This free crochet pattern is designed to be beginner-friendly, enjoyable to crochet, and perfect for creating a classic, festive Santa Claus amigurumi with a clean and professional finish.

If you love crocheting holiday-themed amigurumi, Christmas decorations, and market-friendly crochet dolls, this adorable Santa Claus is a wonderful project to add to your collection.

Below you’ll find the full step-by-step instructions to crochet this cute amigurumi Santa Claus.

This pattern is designed to create a classic, jolly Santa Claus with a textured, curly beard. It is perfect for holiday decor or as a unique gift.

🧵 Materials & Tools

• Yarn: Cotton or Acrylic (DK/Light Worsted weight) in Red, White, Skin Color, Black, Brown, and a touch of Yellow/Gold.
• Hook: 2.25 mm or 2.5 mm.
• Eyes: 8 mm Safety Eyes.
• Stuffing: High-quality polyester fiberfill.
• Notions: Yarn needle, stitch marker, and scissors.

📝 Abbreviations (US Terms)

• MR: Magic Ring
• Sc: Single crochet
• Inc: Increase (2 sc in one stitch)
• Dec: Decrease (sc 2 together)
• BLO: Back Loops Only
• Sl st: Slip stitch
• Ch: Chain

🛠️ 🎅 Amigurumi Santa Claus Pattern Step-by-Step Instructions

1. Legs & Body (Worked as one piece)

Start with Black Yarn:

• R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
• R2: 6 inc (12)
• R3-R5: 12 sc (12)
• Switch to Red Yarn:
• R6: BLO 12 sc (12)
• R7-R10: 12 sc (12)
• Fasten off the first leg. Repeat for the second leg but do not cut the yarn. Chain 3 and join to the first leg.
• R11: 12 sc (leg 1) + 3 sc (on ch) + 12 sc (leg 2) + 3 sc (on ch) = 30 sc
• R12-R20: 30 sc (30)
• Switch to Black Yarn (Belt):
• R21: 30 sc (30)
• Switch back to Red Yarn:
• R22: (3 sc, 1 dec) * 6 (24)
• R23: (2 sc, 1 dec) * 6 (18)
• Stuff the body firmly.

2. Head (Skin Color)

• R24: BLO 18 sc (18)
• R25: (2 sc, 1 inc) * 6 (24)
• R26: (3 sc, 1 inc) * 6 (30)
• R27-R33: 30 sc (30) — Place safety eyes between R30 and R31, 5 sts apart.
• R34: (3 sc, 1 dec) * 6 (24)
• R35: (2 sc, 1 dec) * 6 (18)
• R36: (1 sc, 1 dec) * 6 (12)
• R37: 6 dec (6) — Close the hole.

3. The Curly Beard (White Yarn)

To achieve the textured look in your photo:

• Attach white yarn to the face where the beard should start (around R25-R26).
• Technique: Insert hook, pull up a loop, Ch 10, sl st back into the same stitch.
• Repeat this loop for every stitch from ear to ear, moving downwards in 2 or 3 rows to create a thick, layered effect.

4. Santa’s Hat (Red & White)

Start with Red:

• R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
• R2-R4: 6 sc (6)
• R5: (1 sc, 1 inc) * 3 (9)
• R6-R10: 9 sc (9)
• Continue increasing by 3 stitches every few rows until it fits the head.
• Edge: Switch to white yarn (textured/fluffy yarn works best) and work 2 rows of sc.
• Attach a large white pom-pom to the tip.

5. Arms & Accessories

• Arms: Start with Skin Color (6 sc in MR), switch to Red and work 10 rows of 6 sc.
• Nose: Skin Color, 6 sc in MR, 1 row of 6 sc. Sew between the eyes.
• Toy Sack: Brown yarn. Work a circle (6, 12, 18, 24 sc), then 8 rows of 24 sc. Stuff lightly and tie with a red ribbon.

🎨 Finished Amigurumi Santa Claus – Color Variations

Materials:
Approx 35g double knitting weight yarn, of whichever colour or
colours you wish to use for your dragon.
Small amount of cream/beige yarn to sew claws.
Stuffing.
1 pair 7.5 mm safety eyes or beads of a similar size for eyes (or you
can embroider the eyes, so a small amount of yarn to do that).
Tapestry needle.
3.5mm hook (US E hook).
Finished size: approximately 28cm/11” nose to tip of tail, 20cm/8″
wingspan.
Abbreviations:
ch = chain
st = stitch or stitches
ss = slip stitch
sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (UK)
hdc = half double crochet (US), half treble crochet (UK)
dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (UK)
fpsc = front post single crochet
fphdc = front post half double crochet
fpdc = front post double crochet
tog = together
sc2tog = decrease by working two sc together
YOH = Yarn over hook
FO = fasten off
Special stitch instructions:
Fpsc, fphdc or fpdc: work stitch (sc, hdc or dc) by putting your hook
from right to left around the back of the post of the next stitch on
the previous row. This will create a ridge on the other side of your
work.
Notes:
This dragon is made mostly in rounds, although the wings are made
in rows. Do not join rounds unless told to, use a stitch marker to
mark the start of a round – a small piece of different coloured yarn
placed under the stitch at the start of the round will do. To start a
round, you can use the magic ring method, but I prefer (ch2, work
6 sc into 1st ch). If you work the 6 sc over the tail of yarn as well
you can use that to pull the hole tight.
Stuff the body as you go along, not too tightly so that the dragon
can bend its neck and tail.

Fierce Little Dragon Amigurumi Pattern

Nostrils (make 2):
Ch2, work 8 sc into 1st ch, join round with a ss into the first sc – 8
st.
FO one of them leaving a length of yarn.
Do not FO the second nostril. To join them together sc into the 1st
stitch after the ss on the first nostril, sc into next 7 st. Sc into the
1st stitch after the ss on the second nostril, sc into next 7 st. You
now have the start of the nose with 16 st. Use the length of yarn to
sew up the gap between the two parts.

Body (continue from nose):
Round 1: Sc in each st around – 16 st.
Round 2: [Sc2tog, sc in next 6 st] 2 times – 14 st.
Round 3: Sc in each st around – 14 st.
Round 4: [Sc2tog, sc in next 5 st] 2 times – 12 st.
Round 5 – 6: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 12 st.
Round 7: Sc in next 5 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next
st, sc in next 4 st – 14 st.
Round 8 – 10: (3 rounds) Sc in each st around – 14 st.
If using safety eyes, fit now between round 8 and 9 on either side
of the head.
Round 11: Sc in next 6 st, sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog, sc in next
3 st – 12 st.
Round 12: Sc in next st, sc2tog, sc in next 4 st, sc2tog, sc in next
3 st – 10 st.
Round 13 – 17: (5 rounds) Sc in each st around – 10 st.
Round 18: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st] 2 times – 12 st.
Round 19 – 20: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 12 st.
Round 21: Sc in next 3 st, [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times,
sc in next 3 st – 15 st.
Round 22: Sc in next 3 st, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] 3 times,
sc in next 3 st – 18 st.
Round 23: Sc in each st around – 18 st.
Round 24: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] 6 times – 24 st.
Round 25 – 26: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 24 st.
Round 27: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st] 4 times – 28 st.
Round 28 – 31: (4 rounds) Sc in each st around – 28 st.
Round 32: [Sc2tog, sc in next 5 st] 4 times – 24 st.
Round 33: Sc in each st around – 24 st.
Round 34: [Sc2tog, sc in next 4 st] 4 times – 20 st.
Round 35: Sc in each st around – 20 st.
Round 36: [Sc2tog, sc in next 3 st] 4 times – 16 st.
Round 37: Sc in each st around – 16 st.
Round 38: [Sc2tog, sc in next 6 st] 2 times – 14 st.
Round 39: Sc in each st around – 14 st.
Round 40: [Sc2tog, sc in next 5 st] 2 times – 12 st.
Round 41 – 50: (10 rounds) Sc in each st around – 12 st.
Round 51: Sc2tog, sc in next 10 st – 11 st.
Round 52 – 53: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 11 st.
Round 54: Sc2tog, sc in next 9 st – 10 st.
Round 55 – 56: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 10 st.
Round 57: Sc2tog, sc in next 8 st – 9 st.
Round 58 – 59: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 9 st.
Round 60: Sc2tog, sc in next 7 st – 8 st.
Round 61 – 63: (3 rounds) Sc in each st around – 8 st.
Round 64: Sc2tog, sc in next 6 st – 7 st.
Round 65 – 73: (9 rounds) Sc in each st around – 7 st.
Round 74: Sc2tog, sc in next 5 st – 6 st.
Round 75 – 76: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 6 st.
FO, finish stuffing and sew up end of tail.

