The finished dinosaur has a gentle, realistic silhouette while keeping a child-friendly and playful look, making it perfect as a handmade gift, nursery decor, or collectible amigurumi animal.

Project Details

• Skill Level: Intermediate
• Finished Size: Approx. 16–18 cm (6–7 inches)
• Construction: Separate parts, sewn together
• Style: Realistic / Soft sculpted amigurumi

Materials

• Yarn:
  • Sport / Fingering weight yarn (cotton or cotton-blend recommended)
  • Main color (dinosaur body)
  • Contrast color (belly & details)
• Crochet Hook: 1.75 – 2.25 mm (adjust for tight stitches)
• Safety Eyes: 8–10 mm
• Fiberfill stuffing
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors
• Stitch marker
• Embroidery thread (black or dark brown for face details)
• Sewing pins

Abbreviations (US Terms)

• MR – magic ring
• sc – single crochet
• inc – increase (2 sc in one stitch)
• dec – decrease (single crochet 2 stitches together)
• sl st – slip stitch
• ch – chain
• (…) – repeat instructions inside brackets
• – total stitches at end of round

Work in continuous rounds unless stated otherwise.

PATTERN

Head & Body (Worked as One Piece)

R1: 6 sc in MR [6]
R2: inc × 6 [12]
R3: (sc, inc) × 6 [18]
R4: (2 sc, inc) × 6 [24]
R5: (3 sc, inc) × 6 [30]
R6: (4 sc, inc) × 6 [36]
R7: (5 sc, inc) × 6 [42]
R8–R11: sc around [42]

Insert safety eyes between R9–R10, about 7–8 stitches apart.

R12: (5 sc, dec) × 6 [36]
R13: sc around [36]
R14: (4 sc, dec) × 6 [30]
R15: sc around [30]
R16: (3 sc, dec) × 6 [24]
R17: sc around [24]
R18: (2 sc, dec) × 6 [18]
R19: sc around [18]

Begin stuffing firmly.

R20: (1 sc, dec) × 6 [12]
R21: dec × 6 [6]
Fasten off and close opening.

Muzzle

R1: 6 sc in MR [6]
R2: inc × 6 [12]
R3: (sc, inc) × 6 [18]
R4: (2 sc, inc) × 6 [24]
R5: (3 sc, inc) × 6 [30]
R6: sc around [30]

Stuff lightly, flatten slightly, and sew to the front of the head. Embroider nostrils.

Legs (Make 2)

R1: 6 sc in MR [6]
R2: inc × 6 [12]
R3: (sc, inc) × 6 [18]
R4: sc around [18]
R5–R8: sc around [18]

Stuff lightly. Flatten opening and sew to the lower body.

Arms (Make 2)

R1: 6 sc in MR [6]
R2: inc × 6 [12]
R3: (2 sc, inc) × 4 [16]
R4–R7: sc around [16]
R8: (6 sc, dec) × 2 [14]
R9–R16: sc around [14]

Do not overstuff. Sew to sides of body.

Tail

R1: 6 sc in MR [6]
R2: inc × 6 [12]
R3: sc around [12]
R4: (sc, inc) × 6 [18]
R5–R6: sc around [18]
R7: (2 sc, inc) × 6 [24]
R8–R9: sc around [24]

Stuff lightly, taper naturally, and sew to back of body.

Spikes (Make 6–8)

R1: 6 sc in MR [6]
R2: (sc, inc) × 3 [9]
R3: sc around [9]
Fasten off, leave tail for sewing.

Attach spikes from head down the back to the tail.

Belly Patch

R1: 6 sc in MR [6]
R2: inc × 6 [12]
R3: (sc, inc) × 6 [18]
R4: (2 sc, inc) × 6 [24]

Sew to the front underside of the body.

Assembly & Finishing

• Sew muzzle securely and shape gently.
• Attach arms, legs, and tail evenly.
• Sew spikes along the spine.
• Embroider eyebrows and small facial details for expression.
• Check balance and adjust stuffing if needed.

Final Notes

This realistic amigurumi dinosaur combines smooth shaping with soft textures, making it both visually appealing and pleasant to hold. By adjusting yarn colors, you can create endless variations—from classic green dinosaurs to pastel nursery styles.

Perfect for children, collectors, and handmade gift lovers.

Happy Crocheting! 🦖

Pattern created for amigurumi.badoomobile.net

Copyright Notice

This crochet pattern is an original design created by amigurumi.badoomobile.net. All construction methods, stitch sequences, shaping logic, and written instructions are independently developed. © 2026 amigurumi.badoomobile.net. All photos and visual content are the property of amigurumi.badoomobile.net. This pattern is provided for personal use only. You may sell finished handmade items made from this pattern in small quantities. You may not reproduce, resell, translate, redistribute, upload, or claim this pattern or any part of it as your own on any platform. Any unauthorized use, duplication, or distribution will result in DMCA takedown notices and may lead to further legal action.

🎨 Finished Realistic Amigurumi Dinosaur – Color Variations and Accesories

Materials You Need to Make This Free Triceratops Amigurumi Pattern
– Worsted-weight yarn (4-ply) in green and cream. (The U.K. equivalent is Aran, and AUS/NZ is 8 ply.) For my triceratops, I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in the colors “Mid Green” and “Ivory”.
– G (4 mm) crochet hook
– 12 mm black safety eyes
– Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice) 
– Bent tip tapestry needle
– Scissors 
– Stitch marker 
– Straight pins

Abbreviation Key
Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.

sc – single crochet
st/sts – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch
dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
trc – triple crochet
BLO – back loops only
R1 – round 1
rep – repeat
** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.

Amigurumi Crochet Dinosaur Triceratops Free Pattern:

Head (using green yarn)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 6 (6 sts)
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7: *sc 5, inc* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R8-9: sc in all 42 sts (2 rounds total at 42 sts each)
R10: *sc 6, inc* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R11-15: sc in all 48 sts (5 rounds total at 48 sts each)
R16: *sc 7, inc* rep 6 times (54 sts)
R17: sc in all 54 sts (54 sts)
R18: *sc 7, dec* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R19: *sc 6, dec* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R20: *sc 5, dec* rep 6 times (36 sts)

Adding the Eyes
Insert your 12 mm eyes between R16 & 17 of the head spaced 13 sts apart (Hint: Insert the 1st eye. Count 13 sts from the hole where you inserted the 1st eye and insert the 2nd eye. There should be 11 visible sts between the two eyes).
Start to stuff the head, continuing to stuff as you close the head up. See “stuffing” under the “Important Additional Info” section of this post for tips on how to stuff large heads.
R21: *sc 4, dec* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R22: *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)
Finish off. Leave a short tail. Do not sew the opening closed. Finish stuffing the head then set it aside until we make the body.

