, 9 SCs (15)
11) 4 SCs, W, 5 SCs, 5 together (12)
12) 10 SCs, N (11)
13) 4 SCs, W, 5 SCs, W (13)
14-24) 13 SCs
25) 5 SCs, (W) 2 times, 6 SCs (15)
26) 6 SCs, W, 6 SCs, (3 HCs in 1 C) 2 times (20)
27) 20 SCs
28) 6 SCs, W, 8 SCs, 5 HCs together (18)
29) 8 SCs, W, 8 SCs, N, 1 SC (18)
30) 7 SCs, N, 6 SCs, (N) 2 (17)
31) 6 SCs, 1 SC, W, 7 SCs, N (18)
32) 7 SCs, W, 8 SCs, N ( 18)
33) 18 SCs
34) 7 SCs, W, 8 SCs, N (18)
35) 7 SCs, W, 9 SCs (20)
36) 20 SCs
37) 4 SCs, W, 3 SCs, W, 4 SCs , W, 5 SCs, W (24)
38) 24 SCs
39) 7 SCs, W, 9 SCs, W, 6 SCs, W (27)
40) 27 SCs
Fast the last row.

Body
Crochet with light yarn.
Skip 4 SCs from the middle of the front legs, starting from the 5th C, crochet 7 SS.
32 CSs
1) From the 2nd C crochet 31 SCs, 40 SCs on back legs, 30 SCs, W on the side of the chain
2) 3 SCs, connecting front legs with 5 SCs along legs, 88 SCs, 5 SCs along legs, 3 SCs (114)
3) 114 SCs
4) W, 1 SCs, W, 2 SCs, W, 3 SCs, W, 30 SCs, W, 7 SCs, W, 14 SCs, W, 7 SCs, W, 30 SCs, W, 2 SCs, W, 3 SCs, 1 SC, W, 2 SCs (125)

5) 125 SCs
6) 5 SCs, W, 9 SCs, W, 24 SCs, W, 8 SCs, W, 8 SCs, W, 12 SCs, W, 27 SCs, 2 SCs, W, 9 SCs, W, 5 SCs (134)
7-10 ) 134 SCs
11) 64 SCs, 3 SCs together, 68 SCs (132)
12) 1 SCs, N, 3 SCs, N, 5 SCs, N, 22 SCs, N, 10 SCs, N, 12 SCs, N, 12 SCs, N, 10 SCs, N, 22 SCs, N, 5 SCs, N, 3 SCs, N, 5 SCs (121)
13) 121 SCs
14) N, 4 SCs, N, 7 SCs, N, 16 SCs, N, 7 SCs, N, 10 SCs, N, 6 SCs, N, 10 SCs, N, 7 SCs, N, 16 SCs, N, 7 SCs, N, 4 SCs, N, 3 SCs (109)
15-18 ) 109 SCs
Make the frame.
19) 12 SCs, N, 4 SCs, N, 5 SCs, N, SC, N, 3 SCs, (2 SCs, N) 4 times, (N) 3 times, (2 SCs, N) 4 times, 3 SCs , N, SC, N, 5 SCs, N, 4 SCs, N, 18 SCs (90)
20) 25 SCs, N, 2 SCs, N, 1 SC, N, (N) N 7 times, 1 SC, N , 2 SCs, N, 32 SCs (77)
21) 27 SCs, N, 1 SC, (N) 5 times, 1 SC, N, 35 SCs (70)
Fill

Ears (make two)
Crochet with light yarn.
1) 2 CSs, 6 SCs in the second C
Turn.
2) 2 SCs, (W) 2 times, 2 SCs (8)
Turn.
3) 3 SCs, (SC, HC in the same C) 2 times
Turn.
4) 4 SCs, (DC, DC, HC) in 1 C, 5 SCs
Crochet 6 SCs.
Turn, 6 SCs.
Fast the row.

Decorating
Sew up the hole and sew the head.
Sew ears to the head.
Then follow the photos

More Amigurumi Horse Ideas:

Amigurumi Book Loving Horse Free Pattern

Head-neck-trunk (this is one detail, but I’ll paint how to knit it in stages)
Head
1p.6sbn
2p.6 increases -12
3p. (Pr, 1sbn) x6 – 18
4p. (2сбн, пр) х6 -24
5р.1сбн, пр, (3сбн, пр) х5,2сбн -30
6-8p.30sbn
9p. (Pr, 6sbn) x2, pr, 15sbn – 33 Additions in this row fall on the part of the detail, on which we will continue to knit the neck.
10р.33сбн
Start knitting the horse’s face
11r.vyazhem jumper from 10v.p., hook hook in 19 loop around the circle, 15sbn, reaching the chain, 10sbn (1sbn in each loop of the chain, behind the back of the pigtail) -25
12р.25сбн
13p.ub, 11sbn, ub, 10sbn – 23
14r. уб, 9сбн, уб, 10сбн – 21
15-17r.21bn
18p10 addition, 11sbn-31
19-27r.31bn
28r. (Уб, 4сбн) х5,1сбн – 25
29p. (Ub, 3sbn) х5,1сбн – 19
30r. (уб, 2сбн) х 5,1сбн – 13
31p. (Yb, 1sbn) х5,1сбн – 7
32r.upravki.
The hole is tightened. We stuff the horse’s face with a filler.

