Materials:
– Worsted weight yarn (4 ply) in any two complementary colors and cream. (The U.K. equivalent is Aran & AUS/NZ is 8 ply.) And a small amount of cream in DK weight for the horns (see the horn section for details). For the main body, I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in the color “Peacock Sparkle Metallic,” and for the dark blue wings and details, I used “Dark Country Blue”. For the cream, I used Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in the color “Fisherman”.
– G (4 mm) crochet hook
– 12 mm black safety eyes
– Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice) 
– Bent tip tapestry needle
– Scissors 
– Stitch marker 
– Straight pins
– Black embroidery floss

Abbreviation Key
Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.

sc – single crochet
st/sts – stitch(e)
sl st – slip stitch
dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
hdc – half double crochet
hdc dec – half double crochet decrease
dc – double crochet
trc – triple crochet
BLO – back loops only
FLO – front loops only
R1 – round 1
rep – repeat
** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.

Amigurumi Crochet Mini Dragon Free Pattern:

Head (using medium blue worsted weight yarn)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 6 (6 sts) (you can use the magic circle/ring if you prefer as it won’t make a difference in the end. Watch this video to see how to start crocheting in the round using the “ch 2 method”.)
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7: *sc 5, inc* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R8-11: sc in all 42 sts (4 rounds total at 42 sts each)
R12: *sc 6, inc* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R13-15: sc in all 48 sts (3 rounds total at 48 sts each)
R16: *sc 7, inc* rep 2 times, hdc 7, inc, *sc 7, inc* rep 3 times (54 sts)
R17: sc 18, *hdc, hdc inc* rep 3 times, hdc 1, sc 29 (57 sts)
R18: sc 18, *hdc, hdc dec* rep 3 times, hdc 1, sc 29 (54 sts)
R19: sc in all 54 sts (54 sts)
R20: *sc 7, dec* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R21: *sc 6, dec* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R22: *sc 5, dec* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R23: *sc 4, dec* rep 6 times (30 sts)
Finish off.

Adding the Face
Insert your 12mm eyes between R15 & 16 of the head spaced 10 sts apart (Hint: insert the 1st eye. Count 10 sts from the hole where you inserted the 1st eye and insert the 2nd eye. There will be 8 visible sts between the eyes.) The eyes need to be centered between the hdc sts from R16-18 so the 7 hdc sts from R16 need to be visible between the eyes.
Take some black embroidery floss and embroider two slanted eyebrows above the eyes over R13 &14 of the head. The top of the st should be 2 sts from above the eye and the bottom of the st should be about 2 sts from the side of the eye.
Now we will embroider the eye details around the safety eyes. Take some white yarn (or any contrasting color of yarn) and split it down the middle so that it’s half the thickness.
Make a straight stitch just under each eye. You’ll want it to be about 3 sts wide and about one stitch less than halfway around the eye so there should be slightly more of the white stitch toward the outside of the eye than the inside.
Now, take some black yarn and embroider the nostrils over R17 of the head. Each nostril should be about one st tall and spaced about 2 sts apart from each other. Each nostril should be about 3 sts from the eyes.

Stuff the head firmly and then set it aside until we have made the body.

Body (using medium blue worsted weight yarn)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from the hook, sc 6 (6 sts) (you can use the magic circle if you prefer. Just start with 6 sc sts in a magic circle).
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7-11: sc in all 36 sts (5 rounds total at 36 sts each)
R12: *sc 4, dec* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R13-18: sc in all 30 sts (6 rounds total at 30 sts each)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the body firmly.

Sewing the Body to the Head of the Amigurumi Dragon
We will now sew the body to the head. Since both the last round of the head and the last round of the body have 30 sts, the two pieces will line up perfectly. Align the body to the underside of the head and using the whipstitch, sew the two pieces together. When you are about three fourths of the way around, you might want to put a little more stuffing into the neck to make it sturdier. When finished, knot the finishing tail from the head to remaining body tail to secure the sewing and weave the tails into the body to finish.
We will now add a stitch to the bridge of the nose to add some shaping. Take a piece of yarn and thread your tapestry needle. Insert your needle through the front of the neck and pull it up through the head, coming out between R15 & 16 of the head, 2 sts from the right eye (see first two images in the first collage below). Make a stitch across the nose that is 4 sts wide (see last image in the below collage) and then pull your needle through the head and back down to the neck, one stitch away from where you pulled the needle through the first time (see first image in the second collage below). Now pull the two ends tight so that the top of the nose is indented (see last two images in the second below collage).

Knot the two ends together to secure them and weave the remaining tails into the head to finish.

Head wings (make 2 using medium blue worsted weight yarn)
Head wings are worked in rows instead of rounds so we will ch 1, and turn at the end of each row.
**Start with a long starting tail as we will use this tail to sew the wings to the sides of the head later.
R1: ch 6, starting in the 2^nd ch from the hook, sc in each of the next 5 chs (5 sts), ch 1, turn
R2: sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1 (7 sts), ch 1, turn
R3: sc 7 (7 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail.
Position the wings centered to either side of the head over R8-13 of the head with the short side up against the head. Use straight pins to pin the wings in place so they don’t shift around while you sew them on. Using the long starting tail, sew them to the head using the whipstitch.

When finished, weave the finishing tail down to the sewing tail and knot them together to secure the sewing. Weave the remaining tails into the head to finish.

Horns (make 2 using cream sport weight yarn and a 2.75mm crochet hook)
IMPORTANT: I made my horns using sport weight/DK weight yarn and a 2.75mm crochet hook so that they would be smaller and more delicate-looking. If you do not have access to this weight of yarn using worsted weight yarn is fine, your horns will just turn out larger than mine. If you decide to use worsted weight yarn instead of sport/DK weight, then do not complete R5 of the horns just finish off after R4. This way your horns won’t be too big.
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from the hook, sc 4 (4 sts)
R2: inc, sc 3 (5 sts)
R3: inc, sc 4 (6 sts)
R4: inc, sc 5 (7 sts)
R5: inc, sc 6 (8 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff the horns.

Position the horns over R5-7 of the head spaced 4-5 sts apart from each other. I placed mine so that the curve from the increases was at the top, but you can place the curves wherever you like. Pin them in place using straight pins.

Using the long tail we left, sew the horns to the head using the whipstitch. When finished, knot the end to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the head.

Tummy piece (using cream worsted weight yarn)
Tummy piece is worked in rows instead of rounds so we will ch 1, and turn at the end of each row.
R1: ch 8, starting in the 2^nd ch from the hook, sc in each of the next 7 chs (7 sts), ch 1, turn
R2-11: sc in all 7 sts, ch 1, turn (10 rows total—7 sts)
R12: dec, sc 3, dec (5 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Take some dark blue yarn and make a large knot at one end so the yarn won’t pop out of the tummy piece.

Pull your yarn and needle through the tummy piece and embroider horizontal stripes across the front, spaced two rows apart. You can make these stripes as long or short as you like. I ended up with six total stripes. When finished, knot the remaining yarn to the backside of the tummy piece to secure it.

When finished, place the tummy piece centered over the front of the body and pin it in place using straight pins. The decreases from R12 should be at the top, under the neck.
To sew the top and bottom edges of the tummy piece to the body we will use the whipstitch.

Sew the sides down by going in and out of the holes at the edges of the piece. Step 1: Grab a stitch from the body and pull your needle up through the tummy piece. Step 2: Go over one stitch on the tummy piece and pull your needle through the tummy piece and a stitch from the body. Repeat steps 1 and 2 all the way around.

When finished, knot the ends to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tails into the body to finish.

Arms (make 2 using medium blue worsted weight yarn)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from the hook, sc 6 (6 sts)
R2-11: sc in all 6 sts (10 rounds total at 6 sts each)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.
On each arm, sew the open ends closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing.

Place the arms on either side of the body over R13-16 of the body so that the arms are angled slightly up. The arms should be overlapping the tummy piece. Pin the arms in place using straight pins.

For each arm, sew the top flat edge of the arm to the body using the whipstitch.

Weave the sewing tail down through the body and bring it up again under the paw’s tip (see the collage photo below). Pull your needle and yarn through the tip of the paw, and then go over one stitch on the paw from where you came up. Pull your needle and yarn through the paw and to the back of the body.

Leave the tail hanging at the back of the body until the second arm is sewn on. Once both arms are sewn on and the paws secure, weave the second arm’s tail to where the first arm’s tail is at the back of the body and secure them together with a knot. Weave the remaining tails into the body to finish.

Legs (make 2 using medium blue worsted weight yarn)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from the hook, sc 6 (6 sts)
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3-5: sc in all 12 sts (3 rounds total at 12 sts each)
R6: *sc 1, dec* rep 4 times (8 sts)
R7-8: sc in all 8 sts (2 rounds total at 8 sts each)
R9: *sc 1, inc* rep 4 times (12 sts)
R10: *sc 1, inc* 6 times (18 sts)
R11-14: sc in all 18 sts (4 rounds total at 18 sts each)
R15: *sc 1, dec* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R16: *sc 2, dec* rep 3 times (9 sts)
R17: *sc 1, dec* rep 3 times (6 sts)Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the front of the feet firmly, but stuff the backs/thighs very lightly so they are still moldable. Flatten the backs of the legs.