Top of beak (using green yarn)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 4 (4 sts)
R2: *inc* rep 4 times (8 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 4 times (12 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 4 times (16 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 4 times (20 sts)
R6: sc in all 20 sts (20 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Instead, flatten the piece, then sew the open end closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing. 
Set aside until we make the bottom of the beak.

Bottom of beak (using green yarn)
R1: ch 5, starting in 2^nd ch from hook, inc 1, sc 2, inc 1, now rotate your work 180 degrees and work in the front loops of the ch, starting in the first ch, inc 1, sc 2, inc 1 (12 sts)

Starting your work with a foundation chain is a great way to start a piece you want to be more oval than round. After crocheting through the top loops of the chain, you turn your work upside down so that the sts you just crocheted are at the bottom, and the front/bottom loops of the chain are now at the top. These are the sts you will now work into. Once you’re at the end of the row, the first round is complete! Now, you continue as you usually would working in the round. 

R2: *inc, sc 1* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R3: sc in all 18 sts (18 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Like we did for the top of the beak, sew the open end closed to create a flat edge for sewing.

Sewing the beak to the head
We will start by sewing the top of the beak to the front of the head first. Position it over R13 to 16 of the head so that the bottom corners curve down to R16 and the top edge is over R13. Pin it into place using straight pins.

Sew the outer edge of the beak to the front of the head using the whipstitch. We will only sew the top outer edge down. When you reach the other end of the beak, leave the remaining tail hanging until we sew the bottom part on.

Now place the bottom of the beak directly under the top of the beak over R16 to 20 of the head. The bottom piece should be curved so that the corners reach R16 of the head, and the bottom edge rests over R20. Pin it into place using straight pins.

Sew the bottom outer edge of the beak down using the whipstitch.

When you reach the end, knot the sewing tail to the remaining tail we left from the top of the beak together to secure the sewing.

Then, weave the two ends into the head to finish.

Frill (using green yarn)
The frill is worked in rows instead of rounds, so we will ch 1 and turn at the end of each row.

R1: ch 37, starting in the 2^nd ch from the hook, make 1 sc in each of the 36 chs (36 sts), ch 1, turn
R2: *inc 1, sc 5* rep 5 times, inc, sc 4, inc (43 sts), ch 1, turn
R3: *sl st 1, sc 1, make 1 hdc and 1 dc in the next st, make 1 dc, 1 trc, and 1 dc in the next st, make 1 dc and 1 hdc in the next st, sc 1* rep 7 times, sl st 1 (see below photo collage)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Position the frill centered over the top of the head.
Using the whipstitch, sew the bottom edge of the frill to the head.
When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave in all ends.  

Top horns (make 2 using cream yarn)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 4 (4 sts)
R2: inc, sc 2, inc (6 sts)
R3: sc in all 6 sts (6 sts)
R4: inc, sc 4, inc (8 sts)
R5: sc in all 8 sts (8 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff.
Position the horns in front of the frill and over R5-8 of the head. Position them so that the increases are pointing outward. Pin them in place using straight pins.
Sew the horns to the head using the seamless join method.

When you finish sewing the horns on, weave the remaining tails from both horns to the back of the head and knot the two tails together to secure the sewing.
Weave the remaining tails into the head to finish.

Front horn (using cream yarn)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 4 (4 sts)
R2: sc 3, inc (5 sts)
R3: sc 4, inc (6 sts)
R4: sc 5, inc (7 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff.
Position the horn over R4-6 of the top of the beak so that the increases are facing inward toward the head. Pin it in place using straight pins.
Sew the horn to the top of the beak using the seamless join method like we did for the top horns.

Body (using green yarn)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 6 (6 sts)
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6-11: sc in all 30 sts (6 rounds total at 30 sts each)
R12: *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R13-15: sc in all 24 sts (3 rounds total at 24 sts each)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the body firmly.

Since the last round of the head and the last round of the body have 24 sts, the two pieces will line up perfectly. Using the whipstitch, sew the two pieces together.

When you are about three-fourths of the way around, add a little more stuffing to the neck to make it sturdier. When finished, knot the finishing tail from the head we left to the remaining sewing tail of the body to secure the sewing and weave the tails into the body to finish.

Legs (make 2 using green yarn)
R1: ch 5, starting in 2^nd ch from hook, inc 1, sc 2, inc 1, now rotate your work 180 degrees and work in the front loops of the ch, starting in the first ch, inc 1, sc 2, inc 1 (12 sts)

Starting your work with a foundation chain is a great way to start a piece you want to be more oval than round. After crocheting through the top loops of the chain, you turn your work upside down so that the sts you just crocheted are at the bottom, and the front/bottom loops of the chain are now at the top. These are the sts you will now work into. Once you’re at the end of the row, the first round is complete! Now you continue as you usually would working in the round.

R2: sc in all 12 sts (12 sts)
R3: BLO sc in all 12 sts (12 sts) (This is the only round we will crochet in the BLO on the legs).
R4: sc in all 12 sts (12 sts)
R5: sc 3, dec 3, sc 3 (9 sts)
R6: sc in all 9 sts (9 sts)
R7: *sc 2, inc* rep 3 times (12 sts)
R8: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R9-10: sc in all 18 sts (2 rounds total at 18 sts each)
R11: *sc 1, dec* rep 6 times (12 sts)
Stop and stuff the leg lightly. Do not stuff it too firmly, or you will have difficulty sewing the legs to the
body.
R12: *dec* rep 6 times (6 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Flatten the top of each leg, and then sew the open end closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing (like we did for the top of the beak).

Sewing the Legs to the Body
Position the legs to the sides of the body so that your dino is able to sit up on her own when you set her on a flat surface. I sewed the back flat edge of the legs to R6-9 of my dino’s body, but yours might be different, so make sure to set your dino on a flat surface to ensure she can sit on her own.

When you have the legs positioned where you want them, pin them into place using straight pins to keep them in place while you are sewing them on.
Starting where your finishing tail is on the top of the leg, sew the flat back edge of the leg to the body. Then, sew down three to four stitches from the bottom of the thigh to the body.