Neck
From the main part we have 18 loops + 10ths of a chain = 28 loops. We fix the thread to 10 sb from 18 – this will be the beginning of the series.
1p.1v.p. lifting, 1sbn in the same loop, 7sb, yb (one of the tables of the loss is for the head part, the second for the column, which is tied on the bridge), 8bb, yb (do the same as the first), 8bn (26)
2р.8сбн, уб, 6сбн, уб, 8Сбн (24)
3р.8сбн, уб, 4ббн, 8ббн (22)
4p. 8 сбн, уб, 2сбн, 8сбн (20)
5-10p.20sbn
11p (1sbn, pr) x2.12sbn, (pr, 1sbn) x2 (24)
12-15р.24 сбн
At this stage, knitting the neck ends and go to knitting the torso.
Torso
1p. dial 10в.п. on the center of the neck, 9sbn in 2n from the hook, 32sbn on the neck, 9sbn along the chain vozd.petel, increase (45)
2p. (7сбн, пр) х5, 4сбн, 3сбн in 1 (53)
3p. (6sbn, pr) x7, 7sbn, 3pr (63)
4p. (9ббн, пр) х6, 5сбн, (пр, 1сбн) х3 (72)
5p. 65 сбн, (2сбн, пр) х2, 1сбн (74)
6p. (pr, 8) x7, pr, 7sbn (82)
7-10p. 82cb
11p. (уб, 8сбн) х7, уб, 7сбн (74)
12-14r. 74sbn
15r. (уб, 7сбн) х7, уб, 6сбн (63)
16r. (уб, 4сбн) х9, уб, 2сбн (53)
17r. 14sbn, (yb, 1cbn) x5, 12cb, (yb, 1cbn) x3 (45)
18р уб, 1сбн etc. up to the end of the row, fill the trunk with filler very tightly so that all the bends are leveled. Make a seam.
Nostrils (2 items)
3в.п., in the third loop from hook 6сбн – in a ring to not connect . Leave the thread to sew.

Tail
1-23 = 6p
24- to make 2ub (4)
25-31 = 4p tighten the thread
Measure out the desired piece of wire, insert it into the tail and sew it to the body, bending it, like in the photo. Brush at the end is easy:
cut 8-10 pieces of yarn about 4cm, pull the threads in the middle, and then at the top of the brush dome. Sew her tail tip.
Eyes (2 parts) – white yarn
1p – 6 sb in the ring amigurumi
2p – (pr) x 6 times = 12 sb
3p – (1сбн; пр) х 6 times = 18 сбн
4р – (2сбн; пр) х 6 times = 24 сбн
5p – 6p – 24 sbn each
7р – (2 сбн; уб) х 6 times = 18 сбн
Leave the thread to sew. Sew a half-eye, tightly fill the part, sew the remainder of the eye. Try it on, then sew on the bead pupils.
Eyelashes (2 parts)
9set, 1cc in 2p., 1sbn, 1pst, 1stsn, 1pst, 1sbn, 1ss – leave the thread for sewing

Lips
Upper = 9n – 1ss, 2sbn, 3sbn in 1p, 2sbn, 1ss
Lower = 9п-1сс, 2сбн, 3стсн in 1п, 2сбн, 1сс
Ears (2 parts)
1p. 4sbn in the ring amigurumi (4)
2p (increment, 1cb) x2 (6)
3p. (an increase, 2сбн) х2 (8)
4p. (an increase, 3сбн) х2 (10)
5p. (increase, 4bn) x2 (12)
6p. (increase, 5bn) x2 (14)
7p. (increase, 6bn) x2 (16)
8p (increase, 7bn) x2 (18)
9p. (7cb, decrease) x2 (16)
10p. (6cb, decrease) x2 (14)
11p. (5cb, decrease) x2 (12)
12p. (4cb, decrease) x2 (10)
13p. (3cb, decrease) x2 (8)
14p. (2cb, reduction) x2 (6)
15-18r. 6sbn
Leave a piece of string for sewing.

Chupchik
Make a pompom out of the desired color and sew to the head.
Hind legs (2 pieces)
1p. 5noz.p, 2sbn in 2 from the hook loop, 3bn in the next. 3в.п., 3сбн in the last loop, turn, the first loop is passed, 2сбн (10)
2p. 4bn, 4sbn in 1, 4bn, 4bn in 1, 3 sbn (16)
3p. 2sbn, 3sbn in 1, 8cb, 3cb in 1, 4sbn (20)
4-8r. 20sbn
9p. 4ббн, уб, 9сбн, уб, 4сбн (19)
10r. 13сбн, уб, 4ббн (18)
11p. 4сбн, уб, 7сбн, 3ммест, 2сбн (15)
12r. 11сбн, 3 вмест, 1сбн (13) Approximately in this row it is necessary to fill a leg with a filler, forming a flat part.
13r. 9bn, 3 together, 1sbn (10)
14р.10сбн
15r. 3ббн, уб, 3сбн, уб (8)
16-20r. 8сбн
21р.4сс, 4пссн (8)
22r. 4ss, 4pss (8)
23-30r. 8сбн
31p. 1ub.ss, 2ss, 1ub.pssn, 2pss (6)
32r. 3ss, 3pcc (6)
33-40р 6сбн (in this place it is necessary to cut off the thread of the easter color, changing it to black or brown)

Hoof
41р 6 addition (12)
42r. 5bn, 3bn in 1, 3cb in 1, 3cb, (2cb in 1) x2 (18)
43r. 3ss, 4sbn, (2cb in 1), 4sbn, 5ss (20)
44r. 4ss, 11cb, 5ss (20)
45r. 3 together, 11 сбн, behind the back wall of loop- 2sbn, * уб, 3vmeste, уб *, 2сбн, repetition from * to *, 1ss. The legs are both front and rear in our skeleton, so before pulling the hole, measure the piece of wire thicker, wrapping the ends with adhesive plaster.
Fill the hoof with a filler, pull off the loop with a hook or needle. Puncture the hoof with a needle through, pulling the lower part and giving it a flat shape.
The second leg is tied in a mirror image! Do not forget about this J
Front legs (2 pieces)
1p. 6sbn (amigurumi ring)
2p. 6 addition (12)
3p. (1сбн, пр) х6 (18)
4-8p 18sbn
9p. (1cb, yb) x6 (12)
10-12r. 12сбн Fill the foot with filler, forming a flat part.
13r. 5sbn, 3 together, 4sbn (10)
14р.10сбн
15r. 3ббн, уб, 3сбн, уб (8)
16-20r. 8сбн
21r. 4pss, 4ss (8)
22r. 4pss, 4ss (8)
23-30r 8sbn
31p. 1up.pssn, 2pssn, 1ub.ss, 2ss (6)
32r. 3pss, 3ss, (6)
33-40r 6sbn
The thread is cut off and we knit the hoof (41-45) with black or brown color without changes. Frame do the same as the hind legs.
Girls, the horse is cartoon and assumes a fixed position, as in the photo. BUT! It is possible to make it and stand up, having connected legs or foots dr.sobom if someone needs, I can paint.
Horse in other angles:

More Amigurumi Horse Ideas:

Amigurumi Small Horse Free Pattern

Head
1 row: Dial 2 VP and tie 6 PRS in the second from the Hook Loop [6].
2 row: * Raise *. Repeat * 6 times [12].
3 row: * 1 PRS, raise *. Repeat * 6 times [18].
4 row: * 2 PRS, raise *. Repeat * 6 times [24].
5-7 Series: no changes [24].
8 row: * 2 prs, decrease *. Repeat * 6 times [18].
9 row: No changes [18].
10 Row: * 2 PRS, raise *. Repeat * 6 times [24].
11 row: No changes [24].
12 Row: * 3 PRS, raise *. Repeat * 6 times [30].
13 row: No changes [30].
14 Row: * 4 PRS, raise *. Repeat * 6 times [36].
15-17 Series: no changes [36].
18 Row: * 4 prs, decrease *. Repeat * 6 times [30].
19 Row: * 3 prs, decrease *. Repeat * 6 times [24].
20 Row: * 2 prs, decrease *. Repeat * 6 times [18].
21 Row: * 1 prs, decrease *. Repeat * 6 times [12]. Fill.
22 row: * Decrease *. Repeat * 6 times [6].
Tighten the hole.
Fasten and hide the thread.

Legs (4 parts)
1 row: Dial 2 VP and tie 6 PRS in the second from the Hook Loop [6].
2 row: * Raise *. Repeat * 6 times [12].
3 row: No changes [12]. Changing the color of the yarn.
4-10 Series: No changes [12]. Fill. Leave the thread to sew the legs to the torso.

Neck
Leave a long tip to sew the neck to the head.
1 row: Dial 14 vp and wink them into the ring. To tie 6 PRs, raise, 6 PRS, increase [16].
2 row: * 7 PRS, raise *. Repeat * 2 times [18].
3 row: * 8 PRS, raise *. Repeat * 2 times [20]. Fill. Leave the sewing thread to the torso.

Ears (2 parts)
1 row: Dial 2 VP and tie 6 PRS in the second from the Hook Loop [6].
2 row: * 2 PRS, raise *. Repeat * 2 times [8].
3 row: * 3 PRS, raise *. Repeat * 2 times [10].
4 Row: * 4 PRS, raise *. Repeat * 2 times [12].
5 row: No changes [12].
6 Row: * 4 prs, decrease *. Repeat * 2 times [10].
7 row: * 3 PRS, raise *. Repeat * 2 times [8]. Leave a thread for sewing ears to the head.

Torso
1 row: Dial 2 VP and tie 6 PRS in the second from the Hook Loop [6].
2 row: * Raise *. Repeat * 6 times [12].
3 row: * 1 PRS, raise *. Repeat * 6 times [18].
4 row: * 2 PRS, raise *. Repeat * 6 times [24].
5 row: * 3 PRS, raise *. Repeat * 6 times [30].
6 Row: * 4 PRS, raise *. Repeat * 6 times [36].
7-14 Series: no changes [36].
15 Row: * 4 prs, decrease *. Repeat * 6 times [30].
16 Row: * 3 prs, decrease *. Repeat * 6 times [24].
17 Row: * 2 prs, decrease *. Repeat * 6 times [18].
18 Row: * 1 prs, decrease *. Repeat * 6 times [12]. Fill.
19 Row: * Decrease *. Repeat * 6 times [6].
Tighten the hole and leave the thread to sew the tail.

Materials: 
Medium-thick acrylic yarn – (pink, red and milky) 
Hooks No. 3 and 5 

Needle 
Filler 
1 pair of eyes 12 mm in diameter. 
Adhesive for fabric. 
Marker loops 

Note: 
The model is knitted in a circle in a spiral (without the completion of the rows of the connecting post). 