Back Legs (make 2):
Stuff as you go along.
Round 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc into 1st ch – 6 st.
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around – 12 st.
Round 3 – 5: (3 rounds) Sc in each st around – 12 st.
Round 6: Sc in next 6 st, [sc2tog] 3 times – 9 st.
Round 7 – 8: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 9 st.
Round 9: Sc in next 6 st, [2 sc in next st] 3 times – 12 st.
Round 10: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 6 times – 18 st.
Round 11 – 12: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 18 st.
Round 13: Sc in next 3 st, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in next 5 st,
[sc2tog] 2 times, sc in next 2 st – 14 st.
Round 14: Sc in next 2 st, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in next 3 st,
[sc2tog] 2 times, sc in next st – 10 st.
Round 15: [Sc2tog] 5 times – 5 st.
FO, leaving a length of yarn.
Finish stuffing, then use cream/beige yarn to sew claws. Sew up top
of leg.
Front Legs (make 2):
Stuff as you go along.
Round 1: Ch 2, work 5 sc into 1st ch – 5 st.
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around – 10 st.
Round 3 – 5: (3 rounds) Sc in each st around – 10 st.
Round 6: Sc in next 6 st, [sc2tog] 2 times – 8 st.
Round 7 – 12: (6 rounds) Sc in each st around – 8 st.
Round 13: [Sc2tog, sc in next 2 st] 2 times – 6 st.
FO, leaving a length of yarn.
Finish stuffing, then use cream/beige yarn to sew claws. Sew up top
of leg.
Spikes on back:
Small – ch 3, sc into 2nd ch from hook, hdc into 3rd ch from hook,
ch1.
Large – ch 3, sc into 2nd ch from hook, YOH, hook into next ch, YOH
and pull through st, YOH, pull through 2 loops, YOH, into same st,
YOH and pull through st, YOH and through all loops on hook, ch1.
You make the spikes continuously.
Work 3 small, 10 large, 3 small, ch 2, sc into 2nd ch from hook, ch
1, FO. Leave a length of yarn to sew to the body. Depending on the
length of your dragon you may need to adjust the number of spikes
you make to fit along your dragon’s back from behind the eyes to
the tip of the tail.

Wings (make 2):
Ch 20.
Row 1: Miss 1st ch, sc in next 7 ch, hdc in next 6 ch, dc in next 6
ch, ch 2, turn.
Row 2: Fpdc in next 6 st, fphdc in next 6 st, fpsc in next 7 st, ch 1,
turn.
Row 3: Fpsc in next 7 st, hdc in next 6 st, dc in next 6 st, ch 3,
turn.
Row 4: Miss 1st ch, ss in next ch, sc in next ch (to make claws),
fpdc in next 6 st, fphdc in next 6 st, fpsc in next 7 st, ch 1, turn.
Row 5: Fpsc in next 7 st, hdc in next 6 st, dc in next 6 st, ch 2,
turn.
Row 6: Fpdc in next 6 st, fphdc in next 6 st, fpsc in next 7 st, ch 1,
turn.
Row 7: Fpsc in next 7 st, hdc in next 6 st, dc in next 6 st, ch 3,
turn.
Row 8: Miss 1st ch, ss in next ch, sc in next ch, fpdc in next 6 st,
fphdc in next 6 st, fpsc in next 7 st, ch 1, turn.
Row 9: Fpsc in next 7 st, hdc in next 6 st, dc in next 6 st, ch 2,
turn.
Row 10: Fpdc in next 6 st, fphdc in next 6 st, fpsc in next 7 st, ch
1, turn.
Row 11: Fpsc in next 7 st, hdc in next 6 st, dc in next 6 st, ch 3,
turn.
Row 12: Miss 1st ch, ss in next ch, sc in next ch, fpdc in next 6 st,
fphdc in next 6 st, fpsc in next 7 st.
Sc into every other row along the base of the wing – 6 st.
Ss along the back of the original ch (19 st) until you get to the tip of
the wing. Make claw – ch 3, turn, miss 1st ch, ss in next ch, sc in
next ch. FO leaving a good length of yarn. Use this to secure the
last claw to the rest of the wing, then take yarn through wing to its
base, ready to sew onto body. Weave in ends.

Ears (make 2):
Ch 6, turn.
Skip 1st st, sc, dc, sc, ss. Leave the last ch and ss into the back of
the previous 4 st. FO, leaving a length of yarn.
Completing your dragon:

All the body parts ready to be assembled – the wing on the left shows the
top and the wing on the right shows the ridged underside.
Sew the spikes along the back from just behind the ears to the tip
of the tail. Take your time to make sure they are straight and in the
exact middle of the back. This will be helpful when you try to
position the wings and the legs.
If you haven’t used safety eyes, embroider eyes or sew on beads
for eyes. Embroider a roughly diamond shape in a contrasting
colour, then use black for the pupils so they look a bit like cat’s
eyes.
Sew the ears onto head above eyes, going over the last chain
several times to create the brow bone shape. Weave in any ends

Sew the legs on in the positions shown.
Sew on the wings a little distance from either side of the spikes with
the front edge about level with the front legs. The ridged side
should be the underside of the wings.

Your fierce little dragon is all finished now!
Pattern copyright Lucy Collin 2011. All rights reserved. This is a free
pattern of my design so share as you like, but do not sell it. If you
sell products made from this pattern, please credit Lucy
Collin/LucyRavenscar as the designer.

Terminología:
pb punto bajo
pc punto de cadeneta
pe punto enano
pa punto alto
mpa medio punto alto
aum aumentar
dim disminuir
rep repetir

Taz Amigurumi Crochet Free Pattern

Cuerpo:
En marrón, hacer una cadeneta de 13pc.
1: 9pb, 5pb en el ultimo pc (dar la vuelta), 10pb, 5pb en el ultimo pc, 1pe para acabar la vuelta. (30)
2: 1pc, 10 pb, 5aum, 10 pb, 5aum (40)
3: *1 aum, 19pb* rep 2 veces (42)
4: 11pb, 1aum, 20 pb,1 aum, 9 pb (44)
5: *21pb, 1aum* rep 2 veces (46)
6: 7pb, 1aum, 22pb, 1aum, 15pb (48)
7: *1aum, 23pb* rep 2 veces (50)
8: 12pb, 1aum, 24pb, 1aum, 12pb (52)
9 -12: 1pb en cada pb (52)
13: 1aum, 25pb, 1aum, 1aum, 25pb (54)
14: 11pb, 1aum, 26pb, 1aum, 15pb (56)
15: 5pb, 1aum, 27pb, 1aum, 22pb (58)
16: *1aum, 28pb* rep 2 veces (60)
17: 20pb, 1aum, 29pb, 1aum, 9pb (62)
18: *30pb, 1aum* rep2 veces (64)
19: 15pb, 1aum, 31pb, 1aum, 16pb (66)
20: *1aum, 32pb* rep 2 veces (68)
21: 4pb, 1aum, 33pb, 1aum, 29pb (70)
22: *34ms, 1aum* rep 2 veces (72)
23: 10pb, 1aum, 35pb, 1aum, 25pb, (74)
24 – 29: 1pb en cada pb (75)
30: 14pb, 1dim, *16pb, 1dim* rep 3 veces, 4pb (70)
31: *12pb, 1dim* rep todo alrededor (65)
32: 6pb, 1dim, *11pb, 1dim* rep 4 veces, 5pb (60)
33: *1dim, 10pb* rep todo alrededor (55)
34: 3pb, 1dim, * 9pb, 1dim* rep 4 veces, 6pb (50)
35: 4pb, 1dim, *6pb, 1dim* rep 5 veces, 4pb, 1pe para acabar.
Rellenar y coser para cerrar.