When you have done that, weave the sewing tail up to the top of the leg and sew down three to four stitches of the top edge to secure (see the photo collage below). Repeat for the second leg.

When you are finished sewing the legs on, weave the remaining tails from both legs through to the back of the body and knot the two tails together to secure the sewing (like we did for the two top horns). Weave the remaining tails into the body to finish.

Arms (make 2 using green yarn)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 6 (6 sts)
R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 3 times (9 sts)
R3: BLO sc in all 9 sts (9 sts) (this is the last round we will crochet in the BLO on the arms)
R4-6: sc in all 9 sts (3 rounds total at 9 sts each)
R7: *sc 1, dec* rep 3 times (6 sts)
R8-11: sc in all 6 sts (4 rounds total at 6 sts each)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. I did not stuff my arms, but you may if you like. As we did for the legs, flatten the open ends closed on each arm and sew the opening closed so that there is a flat edge for sewing.

Sewing the Arms to the Body
Position the arms over R13-14 of the front of the body so they are angled slightly. Set your dino on a flat surface to make sure that the bottoms of the arms touch the ground. The arms should be spaced so that there are about 5 sts of the body between the arms.

Pin the arms into place using straight pins then sew them to the front of the body using the whipstitch.

Just like we did for the legs, when you are finished, weave the remaining tails from both arms through to the back of the body and knot the two tails together to secure the sewing. Weave the remaining tails into the body to finish.  

Tail (using green yarn)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 4 (4 sts)
R2: inc, sc 2, inc (6 sts)
R3: inc, sc 4, inc (8 sts)
R4: inc, sc 6, inc (10 sts)
R5: inc, sc 8, inc (12 sts)
R6: inc, sc 10, inc (14 sts)
R7: inc, sc 12, inc (16 sts)
R8: inc, sc 15 (17 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly.

Position the tail to the back of the body over R4-10 of the body, approx. It should be centered between the backs of the legs. Like we did for the legs and arms, place your dino on a flat surface to ensure the tail is positioned low enough to touch the ground.

Once positioned, pin it into place using straight pins and sew it to the body using the whipstitch. When you are about ¾ of the way around, finish stuffing the tail. When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the body to finish.

Congratulations !!
More Amigurumi Dinosaur Triceratops Ideas:

Materials You Need
– Worsted-weight yarn (4 ply) in two complementary colors. (U.K. equivalent is Aran & AUS/NZ is 8 ply.)  For my stegosaurus, I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in the colors “Hot Orchid” and “Mixed Berry”.
– G (4 mm) crochet hook
– 10 mm black safety eyes
– Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice) 
– Bent tip tapestry needle
– Scissors 
– Stitch marker 
– Straight pins

Abbreviation Key
Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.
– sc – single crochet
– st/sts – stitch(es)
– sl st – slip stitch
– dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
– inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
– BLO – back loops only
– R1 – round 1
– rep – repeat
– ** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.

Amigurumi Crochet Small Dinosaur Free Pattern:

Body starting with the tail (using light purple yarn)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 4 (4 sts) (you can use the magic circle if you prefer as it won’t make a difference in the end. In that case you will make a magic circle and make 4 sc in the magic circle. 
R2: inc, sc 2, inc (6 sts)
R3: inc, sc 4, inc (8 sts)
R4: inc, sc 6, inc (10 sts)
R5: inc, sc 8, inc (12 sts)
R6: inc, sc 10, inc (14 sts)
R7: inc, sc 12, inc (16 sts)
R8: inc, sc 14, inc (18 sts)
R9: sc 2, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 7, *inc, sc 2* rep 2 times (22 sts)
R10: sc, inc, sc 4, inc, sc 7, inc, sc 3, inc, sc 3 (26 sts)
R11: sc 3, inc, sc 4, inc, sc 9, inc, sc 5, inc, sc 1 (30 sts)
R12: sc, inc, sc 4, inc, sc 11, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 4 (34 sts)
R13: sc 4, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 13, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 1 (38 sts)
R14: sc 6, inc, sc 5, inc, sc 15, inc, sc 8, inc (42 sts)
R15: sc 6, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 17, inc, sc 9, inc (46 sts)

Making the Body
R16-23: sc in all 46 sts (8 rounds total at 46 sts each)
R24: sc 8, dec, sc 8, dec, sc 14, dec, sc 8, dec (42 sts)
R25: sc 7, dec, sc 7, dec, sc 13, dec, sc 7, dec (38 sts)
Stop and start to stuff the tail and body. Continue to add stuffing as you go (see last two images in pic. #2).
R26: *sc 6, dec* rep 2 times, sc 12, dec, sc 6, dec (34 sts)
R27: *sc 5, dec* rep 2 times, sc 12, dec, sc 4, dec (30 sts)
R28: *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R29: *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R30: *sc 1, dec* rep 6 times (12 sts)

Making the Head
R31: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R32: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R33: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R34-37: sc in all 30 sts (4 rounds total at 30 sts each)
R38: *dec* rep 6 times, sc 18 (24 sts) (the 6 dec sts need to be centered at the top of the head. Depending on your personal tension, you may need to adjust where they are placed. That is, you may need to move them more to the left or right until they are centered correctly. Use the tail as a guide to know what the center is.)
R39: *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts)
Stop and insert 10 mm safety eyes between R37 and R38 of the head, spaced 9 sts apart. (TIP: Insert the 1st eye. Count 8 sts from the hole where you inserted the 1st eye and insert the 2nd eye. There should be 7 visible sts between the two eyes.) Make sure that the tail is centered between the two eyes when you’re looking at him head-on before you secure the safety eyes. You may need to adjust the eye placement depending on your personal tension and where you placed the 6 dec sts from R38.
R40: *sc 1, dec* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R41: *dec* rep 6 times (6 sts)
Finish off and leave a tail. Finish stuffing the head firmly, then, using the tail we left and your tapestry needle, neatly sew the hole closed using the invisible finish technique.

Small plates (make 4 total. Make two in dark purple and two in light purple)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 4 (4 sts)
R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 2 times (6 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 3 times (9 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 3 times (12 sts)
R5: sc in all 12 sts (12 sts)
R6: *sc 2, dec* rep 3 times (9 sts)
R7: *sc 1, dec* rep 3 times (6 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Do not stuff. Instead, flatten each plate, and then sew the open end closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing (see pic. #10). Set aside until we have made the large plate.