Amigurumi Horse Unicorn Free Pattern

Hind Feet: (2 pieces) 
Knit crochet No. 3 with a red thread. 
Row 1: The initial magic ring, 6 RLS in this ring. (6) 
Row 2: 2 sc in each RLS until the end of the series. (12) 
Row 3: * 1 sc, 2 sc in the next. RLS *, repeat to the end of the series. (18) 
Row 4: * 2 sc, 2 sc in the next. RLS *, repeat to the end of the series. (24)
Row 5: * 3 sc, 2 sc in the next. RLS *, repeat to the end of the series. (30) 
Row 6-10: RLS to the end of the series. (30) 
Change the color to pink. 
Row 11-14: RLS to the end of the series. (30) 
Row 15: * 3 RLS, 2 RLS together *, repeat to the end of the series. (24) 
Row 16-17: RLS to the end of the series. (24) 
Row 18: * 2 sc, 2 scs together *, repeat to the end of the series. (18) 
Row 19-20: RLS to end of row (18) 
Start filling with filler. 
Row 21: * 1 sc, 2 scs together *, repeat until the end of the series. (12) 
Row 22-23: RLS to the end of the series. (12) 
Add the filler, short of the upper edge of the leg. 
Row 24: * 2 RLS together *, repeat until the end of the series. (6) 
Row 25: RLS to the end of the series. (6)
Finish the work, leaving the long end, stretch it through the hinges and close the hole. 
Front legs: (2 pieces) 
Knit crochet number 3 with a thread of red color. 
Row 1: The initial magic ring, 6 RLS in this ring. (6) 
Row 2: 2 sc in each RLS until the end of the series. (12) 
Row 3: * 1 sc, 2 sc in the next. RLS *, repeat to the end of the series. (18) 
Row 4: * 2 sc, 2 sc in the next. RLS *, repeat to the end of the series. (24) 
Row 5-10: RLS to the end of the series. (24) 
Change the color to pink. 
Row 11-17: RLS to the end of the series. (24) 
Row 18: * 2 sc, 2 scs together *, repeat to the end of the series. (18) 
Row 19-20: RLS to the end of the series. (18) 
Start filling with filler.
Row 21: * 1 sc, 2 scs together *, repeat until the end of the series. (12) 
Row 22-23: RLS to the end of the series. (12) 
Add the filler, short of the upper edge of the leg. 
Row 24: * 2 RLS together *, repeat until the end of the series. (6) 
Row 25: RLS to the end of the series. (6) 
Finish the work, leaving the long end, pull it through the hinges and close the hole. 

Body: 
Knit with pink yarn and crochet No. 3. 
Row 1: Initial magic ring, 6 RLS in this ring. (6) 
Row 2: 2 sc in each RLS until the end of the series. (12) 
Row 3: * 1 sc, 2 sc in the next. RLS *, repeat to the end of the series. (18) 
Row 4: * 2 sc, 2 sc in the next. RLS *, repeat to the end of the series. (24) 
Row 5: * 3 sc, 2 sc in the next. RLS *, repeat to the end of the series. (thirty)
Row 6: * 2 sc in the next. RLS, 4 scs *, repeat to the end of the series. (36) 
Row 7-17: RLS to the end of the series. (36) 
Row 18: * 2 RLS together, 4 scs *, repeat to the end of the series. (30) 
Row 19-25: RLS to the end of the series. (30) 
Start filling with filler. 
Row 26: * 2 scs together, 3 scs *, repeat to the end of the series. (24) 
Row 27: * 2 scs together, 2 scs *, repeat to the end of the series. (18) 
Fill the entire body with a filler. 
Row 28: * 2 RLS together, 1 RLS *, repeat to the end of the series. (12) 
Row 29: * 2 RLS together *, repeat to the end of the series. (6) 
Finish the work, leave the long end and sew a hole to it. 

Head: 
Hook No. 3 
Start knitting with milk color.
Row 1: The initial magic ring, 6 RLS in this ring. (6) 
Row 2: 2 sc in each RLS until the end of the series. (12) 
Row 3: * 1 sc, 2 sc in the next. RLS *, repeat to the end of the series. (18) 
Row 4: * 2 sc, 2 sc in the next. RLS *, repeat to the end of the series. (24) 
Row 5: * 2 sc in the next. RPS, 3 RLS *, repeat to the end of the series. (30) 
Row 6: * 2 sc in the next. RLS, 4 scs *, repeat to the end of the series. (36) 
Row 7: * 5 sc, 2 sc in the next. RLS *, repeat to the end of the series. (42) 
Row 8-14: RLS to the end of the series. (42) 
Change the color to pink. 
Row 15-16: RLS to the end of the series. (42) 
Row 17: * 2 RLS together, 5 RLS *, repeat to the end of the series. (36) 
Row 18: * 2 RLS together, 4 scs *, repeat to the end of the series. (thirty)
Row 19-22: RLS to the end of the series. (30) 
Attach the eyes just above the row, tied with milky color. 
Start filling with filler. 
Row 23: * 2 scs together, 3 scs *, repeat to the end of the series. (24) 
Row 24: * 2 scs together, 2 scs *, repeat to the end of the series. (18) 
Fill the entire head with filler. 
Row 25: * 2 RLS together, 1 RLS *, repeat to the end of the series. (12) 
Row 26: * 2 RLS together *, repeat until the end of the series. (6) 
Finish the work, leave the long end and sew a hole to it. 

Ears: (2 pieces) 
Knit with pink yarn and crochet No. 3. 
Row 1: Initial magic ring, 4 sc in this ring. (4) 
Row 2: * 2 sc in the next. RLS, 1 RLS *, repeat to the end of the series. (6)
Row 3: * 2 sc in the next. RLS, 2 RLS *, repeat to the end of the series. (8) 
Row 4: * 2 sc in the next. RPS, 3 RLS *, repeat to the end of the series. (10) 
Row 5: * 2 sc in the next. RLS, 4 scs *, repeat to the end of the series. (12) 
Row 6: * 2 sc in the next. RLS, 5 RLS *, repeat to the end of the series. (14) 
Row 7: * 2 sc in the next. RPS, 6 sc *, repeat to the end of the series. (16) 
Finish the work, leave the long end for sewing to the head. 
Flatten and do not add filler. 

Horn: 
Knit with red yarn and crochet No. 3. 
Row 1: Initial magic ring, 4 RLS in this ring. (4) 
Row 2: * 2 sc in the next. RLS, 1 RLS *, repeat to the end of the series. (6) 
Row 3: * 2 sc in the next. RLS, 2 RLS *, repeat to the end of the series. (8)
Row 4-8: RLS to the end of the series. (8) 
Finish the work, leave the long end for sewing to the head. 
Fill with filler. 