Cabeza:
En marrón, hacer una cadeneta de 8 puntos.
1: 6pb, 5pb en el ultimo pc (girar), 5pb, 4pb en el ultimo pb, 1pe (20)
2: 1pc, 1aum, 5pb, 5aum, 5pb, 4aum, 1pe (30)
3: 1pc, 9pb, 1aum, 4pb, 1aum, 9pb, 1aum, 4pb, 1aum, 1pe (34)
4: 1pc, 4pb, 1aum, 6pb, 1aum, 2pb, 1aum, *6pb, 1aum* rep 2 veces, 2pb, 1aum, 2pb, 1 pe (40)
5: 1pc, 1aum, 4pb, *1aum, 4pb* rep 7 veces (48)
6 – 9: 1pb en cada pb(48)
A partir de ahora se trabaja por filas
1: 18pb, dejar las ultimas 30 sin hacer. (18)
2: 1pc, 18pb (18) Rellenar y coser al cuerpo.
Panza:
En beige o marrón claro, se trabaja por filas, hacer una cadeneta de 10 puntos.
1: 9pb (9)
2: 1pc, 1aum, 7pb, 1aum (11)
3: 1pb en cada pb (11)
4: 1pc, 1aum, 9pb, 1aum (13)
5 – 22: rep las filas 3 y 4 (los 9pb de la fila 4 van aumentando de cada vez) (31)
23 – 28: 1pc, 1pb en cada pb (31)
Seguimos ahora con la mejilla
1:  1pc, 1dim, 11pb, 1 dim (dejar los últimos 16 puntos sin hacer) (13)
2 – 4: 1pc, 1dim, 1pb en el resto de los puntos y acabar por 1dim (7 al final) Vamos a los puntos que hemos dejado sin hacer y repetimos estas últimas filas para crear la mejilla 2. Realizar un borde haciendo 1pb todo alrededor del trabajo.
Morro: En beige o marrón claro 1: 6pb en un anillo mágico (6) 2: 6aum (6) 3: *1aum, 1pb* rep todo alrededor (18) 4: *1aum, 2pb* rep todo alrededor (24)
5 y 6: 1pb en cada pb (24)

Ahora por filas
1: 1aum, *1pb, 1aum* rep 2 veces, 1pe (dejar los otros 18 puntos sin hacer)
2: 1pc, 8pb, 1pe (9) 3: 1pc, 8pb, 1pe (cortar el hilo)
Seguimos por los puntos que dejamos sin hacer
1: *1pb, 1aum* rep 2 veces, 1pe
2 – 3: repetir las filas 2 y 3 anteriores.
Rellenar y coser entre las mejillas.
Dientes: (hacer 2)
En blanco
1: 5pb en un anillo mágico (5)
2 y 3: 1pb en cada pb (5) Coser bajo el morro. Ver foto.
Nariz:
En negro, hacer 1cadeneta de 4 puntos.
1: 2pb, 3pb en el ultimo punto, (girar) 1pb, 1aum (8)
2: 1aum, 1pb, 3aum, 1pb, 2aum (14)
3: 1aum, 3pb, 1aum, 2pb, 1aum, 3pb, 1aum, 2pb (18)
4: 7pb, 1aum, 9pb, 1aum (20)
5: 1pb en cada pb (20) Rellenar y coser al morro.

Labio inferior:
En beige o marrón claro, hacer una cadeneta de 8 puntos.
1: 1pb, 5aum, 1pb (12)
2: 1pc, 1pb en cada pb hasta final de la final (12)
3: 1pc, 1pb, 5dim, 1pb (7)
4: 1pc, 1pb, 2dim, 2pb (5)
Rellenar y coser debajo del morro.
Cejas: En negro, hacer una cadeneta de 14 puntos
1: 6pb, 1aum, 6pb Coser a la cara.
Orejas: (hacer 2)
En marrón.
1: *3pc (cuenta por 1pa), 6pa* en un anillo mágico (7)
2: 3pc, 1pa en el mismo punto, 2pa en el resto de punto (14)
3: 1pc, 1pb en cada pa (14)
Interior de la oreja: en rosa o melocotón.
1: *3pc (cuenta por 1pa), 6pa* en un anillo mágico (7)
2: 1pc, 7pa (14)
Coser la parte interior con la exterior y luego a la cabeza.
Cuernos: (hacer 2)
En marrón.
1: 6pb en un anillo mágico (6)
2: *1pb, 1aum* rep todo alrededor (9)
3 y 4: 1pb en cada pb (9)
5: 1aum, *3pb, 1aum* rep 2 veces (12)
6: 3pb, dejar los 8 otros puntos sin hacer
7: 1pc, 5pb, 1pe Coser a la cabeza.

Piernas: (hacer 2)
En marrón, hacer una cadeneta de 13 puntos y 1pe al final uniendo el principio para formar un círculo.
1: 1pc, 13pb, 1pe (13)
Trabajar por filas
2: 7pb, 1pe (dejar los otros 5 puntos sin hacer) (8)
3: 1pc, 7pb, 1pe (8)
Trabajar en círculo
1: 1pc, 7pb, seguimos por los puntos que dejamos sin hacer haciendo todo pb (13)
2: 1pb en cada pb (13)
Trabajar por filas
1: 1pc, girar, 6pb, 1pe (dejar los otros 5 puntos sin hacer) (7)
2: 1pc, *1pb, 1aum* rep 3 veces 1pe (10)
3: 1pc, 2pb, 1aum, *1pb, 1aum* rep 2 veces, 2pb, 1pe (13)
4 – 6: 1pc, 1pb en cada pb (13)
7: 1pc, *1aum, 3pb* rep 3 veces, 1pe (16)
8: 1pc, *1aum, 4pb* rep 3 veces, 1pe (19)
9: 1pc, *1aum, 5pb* rep 3 veces, 1pe (22)
10: 1pc, *1aum, 6pb* rep 3 veces, 3pb (27)
Trabajar en círculo
1: 1pb en cada pb
2: 1pb en cada pb
Coser los agujeritos que quedan, rellenar y coser al cuerpo.
Pies: (hacer 2)
En marrón
1: 6pb en un anillo mágico (6)
2: 6aum (12)
3: *1aum, 3pb* rep todo alrededor (15)
4: *1aum, 4pb* rep todo alrededor (18)
5 – 10: 1pb en cada pb (18)
11: *1aum, 2pb* rep todo alrededor (24)
12: *1aum, 3pb* rep todo alrededor (30)
13: 1pb en cada pb (30)
14: 10pb, 1mpa, 2mpa en los 3puntos siguientes, 1mpa (36)
15: 18dim (18)
Rellenar y coser a las piernas.

Brazos: (hacer 2)
En marrón, hacer una cadeneta de 13 puntos y 1pe al final uniendo el principio para formar un círculo.
1: 1pc, 13pb (13)
2 – 5: 1pb en cada pb (13)
6: 1aum, 12pb (14)
7: 7pb, 1aum, 6pb (15)
8: 3pb, 1aum, 11pb (16)
9: 1aum, 16pb (17)
10: 8pb, 1aum, 9pb (18)
11: 4pb, 1aum, 14pb (19)
12: 1aum, 18pb (20)
13: 10pb, 1aum, 9pb (21) Trabajar por filas
14: 10pb, 1pe (dejar los otros 10 puntos sin hacer)
15: 1pc, 5pb, 1aum, 4pb, 1pe (12)
16: 1pc, 5pb, 1aum, 5pb, 1pe (13)
17: 1pc, 4pb, 1aum, 4pb, 1pe (15)
18: 1pc, 7pb, 1aum, 6pb, 1pe (16)
19: 1pc, 15pb, 1pe (16)
20: 1pb todo alrededor
Rellenar y coser al cuerpo
Manos: (hacer 2) En marrón.

Dedo índice:
1: 6pb en un anillo mágico (6)
2: *1aum, 1pb* rep 3 veces (9)
3 – 6: 1pb en cada pb (9) Cortar el hilo.
Dedo corazón:
1: 7pb en un anillo mágico (7)
2: 1pb, *1aum, 1pb* rep 3 veces (10)
3 – 6: 1pb en cada pb (10) Cortar el hilo.
Dedo meñique:
1: 6pb en un anillo mágico (6)
2: *1aum, 2pb* rep 3 veces (8)
3 – 5: 1pb en cada pb (8)
No cortar el hilo, seguir con la palma de la mano!!!

Palma de la mano:
1: 27pb alrededor de los 3 dedos (27) 2: 1pb en cada pb, 3dim y 4dim en cada esquina (20)
3: 1pb en cada pb (20)
4: 1dim, 18 pb (19)
5 – 9: 1pb en cada pb (19) Rellenar y coser para cerrar.
Pulgar:
1: 7pb en un anillo mágico (6)
2: 1pb, *1aum, 1pb* rep 3 veces (9)
3 – 7: 1pb en cada pb (9)
Cortar hilo. Rellenar todas las partes, coserlas para unirlas y unir al brazo.
Cola:
En marrón.
1: 4pb en un anillo mágico (4)
2 y 3: 1pb en cada pb (4)
4: 1aum, 4pb (5)
5 y 6: 1pb en cada pb (5)
7: 1aum, 4pb (6)
8 y 9: 1pb en cada pb (6)
10: 1aum, 5pb (7)
11 – 12: 1pb en cada pb (7)
Rellenar y coser al cuerpo.