Large plate (make one using light purple yarn)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 4 (4 sts)
R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 2 times (6 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 3 times (9 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 3 times (12 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 3 times (15 sts)
R6: sc in all 15 sts (15 sts)
R7: *sc 3, dec* rep 3 times (12 sts)
R8: *sc 2, dec* rep 3 times (9 sts)
R9: *sc 1, dec* rep 3 times (6 sts)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Instead, flatten the plate, and sew the open end closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing (see pic.).

Before sewing the legs on, place your stegosaurus on a flat surface to be sure he can stand on his own and that the legs are correctly positioned. Using your tapestry needle, sew the legs to the body using the whipstitch

When you are finished sewing each leg on, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the body to finish.
Congratulations !!!
More Amigurumi Dinosaur Ideas:

Abbreviations
MR – Magic ring
SC – Single crochet
DEC – Decrease
INC – Increase
FO – Fasten off
FLO – Front loops only
BLO – Back loops only
SLST – Slip stitch
CH – Chain
BOB – Bobble stitch

Materials
Size 6 Super Bulky blue and light blue yarn (you can use different kind of yarn according to your preference)
Hook size according to yarn you use (I used 6mm)
Safety eyes 18mm
Stitch marker
Scissors
Sewing needle
Fiberfill

Amigurumi Crochet Plush Baby Dinosaur Free Pattern:

Head – Body
Start with blue, make a magic ring. **You need to use stitch marker to keep a track number of stitches**
1. sc x 6 (6sc)
2. Inc x6 (12sc)
3. (Sc, inc) x 6 (18sc)
4. Change color, make a bobble stitch, change to body color, sc x 17 (18sc)
5. sc x 18 (18sc)
6. Change color, make a bobble stitch, change to body color, sc x 17 (18sc)
7. sc x 6. dec x 3, sc x 6 (15sc)
Insert safety eyes between rows 4-5, 8sts apart. Align eyes with arms.

Bobble stitches with 3 DC, you should have 4 loops on your hook.

8. Change color, make a bobble stitch, change to body color,
sc x 4, dec x 3, sc x 4 (12sc)
9. Sc x 5, inc x 3, sc x 4 (15sc) Stuff the head.
10. Change color, make a bobble stitch, change to body color, sc x 5, inc x 3, sc x 6 (18sc)
11. (2sc, inc) x6 (24sc)
12. Change color, make a bobble stitch, change to body color, Sc x 4, then make a bobble stitch with 4dc with body color working only in front loop, sc x 13, make a bobble stitch with 4dc with body color in FLO, sc x 4 (24sc)
13. (3sc, inc) x 6 (30sc)
14. Change color, make a bobble stitch, change to body color, SC x 29 (30sc)
15. Sc x 28, skip last 2 stitces, you will continue with chains to make a hole for tail. Ch 5.
16. Skip 3, sc into 4th stitch of the row. Make sc x 26 more (keep continue making sc into chain). (30sc)
17. (3sc, dec) x 6 (24sc)
18. (2sc, dec) x 6 (18sc) Start stuffing, keep stuffing as you go.
19. Sc, dec, sc, dec, bobble stitch with 4dc with body color, dec, sc, dec, sc, bobble stitch with 4dc with body color, dec, dec (12sc)
20. Dec x 6 (6sc) fasten off, close hole

Increases should be in front of the body to make belly.

To make a hole for tail, you need to skip 5stitches, last 2 sts of row 15 and first 3 sts of row 16.

Tail
You will have 5sts in body, 5sts in chain and 2 holes in two sides of hole. You need to make sc into these holes too, at the end you will have 12sc.

1. Hold dino upside down. Insert your hook and yarn over, pull through and make a chain. Make SC x 11 until the end of the row. You will have 12 sc in total.
2. Dec, sc x 4, dec, sc x 2, change color and make a Bobble stitch, change to body color and sc (10sc)

3. (Dec, 3sc) x 2 (8sc) Stuff with fiberfill.
4. (Dec, 2sc) x 2 (6sc)
5.(Dec, sc) x2 (4sc)

Fasten off, close hole. Weave in the end.

Congrats! You finished your plushie I hope you enjoyed it. If you post your plushie, please don’t forget to tag me.
More Amigurumi Dinosaur Ideas:

Materials
• Thread; black, white, orange, white
• Fiber for filling
• hook 3mm
• Scissors

Abbreviations
MR– magic ring
Ch– chain
Sc– single crochet
Dec– decrease
Inc– increase
Slst– slip stitch
BLO– Back loop only
Rnd– rounds

Amigurumi Diplodocus Free Pattern:

Legs
Rnd 1. 6sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3. (1sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4. 18sc BLO (18)
Rnd 5-8. 18sc (4 rnd)
Finish with slst. Secure the thread and weave in the ends inside. You may use thick paper circles for making flat from of feet.
We have completed the legs of the amigurumi dinosaur. Now let’s crochet the body part.

Body
Rnd 1. 18 ch
Rnd 2. 16sc, 3sc in 1, 15sc, 3sc in 1 (37)
Rnd 3. 5sc with leg, 7sc, 5sc with leg, 2 inc, 5sc with leg, 6sc, 5sc with leg, 1sc, inc (40)
Rnd 4. 13sc around the leg, 7sc, 13sc around the leg, 4sc, 13sc around the leg, 6sc, 13sc around the leg, 3sc (72)
Rnd 5-15. 72sc (11 rnd)
Rnd 16. 3sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 12sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 13sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 2sc (62)
Rnd 17. 3sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 12sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 7sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 12sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 2sc (54)
Rnd 18. dec, 2sc, dec, 12sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 10sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 1sc (46)
Rnd 19. 46sc (46)
Rnd 20. dec, 1sc, dec, 13sc, 2dec, 1sc, dec, 1sc, 2dec, 11sc, dec, 1sc, dec (37)
Rnd 21. 18sc, dec, 17sc (36)
Rnd 22. 2dec, 13sc, 3dec, 11sc, dec (30)
Rnd 23. dec, 11sc, 3dec, 9sc, dec (24)
Leave thread for sewing. Stuff. Sew the hole on the back.

Let’s crochet the head part of the free amigurumi toy.