Mane: (consists of three parts) 
1) Knit a double thread of milk and red flowers by hook No. 5. (1 detail) 
2) Knit with a red thread crochet № 3. (2 parts) 
14 cent. * (СБН, СН, С2Н, СН, СБН) in the 2nd c.p. from the hook. 
SS in the next. vp * Repeat until the last c.p. 
Note: There should be 7 small shells. 

Tail: 
Knit with double thread of milk and red flowers by hook No. 5. 
8 cp. * (СБН, СН, С2Н, СН, СБН) in the 2nd c.p. from the hook. 
SS in the next. vp * Repeat until the last c.p. 
Note: There should be 4 small shells.

Assembling: 
Sew ears and horn to the head. 
A red thread embroider two nostrils in the form of a cross. 
Sew your feet to the body. 
Sew my head to the body. 
Sew together the pieces of mane. (In the center – milky red, on each side a red mane). Sew on the mane behind the head and body.
Fold the tail in half, combining the two seashells, and sew it in the lower back of the body.

We are preparing a hook No. 1.75 or No. 2, suitable for him yarn. 
Decide on the color scheme yourself – Horses are different – black, white, red! 
The main thing for the tail and mane is to find the right shade so that the combination is harmonious. 
The wire is needed in isolation, 4mm thick – who knit a blotter, he knows – the same. 

A piece of white knitwear (an old T-shirt, or a T-shirt, or … but we will not tell anyone about this) 

Acrylic paints or special dyes for fabric. 
Oil paint shade suitable for the color of yarn, which will knit the horse itself. 
Oil paint should be darker than the base color, the color of the yarn. 
Filler, of course. 

So let’s go! 

Amigurumi Horse of Cauca Free Pattern

We start knitting horses with the details of the body 

1p.6 
Sat 2r.6 times increase = 12
3p.6 times (increase, 1Sbn) = 18 
4p.6 times (2Sbn, increase) = 24 
5p.1Sbn, increase, 5 times (3Sbn, increase), 2Sbn = 30 
6p.6 times (4Sbn, increase) = 36 
7p.2 Cbl, increase, 5 times (5Bs, increase), 3Sbn = 42 
8r.42Sbn 
9r.6 times (increase, 6Sbn) = 48 
10р.48Сбн 
11р. 6 times (increase, 7Сбн) = 54 
12р. 54 Sat 
13r.6 times (increase, 8 Sat) = 60 
14-18 p . 60 Sat
19r.4 times (decrease, 3 Sat), decrease, 38 Sat = 55 
Sat 20-22 p.55 Sat 

Align the beginning of the row relative to the beginning of the second row of knitting – move forward, tying required for this amount 
This number is determined visually, the total number of loops does not change during this maneuver.
23r. 5 times (decrease, 3Сбн), 30 Сбн = 50 
24-26р. 50 Sat 27r . 
Attention! 
This series should start from the beginning of reductions in the previous rows. Therefore, again move the start of knitting. 
Again, this is determined by the eye. 
5 times (decrease, 4Cbn), 5 Cbd = 45 
28p.45 Cbn 
29r.5 times (decrease, 7x) = 40 
30r.40 Cbn 

Bite off a wire about 20-21 cm long. 
Bend it arc. 
Determine the place of growth of the hind legs. 
To do this, we first determine where the back of the horse is, where the tummy is – the back is slightly arched, the tummy, on the contrary, is convex. 
Then you need to determine the middle of the back and abdomen, so that the legs are in the lower part of the body, and not somewhere on the side.

The center can be marked with a marker – a contrasting thread, for example. 
The holes for the legs are made by widening the distance between the hook and the knitting needle. Holes should be quite small – on the diameter of the wire. 
You need to arrange them between 12 and 13 rows. 
Between them there should be about 18 Sbc, if we count on the 13th row. 

31р.5 times (decrease, 6Сбн) = 35 
32р.35Сбн 

Fill the back part of the body, evenly distributing the filler around the frame. 
The frame itself, or rather the upper part should be at a distance of 1 cm from the knitted fabric. 

Bend the second wire for the front legs. 
We also verify the distance and make holes for the frame, place them between 26 and 27 rows.
When viewed from the side, the front and rear legs should be almost in line. 

The edge of the arc of the frame should rest against the knitted fabric. 
Fill the space around the frame of the front legs with filler, properly tamping it. 

33r.6 times (decrease, 5Сбн) = 30 
34р.6 times (decrease, 3 Сбн) = 24 

Fill the rest of the body 

35р.6 times (decrease, 2 Сбн) = 18 
36р.6 times (decrease, 1 Сбн) = 12 
37р. 6 decreases = 6 

Pull down the hole, before that add some filler if necessary. 
At the ends of the wire twist the small loops and bend them forward in the shape of the foot. 
As a result, at this stage, the legs should be about 5 cm long. 

Getting to the hooves.
1р.6Сбн 
2р.6 times increase = 12 
3р.6 times (increase, 1Сбн) = 18 
4р.6 times (2Сбн, increase) = 24 
5р.24Сбн for the back wall of the pigtail 
6р.24Сбн
7р.6 times (2Сбн, diminishing ) = 18 
8р.6 times (decrease, 1Сбн) = 12 
Instead of the last Cbn, we knit Cc, in which we change the color of the hoof to the main color of the horse. 
9r. 6 decreases 

After the first reduction is completed, cut off the thread that knitted the hoof and tie this tip firmly on the two knots together with the tip of the thread of a new color. 

After two or three reductions of the 9th row, insert the frame and fill the hoof, distributing the filler evenly around the frame.

After finishing the row, fix and cut the thread, leaving a long tip for the subsequent winding of the leg. 
Thread the tip of the thread into the needle and tighten the part around the frame. 

Wrap the wire double-sided tape. 
Who has no scotch, try to use Moment – ​​Crystal glue. 
Try to apply a thin layer of it. 

We wind wire with thread. 