Información del pavo Pablito:
Patrón: lo tienes un poco más abajo
Lana: Stop. Prima Merino. 50gr – 185m
Aguja: 2mm Hamanaka
Ojos: 6mm
Tamaño: 7,5cm
Fecha: 29 Septiembre 2017
Para: Brenda (OMS)
PATRÓN DEL PAVO
Abreviaturas:
Aum: 2 puntos bajos en el siguiente punto bajo. Un aumento
Dis: unir dos puntos bajos. Una disminución
Cad: cadena
Pb: punto bajo
Aum: aumento, 2pb en el mismo punto
Dis: disminución (usar la disminución invisible)

Amigurumi El Pavo Pablito Free Pattern

Pico:
En amarillo
F1: 5 cadenas, empezando en el segundo punto: 4pb y 4pb en el otro lado de la cadena (8)
F2: 1pb en cada pb (8)
Cerrar dejando una hebra larga para coser al cuerpo-cabeza
Cabeza-cuerpo:
He usado la esfera perfecta de 30 filas con algunas modificaciones.
Con color marrón
F1: 6pb en anillo mágico
F2: [aum] (12)
F3: [1pb, aum] (18)
F4: 1pb, aum, 2pb, aum, 3pb, aum, 2pb, aum, 3pb, aum, 2pb (23)
F5: 1pb, aum, 3pb, aum, 3pb, aum, 3pb, aum, 3pb, aum, 3pb, aum, 1pb (29)
F6: 4pb, aum, 5pb, aum, 5pb, aum, 5pb, aum, 5pb, aum (34)
F7: 4pb, aum, 5pb, aum, 6pb, aum, 6pb, aum, 6pb, aum, 2pb (39)
F8: 6pb, aum, 8pb, aum, 9pb, aum, 9pb, aum, 3pb (43)
F9: 3pb, aum, 9pb, aum, 10pb, aum, 10pb, aum, 7pb (47)
F10: 6pb, aum, 14pb, aum, 15pb, aum, 9pb (50)
F11: 9pb, aum, 15pb, aum, 16pb, aum, 7pb (53)
F12: 1pb en cada pb (53)
F13: 5pb, aum, 16pb, aum, 17pb, aum, 12pb (56)
F14: 12pb, aum, 27pb, aum, 15pb (58)
F15: 1pb en cada pb (58)
F16: 17pb, aum, 40pb (59)
Colocar los ojos entre las filas 11 y 12, dejando 7 puntos entre ellos.
Comprobar que el pico queda en el centro, se puede coser ahora o con el cuerpo ya terminado.
F17-20: 1pb en cada pb (59)
F21: 40pb, dis, 17pb (58)
F22: 15pb, dis, 27pb, dis, 12pb (56)
F23: 12pb, dis, 17pb, dis, 16pb , dis, 5pb (53)
F24: 7pb, dis, 16pb, dis, 15pb, dis, 9pb (50)
F25: 9pb, dis, 15pb, dis, 14pb, dis, 6pb (47)
F26: 7pb, dis, 10pb, dis, 10pb, dis, 9pb, dis, 3pb (43)
F27: 3pb, dis, 9pb, dis, 9pb, dis, 8pb, dis, 6pb (39)
F28: 2pb, dis, 6pb, dis, 6pb, dis, 6pb, dis, 5pb, dis, 4pb (34)
F29: dis, 5pb, dis, 5pb, dis, 5pb, dis, 5pb, dis, 4pb (29)
F30: 1pb, dis, 3pb, dis, 3pb, dis, 3pb, dis, 3pb, dis, 3pb, dis, 1pb (23)
F31: 2pb, dis, 3pb, dis, 2pb, dis, 3pb, dis, 2pb, dis, 1pb (18)
F32: [dis, 1pb] (12)
F33: [dis] (6)
Cerrar

Alas:
Hacemos 4
Empezamos con color rojo
F1: 6pb en anillo mágico
F2: [aum] (12)
F3: [1pb, aum] (18)
F4-5: 1pb en cada pb (18)
Cambiamos a amarillo
F6: 1pb en cada pb (18)
F7: [4pb, dis] (15)
Cambiamos a marrón
F8-11: 1pb en cada pb (15)
F12: 13pb, dis (14)
F13-14: 1pb en cada pb (14)
F15: 6pb, dis, 6pb (13)
F16-17: 1pb en cada pb (13)
Cerrar dejando una hebra larga para coser al cuerpo-cabeza
Moco:
5 cadenas, empezando en el segundo punto: 3 puntos deslizados, 2pb en la última cadena. Cerramos y pasamos la hebra hacia el principio de la cadena, dejamos hebra suficiente para coser.
Cosemos el pico al cuerpo, el moco a un lado del pico.
Cosemos las alas al cuerpo, mejor empezar por las dos centrales.
Y listo! Ya tienes a tu pavito!

Materials :
Yarn (Sport/5ply) Brown, Cream, Orange and Black
Crochet hook. I’m using 2.5mm and 2.25mm crochet hook.
Felt (Black, and White). For the eyes and teeth.
100% polyester stuffing.
Glue and scissors.
Embroidery thread and needle. For nose and mouth.
Tapestry needle.
Wire.

Abbreviations:
st = stitch
sts = stitches
sc = single crochet
ch = chain
FLO = Front Loop Only
inc = increase, crochet 2 stitches in one sc
dec = decrease, crochet 2 stitches together
sl st = slip stitch
f/o = finish off

Amigurumi Dedenne Free Pattern

Head and Body
Using brown yarn.
1) magic ring with 6st (6)
2) inc in each sc (12)
3) [sc, inc] around (18)
4) [sc 2, inc] around (24)
5) [sc 3, inc] around (30)
6) [sc 4, inc] around (36)
7) [sc 5, inc] around (42)
8) [sc 6, inc] around (48)
9) [sc 7, inc] around (54)
10) [sc 8, inc] around (60)
11-18) sc round (60)
19) [sc 9, inc] around (66)
20) [sc 10, inc] around (72)
21-30) around (72)
31) [sc 10, dec] around (66)
32) [sc 9, dec] around (60)
33) [sc 8, dec] around (54)
34) [sc 7, dec] around (48)
35) [sc 6, dec] around (42)
36) [sc 5, dec] around (36)
37) [sc 4, dec] around (30)
38) [sc 3, dec] around (24)*Start to stuff it.
39) [sc 2, dec] around (18)
40) [sc, dec] around (12)
41) dec around (6) sl st and f/o
Leave a long tail for sewing. Make sure you stuff it firmly, then close the gaps.

Belly
Using cream yarn.
1) Ch 2, begin in the second ch from the hook and sc 3 in the same ch. Ch 1 and turn. (3)
2) inc, sc , inc. Ch 1 and turn. (5)
3) inc, sc 3 , inc. Ch 1 and turn. (7)
4) inc, sc 5, inc. Ch 1 and turn. (9)
5) inc, sc 7, inc. Ch 1 and turn. (11)
6) inc, sc 9, inc. Ch 1 and turn. (13)
7) inc, sc 11, inc. Ch 1 and turn. (15)
8) inc, sc 13, inc. Ch 1 and turn. (17)
9-12) sc across. Ch 1 and turn. (17)
13) sc across then sc along the edge of the belly. Sl st and f/o.
Leave a long tail for sewing.

Cheeks
Using orange yarn.
1) magic ring with 6st (6)
2) inc in each sc (12)
3) [sc, inc] around (18) sl st and f/o.
Leave a long tail for sewing.
Whiskers
Using smaller hook (2.25mm) and black yarn. Whiskers are working in 3 parts.
Part 1 (Make 2)
1) magic ring with 4st (4)
2) sc 3, inc (5)
3-16) sc around (5) sl st and f/o.
Leave a long tail for sewing.
Part 2 (Make 2)
1) magic ring with 4st (4)
2-10) sc around (4)
Leave a long tail for sewing.
Part 3 (Make 4)
1) magic ring with 4st (4)
2) sc 3, inc (5)
3-4) sc around (5) sl st and f/o.
Leave a long tail for sewing.
Part 4 (Make 4)
1) magic ring with 4st (4)
2-4) sc around (4)
Leave a long tail for sewing.
(1)Sew part 3 on part 1 in round 4th, repeat for another piece. (2)Sew part 4 on part 1 in round 7th, repeat for another piece. (3)Sew part 1 and part 2 onto cheeks, repeat for another piece. (Optional) you can add a wire in the whiskers to make it moveable.