Head
Rnd 1. 6sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3. (1sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4. (2sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Rnd 5. 24sc (24)
Rnd 6. 16sc, inc, 1sc, inc, 5sc (26)
Rnd 7-8. 26sc (2 rnd)
Rnd 9. (3sc, dec) x 3, 2sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 3sc (21)
Rnd 10. 10sc, dec, (1sc, dec) x 3 (17)
Rnd 11. 7sc, 3dec, 4sc (14)
Rnd 12-19. 14sc (8 rnd)
Rnd 20. 4sc, inc, 9sc (15)
Rnd 21-22. 15sc (2 rnd)
Rnd 23. (4sc, inc) x 3 (18)
Rnd 24-25. 18sc (2 rnd)
Rnd 26. (5sc, inc) x 3 (21)
Rnd 27-31. 21sc (5 rnd)
Rnd 32. (6sc, inc) x 3 (24)
Rnd 33. 24sc (24)
Rnd 34. (7sc, inc) x 3 (27)
Rnd 35-36. 27sc (2 rnd)
Rnd 37. (8sc, inc) x 3 (30)
Rnd 38. 30sc
Finish with slst. Stuff. Leave thread for sewing.
Let’s crochet the tail part of the free amigurumi pattern step by step.

Tail
Rnd 1. 4sc in MR (4)
Rnd 2. (1sc, inc) x 2 (6)
Rnd 3. 6sc (6)
Rnd 4. (2sc, inc) x 2 (8)
Rnd 5. 8sc (8)
Rnd 6. (3sc, inc) x 2 (10)
Rnd 7. 10sc (10)
Rnd 8. (4sc, inc) x 2 (12)
Rnd 9. (3sc, inc) x 3 (15)
Rnd 10-11. 15sc (2 rnd)
Rnd 12. (4sc, inc) x 3 (18)
Rnd 13-15. 18sc (3 rnd)
Rnd 16. (8sc, inc) x 2 (20)
Rnd 17-19. 20sc (3 rnd)
Rnd 20. (4sc, inc) x 4 (24)
Rnd 21-23. 24sc (3 rnd)
Rnd 24. (5sc, inc) x 3 (27)
Rnd 25-26. 27sc (2 rnd)
Rnd 27. (8sc, inc) x 3 (30)
Rnd 28-33. 30sc (6 rnd)
Rnd 34. (9sc, inc) x 3 (33)
Finish with slst. Stuff. Leave thread for sewing.
Let’s crochet the amigurumi dinosaur’s hat and flower patterns. 

Hat
Rnd 1. 6sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3. (1sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4. (2sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Rnd 5. (3sc, inc) x 6 (30)
Rnd 6-9. 30sc (4 rnd)
Rnd 10. BLO (4sc, inc) x 6 (36)
Rnd 11. (5sc, inc) x 6 (42)
Rnd 12. (6sc, inc) x 6 (48)
Rnd 13. (4sc, inc) x 9, 3sc (57)
Rnd 14. 57 slst
Secure the thread and weave in the ends inside.

Flower
Rnd 1. 6sc in MR
Rnd 2. Slst, 4 ch, slst, 4 ch, slst, 4 ch, slst, 4 ch, slst, 4ch, slst, 4 ch
Leave thread for sewing.
Congratulations, you have completed the amigurumi dinosaur pattern.

More Amigurumi Dinosaur Ideas:

Abbreviations
MR– Magic ring
Ch– Chain
Sl st– Slip stitch
Sc– Single crochet
Inc– Increase
Dec– Decrease
BLO– Back loop only

Materials
• 1.5 skeins of Himalaya Dolphin baby (or any other equivalent) light green
• A little thread of a different color
• Black thread for decorating the muzzle
• Eyes on a secure mount (I have 16 mm)
• Hook
• Needle for stitching parts

Amigurumi Plush Dinosaur Free Pattern:

Head
Rnd 1. 5 ch, start crocheting from the second loop from the hook – inc, 2 sc, 4 sc in the last loop, 2 sc, inc (12)
Rnd 2. inc, 4 sc, 2 inc, 4 sc, inc (16)
Rnd 3. inc, 6 sc, 2 inc, 6 sc, inc (20)
Rnd 4. 20 sc (20)
Rnd 5. 2 sc, б inc, 12 sc (26)
Rnd 6. 2 sc, (1 sc, inc)*6, 12 sc (32)
Rnd 7. 7 sc, 8 inc, 17sc (40)
Rnd 8. 7 sc, (1 sc, inc)*8, 17 sc (48)
Rnd 9-16. 48 sc, 8 rows (48)
Rnd 17. (6 sc, dec)*6 (42)
Rnd 18. (5 sc, dec)*6 (36)
Rnd 19. (4 sc, dec)*6 (30)
Rnd 20. (3 sc, dec)*6 (24)
Rnd 21. (2 sc, dec)*6 (18)
Rnd 22. (1 sc, dec)*6 (12)
Rnd 23. 6 dec.
Insert eyes between 6 and 7 side by side.

Muzzle
Rnd 1. 7 sc in MR
Rnd 2. 1 ch, turn and 7 sc in next side

Muzzle shaping.
With a black thread, first we embroider the eyelids, then the eyebrows (between 10 and 11 next).
The same thread can be used to embroider the nostrils. Each of 2-3 stitches, depending on the type of thread.

Upper paws
2 details.
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR
Rnd 2. 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3. (1 sc, inc)*6 (18)
Rnd 4-6. 18 sc (18)
Rnd 7. (2 sc, dec)*4, 2 sc (14)
Rnd 8-16. 14 sc, 9 rows (14)
Rnd 17. Fold in half, crochet 7 sc for both walls.
Embroider fingers with a thread of a different color.

Lower paws
2 details.
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR
Rnd 2. б inc (12)
Rnd 3. (1 sc, inc)*6 (18)
Rnd 4. (2 sc, inc)*6 (24)
Rnd 5. (3 sc, inc)*6 (30)
Rnd 6. 30 sc BLO (30)
Rnd 7. 30 sc (30)
Rnd 8. 11 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec, 11 sc (27)
Rnd 9. 9 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec, 10 sc (24)
Rnd 10. 8 sc, 4 dec, 8 sc (20)
Rnd 11. 6 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 6 sc (18)
Rnd 12-19. 18 sc, 8 rows (18)
Rnd 20. Fold in half, crochet 9 sc for both walls
Embroider fingers with a thread of a different color.

Body
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR
Rnd 2. 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3. (1sc,inc)*6 (18)
Rnd 4. (2sc,inc)*6 (24)
Rnd 5. (3sc,inc)*6 (30)
Rnd 6. (4sc,inc)*6 (36)
Rnd 7. (5sc,inc)*6 (42)
Rnd 8. (6sc,inc)*6 (48)
Rnd 9. (7sc,inc)*6 (54)
Rnd 10. (8sc,inc)*6 (60)
Rnd 11. 60 sc (60)

Next, crochet the lower paws.

Rnd 12. 11 sc, 9 sc with the first foot, 20 sc, 9 sc with the second foot, 11 sc (60)
Rnd 13-15. 60 sc (60)
Rnd 16. (8 sc, dec) * 6 (54)
Rnd 17. (7 sc, dec) * 6 (48)
Rnd 18. (6 sc, dec) * 6 (42)
Rnd 19. 42 sc (42)
Rnd 20. (5 sc, dec) * 6 (36)
Rnd 21-22. 36 sc (36)
Rnd 23. (4 sc, dec) * 6 (30)
Rnd 24-25. 30 sc (30)
In the 26th row we crochet the upper paws symmetrically with the upper.
Rnd 27. (3 sc, dec) * 6 (24)
Rnd 28. 24 sc (24)

On the body, you can embroider stripes with a thread of a different color.

Tail
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR
Rnd 2. 6 sc (6)
Rnd 3. (1sc,inc)*3 (9)
Rnd 4. (2sc,inc)*3 (12)
Rnd 5-6. 12 sc (12)
Rnd 7. (3sc,inc)*3 (15)
Rnd 8-9. 15 sc (15)
Rnd 10. (4sc,inc)*3 (18)
Rnd 11. 18 sc (18)
Rnd 12. (5sc,inc)*3 (21)
Rnd 13. 21 sc (21)
Rnd 14. (4sc,inc)*3 (24)
Rnd 15. 24 sc (24)
Rnd 16. 11sc, 2inc, 11sc (26)
Rnd 17. 12sc, 2inc, 12sc (28)
Rnd 18. 13sc, 2inc, 13sc (30)
Rnd 19. 14sc, 2inc, 14sc (32)
Rnd 20. 15sc, 2inc, 15sc (34)
Rnd 21. 16sc, 2inc, 16sc (36)
Rnd 22. 17sc, 2inc, 17sc (38)
Rnd 23. 18sc, 2inc, 18sc (40)

Sew the tail to the body so that Dino can stand by himself leaning on it.
Where 2 increases were made – this is the top.

Crest
Exactly in the middle of the head (beginning between the eyebrows), body and tail, outline a straight line. On it, crochet a row with connecting posts, a turn.
Scheme of one comb 1 hdc, 3 dc in one loop, 1 hdc, sl st.

More Amigurumi Dinosaur Ideas:

A little crochet dinosaur toy would be a cute gift anyone would love. The amigurumi dinosaur pattern is quick and easy to make using only basic crochet stitches. The head, neck and body are made as one piece and sewing is a breeze. The finished dinosaur is approximately 12 cm (4.7″) tall. The exact size of your toy will depend on what yarn and hook are used.

Materials:
– Yarn: YarnArt Jeans (55% cotton, 45% acrylic, 50 g/160 m)
– Hook size: 2.0 mm
– 7-8 mm safety eyes
– Some black yarn for embroidering nose, mouth and eyebrows and pink for embroidering cheeks
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– Sewing pins
– Fiberfill

Abbreviations:
R = row
mc = magic circle
ch = chain
st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
inc = 2 sc in the next stitch
dec = single crochet 2 stitches together
F.o. = finish off
(12) = number of stitches you should have at the end of the round/row
(…) х 6 = repeat whatever is between the brackets the number of times stated

Amigurumi Little Dinosaur Free Pattern:

Head, Neck and Body (one piece)
Stuff as you go.
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc) x 6 (12)
R 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
R 4: (2 sc, inc) х 6 (24)
R 5: (3 sc, inc) х 6 (30)
R 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)
R 7-13: 36 sc (7 rows)
R 14: 8 sc, (1 sc, dec) x 9, 1 sc (27)
R 15: 7 sc, 10 dec (17)
Insert safety eyes between R 9 and R 10 at the distance of 12 st from each other.
R 16-25: 17 sc (10 rows)
R 26: (4 sc, inc) x 3, 2 sc (20)
R 27: (3 sc, inc) x 5 (25)
R 28: (4 sc, inc) x 5 (30)
R 29: (5 sc, inc) x 5 (35)
R 30: (6 sc, inc) x 5 (40)
R 31: (7 sc, inc) х 5 (45)
R 32-39: 45 sc (8 rows)
R 40: (13 sc, dec) x 3 (42)
R 41: (5 sc, dec) х 6 (36)
R 42: (4 sc, dec) х 6 (30)
R 43: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
R 44: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
R 45: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
R 46: (dec) x 6 (6)
Sl st. F.o.

Embroider a nose, mouth and eyebrows with black yarn, cheeks with pink yarn.

Tail
R 1: 5 sc in mc (5)
R 2: (inc) x 5 (10)
R 3: 10 sc
R 4: (1 sc, inc) x 5 (15)
R 5: (2 sc, inc) х 5 (20)
R 6: 20 sc
R 7: (3 sc, inc) х 5 (25)
R 8: 25 sc
R 9: (4 sc, inc) х 5 (30)
R 10: 30 sc
R 11: (5 sc, inc) х 5 (35)
R 12: 35 sc
R 13: (6 sc, inc) x 5 (40)
F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing.

Arms (make 2)
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (1 sc, inc) x 3 (9)
R 3: 9 sc
R 4: 4 sc, dec, 3 sc (8)
R 5: 3 sc, dec, 3 sc (7)
R 6-12: 7 sc (7 rows)
Sl st. F.o. and leave a yarn tail about 10-15 cm long for sewing.

Legs (make 2)
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (1 sc, inc) х 3 (9)
R 3-4: 9 sc (2 rows)
F.o. and leave a yarn tail about 10-15 cm long for sewing.

Spikes #1 (make 4)
They are sewn to the head and neck.
R 1: 5 sc in mc (5)
R 2: 5 sc
R 3: (inc) x 5 (10)
Sl st. F.o. and leave a yarn tail about 10 cm long for sewing.

Spikes #2 (make 4)
They are sewn to the body and tail.
R 1: 5 sc in mc (5)
R 2: 5 sc
R 3: (inc) x 5 (10)
R 4: 10 sc
Sl st. F.o. and leave a yarn tail about 10 cm long for sewing.

More Amigurumi Dinosaur Ideas:

Learn how to crochet a cute dinosaur with this free amigurumi pattern! It will be a beautiful addition to your little child’s room, great gift for kids and friends. The height of finished amigurumi dinosaur is about 18 cm (7″).

Materials:
– Yarn: YarnArt Jeans (55% cotton, 45% acrylic, 50 g/160 m), 3 colors (green #69). The main color is about 30 g
– Hook size: 2.0 mm and 1.25 mm for cheeks
– 12 mm safety eyes
– Tapestry needle and scissors
– Fiberfill

Abbreviations:
R = row
ch = chain
st = stitch
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
inc = 2 sc in the next stitch
dec = single crochet 2 stitches together
( ) = number of stitches you should have at the end of the round/row
( ) х 6 = repeat whatever is between the brackets the number of times stated
F.o. = fasten off

Amigurumi Cute Crochet Dinosaur Free Pattern:

Head
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc)x 6 (12)
R 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
R 4: (2 sc, inc) х 6 (24)
R 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
R 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)
R 7: (5 sc, inc) х 6 (42)
R 8: (6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)
R 9: (7 sc, inc) х 6 (54)
R 10-21: 54 sc (12 rows)
R 22: (7 sc, dec) x 6 (48)
R 23-26: 48 sc (4 rows)
R 27: (6 sc, dec) x 6 (42)
R 28: (5 sc, dec) х 6 (36)
R 29: (4 sc, dec) х 6 (30)
R 30: (3 sc, dec х 6 (24)
R 31: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
R 32: (1 sc, dec) х 6 (12)
Stuff with fiberfill.
R 33: (dec) x 6 (6)
F.o.

Legs and Body (one piece)
Stuff as you go.

Legs (make 2)
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc)x 6 (12)
R 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
R 4-7: 18 sc (4 rows)
F.o.

Don’t cut the yarn when you will finish the second leg!

From the second leg: 3 ch, join with the first leg.
Continue crocheting the body in the round:
R 8: 18 sc on the first leg, 3 sc in 3 ch, 18 sc on the second leg, 3 sc in 3 ch (opposite side) (42)
R 9: (6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)
R 10-13: 48 sc (4 rows)
R 14: (7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)
R 15-19: 54 sc (5 rows)
R 20: (7 sc, dec) x 6 (48)
R 21-24: 48 sc (4 rows)
R 25: (6 sc, dec) x 6 (42)
R 26-29: 42 sc (4 rows)
R 30: (5 sc, dec) х 2, (1 sc, dec) х 5, 4 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec (33)
R 31: 33 sc
R 32: 12 sc, (1 sc, dec) х 3, 12 sc (30)
R 33-39: 30 sc (7 rows)
F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing.

Arms (make 2)
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc)x 6 (12)
R 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
R 4-5: 18 sc (2 rows)
R 6: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
R 7: (4 sc, dec) x 2 (10)
R 8-16: 10 sc (9 rows)
Stuff only the bottom of the arm.
Fold top of arm flat and 4 sc through both sides across.
F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing.

Tail
R 1: 5 sc in mc (5)
R 2: (inc) x 5 (10)
R 3: 10 sc
R 4: (inc, 2 sc) х 3, inc (14)
R 5: 14 sc
R 6: (2 inc, 5 sc) x 2 (18)
R 7: 18 sc
R 8: (2 inc, 7 sc) х 2 (22)
R 9: 22 sc
R 10: 6 sc, inc, 7 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc (25)
R 11: 25 sc
R 12: 7 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc, 7 sc, inc (28)
R 13: 28 sc
R 14: 8 sc, inc, 9 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc (31)
R 15: 31 sc
R 16: 9 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 9 sc, inc (34)
R 17-19: 34 sc (3 rows)
R 20: 7 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec (30)
Stuff with fiberfill.
F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing.

Cheeks (make 2)
With YarnArt Jeans yarn divided into two threads and 1.25 mm crochet hook:
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc)x 6 (12)
R 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing.

Sew the head and tail to the body.

Spikes
Start crocheting from the tail, from the R 2: (5 dc in one st, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in the next st, skip 1 sc)* repeat to the middle of the head.
F.o. and leave a yarn tail about 15 cm long.

Embroider nostrils with left yarn tail.

Assembly
Sew the arms to the body between R 31 and R 32.
Sew the cheeks to the head as shown in the pictures.
Embroider a mouth and eyebrows with a black embroidery thread or yarn.
Embroider ticks on the back with a yellow yarn.

More amigurumi Dinosaur Ideas:

Materials
• Rope in the color you like
• Fiber
• Eye
• Needle
• 2 – 2.5 mm crochet hook

Abbreviations
R = row
mc = magic circle
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc: double crochet
hdc = half double crochet
sl st = slip stitch
inc = increase (2 sc in one st)
dec = decrease (2 sc together)
BLO = back loop only
FLO = front loop only
F.o. = finish off

Amigurumi Tired Dinosaur Free Pattern:

Head
1: 6 sc into the magic ring
2: 2 sc in each loop (12)
3: (1 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = 18 sc
4: (2 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = 24 sc
5: (3 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = 30 sc
6: (4 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = 36 sc
7: (5 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = 42 sc
8: (6 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = 48 sc
9-15: 48 sc
16: (7 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = 54 sc
16 -21: 54 sc
22: (7 sc, 1 dec) * 6 = 48 sc
23: (6 sc, 1 dec) * 6 = 42 sc
24: (5 sc, 1 dec) * 6 = 36 sc
25: (4 sc, 1 dec) * 6 = 30 sc
26: (3 sc, 1 dec) * 6 = 24 sc
27: (2 sc, 1 dec) * 6 = 18 sc
Start filling.
28: (1 sc, 1 dec) * 6 = 12 sc
29: 6 dec = 6 sc

Nose
1: 7 ch, From second ch ‘, 5 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc = 12 sc
2: 2 inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc = 18 sc
3: 2 inc, 6 sc, 3 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc = 24 sc
4: 2 inc, 9 sc, 3 inc, 9 sc, 1 inc = 30 sc
5: 2 inc, 12 sc, 3 inc, 12 sc, 1 inc = 36 sc
6: 2 inc, 15 sc, 3 inc, 15 sc, 1 inc = 42 sc
7-11: 42 sc
12: (5 sc, 1 dec) * 6 = 36 sc

Nostril (2 pcs.)
1: 4 sc into the magic ring
2: inc = 8 sc in each loop
3-4: 8 sc

Body
1: 6 sc into the magic ring
2: inc = 12 sc in each loop
3: (1 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = 18 sc
4: (2 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = 24 sc
5: (3 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = 30 sc
6: (4 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = 36 sc
7: (5 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = 42 sc
8: (6 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = 48 sc

9: (7 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = 54 sc
10: (8 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = 60 sc
11: (9 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = 66 sc
12-16: 66 sc
17: (9 sc, 1 dec) * 6 = 60 sc
18-19: 60 sc
20: (8 sc, 1 dec) * 6 = 54 sc
21-23: 54 sc
24: (7 sc, 1 dec) * 6 = 48 sc
25-27: 48 sc
28: (6 sc, 1 dec) * 6 = 42 sc
29-31: 42 sc
32: (5 sc, 1 dec) * 6 = 36 sc
33-35: 36 sc
36: (4 sc, 1 dec) * 6 = 30 sc
37-41: 30 sc

Legs (2 pcs.)
1: 6 sc into the magic ring
2: 2 sc in each loop (12)
3: (1 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = 18 sc
4: (2 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = 24 sc
5-10: 24 sc
11: (2 sc, 1 dec) * 6 = 18 sc
12: (1 sc, 1 dec) * 6 = 12 sc
13-20: 12 sc
21: (1 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = 18 sc
22: 18 sc
23: (2 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = 24 sc
24: 24 sc
25: (3 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = 30 sc
26: 30 sc
27: (3 sc, 1 dec) * 6 = 24 sc
28: (2 sc, 1 dec) * 6 = 18 sc
29: (1 sc, 1 dec) * 6 = 12 sc
30: 6e = 6 sc

Arms (2 pcs.)
1: 6 sc into the magic ring
2: 2 sc in each loop (12)
3: (1 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = 18 sc
4-7: 18 sc
8: (1 sc, 1 dec) * 6 = 12 sc
9-19: 12 sc

Tail
1: 6 sc into the magic ring
2: 2 sc in each loop (12)
3-7: 12 sc
8: (1 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = 18 sc
9-13: 18 sc
14: (2 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = 24 sc
15-19: 24 sc
20: (3 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = 30 sc
21-23: 30 sc
24: (4 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = 36 sc
25: (5 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = 42 sc
26: (6 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = 48 sc
Let’s sew the tail between rows 2-15.

Head Barb (3 pcs.)
1: 4 sc into the magic ring
2: inc = 8 sc in each loop
3-4: 8 sc

Trunk Spines (3 pcs.)
1: 6 sc into the magic ring
2: 2 sc in each loop (12)
3-5: 12 sc
We have completed our dinosaur.

More Amigurumi Dinosaur Ideas:

Materials
• Yarn: Dolce YarnArt or  Himalaya Dolphin Baby
• Hook 3.5 mm
• Safety eyes 13 mm
• Four buttons 15 mm
• Needle and scissors
• Fine yarn to sew details to each other
• Fiberfill

Abbreviations
R = row
mc = magic circle
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
inc = 2 sc in the next stitch
dec = single crochet 2 stitches together
F.o. = finish off
(12) = number of stitches you should have at the end of the round/row
(…) x6 = repeat whatever is between the brackets the number of times stated

AMIGURUMI PLUSH DINOSAUR CROCHET FREE PATTERN

Arms (make two)
R 1. 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2. inc x6 (12)
R 3-4. 12 sc (2 rows)
R 5. 2 dec, 8 sc (10)
R 6-10. 10 sc (5 rows)
R 11. dec to the end to close the hole.
F.o.

Legs (make two)
R 1. 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2. inc x6 (12)
R 3. (1 sc, 1 inc) х6 (18)
R 4-6. 18 sc (3 rows)
R 7. 6 dec, 6 sc (12)
R 8. 3 sc ,1 dec , 7 sc (11)
You can change colour.
R 9-15. 11 sc (7 rows)
R 16. dec to the end to close the hole.

Spikes (make three)
R 1. 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2. 6 sc (6)
R 3. (1 sc, inc) х3 (9)
R 4. (2 sc, inc) х3 (12)
R 5. (3 sc, inc) х3 (15)
Fold top of spike flat and 6 sc through both sides across.
F.o.

Body + Head
R 1. 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2. inc x6 (12)
R 3. (1 sc, inc) х6 (18)
R 4. (2 sc, inc) х6 (24)
R 5. (3 sc, inc) х6 (30)
R 6-9. 30 sc (4 rows)
R 10. 4 sc, 6 dec, 14 sc (24)
R 11. 24 sc (24)
R 12. 6 sc, 2 dec, 14 sc (22)
R 13. (3 sc, dec) х4 , 2 sc (18)
R 14-15. 18 sc (2 rows)
R 16. inc x18 (36)
R 17-22. 36 sc (6 rows)
Chanche colour after R19, insert eyes between R 20-21.
R 23. (4 sc, dec) х6 (30)
R 24. (3 sc, dec) х6 (24)
R 25. (2 sc, dec) х6 (18)
R 26. (1 sc, dec) х6 (12)
R 27. dec to the end to close the hole.

Muzzle
Make 5 ch
From the 2nd chain from hook:
R 1. 3 sc, 3 sc in next st, jn the opposite side: 2 sc, inc (10)
R 2. inc, 2 sc, 3 inc, 2 sc, 2 inc (16)
R 3. 1 sc, inc, 2 sc, (1 sc, inc) х3, 2 sc, (1 sc, inc) х2 (22)
R 4. 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, (2 sc, inc) х3, 2 sc, (2 sc, inc) х2 (28)
R 5-6. 28 sc (2 rows)
F.o. Stuff gently.

Nostrils (make two)
Make 2 ch and 1 sc in the pace for a nostril. Distance of 7-8 stitches from each other. Or you can use two little buttons for nostrils.

Tail
R 1. 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2. 6 sc (6)
R 3. inc, 5 sc (7)
R 4. inc, 6 sc (8)
R 5. inc, 7 sc (9)
R 6. inc, 8 sc (10)
R 7. inc, 9 sc (11)
R 8. inc, 10 sc (12)
R 9. inc, 11 sc (13)
R 10. inc, 12 sc (14)
R 11. ( 1 sc, inc ) х7 (21)
F.o. Stuff gently.

Assembly
View video tutorial how to attach jointed arms and legs using buttons.
Embroider a mouth and eyebrows.
Sew spikes to the head, start from the middle of the head.

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