Sewing the Legs on
On each leg, sew the open ends closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing just like we did for the arms. Place the legs on either side of the body with the flat edge of the legs (the backs of the thighs) stretching over R9-11 of the body approx. The legs should overlap the tummy piece slightly and the edges of the feet will be spaced about 4 sts from each other.

Pin the legs in place using straight pins to keep everything in place. Once you’ve done this, place your dragon on a flat surface and make sure he can sit up on his own. If he cant, you need to adjust the legs by placing them lower or higher than R9-11 so that he’s able to sit on his own.

When you have the legs placed just right, sew the flat back edge to the body using the whipstitch.

Weave the sewing tail through the body and bring it up again under the middle part of the leg just behind the foot. Pull your needle and yarn through the middle of the leg and then go over one stitch on the leg from where you came up and pull your needle and yarn all the way through the leg and to the back of the body

Leave the tail hanging at the back of the body until the second leg is sewn on. Once both legs are sewn on, weave the second leg’s tail to where the first leg’s tail is at the back of the body and secure them together with a knot (like we did with the arms). Weave the remaining tails into the body to finish. The legs are now securely anchored to the sides of the body.

Tail (using medium blue worsted weight yarn)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from the hook, sc 4 (4 sts)
R2: inc, sc 2, inc (6 sts)
R3: sc in all 6 sts (6 sts)
R4: inc, sc 4, inc (8 sts)
R5: sc in all 8 sts (8 sts)
R6: inc, sc 6, inc (10 sts)
R7: sc in all 10 sts (10 sts)
R8: inc, sc 8, inc (12 sts)
R9: sc in all 12 sts (12 sts)
R10: inc, sc 10, inc (14 sts)
R11: sc in all 14 sts (14 sts)
R12: inc, sc 12, inc (16 sts)
R13: sc in all 16 sts (16 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Stuff the tail firmly and pin it to the back of the body using straight pins over R5-11 of the body or however far down you need to sew it on so that your dragon is able to sit on his own. The increases on the tail should be facing up so that the tip of the tail is pointing upwards.

Sew the tail to the body using the whipstitch. When finished, knot the end to the body to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the body to finish.

Wings (make 2 using dark blue worsted weight yarn)
Wings are worked in rows instead of rounds so we will ch 1, and turn at the end of each row.
R1: ch 2, starting in 2^nd ch from the hook, inc (2 sts), ch 1, turn
R2: *inc* rep 2 times (4 sts), ch 1, turn
R3: inc, sc 2, inc (6 sts), ch 1, turn
R4: inc, sc 4, inc (8 sts), ch 1, turn
R5: inc, sc 6, inc (10 sts), ch 1, turn
R6: inc, sc 8, inc (12 sts), ch 1, turn
R7: inc, sc 10, inc (14 sts), ch 1, turn
R8: inc, sc 13 (15 sts), ch 1, turn
R9: sc 14, inc (16 sts), ch 1, turn
R10: sl st 1, sc 1, hdc 1, dc 1, in the next st trc 2 then ch 2 then make 2 more trc in the same st, dc 1, hdc 1, sc 1, sl st 1 in each of the remaining 8 sts (19 sts)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Sewing the Wings to the Amigurumi Dragon Body
Place the wings onto the back of the body so that R10 is facing up. Pin the wings in place using straight pins. Sew the short back edge of the wings to R12-15 of the body at an angle so that the top edge of the wings touch and the bottoms flare out slightly. Sew the wings on using the whipstitch.

If your wings won’t stay forward from just sewing the short edge down and keep falling back, then sew a few sts down at the top of the wings (that is, R10. See below photo with the white arrows).

Knot the ends when finished to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tails into the body to finish. When finished, weave the starting tail from R1 up the side of the wing to the back of the body so that you can knot it to secure it and hide the tail in the body.

Congratulations!!!
More Amigurumi Dragon Ideas:

Materials:
• yarn (I used white, green and pink, but you can use whatever colour you like!)
• a crochet hook that matches your yarn size
• stuffing
• felt/safety eyes/embroidery thread

Abbreviations:
mr – magic ring
sc – single crochet
inc – increase
dec – decrease
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
ch – chain
st(s) – stitch(es)
slst – slipstitch
bbl – bobble stitch
BLO[..] – backloops only in [sts]
FLO[..] – frontloops only in [sts]
rnd(s) – round(s)
FO – fasten off

Amigurumi Crochet Plush Baby Dragon Free Pattern:

Tail and Body
We will first start by making the tail and body! Sts in GREEN indicate a colour change for the belly.
Using white,
1. 4 sc in mr (4)
2. 4 sc (4)
3. (1 sc + inc) x 2 (6)
4. 6 sc (6)

5. (2 sc+ inc) x 2 (8)
6.-8. 8 sc (8) (3 rnds)
9. (1 sc + inc) x 4 (12)
10. 12 sc (12)
11. (2 sc + inc) x 4 (16)
12. (3 sc + inc) x 4 (20)

13. 20 sc (20)
14. (4 sc + inc) x 4 (24)
Start stuffing tail.
15. 8 sc, 4 sc, 12 sc (24)
16.-20. 7 sc, 6 sc, 11sc (24) (5 rnds)
21. 8 sc, 4 sc, 12 sc (24)

22. dec, 2 sc, dec, 8 hdc, (2 sc + dec) x 2, 2 sc (20)
23. dec, 1 sc, dec, 8 hdc, (1 sc + dec) x 2, 1 sc (16)
24. 2 dec, 8 hdc, 4 sc (14)
25. dec, 8 hdc, dec, 2 sc (12)
26. 12 hdc (12)
Finish stuffing.
FO and leave a long tail for sewing.

Head:
Using white,
1. 5 sc in mr (5)
2. 5 inc (10)
3. 10 sc (10)
4. 10 inc (20)
5.-6. 20 sc (20) (2 rnds)
7. (3 sc + inc) x 5 (25)
8. 25 sc (25)

Add safety eyes between rnds 6-7 with 9 sts in between, counting over the top of the head.
9. bbl, 1 sc, mini bbl, 13 sc, mini bbl, 1 sc, bbl, 6 sc (25)

10. (3 sc+dec) x 5 (20)
11. (2 sc + dec) x 5 (15)
12. (1 sc + dec) x 5 (10)
Stuff head and FO. Sew hole closed.

Legs x 4:
We will be making the dragons legs according to the dragon’s left and right side. The last rnd will be different for the left and right sides. Sts in GREEN indicate a colour change for the toes.
Using white, make 4 legs:
1. 6 sc in mr (6)
2. (1 sc+ inc) x 3 (9)
3. 2 sc, 3 mini bbl, 4 sc (9)
4. 9 sc (9) (3 rnds)

ITS LEFT SIDE X 2:
5. 4 hdc, 5 sc (9)
Stuff and FO. Leave a tail for sewing.

ITS RIGHT SIDE X 2:
5. 5 sc, 4 hdc (9)
Stuff and FO. Leave a tail for sewing.

Spikes:
For the spikes, you can adjust the length of the ch according to your dragon. Just make sure it’s a multiple of 4.
Using green,
1. Ch 40 (40)
2. (hdc, dc, ch 1, 2 slst) x 10 (40)
FO and leave a long tail for sewing.

Ears:
Make 2: Using white,
1. Ch 3 (3)
2. In the second ch from the hook: hdc, dc (2)
FO and leave a tail for sewing.

Wings:
Make 2:
Using white,
1. ch 9 (9)
2. In the 2nd st from the hook: 2 hdc, 3 sc, 3 slst, ch 1 and turn work (8)
3. FLO [2 slst, 4 sc,] turn work with no ch (6)
4. BLO [2 hdc, 2 sc, 2 slst,] ch 1 and turn work (6)
5. FLO [2 slst, 2 sc,] turn work with no ch (4)
6. BLO [1 hdc, 2 sc, 1 slst,] (4)
FO and leave a long tail for sewing.

Assembly:
1. attach the body to the head between rnds 6 – 10 of the head with bigger bbls on the bottom.
2. attach the two front legs between rnds 19 – 23 of the body counting up from the tail about 2 sts apart. Make sure you are attaching the right leg on its and vice versa.
2. attach the two back legs between rnds 13 – 15 of the body with about 4 sts in between. I sewed mine angled outward so that my dragon looks like it is sitting.
3. sew on the ears on rnd 9 of the head counting up from the nose.
4. attach the spikes starting on rnd 6 of the head along the back and down the tip of the tail.
5. attach the wings on its back between rnds 16 – 20 of the body with about 3 sts in between.
All done!! Thank you for making my pattern!

More Amigurumi Dragon Ideas:

Materials
– Figurine. Iris threads, 3 colors you like.
– I used green as the main color of the figure, yellow for the horns and wings, and red for the comb and face design.
– Eyes. I used regular black beads, since the figure turns out to be quite miniature. If you use a fluffier thread and a larger hook, a bead size of 3mm is suitable. For white halos around the eyes, you will need a white iris thread.
– Monofilament thread for sewing parts (optional, I like to use it because it is “invisible” and the stitches will never be noticeable)
– Hook 0.7
– Wire for the frame and the ability to give the dragon different poses.
– Sintepon for stuffing.