Ears
Outer ears (Make 2)
Using black yarn.
1) magic ring with 6st (6)
2) inc in each sc (12)
3) [sc, inc] around (18)
4) [sc 2, inc] around (24)
5) [sc 3, inc] around (30)
6) [sc 9, inc] around (33)
7-15) sc around (33)
16) [sc 9, dec] around (30)
17) [sc 8, dec] around (27)
18) [sc 7, dec] around (24) sl st and f/o.
Leave a long tail for sewing.
Inner ears
Using cream yarn.
1) magic ring with 6st (6)
2) inc in each sc (12)
3) [sc, inc] around (18)
4) [sc 2, inc] around (24)
5) [sc 3, inc] around (30) sl st and f/o. Hide the tail.
(1) Glue the inner ears to outer ears. (2) Squish the corner of the outer ears then sew them together. f/o.

Arms
Using brown yarn.
1) magic ring with 6st (6)
2) inc in each sc (12)
3-7) sc around (12)
8-9) sl st 6x, sc 6 (12) sl and f/o.
Leave a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff this arms.
Foots
Using brown yarn.
1) magic ring with 6st (6)
2) inc in each sc (12)
3) [sc 3, inc] around (15)
4-8) sc around (15)
9) [sc 3, dec] around (12)
10) sl st 6x, dec 3x (9) sl st and f/o.
Leave a long tail for sewing. Put some stuff in it, but not too much.

Tail
Using black yarn.
1) magic ring with 4st (4)
2) [sc, inc] around (6)
3) [sc 2, inc] around (8)
4) [sc 3, inc] around (10)
5) [sc 4, inc] around (12)
6) sc around (12)
7) [sc 4, dec] around (10)
8) [sc 3, dec] around (8)
9) [sc 2, dec] around (6)
10-62 ) sc aroound (6) do not cut the yarn, we still needed to make the body stripe. You can add the wire to the tail before we going to make the body stripe.
Body stripe
63) inc in each sc (12)
64) [sc 3, inc] around (15)
65-72) sc around (15)
73) [sc 3, dec] around (12)
74-75) sc around (12)
76) [sc 2, dec] around (9)
77-78) sc around (9)
79) [sc, dec] around (6)
80) sc around (6), sl st and f/o.
Here is the optional, you can leave a long tail for sewing or you can cut the yarn and hide it, then put some glue to reattach into the body.

Tail spikes
Small spikes (Make 2)
Using black yarn.
1) magic ring with 4st (4)
2) [sc, inc] around (6)
3) sc 5, inc (7)
4) sc 6, inc (8) sl st and f/o.
Leave a long tail for sewing.
Big spikes (Make 2)
Using black yarn.
1) magic ring with 4st (4)
2) [sc, inc] around (6)
3) sc 5, inc (7)
4) sc 6, inc (8)
5) sc 7, inc (9) sl st and f/o.
Leave a long tail for sewing.

Assembly :
This assembly is only advice from me, you still need to use your imagination to make it look good in your eyes. Playing with the placement and get the best result.
1) Sew the whiskers and the cheeks to the head. I placed it between round 16th and 23th.
2) Sew the belly to the body. I placed the belly between round 20th and 32th.
3) Sew the arms and the foots to the body.
4) Sew the ears onto the head.
5) Sew the tail spikes to the tail. I placed small spikes in between round 3th and 6th and for the big spikes I placed in between round 7th and 10th.
6) Sew/glue the body stripe to the body. I placed it in between round 13th and 31st.

Face
I’m using black and white felt for the eyes, I placed the eyes between round 12th and 16th. For the nose and the mouth I’m using black embroidery thread (see the picture). For the teeth I’m using felt (really small piece), I placed the teeth between the mouth.

Materials: 

– 3.25mm (D) hook 

– Worsted weight yarn – 200 yards pink, 50 yards yellow and 100 yards skin tone color.

I used Sugar ‘N Cream cotton yarn in the colors Chamomile, Cream and Soft Ecru.

– 12mm safety eyes 

– Black embroidery floss

– Blush 

– Polyfil

– Yarn needle

My doll is 11″ tall when made with the above materials.

Stitch abbreviations:

Sc: single crochet
Hdc: half double crochet
Dc: double crochet
Inc: increase
Dec: decrease

St: stitch

Ch: chain

MR: magic ring

FO: fasten off

BLO: back loops only

FLO: front loops only

**Pattern is worked in continuous rounds.**

Amigurumi Buttercup Baby Doll Crochet Free Pattern

Arms
(Make 2)
R1: Starting in skin tone color, ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc, 3 sc in last ch, then working on the other side of the chain, 2 sc, sc inc (9)
R2: sc inc, 1 sc, sc inc x 3, 2 sc, sc inc x 2 (15) 
R3: (4 sc, sc inc) x 3 (18) 
R4: 7 sc, 5 dc bobble, 10 sc (18) 
R5: (4 sc, sc dec) x 3 (15) 
R6: (3 sc, sc dec) x 3 (12) Change color to pink on the last st of this round.
R7: 12 sl st BLO (12) 
R8: 12 sc BLO (12)
R9-15: 12 sc (12) 
Stuff and fasten off.

Legs
R1: Ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4 sc, 3 sc in next ch, then working on the other side of the chain, 5 sc, sc inc (15) 
R2: sc inc, 4 sc, sc inc x 3, 5 sc, sc inc x 2 (21) 
R3: (2 sc, sc inc) x 7 (28) 
R4: 28 sl st BLO (28) 
R5: 28 sc BLO (28)
R6: 28 sc (28) 
R7: 9 sc, sc dec x 4, 11 sc (24) 
R8: 8 sc, sc dec x 3, 10 sc (21) 
R9: sc dec x 1, 5 sc, sc dec x 3, 5 sc,sc dec x 1, 1 sc (16) 
R10-13: 16 sc (16) 
R14: (3 sc, sc inc) x4 (20) 
R15: 20 sc (20) 
Stuff legs. Fasten off the 1st leg but not the 2nd. Continue on to the body. 

Body 
Stuff as you go.
R1: Starting where you left off on the 2nd leg, 6 sc (if you are not at the center st where the legs should be joined, sc until you are then continue as written), ch 1, 20 sc on the 1st leg, making sure that the feel are facing the right direction, sc in ch 1, then sc in the remaining 14 sts on the 2nd leg. (42) 
R2: 6 sc, sc inc in ch 1, (6 sc, sc inc) x 5 (48) 
R3-4: 48 sc (48) 
R5: (6 sc, sc dec) x 6 (42) 
R6-8: 42 sc (42) 
R9: (5 sc, sc dec) x 6 (36) 
R10: 36 sc (36) 
R11: (4 sc, sc dec) x 6 (30) 
R12: 30 sc (30) 
R13: (3 sc, sc dec) x 6 (24) 
R14: Join arms: 12 sc around 1st arm, 12 sc to the other side of the body, 12 sc around 1nd arm, 12 sc on the body (48) 

R15: (6 sc, sc dec) x 6 (42) 
R16: (5 sc, sc dec) x 6 (36) 
R15: (4 sc, sc dec) x 6 (30) 
R16: (3 sc, sc dec) x 6 (24) 
R17: (2 sc, sc dec) x 6 (18) 
Finish stuffing and fasten off. 

Make the collar: In FLO of round 17, join yellow to the back of the doll. Ch 2 (does not count as a st), dc inc x 18 (36)
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Head
Stuff as you go.
R1: Join skin tone color to BLO of round 17 of the body. 18 sc (18) 
R2: 18 sc (18) 
R3: (1 sc, sc inc) x 9 (27) 
R4: (2 sc, sc inc) x 9 (36) 
R5: (3 sc, sc inc) x 9 (45) 
R6: (4 sc,sc inc) x 9 (54) 
R7: (8 sc, sc inc) x 6 (60) 
R8: (9 sc, sc inc) x 6 (66) 
R9-18: 66 sc (66) 
R19: (9 sc, sc dec) x 6 (60) 
R20: (8 sc, sc dec) x 6 (54) 
R21: (7 sc, sc dec) x 6 (48) 
R22: (6 sc, sc dec) x 6 (42) 
R23: (5 sc, sc dec) x 6 (36) 
R24: (4 sc, sc dec) x 6 (30) 
R25: (3 sc, sc dec) x 6 (24) 
R26: (2 sc, sc dec) x 6 (18) 
Place safety eyes between R14-15, 12 stitches apart. 
R27: (1 sc, sc dec) x 6 (12) 
R28: sc dec x 6 (6) 
Fasten off, close up head and weave in ends.