Repeat the same with the rest of the legs. 

Begin to knit a  snout 11 rubles. A chain of 10Vp – jumper, hook hook into the 19th loop in a circle, 15Sbn, reaching the chain, 10Sbn (1Sbn in each loop of the chain, behind the back wall of the pigtail) = 25 
12r.25Sbn 
13r.The addition , 11Sbn, decrease, 10Sbn = 23 
14р. Decrease, 9Sbn, decrease, 10Sbn = 21 
15-17r.21Sbn 18r.10 
times addition, 11Sbn = 31 
19-24r.31 
25r.5 times (decrease, 4Sbn), 1Sbn = 25 
26r.5 times (decrease, 3Sbn), 1SBN = 19
27р.5 times (decrease, 2Сбн), 1Сбн = 13 
28р.5 times (reduction, 1Сбн), 1Сбн = 7 
29р.5 decrease. 
Fasten the thread, cut, pull the hole. 
Fill the muzzle. 

Getting to the neck knitting. 
From the main part we have 18 loops left + 10 loop chain = 28 loops. 
On these loops we will knit the neck. 
We attach the thread to the 10th Sbn of 18 – this will be the beginning of the series. 
Knit in a spiral. 

1p.1Vp lifting, 1Sbn in the same loop, from which raised Bp – this is one element, the first Cbn in a row, 7Cbn, a decrease (one of the reduction tables falls on a head detail, the second on a column, which is knitted on a jumper), 8Cbn, decrease (in the same way as the first), 8Сбн = 26
2p.8Sbn, Gaunt (one column in the decrease of the previous row, second to the column jumper), 6Sbn, Gaunt, 8Sbn = 24 
3p.8Sbn, Gaunt, 4Sbn, Gaunt, 8Sbn = 22 
4р. 8Sbn, increase, 2Sbn, increase, 8Sbn = 20 
5-10r.20 11 
p.2 times (1Sbn, increase), 12Sbn, 2 times (increase, 1Sbn) = 24 
12-15r.24Sbn 
16p.2raza (2Sbn, increase), 2Sbn, 2Psn (polustolbik with sc) 4Ssn (column with sc) 2Psn, 2Sbn, 2 times (gain, 2Sbn) = 28 
17r.7Ss, 3Sbn, 2Psn, 4Ssn, 2Psn, 3Sbn, 7Ss = 28 
thread fasten and cut , leaving a long tip for later sewing parts to the body. 

We pin the head to the body with pins, so that the extreme point of the neck under the head touches the last straightened row of the body.

We sew parts – one short stitch behind the body, one for the closest wall of the pigtail, we sew a seam by analogy with lacing, carefully tightening each stitch. 

Ears 
Chain 8Vp + 1Vp lifting 
1p.7Sbn, 3Sbn to the last loop of the chain, 7Sbn. Knitting in a circle does not close, rotate. 
2p.1Vp, in the same loop, from which they just raised the Bp, knit 1Sbn, 4Psn, 5Sbn. Turn. 
3r. 1Bn + 1Sbn to the same loop, 8Sbn, 2Sbn to the next loop. 
Fasten the thread, cut off, leaving a long tip, nudge it into a needle and tilt along the seamy side to the base of the ear. 

Fold the eyelet in half lengthways and grab both sides together for 0.5 cm from the base with several stitches.

Fasten the thread, cut off, thread the tip of the thread into the needle, carefully thread it to the base and sew the ear to the head part, previously pinned with pins. 

Tail 
1R. In the ring amigurumi 8Sbn 2-7p.8Sbn 
We cut the yarn into segments of approximately 16-17cm. 
It will be convenient if you pick up any suitable template. 
I have this time made a notebook. 
The yarn is wound on this pattern, then cut at one point – we get segments of threads of the same length. 
And the tail and mane need segments of the same length, so we prepare everything at once. 
With the help of a hook (you can take a size smaller than the one that was knitted), the yarn clings to the tail, according to the principle of fringe.
The photo shows the direction of introduction of the hook into the canvas and the direction of the thread, which we insert relative to the hook and details. 

Ready tail sew to the body between 11 and 13 next to the start of knitting. 

Mane 
From ears to withers we outline the line of growth of the mane. 
If you have a dark yarn, you can use a remnant, if light – a simple pencil or gel pen, for example (in the second case – do not be particularly zealous). 
The line will be closed with a yarn, but nevertheless try to hold it neatly. 
Attach the mane. 
Again, pay attention to which way we are introducing the hook, hooking the thread so that the growth line is neat. 
Tighten each thread attached securely. 

Having finished with a mane, we begin to increase a bang.
For this, we also designate a bang area in a contrasting line. 
Starting from the ears, attach a few threads, sticking a hook in the same direction that you stuck in the mane – send these strands behind the ears. 
The following rows begin to build in the direction of the face, respectively, stick the hook in the opposite direction. Threads need to be attached to each column and row so that there are no bald spots. 

Now all this lush vegetation needs to be cut. Bang leave a length of approximately to the middle of the face. 
To trim the mane, turn the horse upside down and trim the mane so that all the threads are the same length. 
It is desirable that the mane lowered on its side does not cover the beginning of the growth of the front leg. 
Trim the tail too.
So that the bang does not stick out, it can be slightly moistened and tied with a thread before drying. 
You can do it later, after the eyes are sewn. 

Eyes 
For the eyes, we need to cut a circle with a diameter of 3.5 cm from a piece of white knitwear. 
Seam over the edge of this circle. 
Before you finally pull off the circle, fill it, slightly flattening, and fasten the thread. 
The thread is not cut off. 
We overtighten the ball in the center with two turns, fasten the thread. 
Then we take the black bobbin thread and also separate the eyes with two turns. 
Sew the white coil thread eyes to the muzzle, pre-fixing them with a pin.
On the sewn eyes, gently draw the pupils with black acrylic paint, set the glare with white paint. 
I use a toothpick for this. Nostrils also draw in black. 

Paints, by the way, are better suited for acrylic fabrics. 
Although the usual can also be used. 

Smile We 
embroider a smile with a thin black thread. 
I have this thin wool thread for embroidery. A smile is one stitch well stretched in an arcuate shape. 
At the edges of the smile – short stitches for greater expressiveness. 

Toning 
Now we are starting to tint the horse so that it becomes more interesting and effective. 
We take oil paints.
It is advisable to take the color on the tone darker about the color of the yarn. At first I thought that black could be useful, but then I stopped at Koput-Mortuum dark. 
So he is some kind of brown-maroon. 
Squeeze out a little paint on a napkin or paper towel to absorb excess oil. 

Then with a stiff brush, it will need bristle, take quite a bit of paint and begin to make strokes on the paper until these strokes become barely noticeable. 

Now we are starting to put a tone on our Tsatsu. 
It is advisable to highlight the area of ​​the back, croup, the beginning of the growth of the legs and the legs themselves – the upper part. 
Shade a little face and cheekbones – be careful, do not touch the white eyes. 

Now our Swell is ready!

Legend:
sbn – column without crochet 
pr – increment, tie two bars in one loop ,
yb – decrease, tie two loops together 
ss – connecting bar 

Amigurumi Rainbow Horse Free Pattern

Head-body:

Pink or other color 
1p – 6st 
2p -p.6 times (12st ) 
3p -1st, pr 6 p (18st) 
4p. – 2st, pr 6 times (24st) 
5p -3st, pr 6 times (30st) 
6p-30st 
7p -4st, pr.
6 times (36st) .
8p.- 36st 
9p. -delim on 24 (head) and 12 loops (neck and body) 
Continue to knit the head:
10-11r -24st 
12p -3st, pr 6 times (30st) 
13r-30st 
14p -4st, pr.6 times (36st) 
15- 16p-36st
Changing the white yarn
17p -4st, K 6 times (30st) 
18 p -30st 
19F -4st, etc. 6 times (36ST) 
20p -4st, K 6 times (30st) 
21P -3st, K 6 times (24st) 
22 p – 2st, уб 6 times (18st) 
23р – 1st, уб 6 times (12st) 
24р-decrease to the end

Neck, body:

Attach a new thread and knit  
1-4p -12st 
5p – 3st, pr.3 times (15st) 
6p – 15st
7p – 4st, pr.
3 times (18st) 
8-10p -18st 
11p -2st, pr 6 times (24st) 
12-13p – 24st 
14p 3st. pr 6 times (30st) 
15p -4st, pr.6 times (36st) 
16-28r -36st 
29r -4st, 6 times (30st) 
30p -3st, 6 times 6 times (24st) 
31 r -2st, 6 times 6 times (18st)
32р – 1st, уб 6 times (12st) 
33 р-reduction to the end, fix the thread 

Handles: 
Start white
1р – 6ст 2р -рr. 6 times ( 12ст )
3-5р -12ст 
6р -4ст. kill 2 times (10ст) 
Change the thread to pink 
7р-3ст, уб 2 times (8st) 
8-21р – 8ст 
22р – Decrease to the end 

Feet: 
Start white
1p – 6st 2p -p.6ra (12st) 
3p – 3st, pr 3 times (15st) 
4-6p – 15st
7p -3st, уб 3raza (12st) 
8р -4ст, уб 2 times (10st) 
9-23р -10st 
24р- reduction to the end of the 

Ears:

1р- 6st in the ring
2р-1ст , pr, 3 times (9st) 
3p – 9 st
4p – 2st, pr 3 times (12st) 
5p -12 st 
6p – 3st, pr 3 times (15st) 
7p -4st, pr 3 times (18st)
8p -18st 
9p-1st, 6d 6p (12st) 
10-12p – 12st 

Nostril:

Attach the thread and knit 5pins in 1 loop, then cut the thread so that it is enough for the 2nd nostril and pull the thread at the level of the second nostril and knit the same way. We fix, cut off the thread.

Materials

• Size 4 worsted weight yarn (150g main body color, small amount of white, accent color {hooves and mane}, and choice color for bandana)
• 3.5 mm crochet hook
• 5.5 mm crochet hook (for bandana)
• 15mm safety eyes
• Black crochet/embroidery thread for eyelashes (optional)
• Scissors
• Tapestry needle (I love the bent tips for amigurumi!)
• Stuffing
• Stitch markers (a piece of scrap yarn works great!)

Abbreviations: US terminology

MC- Magic circle

SC- Single crochet

SC INC- Single crochet increase

INV DEC- Invisible decrease

HDC- Half double crochet

HDC DEC – Half double crochet decrease

St(s)- Stitch(es)

*Slowly stuff as you go, you want it to be firm but not stretched. You will be working in the round, I like using a stitch marker at the beginning of each round.
You will use your 3.5mm crochet hook for each part of the pattern apart from the bandana, where we will use size 5.5mm. 
Instructions for the donkey and horse are the same. The difference between the two are the length of their mane.

Right Handed Video Tutorial for Joining Legs!

Legs: Make 2 – Using your accent color

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each st (12)

Round 3: SC in the first st, SC INC in the next, repeat around (18)

Round 4: SC in the first 2 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (24)

Rounds 5-9: SC around (24)

Change to white

Rounds 10-11: SC around (24)

Change to main body color

Rounds 12-21: SC around (24)

Fasten off (when you finish the 2nd leg do not fasten off, proceed to round 22) *Round 22 joins the legs together and starts the body.

Round 22: Chain 3 and attach to the first leg with a SC, SC in the remaining sts around the leg. When you reach the chain make a SC across each of the 3 chains, SC in the remaining sts of the next leg and SC across each of the 3 chains again. You will have crocheted on each side of the chain. (54 SC)

This completes your join and is where your next round will start.

Rounds 23-38: SC around (54)

Round 39: SC in the first 7 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (48)

Round 40: SC around (48)

Round 41: SC in the first 6 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (42)

Round 42: SC around (42)

Round 43: SC in the first 5 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (36)

Round 44: SC around (36)

Round 45: SC in the first 4 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (30)

Rounds 46-47: SC around (30)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing

Nose  

With main body color

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each st around (12)

Round 3: SC in the first st, SC INC in the next, repeat around (18)

Round 4: SC in the first 2 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (24)

Round 5: SC in the first 3 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (30)

Round 6: SC in the first 4 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (36)

Rounds 7-10: SC around (36)

Change to white
Round 11: SC around (36)

Round 12: SC in the first 4 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (30)

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. With a small amount of your accent color, add two nostrils by passing once or twice through 2 stitches, I made mine about 5 stitches apart just above the middle point.

Head 

With main body color

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12)

Round 3: SC in the first st, SC INC in the next, repeat around (18)

Round 4: SC in the first 2 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (24)

Round 5: SC in the first 3 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (30)

Round 6: SC in the first 4 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (36)

Round 7: SC in the first 5 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (42)

Round 8: SC in the first 6 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (48)

Round 9: SC in the first 7 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (54)

Rounds 10: SC in the first 8 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (60)

Rounds 11-22: SC around (60)

NOTE: Here is where we will attach the safety eyes. Place them 6 stitches apart between rounds 19-20. (Feel free to add eyelashes before securing the back of the eyes.)

Next, sew your nose piece centered between the eyes stuffing as you go.

Round 23: SC in the first 8 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (54)

Round 24: SC in the first 7 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (48)

Round 25: SC in the first 6 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (42)

Round 26: SC in the first 5 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (36)

Round 27: SC in the first 4 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (30)

Round 28: SC in the first 3 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (24)

*Continue to stuff the head firmly

Round 29: SC in the first 2 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (18)

Round 30: SC in the first stitch, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (12)

Round 31: INV DEC around (6)

Fasten off and sew remaining part closed, weave in your end

Ears

Make 2 with main body color

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 8 SC

Rounds 2-3: SC around (8)

Round 4: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, repeat around (12)

Round 5: SC around (12)

Round 6: SC in the first 2 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (16)

Rounds 7-10: SC around (16)

Round 11: SC in the first 2 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (12)

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing

Next, sew your ears onto the head starting at round 5 and ending at round 11 on each side.

Arms

Make 2 stuffing lightly at the bottom with accent color

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12)

Round 3: SC in the first 2 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (16)

Rounds 4-7: SC around (16)

Change to white

Rounds 8-9: SC around (16)

Change to main body color
Rounds 10-23: SC around (16)

At the end of round 23 pinch the arm flat and make 8 SC across the top to close, fasten off and leave a long tail to sew onto the body.

Bandana

With your 5.5mm hook and color of choice, chain 21

Row 1: HDC in the 2nd chain from your hook and in each chain across, chain 1 and turn (20)

Row 2: HDC DEC, 16 HDC, HDC DEC, chain 1 and turn (18)

Row 3: HDC DEC, 14 HDC, HDC DEC, chain 1 and turn (16)

Row 4: HDC DEC, 12 HDC, HDC DEC, chain 1 and turn (14)

Row 5: HDC DEC, 10 HDC, HDC DEC, chain 1 and turn (12)

Row 6: HDC DEC, 8 HDC, HDC DEC, chain 1 and turn (10)

Row 7: HDC DEC, 6 HDC, HDC DEC, chain 1 and turn (8)

Row 8: HDC DEC, 4 HDC, HDC DEC, chain 1 and turn (6)

Row 9: HDC DEC, 2 HDC, HDC DEC, chain 1 and turn (4)

Row 10: HDC DEC twice, chain 1 and turn (2)

Row 11: HDC DEC (1)

Border-

1. Chain 1 and SC down the side.

2. When you reach the first corner chain 10 (if you crochet tightly you may want to add a few extra chains).

3. SC in the 2nd chain from your hook and back down the chain. SC across the bottom of the bandana.

4. When you reach the next corner chain 10 again (if you added chains above be sure to make this side with the same count). SC in the 2nd chain from your hook and in each chain back to the bandana. SC across the last remaining side. At this point you will have crocheted across all 3 sides and have created 2 ties on either side.

Weave in your ends.

Assembly 

1. I found it easiest to complete the mane once the head was sewn onto the body. Be sure to keep your facial features centered and continue to stuff the neck before closing. This will help ensure a strong neck.

2. Next, sew the arms onto the body centered with the head at round 46.

Mane 

With your accent color cut multiple strips of yarn approximately 9 inches long for the horse and 7 inches for the donkey. You will need quite a few to fill in the mane.

– Taking 2 strands at a time and using your crochet hook, pull the strands through a stitch next to one of the ears to create a loop (picture 1).

– Next, pull your ends through the loop (picture 2) and pull tight (picture 3).

– Complete this step across the head to the other ear (picture 4).

Continue these steps to create extra rows working down the back of the head.

Donkey – Trim your mane to be approximately 2-3 inches long.

Horse – Trim as needed/ to your liking.

Tail 

With accent color cut 9 strips of yarn approximately 15 inches long. In similar fashion to our mane pull the loops of your strands through two stitches in the back of your horse/donkey. Pull the strand through your loop and pull tight. Trim your tail as desired, I kept mine about 2-3 inches long.

Lastly, tie your bandana around the neck and your horse and donkey are complete!

More Amigurumi Horse Ideas :