Abbreviation:
• MR: Magic ring.
• Rnd: Round.
• Sc: Singer crochet.
• Inc: Singer crochet increase (2 sc in one stitch).
• Dec: Singer crochet decrease (make 2 stitches in one stitch).
• Sts: Stitches.
• BLO: Back loop only.
• Hdc: Half double crochet.
• Slst: Slip stitch.

Amigurumi Crochet Mythril Dragon Doll Free Pattern:

Body.
1. 6 sc in MR
2. 6 inc (12)
3. (1 sc, inc)*6 (18)
4. (2 sc, inc)*6 (24)
5. (3 sc, inc)*6 (30)
6. (4 sc, inc)*6 (36)
7. (5 sc, inc)*6 (42)
8. (6 sc, inc)*6 (48)
9-13. 48 sc
14. 14 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 16 sc (45)
15. 45 sc
16. (13 sc, dec)*3 (42)
17. (12 sc, dec)*3 (39)
18-19. 39 sc
20. (11 sc, dec)*3 (36)
21-22. 36 sc
23. 10 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 12 sc (33)
24. (9 sc, dec)*3 (30)
25. 8 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec 10 sc (27)
26. (7 sc, dec)*3 (24)
Stuff the toy tightly and evenly with padding polyester.
27. (6 sc, dec)*3 (21)
28. (5 sc, dec)*3 (18)
29. (4 sc, dec)*3 (15)
30. (3 sc, dec)*3 (12)
31-35. 12 sc
There is no need to close or tighten the hole. If necessary, add more stuffing to the belly for density and stability of the dragon. There is no need to stuff the neck tightly, we will still have wire here and in general the neck should be able to bend.

Head.
1. We cast on 6 ch, from the second loop from the hook we crochet 4 sc, 3 sc in 1 loop, turn the crocheting, on the second side of the chain 3 sc, increase. There should be a total of 12 stitches on the row.
2. inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc (18)
3. 1 sc, inc, 3 sc, (1 sc, inc)*3, 3 sc, (1 sc, inc)*2 (24)
4. 2 sc, inc, 3 sc, (2 sc, inc)*3, 3 sc, (2 sc, inc)*2 (30)
5-9. 30 sc
10. 3 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 20 sc (28)
11. 28 sc
12. 1 sc, (8 sc, dec)*3 (25)
13. 1 sc, (8 sc, dec)*3 (22)
14. 22 sc
15. 6 sc, inc, 10 sc, dec, 3 sc (22)
16. 6 sc, inc, 10 sc, dec, 3 sc (22)
17. (10 sc, inc)*2 (24)
18-22. 24 sc
23. (2 sc, dec)*6 (18)
24. (1 sc, dec)*6 (12)
25. 6 dec (6)
We insert the wire into the place of attachment with the body.

Arms(2 parts).
1. 6 sc in MR
2. (1 sc, inc)*3 (9)
3-4. 9 sc
5. dec, 7 sc (8) Add a drop of stuffing
6. dec, 6 sc (7)
7. dec, 5 sc (6)
8-11. 6 sc
Insert a piece of wire.

Legs (2 parts).
1. 6 sc in MR
2. 6 inc (12)
3-5. 12 sc
6. dec, 10 sc (11)
7. dec, 9 sc (10) We fill the legs.
8. dec, 8 sc (9)
9. dec, 7 sc (8)
10-14. 8 sc
Insert the wire and bend the free end to the side. Through the wire, passing one loop, we crochet the closing row with decreases (1sc, dec) * 3, tighten the hole.

Ears (2 parts).
1. 6 sc in MR
2. (1 sc, inc)*3 (9)
3. (2 sc, inc)*3 (12)
4-5. 12 sc
6. (2 sc, dec)*3 (9)
7. (1 sc, dec)*3 (6)
No need to stuff ears.

Tail.
1. 6 sc in MR
2-4. 6 sc
5. inc, 5 sc (7)
6-7. 7 sc
8. 2 inc, 5 sc (9)
9-13. 9 sc
14. 2inc, 7 sc (11)
15. 11 sc
16. (1 sc, inc)*2, 7 sc (13)
17. (1 sc, inc)*2, 9 sc (15)
18. 3 sc, (1 sc, inc)*3, 6 sc (18)
19. 18 sc
20. (5 sc, inc)*3 (21)
We stuff the part tightly and insert the wire.

Wings (2 parts).
1. We cast on 10 ch, from the second loop from the hook we crochet 9 sc
2. 1 ch, turn the crocheting, 7 sc in the opposite direction
3. 1 ch, turn, 7 sc
4. 1 ch, turn, 5 sc
5. 1 ch, turn, 5 sc

Mane.
We crochet the mane for the dragon with small spiked triangles according to the pattern:
4 ch, ch the second loop from the hook 2 sc, then again 4 ch, ch the second loop from the hook 2 sc and so on.
You should end up with a chain of spikes like this:

The length of the chain depends on how voluminous your figure and tail are.
Therefore, attach the ponytail to the body, you can pin it or sew it on straight away (don’t forget to insert the wire into the ponytail before sewing it on!) and try on the mane as you crochet it.
I got 15 spikes.

Eyes and nostrils.
6 sc in MR

Assembly tips.
–When assembling, it is better to first try on the parts on a pin fastening to understand how the figure looks.
–The use of pins also greatly facilitates the procedure of sewing on the mane – it will not slip away or curl anywhere. I recommend sewing on monofilament thread so that the seams are completely invisible and you don’t have to pick them up.
–On the contrary, it is better to sew the eyes with dark thread in several layers so that the hole in the bead is not visible.
–As you sew on the parts, do not forget to slightly shape the figure with your fingers, as if it were made of plasticine. This way the stuffing inside won’t crumple into one corner and the figurine will retain its symmetrical, neat shape.
– Do not rush to give a play pose and bend the paws at the time of assembly. It is much easier to sew on the arms and legs in the T-pose of the figure.

More Amigurumi Dragon Ideas:

MATERIALS
3.5mm crochet hook
Yarn: Himalaya Dolphin Baby
Color: Black (80311), White (80318)
Some black, white and red cotton yarn
Black thread for embroidering mouth
Fabric adhesive
Stitch markers
Scissors
Bead fiber (for stuffing)
The finished size: 20 cm

ABBREVATIONS
MR: Magic Ring
st(s): Stitch(es)
sl st: Slip stitch
ch: Chain
SC: Single Crochet
INC: Increase
DEC: Decrease
FLO: Front loop only
BLO: Back loop only

NOTES
1– The pattern is written using crochet terminology common in the US.
2– If you use any yarn and hook size you prefer but this can/will change the look and size of plushie.
3– In this pattern work in spiral unless the pattern writes otherwise. 4-Different tension may create different results.

Amigurumi Red and Black Plush Dragon Free Pattern:

HEAD & BODY & TAIL
Use Black yarn:
• Row 1: Make 6 sc in MR. (6)
• Row 2: 6 inc (12)
• Row 3: (1 sc, inc)*6 (18)
• Row 4: 18 sc (18)
• Row 5: 6 sc, (inc)*5, 6 sc (24)
• Row 6-7: 24 sc. (24)
• Row 8: (2 sc, dec)*6 (18)
• Row 9: 18 sc. (18)
• Row 10: (1 sc, dec)*6 (12)
• Fill with fiber.
• The head is finished, continue with the neck.
• Row 11-13: 12 sc (12)
• Fill with fiber.
• The neck is finished, continue with the body.
• Row 14: 3 sc, (inc)*6, 3 sc (18)
• Row 15: 18 sc (18)
• Row 16: 3 sc, (1 sc, inc)*6, 3 sc (24)
• Row 17-19: 24 sc (24)
• Row 20: 3 sc, (1 sc, dec)*6, 3 sc (18)
• Row 21: 18 sc (18)
• Fill with fiber
• The body is finished, continue with the tail.
• Row 22: (3 sc, dec)*3, 3 sc (15)
• Row 23: 15 sc (15)
• Row 24: (3 sc, dec)*3 (12)
• Row 25: 12 sc (12)
• Row 26: (2 sc, dec)*3 (9)
– Fill with fiber.
• Row 27:9 sc (9)
• Row 28: (1 sc, dec)*3 (6)
– Close it all with a needle.

BACK LEGS: MAKE 2
Use Black yarn:
• Row 1: Make a chain 4
• Row 2: 3 sc, 3 inc, 2 sc, inc (10)
• Row 3: 4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc (12)
• Row 4: 12 sc (12)
• Row 5: 3 sc, 3 dec, 3 sc (9)
– Fill with fiber.
• Rows 6-8: 9 sc (9)
• Fold the piece in half and crochet the edges together.
• Leave a long yarn tail for sewing.
• Sew the back legs between the 6th and 10th rows, positioning them after the tail.
• Use Black yarn:

FRONT LEGS: MAKE 2
• Use Black yarn:
• Row 1: Chain 3
• Row 2: 2 sc, 3 inc, 2 sc, inc (8)
• Row 3: 3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc (10)
• Row 4: 10 sc (10)
• Row 5: 2 sc, 3 dec, 2 sc (7)
• – Fill with fiber.
• Rows 6-8: 7 sc (7)
• Fold the piece in half and crochet the edges together.
• Leave a long yarn tail for sewing.
• Sew the front legs 5 rows below the back legs.

EYES: MAKE 2
Use Red yarn:
• Row 1: Make 5 sc in MR (5)
• Row 2: 5 inc (10)
• Leave a long thread for sewing.
• Use Black yarn:
• Row 1: Make 7 sc in MR (7)
• Row 2: 7 sc (7)
• Cut the yarn and secure it.
• Sew the black circle slightly off-center onto the red base.
• Using white thread, add 2 small dots to the black circle for detail.
• Sew the assembled eyes between the 4th and 5th rows of the main piece, leaving 4 sc between them.

EAR: MAKE 2
Use Black yarn:
• Row 1: Make 2 sc in MR (2)
• Row 2: 2 inc (4)
• Row3-5: 4 sc
• Leave the yarn long for sewing.
• Don’t fill.
• Sew the ears between the 7th and 8th rows of the head, leaving 5 sc in between.

HORNS: MAKE 2
Use Black yarn:
• Row 1: Make 5 sc in MR (5)
• Close it all with a needle.
• Leave a long yarn tail for sewing.
• Sew the horns to the head between the 6th and 7th rows.

TAIL: MAKE 2
Use Red yarn:
• Make a chain 6, work from the second chain from the hook:
• Row 1: 3 sc, inc, 1 ch, turn
• Row 2: inc, 3 sc, 1 ch, turn
• Row 3: Leave a gap 1 sc, 3 sc, inc
• Leave a long yarn tail for sewing.
• Sew the piece sideways to the tip of the tail.

WINGS: MAKE 2
Use Red yarn:
• Row 1: Make 5 sc in MR (5)
• Row 2: 5 sc (5)
• Row 3: 5 inc (10)
• Row 4: (1 sc, inc)*5 (15)
• Row 5: (2 sc, inc)*5 (20)
• Row 6: (3 sc, inc)*5 (25)
• Fold the black piece in half and crochet the edges together with sc.
• Create 2 strips in the center with black yarn.
• Sew the wings to the body on the 5th row below the neck.

SPINES: MAKE 5
Use Black yarn:
• Row 1: Make Chain 2 and make 3 sc in the 2nd chain from the hook (3)
• Close it all with a needle.

You just finished your pattern!
I hope you enjoyed making your pattern.

More Amigurumi Dragon Ideas:

Materials
• Himalayan dolphin baby yarn or equivalent, 1 skein of main color and some extra;
• 14 mm safety eyes;
• A hook convenient for you (ı have 3.5 mm);
• Filler;
• Needle for sewing details;

Abbreviations
• MR– Magic ring
• Ch– Chain
• Slst– Slip stitch
• B.l– Bias loop
• Sc– Single crochet
• Inc– Increase
• Dec– Decrease
• Dc– Double crochet
• Hdc– Half double crochet
•Hdc-BLO – Half double crochet back loop only

Amigurumi Plush Dragon Free Pattern:

Head
ocheting with an additional color.
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3. (1sc,inc)*6 (18)
Rnd 4. (2sc,inc)*6 (24)
Rnd 5-8. 24 sc
Change color to main.
Rnd 9. 24 sc
Rnd 10. (9sc,inc)*6, 9sc (30)
Rnd 11. 4sc, inc, 1sc, inc, 2sc, (1sc,inc)*6, 2sc, inc, 1sc
Rnd 12. 40 sc
Rnd 13. 15sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 15sc, (42)
Rnd 14. 42 sc
Rnd 15. 42 sc
Rnd 16. 42 sc + B.l
Rnd 17. (5sc,dec)*6 (36)
Rnd 18. 36 sc
Rnd 19. 2sc, dec, (4sc,dec)*5, 2sc (30)
Rnd 20. (3sc,dec)*6 (24)
Rnd 21. 1sc, dec, (2sc,dec)*5, 1sc (18)
Rnd 22. (1sc,dec)*6 (12)
Rnd 23. 6 dec

Pull the hole, hide the thread.
Insert eyes between 10 and 11 side by side at the base of the first and last increase.

Tail
We crochet with the main color.

Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. 6 sc (6)
Rnd 3. (1sc,inc)*3 (9)
Rnd 4. 9 sc
Rnd 5. (2sc,inc)*3 (12)
Rnd 6. 12 sc
Rnd 7. (3sc,inc)*3 (15)
Rnd 8. 15 sc
Rnd 9. (4sc,inc)*3 (18)
Rnd 10. 18 sc
Rnd 11. (5sc,inc)*3 (21)
Rnd 12. 21 sc
Rnd 13. 8sc, inc, 2sc, inc, 2sc, inc, 6sc (24)
Rnd 14. 24 sc

Legs (Make 2)
We start crocheting with an additional color.

Rnd 1. Make 7 ch, starting from the 2nd ch from hook, inc, 4sc, inc from 3sc, (14)
Rnd 2. 2inc, 4sc, 3inc, sc, inc (20)
Rnd 3. 1sc, inc, 1sc, inc, 4sc, (1sc,inc)*3, 4sc, 1sc, inc (26)
Rnd 4. 11 sc, inc from 4 hdc, 2sc, inc from 4 hdc, 2sc, inc from 4 hdc, 8sc (35)
Add the main color and crochet for the hdc-BLO.
Rnd 5. 11 sc main color, dec from 4hdc additional color, 1sc additional color, 1sc main color, dec from 4hdc additional color, 1sc additional color, 1sc main color, dec from 4hdc additional color, 1sc additional color, 7sc main color (26)
Next crochet all the rows with the main color.
Rnd 6. 26 sc
Rnd 7. 8sc, 7dec, 4sc (19)
Rnd 8. 7sc, dec, 2sc (14)
Rnd 9. 7sc, 2dec, 3sc (12)
Rnd 10-16. 12 sc
We crochet another 2-3sc. Fold in half and crochet 6 sc.

Arms (Make 2)
We start crocheting with an additional color.
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3. (3sc,inc)*3 (15)
Rnd 4. 5sc, inc from 4hdc, 1sc, inc from 4hdc, 1sc, inc from 4hdc, 5sc, (24)
Add the main color and crochet for hdc-BLO.
Rnd 5. 5sc main color, dec from 4hdc additional color, 1sc additional color, dec from 4hdc additional color, 1sc additional color, dec from 4hdc additional color, 1sc additional color, 5sc main color (15)
Next crochet all the rows with the main color.
Rnd 6. 15 sc (15)
Rnd 7. 4sc,dec,4sc (11)
Rnd 8. 5sc,1dec,4sc (10)
Rnd 9-15. 10 sc (10)
Crochet more if necessary a few sc, fold in half and crochet 5 sc together.

Body
We crochet with the main color.

Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3. (1sc,inc)*6 (18)
Rnd 4. (inc,2sc)*6 (24)
Rnd 5. (3sc,inc)*6 (30)
Rnd 6. (4sc,inc)*6 (36)
Rnd 7. 3sc, inc, (5sc,inc)*5, 2sc (42)
Rnd 8. 42 sc
Rnd 9. 7sc, 6sc we crochet together with the leg, 15sc, 6sc with a second leg, 8sc (42)
Rnd 10-11. 42 sc
Rnd 12. (5sc,dec)*6 (36)
Rnd 13. 12sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 12sc (33)
Rnd 14. 33 sc
Rnd 15. 12sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 11sc (30)
Rnd 16-17. 30 sc
Rnd 18. (3sc,dec)*6 (24)
Rnd 19. 24 sc
Rnd 20. (2sc,dec)*6 (18)
Rnd 21. 3sc, 5sc together with the hand, 4sc, 5sc with the other hand, 1sc sl st.

Head shaping
At will, we make a muzzle tightenning.
We crochet arcs from 10 to 16 rows in the following order: fastening the thread -1sc- 1hdc- 1hdc, 1dc, 1b.l in one loop- 1hdc 1sc- slst.
We crochet the nostrills: we fix the thread, in the same loop 1sc, slst.
Mane: fasten the thread in the 15th row, 1sc- 1hdc, 1dc, 1hdc, slst.
1 hdc, 1dc, 1hdc, 1slst. Repeat from to as many times as needed.

More Amigurumi Dragon Ideas:

Abbreviations
sc – single crochet
inc – increase,
dec – decrease
hdc – half crochet
ch – chain

Amigurumi Cute Dragon Free Pattern:

Torso + Head
1 row 6 sc
2 row inc * 6 times, (12sc)
3 row (inc + 1sc) * 6 times, (18sc)
4 row (inc + 2sc) * 6 times, (24 sc)
5 row (inc + 3 sc) * 6 times, (30 sc)
6 row (inc + 4 sc) * 6 times, (36 sc)
7 row (inc + 5sc) * 6 times, (42sc)
8-11 row 42 sc (inc + 6sc) * 6 times (on the 9,10 row we fasten our eyes)
12 row (dec + 5sc) * 6 times (36 sc)
13 row 36 sc
14 row (dec + 4 sc) * 6 times (30 sc)
15 row 30 sc
16 row (dec + 3sc) * 6 times (24sc)
17 row 24 sc
18 row (dec + 2sc) * 6 times (18sc)
19 row 18 sc
20 row (dec + 7sc) * 2 times (16 sc)

21-22 row 16 sc
23 row (inc + 7 sc) * 2 times (18sc)
24 row (inc + 8 sc) * 2 times (20 sc)
25 row (inc + 9 sc) * 2 times (22 sc)
26 row (inc + 10 sc) * 2 times (24 sc)
27 row (inc + 3 sc) * 6 times (30sc)
28 row (inc + 4 sc) * 6 times (36sc)
29 row 36 sc
30 row (inc + 5sc) * 6 times (42sc)
31 row (inc + 6sc) * 6 times (48 sc)
32 row 48 sc
33 sc (inc + 8 sc) * 6 times (54 sc)
34-44 row 54 sc
45 row (dec + 7 sc) * 6 times (48 sc)
46 row (dec + 6 sc) * 6 times (42 sc)
47 row (dec + 5 sc) * 6 times (36sc)
48 row (dec + 4 sc) * 6 times (30 sc)
49 row (dec + 3 sc) * 6 times (24 sc)
50 row (dec + 2 sc) * 6 times (18 sc)
51 row (dec + 1 sc) * 6 times (12 sc)
52 row 5 dec + sl-st

Muzzle
1 row 6 sc
2 row 12 sc
3 row 18 sc
4 row 24sc
5 row 30 sc
6 row 36 sc
7 row 42 sc
8 row 48 sc
9 row (dec + 6 sc) * 6 times (42 sc)
10 row (dec + 5 sc) * 6 times (36 sc)
11 row 36 sc
12 (dec + 4 sc) * 6 times (30 sc)
13 row 30 sc
14 (dec + 3 sc) (24 sc)

Legs (2 pieces)
A thread of a different color
1 row 6 sc (Thread in a different color)
2 row 6 inc (12 sc)
3 row (inc + 1sc) * 6 times (18sc)
4 row 18 sc
5 row 18 sc (Change the thread to the main color)
6-9 row 18 sc + sl-st

Pens (2 pieces)
1 sc 6 sc
2 sc 6 inc (12 sc)
3 sc (inc + 2sc) * 4 times (16 sc)
4,5,6,7 sc 16 sc
8 sc (dec + 6 sc) * 2 times (14 sc)
9-19 sc 14 sc + sl-st

Spikes (7 pieces)
1 row 6 sc
2 row (inc + 1sc) * 3 times (9sc)
3 row 9 sc
4 row (inc + 2 sc) * 3 times (12 sc)
5 row 12 sc (sl-st)

Tail
1 row 6 sc
2 row inc * 6 times (12sc)
3 row 12 sc
4 row 12 sc
5 row (inc + 1sc) * 6 times (18sc)
6 row 18 sc
7 row 18 sc
8 row (inc + 2sc) * 6 times (24sc)
9 row 24sc

10 row 24 sc
11 row (inc + 3sc) * 6 times (30sc)
12 row 30 sc
13 row 30 sc
14 row (inc + 4 sc) * 6 times (36 sc
15 row 36 sc
16 row 36 sc
17 row (inc + 5 sc) * 6 times (42sc)
18 row 42 sc
19 row 42 sc, sl-st.
I like the next stage most of all when we select a textile insert for the belly. Of course, I select the colors in advance along with the yarn.
Ready…

More Amigurumi Dragon Ideas:

Materials
• Yarn. I knitted the main parts of the toy from plush yarn “Plush Light” with a very unusual color name “overflow of petroleum”. For knitting horns on my head (unfortunately, I don’t know what these growths on a dragon’s head are called correctly) I used a thin bobbin velor.
• Crochet hook. For knitting with Plush Light yarn, I used hook No. 2, for velor – No. 1.25.
• Filler for soft toys.
• Cotter pins, if you decide to attach the parts of the toy using cotter pins.
• Eyes. I used eyes for toys with a diameter of 5 mm.
• Wool for felting beige and white.
• Needle for felting thin twisted No. 40.
• Threads in tone yarn for sewing details.
• A long needle for sewing soft toys.

Abbreviations:
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
st = stitch
inc = increase (2 sc in one st)
dec = decrease (2 sc together)
dc inc = 2 dc in one st
sl st = slip stitch

Amigurumi Velvet Dragon Free Pattern:

Head
1 row: we collect a chain of 5 air loops (hereinafter – ch). Next, we begin to tie the chain, starting with the second from the loop hook. 1 increase, 2 single crochet (hereinafter – sc), 2 increments in one loop at the end of the chain. Then we knit on the other side of the chain: 2 sc, 1 increase (12).
2 row: repeat (1 increase, 1 sc) 6 times (18).
3 row: repeat (1 increase, 2 sc) 6 times (24).
4-5 rows: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (24).
6 row: we knit 1 sc to align the knitting, then we knit 3 sc, 6 increments, 15 sc (30).
The location of the increase on the dragon’s face is shown in the photo.
7 row: 3 sc, (1 increase, 1 sc) – repeat 6 times, 15 sc (36).
8 row: (5 sc, 1 increase) – repeat 6 times (42).
9 row: (6 sc, 1 increase) – 6 times (48).
10-14 rows: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (48).
15 row: repeat (6 sc, decrease) 6 times (42).
16 row: repeat (5 sc, decrease) 6 times (36).
17 row: repeat (4 sc, decrease) 6 times (30).

We fill the dragon’s head with filler in the area of the muzzle. We fix the cotter pin between 12 and 13 rows.
18 row: repeat (3 sc, decrease) 6 times (24).
19 row: repeat (2 sc, decrease) 6 times (18).
We stuff the connected part of the dragon’s head.
20 row: repeat (1 sc, decrease) 6 times (12).
21 row: decrease until the hole is completely closed.
Knitting the nostrils for the dragon (2 parts).
We type 4 ch and, starting from the second loop from the hook, we knit 3 sc on one side of the chain.

Muzzle
After we have tied the head and nostrils for the dragon, we can proceed to the design of the muzzle of the toy. To begin, let’s choose the position of the eye. This is a very important point when creating a toy. I will use 5 mm diameter sewing eyes with an eyelet. The shape of these eyes resemble mushrooms.
Along with sewing the eye, we will make the muzzle tightening.
Choosing the position of the eye with the needles, it is better to place them a little further apart, since when pulling together they will slightly change the position, become closer.
We fix the thread in the cotter pin area and put the needle in the place where the eye will be located. It is better for this purpose to use a long needle for sewing soft toys.
We put the eye on the needle, then again insert the needle into the head and bring it to the area of attachment of the second eye.
We put our eyes on the needle and pierce the head of the toy again, returning to the first eye. We are tightening. Repeat this operation several times.

Arms
1st row: dial 2 ch and knit 6 sc into the second loop from the hook (6).
2 row: repeat (1 increase) 6 times (12).
3 row: repeat (3 sc, 1 increase) 3 times (15).
4-5 rows: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (15).
6 row: 3 decreases, 9 sc (12).
7-8 rows: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (12).
9 row: 1 sc, 2 decreases, 7 sc (10).
10-11 rows: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (10).
After knitting 11 rows, we fill the lower part of the dragon’s paw. We will not stuff the upper part of the foot.
12 row: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (10).
We fix the cotter pin between 11 and 12 rows. Note that where we knitted the decreases – this is the front of the knitted dragon’s paw.
13 row: we knit decreases until the hole is completely closed.

Legs
1st row: dial 2 ch and knit 6 sc into the second loop from the hook (6).
2 row: repeat (1 increase) 6 times (12).
3 row: repeat (1 increase, 1 sc) 6 times (18).
4 row: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (18).
5 row: 7 sc, 2 decrease, 7 sc (16).
6 row: 6 sc, 2 decreases, 6 sc (14).
7-8 rows: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (14).
9 row: 6 sc, 2 increments, 6 sc (16).
10 row: 7 sc, 2 increments, 7 sc (18).
11-13 rows: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (18).
Stuff the connected part of the foot.
14 row: (1 sc, 1 decrease) – repeat 6 times (12).
We stuff the part, fix the cotter pin between 13 and 14 rows.
15 row: decrease until the hole is completely closed.

Torso
1st row: dial 2 ch and knit 6 sc into the second loop from the hook (6).
2 row: repeat (1 increase) 6 times (12).
3 row: repeat (1 increase, 1 sc) 6 times (18).
4th row: repeat (1 increase, 2 sc) 6 times (24).
5-9 rows: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (24).
10 row: repeat (1 increase, 3 sc) 6 times (30).
11 row: repeat (1 increase, 4 sc) 6 times (36).
We fix the upper legs of the dragon between the 7th and 8th rows.
12 row: 12 sc, (1 sc, 1 increase) – repeat 6 times, 12 sc (42).
13-14 rows: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (42).
15 row: repeat (1 increase, 4 sc) 6 times (48).
16-20 rows: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (48).
21 row: repeat (6 sc, 1 decrease) 6 times (42).
22 row: repeat (5 sc, 1 decrease) 6 times (36).
23 row: repeat (4 sc, 1 decrease) 6 times (30).
24 row: repeat (3 sc, 1 decrease) 6 times (24).
We fix the legs of a knitted dragon between 22 and 23 rows.
25 row: repeat (2 sc, 1 decrease) 6 times (18).
26 row: repeat (1 sc, 1 decrease) 6 times (12).
27 row: we crochet a decrease until the hole is completely closed.

Tail
1st row: dial 2 ch and knit 6 sc into the second loop from the hook (6).
2 row: repeat (1 sc, 1 increase) 3 times (9).
3 row: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (9).
4th row: repeat (2 sc, 1 increase) 3 times (12).
5 row: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (12).
6 row: 4 sc, 4 increases, 4 sc (16).
7 row: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (16).
8 row: 4 sc, (1 sc, 1 increase) – repeat 4 times, 4 sc (20).
9-10 rows: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (20).
11 row: 4 sc, (2 sc, 1 increase) – repeat 4 times, 4 sc (24).
12 row: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (24).
We knit the connecting column in the last loop and finish knitting the tail for the dragon.

Horns
We will knit horns (or growths on the dragon’s head) from bobbin velor (it is thinner than plush yarn) using a hook No. 1.25.
The very first horn on the dragon’s head, which is located on the forehead, is slightly smaller than the rest. Such a small horn, we need to tie only one. It fits in this way:
1st row: dial 2 ch and knit 6 sc into the second loop from the hook (6).
2 row: repeat (1 sc, 1 increase) 3 times (9).
3 row: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (9).
4th row: repeat (2 sc, 1 increase) 3 times (12).
Big horns 6 pieces. In order to connect them, it is necessary to tie a small horn (all 4 rows), and then, without tearing off the working thread, proceed to knitting the 5th row:
5 row: repeat (3 sc, 1 increase) 3 times (15).
Sewing horns to the dragon’s head, I advise this: firstly, the horns must be secured with a pin so that the part of the toy does not accidentally shift during sewing. And secondly, for sewing on these small parts it is better to use a regular thread in tone yarn horns and a needle for sewing. Sewing details with plush or velor yarn is extremely difficult.

Wings and Ears
The wings and ears for the dragon fit in one pattern.
1 row: we collect 6 ch Starting from the second loop from the hook, we knit: 2 sc, 3 sc in one loop, 2 sc (7). Expand knitting.
2 row: 3 sc, 3 sc in one loop, 3 sc (9). Expand knitting.
3 row: 4 sc, 3 sc in one loop, 4 sc (11). Finish knitting parts.
Claws on paws, stripes on the tummy, eyebrows and eyes of the dragon are made using the technique of dry felting.

More Amigurumi Dragon Ideas:

Materials
• 3mm hook
• eyes 12 mm
• filler
• Yarn of blue color – 135 g, yellow – 23 g, green – 15 g
• The height of the finished toy is 37.5 cm

Abbreviations
slst – slip stitch
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
inc – increase
dec – decrease

Amigurumi Cute Dragon Free Pattern:

Muzzle
1. dial 8 ch + 2 ch lift. From the 3rd loop 7 sc, inc to the last, on the other side 7 sc and 2 sc to the last (18 sc)
2.inc, 6 sc, 3 inc, 6, 2 inc (24)
3. inc, 8, 4 inc, 8, 3 inc (32)
4. inc, 10, inc, 4, inc, 10, inc, 4 (36)
5-6. (36)
7. (5, inc) x6 (42)
8. (42)
9. (6, inc) x6 (48)
10. (7, inc) x6 (54)
11. (54)
12. (7, dec) x6 (48)
13. (6, dec) x6 (42)
Note: if you find the muzzle too large, you can only knit up to 48 loops, then the 10th row (48), 11-12 (42)

Body + Head
1.6 sc per ring
2. incx6 (12)
3. (1, inc) x6 (18)
4. (2, inc) x6 (24)
5. (3, inc) x6 (30)
6. (4, inc) x6 (36)
7. (5, inc) x6 (42)
8. (6, inc) x6 (48)
9. (7, inc) x6 (54)
10. (8, inc) x6 (60)
11. (9, inc) x6 (66)
12. (21, inc) x3 (69)
13-20. (69)
21. (21, dec) x3 (66)
22-27. (66)
28. (9, dec) x6 (60)
29-32. (60)
33. (8, dec) x6 (54)
34. (54)
35. (7, dec) x6 (48)
36-37. (48)
38. (6, dec) x6 (42)
39-40. (42)
41. (5, dec) x6 (36)
42. (36)
43. (4, dec) x6 (30)

44-61. (thirty)
62. (4, inc) x6 (36)
63. (5, inc) x6 (42)
64. (6, inc) x6 (48)
65. (7, inc) x6 (54)
66-79. (54)
80. (7, dec) x6 (48)
81-82. (48)
83. (6, dec) x6 (42)
84. (5, dec) x6 (36)
Insert eyes
85. (4, dec) x6 (30)
86. (3, dec) x6 (24)
87. (2, dec) x6 (18)
88. (1, dec) x6 (12)
89. decx6 (6)

Tail
1.6 sc per ring
2. (1, inc) x3 (9)
3. (2, inc) x3 (12)
4. (3, inc) x3 (15)
5. (4, inc) x3 (18)
6. (5, inc) x3 (21)
7. (6, inc) x3 (24)
8. (7, inc) x3 (27)
9. (8, inc) x3 (30)
10. (9, inc) x3 (33)
11. (10, inc) x3 (36)
12. (11, inc) x3 (39)
13. (12, inc) x3 (42)
14. (13, inc) x3 (45)
15. (14, inc) x3 (48)
16. (15, inc) x3 (51)
17. (16, inc) x3 (54)
18. (17, inc) x3 (57)
19. (18, inc) x3 (60)
20. (19, inc) x3 (63)
21. (20, inc) x3 (66)
22. (21, inc) x3 (69)
23. (22, inc) x3 (72)
24. (23, inc) x3 (75)
25. (24, inc) x3 (78)
26-27. (78)

Spikes
Small 3 pcs
1.4 sc to the ring
2. incx (8)
3. (3, inc) x2 (10)
Large 9 pcs
1.4 sc to the ring
2. incx (8)
3. (3, inc) x2 (10)
4. (4, inc) x2 (12)

Hands
Fingers (3 pcs)
1.6 in the ring
2-3. (6)
Connect them.
4.3 sc on the first, 3 on the second, 6 sc on the third, 3 on the second and 3 sc on the first finger (18)
5-8. (eighteen)
9. (4, dec) x3 (15)
10. (3, dec) x3 (12)
11. (4, dec) x2 (10)
12-30. (10)
Insert the wire, fill.
31.5xdec (5)
32. tighten the hole

Feet
Knit 3 fingers:
1.6 in the ring
2. incx6 (12)
3-7. (12)
8. Connect: 6 on the first, 6 on the 2nd, 12 on the 3rd, again 6 on the 2nd and 6 sc on the first finger (36)
9. (36)
10. (4, dec) x6 (30)
11-14. (thirty)
15. (8, dec) x3 (27)
16-18. (27)
19. (7, dec) x3 (24)
20. (24)
21. (6, dec) x3 (21)
22. (21)
23. (5, dec) x3 (18)
24. (1, dec) x6 (12)
25. decx6 (6)
26. tighten the hole

Feet
1. dial 18 ch and close in a ring
2-8. (18 sc)
9. (5, inc) x3 (21)
10. (21)
11. (6, inc) x3 (24)
12. (3, inc) x6 (30)
13. (4, inc) x6 (36)
14. (36)
15. (5, inc) x6 (42)
16. dec, 33 sc, dec. Leave 5 sc untied (35)
Now we knit in rotary rows, at the beginning of each we do ch
17. dec, 31, dec (33)
18. dec, 29, dec (31)
19. dec, 27, dec (29)
20. dec, 25, dec (27)
21. dec, 23, dec (25)
22. dec, 21, dec (23)
23. dec, 19, dec (21)
24. dec, 17, dec (19)
25. dec, 15, dec (17)
26. dec, 13, dec (15)
27. dec, 11, dec (13)
28. dec, 9, dec (11)
29. dec, 8, dec (9)

Wings
Outer part
1.6 sc per ring
2-11. (6)
12.5, inc (7)
13-31. (7)
Inner part, knit in rotary rows and at the beginning of each 1 ch
1. dial 3 sc
2.From the 2nd to 2nd inc (4)
3.1.2 inc, 1 (6)
4. (6)
5.2.2 inc, 2 (8)
6. (8)
7.3, 2 inc, 3 (10)
8. (10)
9.4, 2 inc, 4 (12)
10. (12)
11.5, 2 inc, 5 (14)
12. (14)
13. sl-st, sc, 2 dc in one loop, sc, sl-st, sc, 2 dc in one loop, sc, sl-st, sc, 2 dc in one loop, sc

Abdomen
Knit in rotary rows, at the beginning of each dial 1 ch. In blue, rows 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45
1. Dial 7 + 1 ch
2. (7)
3. inc, 5, inc (9)
4-5. (9)
6. inc, 7, inc (11)
7-9. (eleven)
10. inc, 9, inc (13)
11-12. (thirteen)
13. inc, 11, inc (15)
14. (15)
15. inc, 13, inc (17)
16. (17)
17. inc, 15, inc (19)
18. inc, 17, inc (21)
19. inc, 19, inc (23)
20-28. (23)
29. dec, 19, dec (21)
30-31. (21)
32. dec, 17, dec (19)
33-34. (nineteen)
35. dec, 15, dec (17)
36. (17)
37. dec, 13, dec (15)
38. dec, 11, dec (13)
39. dec, 9, dec (11)
40-42. (eleven)
43. dec, 7, dec (9)
44. (9)
45. dec, 5, dec (7)
46-47. (7)
48. dec, 3, dec (5)
49. dec, 1, dec (3)

More Amigurumi Dragon Ideas:

Materials:
– 2.50 mm crochet hook (US C)
– 100 % cotton yarn for a 2,5 mm hook (8/6)
– A pair of safety eyes of 8 cm
– Polyfiber fill for stuffing
– Tapestry needle

Colors:
– One main color for the body (I used lime green).
– One color for the spikes (I used coral pink).
– One color for wings (I used creamy white).
– A tiny bit of pink yarn to embroider the cheeks.

Abbreviations (US Terms):
st = stitch
ch = chain stitch
sc = single crochet

Amigurumi Odile the Dragon Free Pattern:

Leg 1
{Using lime green…}
1. Magic ring of 6 sc
2. Crochet *2 sc in each st*, repeat * (12)
3. Only through back loops, crochet 12 sc
4. to 10. Crochet 12 sc
Close, break the yarn and weave in ends. Set aside.

Leg 2 + Body
{Using lime green…}
1. Magic ring of 6 sc
2. Crochet *2 sc in each st*, repeat * (12)
3. Only through back loops, crochet 12 sc
4. to 10. Crochet 12 sc
Don’t break the yarn! We will now start with the body…
11. With leg 2 still on your hook, chain 6 ch stitches and join leg 1 with 1 sc. Crochet 11 further sc along leg 1, and then crochet 6 sc on one of the sides of the 6-ch chain. Now crochet 12 sc along leg 2 and, finally, 6 sc along the other side of the 6-ch chain. Total stitches: 36 sc 
12. Crochet *5 sc, 2 sc in the next st (increase)*, repeat * (42)
13. to 21. Crochet 42 sc
22. Crochet *5 sc, one decrease*, repeat * (36)
23. to 25. Crochet 36 sc
{Start stuffing the body and continue doing so as you crochet…}
26. Crochet *4 sc, one decrease*, repeat * (30)
27. to 29. Crochet 30 sc
30. Crochet *3 sc, one decrease*, repeat * (24)
31. to 33. Crochet 24 sc
34. Crochet *2 sc, one decrease*, repeat *  (18)
35. to 51. Crochet 18 sc
52. Press the opening with your fingers to flatten it and crochet together, with sc, both opposing sides, to
closet the opening (9 sc)
Close and break the yarn, leaving a long tail to sew the body to the head.

Head
{Using lime green…}
1. Magic ring of 6 sc
2. Crochet *2 sc in each st*, repeat * (12)
3. Crochet *2 sc in each st*, repeat * (24)
4. Crochet *3 sc, 2 sc in the next st (increase)*, repeat * (30)
5. Crochet *4 sc, 2 sc in the next st (increase)*, repeat * (36)
6. Crochet *5 sc, 2 sc in the next st (increase)*, repeat * (42)
7. to 13. Crochet 42 sc
14. Crochet *5 sc, one decrease*, repeat * (36)
15. to 21. Crochet 36 sc
{Place the safety eyes between rounds 13 and 14. The distance between the eyes is 8 stitches. Embroider the cheeks with a bit of pink yarn…}
22. Crochet *4 sc, one decrease*, repeat * (30)
23. Crochet 30 sc
24. Crochet *3 sc, one decrease*, repeat * (24)
25. Crochet *2 sc, one decrease*, repeat * (18)
{Stuff firmly.}
26. Crochet *1 sc, one decrease*, repeat * (12)
27. Crochet 6 decreases (6)
Close, break the yarn and weave in ends.

Ears
{Make two, using lime green…}
1. Make 2 chain stitches. Crochet 4 sc in the second chain from hook.
2. Crochet *2 sc in each stitch*, repeat * (8)
3. Crochet 8 sc
4. Crochet *1 sc, 2 sc in the next st (increase)*, repeat * (12)
5. to 7. Crochet 12 sc
8. Press the opening with your fingers to flatten it and crochet together, with sc, both opposing sides, to
close the opening (6 sc)
Close and break the yarn, leaving a long tail to sew to head.

Arms
{Make two, using lime green…}
1. Make 2 chain stitches. Crochet 4 sc in the second chain from hook.
2. Crochet *2 sc in each stitch*, repeat * (8)
3. to 17. Crochet 8 sc
{No need to stuff the arms…}
18. Press the opening with your fingers and single crochet together both opposing sides (4 sc).
Close. Break the yarn and leave a long tail to sew arms to body.

Tail
{Using lime green…}
1. Leaving a long initial tail, make 2 chain stitches. Crochet 4 sc in the second chain from hook.
2. Crochet *2 sc in each stitch*, repeat * (8)
3. to 23. Crochet 8 sc
{No need to stuff the tail…}
24. Press the opening with your fingers and single crochet together both opposing sides (4 sc).
Close. Break the yarn and leave a long tail to sew the tail to the body.

Tip of the tail
{Using lime green…}
1. Magic ring of 6 sc
2. Crochet 6 sc
3. Crochet *2 sc in each st*, repeat * (12)
4. and 5. Crochet 12 sc
{No need to stuff the tip…}
6. Crochet *1 sc, 2 sc in the next st (increase)*, repeat * (18)
7. and 8. Crochet 18 sc
9. Press the opening with your fingers and single crochet together both opposing sides (9 sc).
Close. Break the yarn and leave a long tail to sew the tip to the tail.

Wings
{Make 2, using creamy white…}
1. Magic ring of 6 sc
2. Crochet 6 sc
3. Crochet *2 sc in each st*, repeat * (12)
4. Crochet 12 sc
{No need to stuff the wings…}
5. Crochet *1 sc, 2 sc in the next st (increase)*, repeat * (18)
6. Crochet 18 sc
7. Crochet *2 sc, 2 sc in the next st (increase)*, repeat * (24)
8. Crochet 24 sc
9. Crochet *3 sc, 2 sc in the next st (increase)*, repeat * (30)
10. Crochet 30 sc
11. Press the opening with your fingers and crochet the following stitches joining both opposing sides at the same time: 5 sc, 1 picot stitch on top of the previous stitch (see below), 5 sc, another picot stitch on top of the previous stitch, 5 sc
Close, break the yarn and weave in ends.

Picot stitch = chain 3. Then crochet one sc on the first of those stitches (third chain from hook). Continue with the following stitches.

Spikes
{Make 6, using coral pink…}
1. Make 2 chain stitches. Crochet 4 sc in the second chain from hook.
2. Crochet *2 sc in each stitch*, repeat * (8)
3. Crochet *1 sc, 2 sc in the next st (increase)*, repeat * (12)
{No need to stuff the spike…}
4. Press the opening with your fingers to flatten it and single crochet together both opposing sides (6 sc).
Close. Break the yarn and leave a long tail to sew to the body.

Assembly
– Curve the ears and sew them to the head.
– With a bit of lime green yarn, embroider the nostrils.
– Sew the arms to the sides of the body.
– Sew the tip to the flat edge of the tail and sew the other end of the tail to the body. I used the little tail from the initial 2 chain stitches.
– Sew the wings to Odile’s back.
– Embroider 4 straight lines to Odile’s belly using white cream yarn.
– Sew the 6 spikes to Odile`s back, starting on her forehead all the way up to her tail.

More Amigurumi Dragon Ideas:

Materials:
Approx 35g double knitting weight yarn, of whichever colour or
colours you wish to use for your dragon.
Small amount of cream/beige yarn to sew claws.
Stuffing.
1 pair 7.5 mm safety eyes or beads of a similar size for eyes (or you
can embroider the eyes, so a small amount of yarn to do that).
Tapestry needle.
3.5mm hook (US E hook).
Finished size: approximately 28cm/11” nose to tip of tail, 20cm/8″
wingspan.
Abbreviations:
ch = chain
st = stitch or stitches
ss = slip stitch
sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (UK)
hdc = half double crochet (US), half treble crochet (UK)
dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (UK)
fpsc = front post single crochet
fphdc = front post half double crochet
fpdc = front post double crochet
tog = together
sc2tog = decrease by working two sc together
YOH = Yarn over hook
FO = fasten off
Special stitch instructions:
Fpsc, fphdc or fpdc: work stitch (sc, hdc or dc) by putting your hook
from right to left around the back of the post of the next stitch on
the previous row. This will create a ridge on the other side of your
work.
Notes:
This dragon is made mostly in rounds, although the wings are made
in rows. Do not join rounds unless told to, use a stitch marker to
mark the start of a round – a small piece of different coloured yarn
placed under the stitch at the start of the round will do. To start a
round, you can use the magic ring method, but I prefer (ch2, work
6 sc into 1st ch). If you work the 6 sc over the tail of yarn as well
you can use that to pull the hole tight.
Stuff the body as you go along, not too tightly so that the dragon
can bend its neck and tail.

Fierce Little Dragon Amigurumi Pattern

Nostrils (make 2):
Ch2, work 8 sc into 1st ch, join round with a ss into the first sc – 8
st.
FO one of them leaving a length of yarn.
Do not FO the second nostril. To join them together sc into the 1st
stitch after the ss on the first nostril, sc into next 7 st. Sc into the
1st stitch after the ss on the second nostril, sc into next 7 st. You
now have the start of the nose with 16 st. Use the length of yarn to
sew up the gap between the two parts.

Body (continue from nose):
Round 1: Sc in each st around – 16 st.
Round 2: [Sc2tog, sc in next 6 st] 2 times – 14 st.
Round 3: Sc in each st around – 14 st.
Round 4: [Sc2tog, sc in next 5 st] 2 times – 12 st.
Round 5 – 6: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 12 st.
Round 7: Sc in next 5 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next
st, sc in next 4 st – 14 st.
Round 8 – 10: (3 rounds) Sc in each st around – 14 st.
If using safety eyes, fit now between round 8 and 9 on either side
of the head.
Round 11: Sc in next 6 st, sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog, sc in next
3 st – 12 st.
Round 12: Sc in next st, sc2tog, sc in next 4 st, sc2tog, sc in next
3 st – 10 st.
Round 13 – 17: (5 rounds) Sc in each st around – 10 st.
Round 18: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st] 2 times – 12 st.
Round 19 – 20: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 12 st.
Round 21: Sc in next 3 st, [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times,
sc in next 3 st – 15 st.
Round 22: Sc in next 3 st, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] 3 times,
sc in next 3 st – 18 st.
Round 23: Sc in each st around – 18 st.
Round 24: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] 6 times – 24 st.
Round 25 – 26: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 24 st.
Round 27: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st] 4 times – 28 st.
Round 28 – 31: (4 rounds) Sc in each st around – 28 st.
Round 32: [Sc2tog, sc in next 5 st] 4 times – 24 st.
Round 33: Sc in each st around – 24 st.
Round 34: [Sc2tog, sc in next 4 st] 4 times – 20 st.
Round 35: Sc in each st around – 20 st.
Round 36: [Sc2tog, sc in next 3 st] 4 times – 16 st.
Round 37: Sc in each st around – 16 st.
Round 38: [Sc2tog, sc in next 6 st] 2 times – 14 st.
Round 39: Sc in each st around – 14 st.
Round 40: [Sc2tog, sc in next 5 st] 2 times – 12 st.
Round 41 – 50: (10 rounds) Sc in each st around – 12 st.
Round 51: Sc2tog, sc in next 10 st – 11 st.
Round 52 – 53: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 11 st.
Round 54: Sc2tog, sc in next 9 st – 10 st.
Round 55 – 56: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 10 st.
Round 57: Sc2tog, sc in next 8 st – 9 st.
Round 58 – 59: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 9 st.
Round 60: Sc2tog, sc in next 7 st – 8 st.
Round 61 – 63: (3 rounds) Sc in each st around – 8 st.
Round 64: Sc2tog, sc in next 6 st – 7 st.
Round 65 – 73: (9 rounds) Sc in each st around – 7 st.
Round 74: Sc2tog, sc in next 5 st – 6 st.
Round 75 – 76: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 6 st.
FO, finish stuffing and sew up end of tail.

Back Legs (make 2):
Stuff as you go along.
Round 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc into 1st ch – 6 st.
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around – 12 st.
Round 3 – 5: (3 rounds) Sc in each st around – 12 st.
Round 6: Sc in next 6 st, [sc2tog] 3 times – 9 st.
Round 7 – 8: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 9 st.
Round 9: Sc in next 6 st, [2 sc in next st] 3 times – 12 st.
Round 10: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 6 times – 18 st.
Round 11 – 12: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 18 st.
Round 13: Sc in next 3 st, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in next 5 st,
[sc2tog] 2 times, sc in next 2 st – 14 st.
Round 14: Sc in next 2 st, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in next 3 st,
[sc2tog] 2 times, sc in next st – 10 st.
Round 15: [Sc2tog] 5 times – 5 st.
FO, leaving a length of yarn.
Finish stuffing, then use cream/beige yarn to sew claws. Sew up top
of leg.
Front Legs (make 2):
Stuff as you go along.
Round 1: Ch 2, work 5 sc into 1st ch – 5 st.
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around – 10 st.
Round 3 – 5: (3 rounds) Sc in each st around – 10 st.
Round 6: Sc in next 6 st, [sc2tog] 2 times – 8 st.
Round 7 – 12: (6 rounds) Sc in each st around – 8 st.
Round 13: [Sc2tog, sc in next 2 st] 2 times – 6 st.
FO, leaving a length of yarn.
Finish stuffing, then use cream/beige yarn to sew claws. Sew up top
of leg.
Spikes on back:
Small – ch 3, sc into 2nd ch from hook, hdc into 3rd ch from hook,
ch1.
Large – ch 3, sc into 2nd ch from hook, YOH, hook into next ch, YOH
and pull through st, YOH, pull through 2 loops, YOH, into same st,
YOH and pull through st, YOH and through all loops on hook, ch1.
You make the spikes continuously.
Work 3 small, 10 large, 3 small, ch 2, sc into 2nd ch from hook, ch
1, FO. Leave a length of yarn to sew to the body. Depending on the
length of your dragon you may need to adjust the number of spikes
you make to fit along your dragon’s back from behind the eyes to
the tip of the tail.

Wings (make 2):
Ch 20.
Row 1: Miss 1st ch, sc in next 7 ch, hdc in next 6 ch, dc in next 6
ch, ch 2, turn.
Row 2: Fpdc in next 6 st, fphdc in next 6 st, fpsc in next 7 st, ch 1,
turn.
Row 3: Fpsc in next 7 st, hdc in next 6 st, dc in next 6 st, ch 3,
turn.
Row 4: Miss 1st ch, ss in next ch, sc in next ch (to make claws),
fpdc in next 6 st, fphdc in next 6 st, fpsc in next 7 st, ch 1, turn.
Row 5: Fpsc in next 7 st, hdc in next 6 st, dc in next 6 st, ch 2,
turn.
Row 6: Fpdc in next 6 st, fphdc in next 6 st, fpsc in next 7 st, ch 1,
turn.
Row 7: Fpsc in next 7 st, hdc in next 6 st, dc in next 6 st, ch 3,
turn.
Row 8: Miss 1st ch, ss in next ch, sc in next ch, fpdc in next 6 st,
fphdc in next 6 st, fpsc in next 7 st, ch 1, turn.
Row 9: Fpsc in next 7 st, hdc in next 6 st, dc in next 6 st, ch 2,
turn.
Row 10: Fpdc in next 6 st, fphdc in next 6 st, fpsc in next 7 st, ch
1, turn.
Row 11: Fpsc in next 7 st, hdc in next 6 st, dc in next 6 st, ch 3,
turn.
Row 12: Miss 1st ch, ss in next ch, sc in next ch, fpdc in next 6 st,
fphdc in next 6 st, fpsc in next 7 st.
Sc into every other row along the base of the wing – 6 st.
Ss along the back of the original ch (19 st) until you get to the tip of
the wing. Make claw – ch 3, turn, miss 1st ch, ss in next ch, sc in
next ch. FO leaving a good length of yarn. Use this to secure the
last claw to the rest of the wing, then take yarn through wing to its
base, ready to sew onto body. Weave in ends.

Ears (make 2):
Ch 6, turn.
Skip 1st st, sc, dc, sc, ss. Leave the last ch and ss into the back of
the previous 4 st. FO, leaving a length of yarn.
Completing your dragon:

All the body parts ready to be assembled – the wing on the left shows the
top and the wing on the right shows the ridged underside.
Sew the spikes along the back from just behind the ears to the tip
of the tail. Take your time to make sure they are straight and in the
exact middle of the back. This will be helpful when you try to
position the wings and the legs.
If you haven’t used safety eyes, embroider eyes or sew on beads
for eyes. Embroider a roughly diamond shape in a contrasting
colour, then use black for the pupils so they look a bit like cat’s
eyes.
Sew the ears onto head above eyes, going over the last chain
several times to create the brow bone shape. Weave in any ends

Sew the legs on in the positions shown.
Sew on the wings a little distance from either side of the spikes with
the front edge about level with the front legs. The ridged side
should be the underside of the wings.

Your fierce little dragon is all finished now!
Pattern copyright Lucy Collin 2011. All rights reserved. This is a free
pattern of my design so share as you like, but do not sell it. If you
sell products made from this pattern, please credit Lucy
Collin/LucyRavenscar as the designer.