Hat
*The beginning ch of each round does not count as a stitch.
R1: Starting in pink, ch 1,10 hdc in MR, sl st join to 1st hdc (10) 
R2: Ch 1, hdc inc x 10, join to 1st hdc (20) 
R3: Ch 1, (1 hdc, hdc inc) x 10, join to 1st hdc (30) 
R4: Ch 1, (2 hdc, hdc inc) x 10, join to 1st hdc (40) 
R5: Ch 1, (3 hdc, hdc inc) x 10, join to 1st hdc (50) 
R6: Ch 1, (4 hdc, hdc inc) x 10, join to 1st hdc (60) 
R7-13: Ch 1, 60 hdc, join to 1st hdc (60) Change color to yellow on the last st of this round.
R14: 60 sl st BLO (60) 
R15: dc inc x 60 BLO (120) 
Fasten off with tail. Sew the hat to the head.

Small Flower
R1: In MR, Ch 3, dc, ch3, sl st back to magic ring. Repeat 4 more times to make 5 petals. 
Fasten off with long tail and sew to body. 

Large Flower
R1: Ch 1, 10 hdc in magic ring, sl st join to 1st hdc (10) 
R2: Ch 1, (1 hdc, hdc inc, ch2) x5, join to 1st hdc (15 hdc, 10 chs) 
R3: (1 sc, skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 1) x 5, join to 1st hdc (30 (25 dc, 5 sc)) 
R4: dc inc in each dc, sl st in each sc around, join to 1st hdc (55 (50 dc, 5 sl st)
Fasten off with long tail. Sew to hat.

You’re done! 

I hope you have enjoyed making your doll as much as I enjoyed designing him. 

More Amigurumi Baby Doll Ideas:

Amigurumi Designer : Jessica Doering, Neogurumi

Materials:
– In the yarn weight of your choice, approximately 200 yards skin tone color, 80 yards hair color.
(I used Hobby Lobby I love this cotton in the colors Warm Blush (skin tone) and Buttercup (hair)

• Suggested hook size: 3.25mm (D).
• 2 x 12mm or 13mm safety eyes (any color), or size of your choosing.
• Black embroidery floss
• Blush

My doll measures approximately 9” tall when made with the above materials.

You can use any weight yarn or thread that you are comfortable using, just adjust your hook size accordingly.

Stitch abbreviations:

Sc: single crochet

Dc: double crochet

Inc: increase

Dec: decrease

Slst: slip stitch

Ch: chain
MR – magic ring
FO – fasten off.

Special stitches used

5 dc bobble stitch:

·        Step 1: Yarn over, insert hook into st, yarn over again & pull up loop, yarn over, draw back through 2 loops. (2 loops)

·        Step 2: Yarn over, insert hook into same st, yarn over again & pull up loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops (3 loops)

·        Step 3: Yarn over, insert hook into same st, yarn over again & pull up loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops (4 loops)

·        Step 4: Yarn over, insert hook into same st, yarn over again & pull up loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops (5 loops)

·        Step 5: Yarn over, insert hook into same st, yarn over again & pull up loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops (6 loops)

·        Step 6: Yarn over, draw yarn through all 6 loops on hook.

Crochet Hailey Doll Amigurumi Free Pattern

Arms

Make 2 – in skin tone.

Round 1: sc x 6 in MR (6)

Round 2: sc inc x 6 (12)

Round 3: (sc x 3, sc inc) x 3 (15)

Rounds 4-6: sc x 15 (15)

Round 7: sc x 7, bobble (see special stitches), sc x 7 (15)

Round 8: (sc x 1, sc dec) x 5 (10)

Round 9-20: sc x 10 (10)
Round 21: Stuff arms, leaving the top unstuffed. Sc x 5 across both sides of the top of the arm to close. FO & set aside for crocheting into the body.

Legs

Make 2 – in skin tone.

R1: Ch 6, sc x 1 in 2nd ch from hook, sc x 3, [sc x 3] in last ch, working on the opposite side of the ch, sc x 3, sc inc (12)

R2: Sc inc x 1, sc x 3, sc inc x 3, sc x 3, sc inc x 2 (18)

R3: (Sc x 2, sc inc) x 6 (24)

R4-6: Sc x 24 (24)

R7: Sc x 7, sc dec x 6, sc x 5 (18)

R8: Sc x 7, sc dec x 3, sc x 5 (15)

R9-19: Sc x 15 (15)
Round 20: Sc x 7 (7) Partial round.

Stuff and FO the 1st leg but not the 2nd. Instead change color to white, and continue to the body.

Body & Head

Continue from the 2nd leg – in white.
Stuff the body as you go.

R1: With feet facing away from you – ch 1, sc x 15 around the 1st leg, sc x 1 in ch 1, sc x 15 around the 2nd leg, sc x 1 in the other side of the ch 1 (32)

R2: (Sc x 7, sc inc) x 4 (36)

R3: Sc x 4, sc inc x 1, sc x 25, sc inc x 1, sc x 4, sc inc x 1 (39)

R4-8: Sc x 39 (39)

R9: Sc dec x 1, sc x 4, sc dec x 1, sc x 25, sc dec x 1, sc x 4 (36) Change to skin tone.

R10: Sc x 36 (36)

R11: (Sc x 4, sc dec) x 6 (30)

R12-14: Sc x 30 (30)

R15: (Sc x 3, sc dec) x 6 (24)
R16: Sc x 24 (24)

R17: Attach arms: Sc x 5, insert hook into the 1st st on the arm and the next st on the body & sc together, repeat x 4 sc the arm to the body (Make sure the thumbs are facing the right direction!), sc x 7 to other side of body, sc x 5 the 2nd arm to the body, sc x 2 (24)

R18: (Sc x 2, sc dec) x 6 (18)

R19: (Sc x 4, sc dec) x 3 (15)

Stuff body.

R20-21: Sc x 15 (15)

R22: sc inc x 15 (30)

R23: (Sc x 4, sc inc) x 6 (36)

R24: (Sc x 5, sc inc) x 6 (42)

R25: (Sc x 6, sc inc) x 6 (48)

R26-33: Sc x 48 (48)

R34: (Sc x 6, sc dec) x 6 (42)

Insert safety eyes between rows 30 & 31, 7 sts apart. Add eyelashes if desired using black embroidery floss.

R35: (Sc x 5, sc dec) x 6 (36)

R36: (Sc x 4, sc dec) x 6 (30)

R37: (Sc x 3, sc dec) x 6 (24)

R38: (Sc x 2, sc dec) x 6 (18)

R39: (Sc x 1, sc dec) x 6 (12)

R40: Sc dec x 6 (6)

FO, leaving a long tail for sewing. Whip stitch FLO & pull tight to close. Hide end.

Hair cap

Make 1 – in hair color.
R1: In MR, ch 2, dc x 9, slst join to 1st dc (9)

R2: Ch 2, dc inc x 9, join to 1st dc (18)

R3: Ch 2, (dc x 1, dc inc) x 9, join to 1st dc (27)

R4: Ch 2, (dc x 2, dc inc) x 9, join to 1st dc (36)

R5: Ch 2, (dc x 3, dc inc) x 9, join to 1st dc (45)

R6-8: Ch 2, dc x 45, join to 1st dc (45)

R9: Ch 1, sc x 1 in same st, sk 1, ([dc x 5], sk 1, sc x 1) x 11 (11 shells)
FO, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the hair cap to the head. Hide end.

Pigtails

Make 2 – in hair color.
R1: Sc x 6 in MR (6)

R2: (Slst x 1, ch 32, [dc x 3] in 3rd ch from hook and next 29 chs, sk 1) x 3, slst join to 1st sc (3 strands of hair)

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew to either side of the head at R4 of the hair cap.

You’re done!

I hope you have enjoyed making your doll as much as I enjoyed designing her.

More Amigurumi Doll Ideas:

Amigurumi Designer : Jessica Doering, Neogurumi

Materials:
– Worsted weight yarn – approximately 200 yards brown, 20 yards tan.
(I used Caron Simply Soft in the colors Chocolate and Bone.

• Suggested hook size: 3.25mm (D).
• 2 x 12mm safety eyes
• Black embroidery floss
• Poly-fil
• Yarn needle

My bear measures approximately 9” tall when made with the above materials.

You can use any weight yarn or thread that you are comfortable using, just adjust your hook size accordingly.

Stitch abbreviations:

Sc: single crochet

Hdc: half double crochet

Inc: increase

Dec: decrease

Sl st: slip stitch

Ch: chain

Crochet Bailey Bear Amigurumi Free Pattern

Arms

(Make 2 – starting in tan)

Round 1: sc x 6 in magic ring (6)

Round 2: sc inc x 6 (12)

Round 3: (sc x 3, sc inc) x 3 (15) Change to brown on the last st of this round.

Rounds 4-7: sc x 15 (15)

Round 8: (sc x 3, sc dec) x 3 (12)

Round 9-19: sc x 12 (12)

Stuff arms, leaving the top unstuffed.
Round 20: sc x 6 2 loops on top, closing the arm (6) 
Fasten off.

Legs

(Make 2 – starting in tan)

R1: Ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook, 3 sc, 3 sc in next st, 5 sc across other side of chain (12)

R2: sc inc x1, 3 sc, sc inc x3, 3 sc, sc inc x2 (18)

R3: (2 sc, sc inc) x6 (24) Change to brown on the last st of this round.

R4: 24 sc BLO (24)

R5-6: 24 sc (24)

R7: 6 sc, hdc dec x6, 6 sc (18)

R8: 6 sc, sc dec x3, 6 sc (15)

R9-19: 15 sc (15)

Stuff and fasten off the 1st leg but not the 2nd.

Body & Head

Stuff the body as you go.

R1: With feet facing towards you – start where you left off on the 2nd leg (if you are not in the center where the legs should be connected, sc however many will take you to the center stitch and then continue as written), Ch 1, 15 sc around the 1st leg, sc in ch 1, 15 sc around the 2nd leg, sc in other side of ch 1 (32)

R2: (7 sc, sc inc) x4 (36)

R3: 12 sc, sc inc, (4 sc, sc inc) x2, 13 sc (39)

R4-8: 39 sc (39)

R9: 14 sc, sc dec, (4 sc, sc dec) x2, 11 sc (36)

R10: 36 sc (36)

R11: (4 sc, sc dec) x6 (30)

R12-14: 30 sc (30)

R15: (3 sc, sc dec) x6 (24)

R16: Attach arms: 5 sc, sc top of one arm together with the next 6 sts, 6 sc to other side of body, 6 sc arm to body, 1 sc (24)
*NOTE – if you prefer to sew the arms on, sc 24 around body for row 16 and continue.

R17: (2 sc, sc dec) x6 (18)

R18: (4 sc, sc dec) x3 (15)

Stuff body.

R19: 15 sc (15)

R20: sc inc x15 (30)

R21: (4 sc, sc inc) x6 (36)

R22: (5 sc, sc inc) x6 (42)

R23: (6 sc, sc inc) x6 (48)

R24-31: 48 sc (48)

R32: (6 sc, dec) x6 (42)

Insert safety eyes between rows 29 & 30, 7 sts apart.

R33: (5 sc, sc dec) x6 (36)

R34: (4 sc, sc dec) x6 (30)

R35: (3 sc, sc dec) x6 (24)

R36: (2 sc, sc dec) x6 (18)

R37: (1 sc, sc dec) x6 (12)

R38: sc dec x6 (6)

Fasten off with tail. Stuff and close up head.

Muzzle

(Make 1 – in tan)

R1: Ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook, 3 sc, 3 sc in next st, 5 sc across other side of chain (12)

R2: sc inc x1, 3 sc, sc inc x3, 3 sc, sc inc x2 (18)

R3: (2 sc, sc inc) x6 (24) 
R4-5: 24 sc (24)
Fasten off with tail for sewing. Sew to the face, adding some stuffing before you close.
Embroider nose using black embroidery floss.

Ears

(Make 2 – in brown)

R1: sc x 6 in magic ring (6)

R2: sc inc x 6 (12)
R3: (1 sc, sc inc) x 6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, sc inc x 6 (24)
R5-7: 24 sc (24)
R8: (4 sc, sc dec) x 4 (20)
Fasten off with tail for sewing. Sew to the head on either side.

You’re done!

I hope you have enjoyed making your doll as much as I enjoyed designing her.

More Amigurumi Bear Ideas:

Materials:

– Worsted weight yarn – approx. 250 yards white, 20 yards hot pink, 50 yards hair color(s), scrap amount of yellow (I used Caron Simply Soft yarn in Snow (sparkle), Neon pink & Rainbow Bright)
– Suggested hook size: 3.25mm (D)
– 2 x 12mm safety eyes 
– Black embroidery floss
– Poly-fil

– Yarn needle

My unicorn measures approximately 9” tall (minus the horn) when made with the above materials.

You can use any weight yarn or thread that you are comfortable using. You do not need to use what I used for my doll, just adjust your hook size accordingly.

Stitch abbreviations:

Sc: single crochet

Inc: increase

Dec: decrease

Sl st: slip stitch

Ch: chain

BLO: back loops only

MR: magic ring

**Pattern is worked in continuous rounds unless noted otherwise.**

Twinkle the Unicorn Amigurumi Free Pattern

Arms

(Make 2- starting in hot pink)

R1: sc x 6 in MR (6)

R2: sc inc x 6 (12)

R3: (1 sc, sc inc) x 6 (18)

R4: 18 sc (18) Change to white on the last st of this round.

R5: 18 sc (18)

R6: (7 sc, sc dec) x 2 (16)

R7-9: 16 sc (16)

R10: (6 sc, sc dec) x 2 (14)

R11-12: 14 sc (14)

R13: (5 sc, sc dec) x 2 (12)

R14-15: 12 sc (12)

R16: (4 sc, sc dec) x 2 (10)

R17-18: 10 sc (10)

R19: (3 sc, sc dec) x2 (8)

R20: 8 sc

R21: Stuff arms, leaving the top unstuffed, 4 sc across both sides of the top of the arm to close

Fasten off.

Legs

(Make 2- starting in hot pink)

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)

R2: sc inc x 6 (12)

R3: (1 sc, sc inc) x6 (18)

R4: (2 sc, sc inc) x 6 (24)

R5: 24 sc BLO (24)

R6: 24 sc (24) Change to white on the last st of this round.

R7: 24 sc (24)

R8: (10 sc, sc dec) x 2 (22)

R9: 22 sc (22)

R10: (9 sc, sc dec) x 2 (20)

R11: 20 sc (20)

R12: (8 sc, sc dec) x 2 (18)

R13: 18 sc (18)

R14: (7 sc, sc dec) x 2 (16)

R15: 16 sc (16)

R16: (6 sc, sc dec) x 2 (14)

R17: 14 sc (14)

R18: (5 sc, sc dec) x 2 (12)

R19: 12 sc (12)

Stuff and fasten off the 1^st leg but not the 2^nd.

Body

Stuff the body as you go.

R1: Joining the legs – Starting where you left off on the 2^nd leg, ch 3, 12 sc around the 1^st leg, 1 sc in each ch 3, 12 sc around the remaining stitches of the 2^nd leg, sc in other side of each ch 3 (30)

R2: (4 sc, sc inc) x 6 (36)

R3: 3 sc, sc inc, 25 sc, sc inc, 4 sc, sc inc, 1 sc (39)

R4-9: 39 sc (39)

R10: 4 sc, sc dec, 25 sc, sc dec, 4 sc, sc dec (36)

R11-13: 36 sc (36)

R14: (4 sc, sc dec) x 6 (30)

R15-17: 30 sc (30)

R18: (3 sc, sc dec) x 6 (24)

R19: Attaching the arms: 7 sc (or until you are in the correct place to start joining the 1^st arm), sc into one stitch on the arm and one stitch on the body, joining them together, repeat joining next 3 arm stitches to next 3 stitches on body; 8 sc over to the other side of the body, then sc x 4 joining the 2^nd arm to the next 4 stitches on the body; sc in remaining sts on body. (24)

R20: (2 sc, sc dec) x 6 (18)

R21-22: 18 sc (18)

Stuff body and continue on to the head.

Head

Stuff the head as you go.

R1: (1 sc, sc inc) x 9 (27)

R2: (2 sc, sc inc) x 9 (36)

R3: (5 sc, sc inc) x 6 (42)

R4: (6 sc, sc inc) x 6 (48)

R5-13: 48 sc (48)

R14: (6 sc, sc dec) x 6 (42)

R15: (5 sc, sc dec) x 6 (36)

R16: (4 sc, sc dec) x 6 (30)

R17: (3 sc, sc dec) x 6 (24)

Insert safety eyes between R10-11, 8 sts apart. Embroider eyelashes.

R18: (2 sc, sc dec) x 6 (18)

R19: (1 sc, sc dec) x 6 (12)

Finish stuffing head.

R20: sc dec x 6 (6)

Fasten off and close up head. Weave in ends.

Muzzle

(Make 1 – in white)

R1: Ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook, 3 sc, [sc x 3] in next st, 5 sc across other side of chain (12)

R2: sc inc x1, 3 sc, sc inc x3, 3 sc, sc inc x2 (18)

R3: (2 sc, sc inc) x6 (24)

R4-9: 24 sc (24)

Fasten off with long tail for sewing. Sew to the face, under the eyes, add stuffing before closing.

Ears

(Make 2 – in white)

R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

R2: 6 sc (6)
R3: sc inc x 6 (12)

R4: (3 sc, sc inc) x 3 (15)

R5-7: 15 sc (15)

R8: (3 sc, sc dec) x 3 (12)

R9: (2 sc, sc dec) x 3 (9)

Fasten off with long tail. Flatten ears (do not stuff) and sew to the head as pictured.

Horn

(Make 1 – in yellow)

R1: 4 sc in magic ring (4)

R2: (1 sc, sc inc) x 2 (6)

R3: 6 sc (6)

R4: (2 sc, sc inc) x 2 (8)

R5: 8 sc (8)
R6: (3 sc, sc inc) x 2 (10)

R7: 10 sc (10)

R8: (4 sc, sc inc) x 2 (12)

R9-12: 12 sc (12)

Fasten off with tail. Stuff and sew to the head.

Curls

(Make 16 – in choice of colors)

R1: Ch 41, 2 sc in 2^nd ch from hook and next 39 chs (80)

Fasten off with tail. Sew 12 down the head for the mane – in 2 rows of 6. Sew 4 to the body for the tail.

You’re done!

I hope you have enjoyed making your doll as much as I enjoyed designing her.

More Amigurumi Unicorn Ideas:

Materials needed:

– Worsted weight yarn – 40 yards skin tone, 30 yards green, 40 yards pink, scrap amount of coral

– Suggested yarn: Caron Simply Soft in the colors Light Country Peach (skin tone), Mint (tail), Neon Pink (hair), and Neon Coral (top).

– 3.25mm (D) hook

Other materials needed:

– 7.5mm safety eyes

– Yarn needle

– Poly-fil

– Black embroidery floss

– Blush

When made with the suggested yarn, Mia will be approximately 9” long.

Stitch abbreviations:

Ch: Chain

MR: magic ring

Sl st: slip stitch

St(s): stitch(es)

Sc: single crochet

Inc: single crochet inc (most common in amigurumi), but can also be Hdc inc or Dc inc.

Dec: single crochet dec (most common in amigurumi), but can also be Hdc dec or Dc dec

Hdc: Half double crochet

Dc: double crochet

(): repeat same stitches

FLO: crochet in front loop only

BLO: crochet in back loop only

FO: fasten off

Mia the Amigurumi Mermaid Crochet Free Pattern

Special stitches

3 dc puff stitch: Yarn over, insert hook into st, yarn over, draw back through the st. Repeat 2 more times in same st. Yarn over, draw through all 7 loops on hook. Ch 1 to close.

Arms

(Make 2 – in skin tone)

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)

R2: (1 sc, sc inc) x 3 (9)

R3-4: 9 sc (9)

R5: (1 sc, sc dec) x 3 (6)

R6-13: 6 sc (6)

Fasten off and stuff.

Fins

(Make 2 – in green)

R1: 4 sc in MR (4)

R2: (1 sc, sc inc) x 2 (6)

R3: (1 sc, sc inc) x 3 (9)

R4: (2 sc, sc inc) x 3 (12)

R5-7: 12 sc (12)

R8: (1 sc, sc dec) x 4 (8)

R9: (2 sc, sc dec) x 2 (6)

Fasten off 1^stbut not the 2^nd. Do not stuff. Move on to the body.

Body & Head

Stuff body and head as you go.

R1: Holding fins side by side, ch 1, then 6 sc across both sides of fins, closing them and joining them together.

R2: Working on both sides of sc x 6 from the previous round, ch 1, 2 sc, sc dec, 4 sc, sc dec, 2 sc (10)

R3: 10 sc (10)

R4: (4 sc, sc inc) x 2 (12)

R5: 12 sc (12)

R6: (3 sc, sc inc) x 3 (15)

R7-8: 15 sc (15)

R9: (4 sc, sc inc) x 3 (18)

R10: 18 sc (18)
R11: (5 sc, sc inc) x 3 (21)

R12: (6 sc, sc inc) x 3 (24)

R13-16: 24 sc (24)

R17: (6 sc, sc dec) x 3 (21) Change to skin tone in the last stitch of this round.

R18: 21 sl st BLO

R19: 21 sc BLO

R20: (5 sc, sc dec) x 3 (18)

R21: 18 sc (18)

R22: (4 sc, sc dec) x 3 (15)

R23-27: 15 sc (15)

R28: 6 sc, sc dec, 7 sc (14)

R29: Join arms: 2 sc (adjust placement if necessary), insert hook into 1 st on arm and then into next st on body, sc together; repeat 2 sc next 2 sts on arm to next 2 sts on body, 4 sc, repeat joining the 2^nd arm by sc 3 sts on arm to next 3 sts on body, 2 sc (14)

R30: Working around body plus the outer unworked 3 sts on each arm: 14 sc (14)

R31: (5 sc, sc dec) x 2 (12)

R32: (1 sc, sc dec) x 4 (8)

R33: 8 sc (8)

R34: sc inc x 8 (16)
R35: (1 sc, sc inc) x 8 (24)

R36: (3 sc, sc inc) x 6 (30)

R37-43: 30 sc (30)

Insert safety eyes between R40 & 41, 6 sts apart. Embroider eyelashes.

R44: (3 sc, sc dec) x 6 (24)

R45: (2 sc, sc dec) x 6 (18)
R46: (1 sc, sc dec) x 6 (12)

R47: sc dec x 6 (6)

Finish stuffing and close up head. Add blush to cheeks.

Flower top

Make 2 flowers – in coral

Round 1: In MR, (ch 2, sl st back to MR) X 5.

Fasten off with tail and sew 2 flowers to chest area. Weave in ends.

Top of tail

Step 1: Attach green yarn to FLO on left of front center stitch of R17: 1 sc, 1 hdc, 16 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc, 1 sl st, sl st to 1^st sc.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Hair cap

Make 1 – in hot pink

*Note – the beginning ch 1 of each round does not count as a stitch.

R1: Ch 1, 9 hdc in MR, sl st join to 1^st hdc (9)
R2: Ch 1, hdc inc x 9, join to 1^st hdc (18)

R3: Ch 1, (1 hdc, hdc inc) x 9, join to 1^st hdc (27)

R4-6: Ch 1, 27 hdc, join to 1^st hdc (27)

R7: Ch 1, 27 hdc (27)

R8: 1 sl st, 4 dc, 1 hdc, ch 21, (1 sc, sc inc) x 10 up the chain (30), 16 hdc, ch 1, (1 sc, sc inc) x 0 up the chain (30), 1 hdc, 4 dc, 1 sl st.

Fasten off with long tail. Sew to the head.

Hair bun

R1: Ch 2, 6 puff sts in MR, join to 1^st puff st (6)

R2: Ch 2, 2 puff sts in each puff st, sk ch 1s between sts, join to 1^st puff st (12)

R3: Ch 2, (1 puff st in 1st puff st, 2 puff sts in next puff st) x 6, join to 1^st puff st (18)
R4: Ch 2, 18 puff sts, join to 1^st puff st (18)

R5: Working in only the puff sts, and skipping the chs between them, Ch 1, (1 hdc, hdc dec) x 6, join to 1^st hdc (12)

Fasten off with long tail. Sew to the head/hair cap.

You’re done!

I hope you have enjoyed making your doll as much as I enjoyed designing her. Please feel free to contact me if you need any assistance with this pattern.

More Amigurumi Mermaid Ideas: