Materials You Need
– Worsted-weight yarn (4-ply) in any color plus a small amount of pink, black, and white. (The U.K. equivalent is Aran, and AUS/NZ is 8 ply.) For the kitty in the step-by-step photos, I used Hobby Lobby’s Print I Love This Yarn in the color “Quarry Days“. I also used I Love This Yarn in the colors “Black” and “White” for my black and white kitties.
– G (4 mm) crochet hook
– 12 mm black safety eyes
– Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice) 
– Bent tip tapestry needle
– Scissors 
– Stitch marker 
– Straight pins

Abbreviation Key
Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.

sc – single crochet
st/sts – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch
dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
R1 – round 1
rep – repeat
** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.

Amigurumi Crochet Mini Black Cat Free Pattern:

Head (using any color)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6 sts) (you can use the magic circle/ring if you prefer as it won’t make a difference in the end. Watch this video to see how to start crocheting in the round using the “ch 2 method”.)
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7: *sc 5, inc* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R8: *sc 6, inc* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R9: *sc 7, inc* rep 6 times (54 sts)
R10-12: sc in all 54 sts (3 rounds total at 54 sts each)
R13: *sc 8, inc* rep 6 times (60 sts)
R14-20: sc in all 60 sts (7 rounds total at 60 sts each)
R21: *sc 8, dec* rep 6 times (54 sts)
R22: *sc 7, dec* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R23: *sc 6, dec* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R24: *sc 5, dec* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R25: *sc 4, dec* rep 6 times (30 sts)

Adding the Eyes
Stop and insert your 12 mm safety eyes between R18 and 19, spaced 10 stitches apart (Hint: Insert the first eye. Count 10 stitches from the hole where you inserted the first eye and insert the second eye. There should be 8 visible stitches between the two eyes).

Now, we will embroider the yarn details around the safety eyes. Take some white yarn (or any contrasting color) and embroider a straight stitch under each eye. You’ll want it to be about 3 sts wide and about one stitch less than halfway around the eye. There should be slightly more white stitch toward the outside of the eye than the inside.

Now, take some black yarn and insert your needle in the same hole you started your white stitch at, toward the outside of the eye. Make a straight stitch across half of the eye. I found that my black stitch wouldn’t stay above the eye without falling, so I added a small loop stitch in the middle to tack it down. See the below photo collage for an example.

Adding the Mouth and Whiskers
Now for the mouth, using pink yarn, embroider two angled stitches, like a “V” centered between the eyes over R18 of the head. Make a small stitch below the “V” to complete the mouth.

Let’s embroider the whiskers. About one stitch away from the eye, between R19 and 20 of the head, embroider a stitch about 4 stitches wide straight across. Then make another, angled stitch for the second whisker. The end of the second whisker should be about 2 rounds down from the first whisker. Repeat for the opposite side of the face. I used black yarn for my whiskers but you could use any contrasting color.

Start to stuff the head, continuing to stuff it as you go.
R26: *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R27: *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R28: *sc 1, dec* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R29: *dec* rep 6 times (6 sts)
Finish off and weave in ends.

Body
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6-13: sc in all 30 sts (8 rounds total at 30 sts each)
R14: *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R15: *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R16: sc in all 18 sts (18 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the body firmly.

Position the body to the bottom center of the head and pin it into place using straight pins. Sew the body to the head using the whipstitch. When you are finished, make a knot to secure your sewing and weave the remaining tail into the head to finish.

Ears (make 2)
R1: ch 2, 4 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (4 sts)
R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 2 times (6 sts)
R3: *sc 2, inc* rep 2 times (8 sts)
R4: *sc 3, inc* rep 2 times (10 sts)
R5: *sc 4, inc* rep 2 times (12 sts)
R6: *sc 5, inc* rep 2 times (14 sts)
R7: *sc 6, inc* rep 2 times (16 sts)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Instead, flatten the ear, then sew the open end closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing. Watch this video to learn how to sew the open ends closed on a crocheted piece.

Position the ears to the head over R7-14 approximately, making the corners of the ears curve in just a bit. Pin them into place using straight pins. Sew the ears to the head using the whipstitch. When you are finished, make a knot to secure your sewing and weave the remaining tails into the head to finish.

Thighs (make 2)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4-6: sc in all 18 sts (3 rounds total at 18 sts each)
Finish off leaving long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Fold the thighs in half and sew the open ends closed just like we did for the ears.

Flatten the thighs and position them to either side of the body. Because the thighs are slightly curved when flattened, you’ll sew the corners of the thighs to R6 & 7 of the body and the bottom edge of the thigh to R5. Pin the thighs into place using straight pins once you have them positioned.

Sew the thighs to the body using the whipstitch. When you finish sewing the corners and bottom edge of the thigh to the body, weave your needle to the top of the thigh and sew down several stitches from the top of the thigh to the body (see the last two images in the collage below). This will firmly secure it to the body without having to sew all the way around the thigh and lose its puffy shape.

Feet (make 2)
R1: ch 2, 5 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (5 sts)
R2-4: sc in all 5 sts (3 rounds total at 5 sts each)

Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing. There is no need to stuff. Sew the open ends closed like we did for the ears. Position the feet on the underside of the body, centered over the space between the body and thighs. When she’s sitting upright, you’ll want about two rounds of the feet sticking out from under the thighs. Pin the feet into place using straight pins. Sew the back flat edge of each foot to the body and and thigh. When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tails into the body to finish.

Arms (make 2)
R1: ch 2, 5 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (5 sts)
R2-5: sc in all 5 sts (4 rounds total at 5 sts each)
(If you feel like the arms are too short for your kitty, add 1-2 more rounds to make them a bit longer.)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. There’s no need to stuff.

On each arm, sew the open ends closed to create a flat edge for sewing like we did with the ears. Position the arms over R8-9 of the body so that they are at a slight angle and spaced two stitches apart at the top of the arms. Sew the arms to the body using the whipstitch. When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tails into the body to finish.

Take a bit of matching yarn and sew the tips of the paws. To do this, pull the yarn and needle through both paws, go over one stitch from where the needle came out on his right arm, and bring the yarn back through both paws. Repeat this until you are satisfied it’s secure. Once you are finished, weave in both ends.

Tail
R1: ch 2, 5 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (5 sts)
R2-19: sc in all 5 sts (18 rounds total—5 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. There’s no need to stuff the tail.

Position the tail over R3-6 of the body so that it rests on the ground and assists your kitty in sitting up when she’s sitting on a flat surface. Set your cat on a flat surface to make sure it is positioned correctly. Sew to the back of the body using the whipstitch. When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the body.

Congratulations!!!

More Amigurumi Cat Ideas:

Materials:
1. Any yarn: YarnArt Jeans 50g / 160m
2. Hook size 2,5 mm
3. Stuffing material
4.Scissors, needle and marker. 5. Eyes 5 mm

Abbreviations:
mc = magic circle
ch = chain
sc = single crochet (x stitch)
ss = slip stitch
inc = 2 sc in the next stitch
dec = single crochet 2 stitches together
(12) = number of stitches you should have at the end of the round/row
(…)*6 = repeat whatever is between the brackets the number of times stated
F.o. = fasten off

Amigurumi Crochet Cat Keychain Free Pattern:

Head:
Milk yarn
Make 14 ch, start with the second loop from the hook.
1: 12 sc, inc, 12 sc (26)
2-5: 26 sc
6: (11 sc, dec)*2 (24) (22 sc , 2 sc )
7: 24 sc (2 sc, 8 sc, 14 sc)
8: (4 sc, dec)*4 (20) (3 sc, 5 sc, 12 sc)
9: (3 sc, dec)*4 (16) (4 sc, 2 sc, 10 sc)
10: (2 sc, dec)* 4 (12) (3 sc, 2 sc, 7 sc)
Stuff.
Milk yarn
11: (dec)*6 (6)
Stuff and tighten 6 stitches

Ears (2 pcs): Red yarn
1: 6 sc in mc
2: (inc, 2 sc)*2 (8)
3: (3 sc, inc)*2 (10)
Cut yarn and leave a long tail fo sew.
Fold the ear in half and sew, then sew to the head.

Insert eyes between 6 and 7 rows at a distance of 4 sc. Fix eyes with glue.
With a black thread, embroider a nose between 6 and 5 rows and a whiskers.
Apply blush to the cheek area.

More Amigurumi Cat Keychain Ideas:

Materials
–  Yarn: Himalaya Dolphin Baby
– Hook: 4.5 mm
– Yarn for a muzzle: Alize Softy (in two threads)
– Size: 22 cm

Abbreviations
sc : Single Crochet
inc : Increase
dec : Decrease
st: Stitch
sl-st : Slip Stitch
ch : Chain

First, we crochet the head, body and legs of the amigurumi cat toy.

Amigurumi Crochet Plush Cat Misty Free Pattern:

Head, Body and Legs
Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
Rnd 2: (inc) repeat 6 times (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (18)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (24)
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (30)
Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (36)
Rnd 7-10: 36 sc (4 rnds)
Rnd 11: (4 sc, dec) repeat 6 times (30)
Rnd 12: 30 sc
Rnd 13: (3 sc, dec) repeat 6 times (24)
Rnd 14: (2 sc, dec) repeat 6 times (18)
Rnd 15: (1 sc, dec) repeat 6 times (12)
Rnd 16: (1 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (18)
Rnd 17: 18 sc
Rnd 18: (2 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (24)
Rnd 19: (7 sc, inc) repeat 3 times (27)
Rnd 20: 27 sc
Rnd 21: (8 sc, inc) repeat 3 times (30)
Rnd 22: (9 sc, inc) repeat 3 times (33)
Rnd 23-28: 33 sc (6 rnds)
Rnd 29: (9 sc, dec) repeat 3 times (30)
Rnd 30: (8 sc, dec) repeat 3 times (27)
Rnd 31: 27 sc
Rnd 32: (7 sc, dec) repeat 3 times (24)

Begin to crochet the first leg:
Rnd 33: 10 sc, joining in a ring with sl st (10)
Rnd 34-37: 10 sc (4 rnds)
Rnd 38: (dec) repeat 5 times (5)

Stay 2 stitch between legs. Crochet the second leg. Than sew the hole (2 st) between legs.
Now let’s make the arms of the amigurumi cat. Let’s crochet the arms of the amigurumi cat toy carefully.

Arms (x2)
Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
Rnd 2: (inc) repeat 6 times (12)
Rnd 3: 12 sc
Rnd 4: dec*3, 6 sc (9)
Rnd 5-10: 9 sc (6 rnds)
Rnd 11: dec, 7 sc (8)
Fold top of arm flat and 4 sc through both sides across.
After crocheting the ears of the amigurumi kitten, we will make a tiny tail.

Ears (x2)
Rnd 1: 5 sc in Magic Ring (5)
Rnd 2: (inc) repeat 5 times (10)
Rnd 3: (4 sc, inc) repeat 2 times (12)
Rnd 4: 12 sc
We make the tail of the amigurumi cat.

Tail
Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
Rnd 2: (2 sc, inc) repeat 2 times (8)
Rnd 3-12: 8 sc (10 rnds)
Fold top of tail flat and 4 sc through both sides across.
Now, finally, we are crocheting the muzzle part of the amigurumi  toy.

Muzzle
Rnd 1: 3 ch, from the second ch from hook: 1 sc, 3 sc in next stitch, 1 sc in next stitch, 3 sc in next stitch (8)
Rnd 2: (1 sc, 3 inc) repeat 2 times (14)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) repeat 7 times (21)
Rnd 4-5: 21 sc (2 rnds)

That’s it! Amigurumi cat toy is ready!
More Amigurumi Cat Ideas:

Materials
– 1 skein of plush yarn (Himalaya Dolphin Baby 100g / 120 m), 1 skein was enough for me, but it’s better to have a a margin of another 10-15 meters.
– Alize Softy half hank, for belly
– hook number 4
– eyes 12 mm
– filler
– black and pink floss threads (for spout and antennae)
– white sewing threads (for sewing details)
– sewing needle
– yarn for clothes

Abbreviations
sc : Single Crochet
inc : Increase
dec : Decrease
st: Stitch
hdc: Half Double Crochet
sl-st : Slip Stitch
ch : Chain
..in : make increase into same stitch as many as the number which is given in front of “inc” abbreviation (exp; 3inc, 4inc..).
FLO : Crochet into front loops only
BLO : Crochet into back loops only

Amigurumi Crochet Plush Green Cat Free Pattern:

Head
1 Rnd: 6 sc in MR
2 Rnd: 6 inc (12)
3 Rnd: (1 sc, inc)*6 (18)
4 Rnd: (2 sc, inc)*6 (24)
5 Rnd: (3 sc, inc)*6 (30)
6 Rnd: (4 sc, inc)*6 (36)
7 Rnd: (5 sc,inc)*6 (42)
8 Rnd: (6 sc, inc)*6 (48)
9 Rnd: (7 sc, inc)*6 (54)
10-15 Rnd: 54 sc (6 rnds)
Between 11-12 rows insert eyes between them 1-2 sc.
16 Rnd: (7 sc, dec)*6 (48)
17 Rnd: (6 sc, dec)* 6 (42)
18 Rnd: (5 sc, dec)*6 (36)
19 Rnd: (4 sc, dec)*6(30)
20 Rnd: (3 sc, dec)*6 (24)
21 Rnd: (4 sc, dec)*4 (20)
Fasten the thread and cut.
We stuff the head as we crochet.

Ears
1 Rnd: 6 sc in MR
2 Rnd.( 1 sc, inc)*3 (9)
3 Rnd: (2 sc, inc)*3 (12)
4 Rnd: (3 sc, inc)*3 (15)
5 Rnd: (4 sc, inc)*3 (18)
6 Rnd: 18 sc (18)
Fold the part in half and crochet 8 sc for both side. Fasten the thread and cut.
Similarly, we crochet the second ear.

Arms
1 Rnd: 6 sc in MR
2 Rnd: 6 inc (12)
3-5 Rnd: 12 sc (3 rnds)
6 Rnd: (2 sc, dec)*3 (9)
7-13 Rnd: 9 sc (7 rnds)
We stuff the arm as we crochet. Bigger at the bottom, smaller towards the shoulder.
Fold the part in half and crochet 4 sc for both side. Fasten the thread and cut. We crochet the second arm in the same way.

Tail
1 Rnd: 6 sc in MR
2-7 Rnd: 6 sc (6 rnds)
Fasten the thread and cut.
Do not stuff the tail. We will then tie it into the body.

Legs
1 Rnd: 6 sc in MR
2 Rnd: 6 inc (12)
3 Rnd: (1 sc, inc)*6 (18)
4-7 Rnd: 18 sc (4 rnds)
Fasten the thread and cut.
Similarly, we crochet the second leg, but we do not cut the thread, but we make the slst and 4 ch, we attach the second leg with the help of the slst. We put a marker at the beginning of the row.

Body
8 Rnd: 18 sc (on the left leg), 4 sc in chain, 18 sc (on the right leg), 4 sc in chain (44)
The marker goes on the back.
We fill tightly with HOLLOFIBER.
9 Rnd: 44 sc
10 Rnd: inc, 8 sc, inc, 7 sc, 6 inc, 7 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc, 4 sc (54)
ATTENTION! You may have other values. Increases are located behind the chain between the ch, on the sides and tummy.
11 Rnd: 54 sc
In the next row we will crochet a tail. The tail is located exactly between the legs. Focus on your crocheting. Make bias loops if needed.
12 Rnd: 51 sc, 3 sc along with the tail (54)
13-18 Rnd: 54 sc (6 rnds)
19 Rnd: (7 sc, dec)*6 (48)
20 Rnd: 48 sc
Do not forget to fill with holofiber.
21 Rnd: (6 sc, dec)*6 (42)
22 Rnd: 42 sc
23 Rnd: (5 sc, dec)*6 (36)
24 Rnd: 36 sc
25 Rnd: (4 sc, dec)*6 (30)
26 Rnd: 30 sc
27 Rnd: (3 sc, dec)*6 (24)

In the next row we will crochet handles. The handles are symmetrical.
28 Rnd: 5 sc, 4 sc along with a arm, 8 sc , 4 sc along with a arm, 3 sc. (24)
29 Rnd: (4 sc, dec)*4 (20)
Fasten the thread and cut.
WE FILL TIGHTLY WITH HOLOFIBER.

Tummy
We crochet with Alize Softy yarn in one thread, hook number 2.
We make
15 ch.
1 Rnd: In the second from the hook we make sc, 12 sc, in the last loop of the row we make 3 sc, 12 sc on the other side, inc in the last loop. We put a marker, here will be the beginning of the row. (30)
2 Rnd: inc, 12 sc, 3 inc, 12 sc, 2 inc (36)
3 Rnd: (1 sc, inc), 12 sc, (1 sc, inc)*3, 12 sc, (1 sc,inc)*2 (42)
4 Rnd: (2 sc, inc), 12 sc, (2 sc, inc)*3, 12 sc, (2 sc,inc)*2 (48)
5 Rnd: (3 sc, inc), 12 sc, (3 sc, inc)*3, 12 sc, (3 sc,inc)*2 (54)
6 Rnd: (4 sc, inc), 12 sc, (4 sc, inc)*3, 12 sc, (4 sc,inc)*2 (60)
7 Rnd: (5 sc, inc), 12 sc, (5 sc, inc)*3, 12 sc, (5 sc,inc)*2 (66)
Fasten the thread, leave a long end for sewing. But you can sew on with sewing thread.

Be sure to sample! If it seems to you that the belly is small / large, you can crochet / shorten a few rows.

We apply the Belly in the center of the tummy. Pre-fix with needles. We sew.
We make out the nose under the eyes at a distance of 1-2 sc.

We embroider the antennae with threads, I have them 7 sc in length.
Eyebrows are arranged symmetrically to each other.
We do it at our discretion.

We sew on the ears and head, stuff the neck area very tightly with holofiber.

More Amigurumi Cat Ideas:

Materials
• Any yarn you like. I used Himalaya Dolphin Baby (and Alize Velluto, when I was doing the second Kitty) in white, pink and a little bit of yellow.
• You’ll also need some lighter weight yarn in black.
• crochet hook, I used 4,5mm (HDB) and 6mm (Alize Velluto) hook
• safety eyes
• stuffing
• stitch marker
• scissors
• sewing needle

Abbreviations
MR – magic ring
SC – single crochet
INC – increase
DEC – decrease
CH – chain
DC – double crochet
DC INC – two double crochet in one stitch

Amigurumi Crochet Plush Hello Kitty Free Pattern:

Head
work with white
1. 8sc in MR
2. (1sc, 1inc) x4 (12)
3. (2sc, 1inc) x4 (16)
4. (2sc, 1inc) x4 (24)
5. (3sc, 1inc) x6 (30)
6. (4sc, 1inc) x6 (36)
7. (5sc, 1inc) x6 (42)
8 -13. sc around (42) (6 rounds)
insert safety eyes between round 10 and 11, about 6 stitches apart
14. (5sc, dec) x6 (36)
15. (4sc, dec) x6
Fasten off with a slip stitch and leave a tail for sewing. Stuff the head.

Body
Work with white
Start with legs (rnds 1-7) – FO the 1st leg but not the second one
1. 6sc in MR (6)
2. 6inc (12)
3 – 7. around (12) (5 rounds)
8. 12sc, 2sc on the 1st side of ch, 12sc, 2sc on the other side of ch (28)
9. 3sc, 1 inc, (6sc, 1 inc) x3, 3sc (32)
Change to color to pink
11 – 12. sc around (32)
13. BLO: sc around (32)
14. 7sc, dec, (14sc, dec), 7sc (30)
15. sc around (30)
16. 6sc, dec, (5sc, dec) x2, 6sc, dec (26)
17. 5sc, dec, (4sc, dec) x2, 5sc, dec (22)
18. 4sc, dec, (3sc, dec) x2, 4sc, dec (18)
19. sc around (18)
FO with a slip stitch and stuff the body.

Dress

Work with pink
Insert your hook into round 13, now you are working in FLO.
1-2. (3dc inc ,1 dc) x8
If you want to make your dress longer, make one more round the same way as previous.

Ears (make 2)
work with white
4sc in MR (4)
(1 sc, 1 inc) x2 (6)
(1 sc, 1 inc) x3 (9)
(2 sc, 1 inc) x3 (12)
sc around (12)
Do not stuff.
Fold the ear in half and single crochet across the last round to close the opening, leave a long tail for sewing.

Arms (make 2)
Work with white
1. 4sc in MR (4)
2. 4inc (8)
3. sc around (8)
CHANGE COLOR TO PINK
4- 7. sc around (8) (5 rounds)
Do not stuff. Fold the arm in half and single crochet across the last round to close the opening, leave a long tail for sewing.

Tail
Work with white
1. 4sc in MR (4)
2. 4inc (8)
3. sc around (8)
4. sc around (8)
FO with a slip stitch

Bow
Work with pink
1. ch11 (11)
2. starting from the 2nd chain from the hook 10hdc, ch1 and turn (10)
3. 10hdc, ch1 and turn (10)
4. 10sc (10)
FO with a slip stitch. Cut the yarn.
Cut the extra piece of yarn and tie it in the middle of the rectangle you made. You should have a bow.

Assembly
Make the nose using yellow yarn
Sew kitty’s whiskers. First do a middle one, than insert one above and one under. Do it on both sides.
Sew kitty’s ears on either side of the head, between rows 3 and 9.
Sew the bow under right ear.
Sew the head to the body.
Sew the arms right under the head.
Sew the tail between rows 14 and 16.


More Amigurumi Hello Kitty Ideas:

MATERIALS AND SUPPLIES
• Size of the toy, crocheted with the recommended yarn is approximately 15 cm.
• This toy was made of 100% mercerized cotton yarn, 50g/125m: Schachenmayr Catania Originals: white and pink for embroidering the details, and black.
• crochet hook: size 2,5
• 2 pieces of 10 mm safety eyes
• fiber filling, scissors, big tapestry needle for sewing details together
• 2 strands of chenille wire
You’ll need these colors to make the doll, but feel free to choose any colors you like!

ABBREVIATIONS
I use US terms in all my English crochet patterns.
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
sl st – slip stitch
inc – increase
dec – decrease
• The toy is worked in continuous rounds – do not join after each round.
• If you feel it is necessary, use stitch marker to follow the lines.
• Using invisible decreases makes the toy more beautiful.

Amigurumi Black Cat Figaro Free Pattern:

HEAD AND BODY
Start: make a magic ring with black yarn.
1. 6 sc into a magic ring (6)
2. inc*6 (12)
3. (sc, inc)*6 (18)
4. (2 sc, inc)*6 (24)
5. (3 sc, inc)*6 (30)
6. 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)*5, 2 sc (36)
7. (5 sc, inc)*6 (42)
8. 3 sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*5, 3 sc (48)
9. (7 sc, inc)*6 (54)
10-21. sc into every sts across (12 rows) (54)
22. (7 sc, dec)*6 (48)
23. 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec)*5, 3 sc (42)
24. (5 sc, dec)*6 (36)
Insert safety eyes between rows 19-20, 12 sts apart from each other.
25. 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec)*5, 2 sc (30)
Stuff the toy.
26. (3 sc, dec)*6 (24)
27. (2 sc, dec)*6 (18)
28-29. sc in every sts across (2 rows) (18)
30. (2 sc, inc) 6 (24)
31. (3 sc, inc) 6 (30)
32. sc into every sts across (30)
33. 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)*5, 2 sc (36)
34. (5 sc, inc)*6 (42)
35. sc into every sts across (42)
36. 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc)*5, 3 sc (48)
37-42. sc into every sts across (48) (6 rows)
43. 3 sc, dec, (ósc, dec)*5, 3 sc (42)
44. (5 sc, dec)*6 (36)
45. 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec)*5, 2 sc (30)
Stuff the toy.
46. (3 sc, dec) 6 (24)
47. (2sc, dec)*6 (18)
48. (sc, dec)*6 (12)
49. dec*6 (6)
Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Embroidering the eyes
With white yarn embroider the eyes, as shown on the pictures.

EARS – make two pieces
Start: with black yarn make a magic ring.
1. 6 sc into a magic ring (6)
2. (sc, inc)*3 (9)
3. sc into every sts across (9)
4. (2 sc, inc)*3 (12)
5. sc into every sts across (12) 6. (3 sc, inc)*3 (15)
7. sc into every sts (15)
8. (4 sc, inc)*3 (18)
9. sc into every sts across (18)
10. (5 sc, inc)*3 (21)
11. sc into every sts across (21)
12. (6 sc, inc)*3 (24)
13. Fold int half, crochet together with 12 sc (12)

Cut the yarn, leave a long tail for sewing.
Pin the ears to the head between rows 4-9, sew it.

TAIL
Start: with black yarn make a magic ring.
1. 6 sc into a magic ring (6)
2. (sc, inc)*3 (9)
3-34. sc into every sts across (9) (32 rounds)
Twist two strands of chenille wire to a size that will fit the tail, insert it. Sew the tail to the cat.

EMBROIDERING THE NOSE
Mark the position for the nose and fill it. Once the nose is complete, embroider the mouth, following the details shown in the pictures.

BACK LEGS – make two pieces
Start: with black yarn make a magic ring.
1. 6 sc into a magic ring (6)
2. inc*6 (12)
3-4. sc into every sts across (12) (2 rounds)
5. dec*6 (6)
6. Fold in half, and crochet together with 2 sc.
Cut the yarn, and leave a long tail for sewing.

FRONT LEGS – make two pieces
Start: with black yarn make a magic ring.
1. 6 sc into a magic ring (6)
2-9. sc into every sts across (6) (8 rounds)
Cut the yarn, and leave a long tail for sewing.
Sew the legs to the body. Pin the front legs starting from the 37th row of the body, and sew
them. Pin the back legs to the bottom of the cat in the marked places, and sew them.

Congratulations, you’ve finished your cat. Hope you enjoyed it!
More Amigurumi Cat Ideas:

Materials:
These are the materials that I used but please feel free to use anything that works for you.
• Alize softy yarn
– brown (head, body, arms and legs)
– preferred accent color (cat hat)
• 2.5mm hook
• Darning needle
• Stuffing
• Scissors
• Stitch markers
• Dark brown felt for the face
• Fabric glue or hot glue
• Pink blush/eyeshadow

Abbreviations:
• Mr: magic ring
• R: round
• Sc: single crochet
• Inc: increase
• Dec: invisible decrease
• BLO: back loop only
• Ch: chain
• Fo: fasten off
• St(s): stitch(es)
• (…): st count
• (…)x #: repeat the instruction in the brackets # times

Amigurumi Crochet Yumi the Cat Keychain Free Pattern:

The whole cat except for the hat is made in one color. I used brown for demonstration but you can use your preferred color.

Head
R1: 8sc in mr (8)
R2: 8inc (16)
R3: (sc, inc) repeat 8 times (24)
R4: (3sc, inc) repeat 6 times (30)
R5-8: sc around (30) 4 rounds)
R9: (3sc, dec) repeat 6 times (24)
If you’re using safety eyes, insert them between R6;7, about 4 sts apart.
Fo, no need to leave a tail.
Stuff fully.

Body
R1: 8sc in mr (8)
R2: (sc, inc) repeat 4 times (12)
R3: (sc, inc) repeat 6 times (18)
R4: (sc, inc, sc) repeat 6 times (24)
R5: (3sc, inc) repeat 6 times (30)
R6: in BLO: sc around (30)
R7-9: sc around (30) (3 rounds}
R10: (3sc, dec) repeat 6 times (24)
R11: sc around (24)
Fo, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Stuff lightly so the bottom remains flat.
Sew the body using the tail to R9 of the head.

Arms x2
R1: 7sc in mr (7)
R2-4: sc around (7) {3 rounds}
fo, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Stuff fully.
Sew onto R8-10 of the body, about 10sts apart.

Legs x2
R1: 5sc in mr (5)
R2: 5inc (10)
R3: in BLO: sc around (10)
R4: sc around (10)
Fo, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Stuff the legs lightly so the bottom remains flat.
Sew onto RI-5 of the body, right next to each other.

Hat
(I used thin chenille yarn in blue for demonstration because you can see the sts clearer, but the cat in the reference picture was made using Alize softy.)

Ears x2
Make in blue or preferred accent color
R1: 6sc in mr (6)
R2: (sc, inc, sc) repeat 2 times (8)
R3: (3sc, inc) repeat 2 times (10)
R4: (2sc, inc, 2sc) repeat 2 times (12)
R5: (3sc, inc) repeat 3 times (15)
R6: (sc, inc, sc) repeat 5 times (20)
R7: sc around (20)
Sl st and fo the first ear, leave a short tail. Repeat R1-7 for the second ear but do NOT fo. No need to stuff.

Main part
Make in blue or preferred color
The second ear should currently be still on your hook. Insert your hook into any st of first ear from the inside and the next st of the second ear from the outside and complete a sc through both to join. Repeat 4 more times so you have 5 connecting sc.

We will now crochet AROUND the ears so skip the 5 connecting sts.
R8: sc around (30)
R9: 9sc -> we will not finish this round!

Now we will start working in rows.
R10: chi, turn, 8sc, 2inc, 8sc (20)
You should have 12 unworked sts left at the front.
R11: ch1, turn, 20sc (20)
R12: ch1, turn, (3sc, dec) repeat 4 times (16)
If your hat reaches the bottom of the head, continue with the front border. If it does not, continue with R13.

R13: ch1, turn, 16sc (16)
Repeat R13 1-2 more times if the hat still isn’t long enough.

Front border

We will create a border around the front for a cleaner look.
You can skip this step if you are already happy with the shape of your hat.
If you used R13 of the main part once or multiple times, increase the sc on the sides accordingly.
R1: 4sc on on one side, (5sc, 2inc, 5sc) on on the top side, 4sc on the other side (20)
Fo, leaving a long tail.

Attach a new piece of blue yarn onto the other edge of the hat.
Then tie a bow at the front, using the tail of the hat and the new piece of yarn.

Tip: If you want to use your Yumi as a Keychain you can glue the hat onto the head.

Face Details
Using dark brown felt:
• cut out 2 oval shapes for the eyes
• cut out 4 stripes for the whiskers
Glue the eyes onto R6-7, about 4 st apart.
Glue the whiskers onto R647 on each side of the eyes. Lastly add some pink blush to the cheeks.
Alternatively you can use brown yarn to embroider the face.

Congratulations
You finished making your very own Yumi the cat! I hope you enjoyed making her.

More Amigurumi Cat Ideas:

Materials
– Yarnart Jeans (160m/50g) no:07, no:46 (Yarn #2 fine)
– Crochet hook 2mm
– Eyes 7mm
– Hllowfiber
– Black sewing thread
– White yarn for embroidering eyes
– Needle

ABBREVIATIONS
MR – magic ring Sc-single crochet
inc – increase
dec – invisible decrease
ch – chain stitch
slst – slip stitch
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
BPSC – back post single crochet
bo – bobble stitch – 5 unfinished double crochet stitches together
picot – 2 ch, crochet 1 slst in the first ch
*3inc – 3 sc in 1 st
FLO – front loop only

Amigurumi Crochet Cat in the Box Free Pattern:

Body
Marker in the middle of the back.
Stuff as you go.
1) 8 sc in MR
2) 8 inc (16)
3) (1 sc, inc)*8 (24)
4) 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*7, 1 sc (32)
5) 4 sc, bo, 8 sc, bo, 4 sc, bo, 8 sc, bo, 4 sc (32)
6) 32 sc, ch 10, starting with the 2nd chain from the hook: 2 slst, 3 sc, 4 hdc (32)
7) 32 sc

8) 4 sc, dec, 7 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 7 sc, dec, 4 sc (32)
9) 3 sc, dec, 22 sc, dec, 3 sc (30)
10) dec, 26 sc, dec (28)
11) 10 sc, 4 dec, 10 sc (24)
12) (dec, 1 sc)*3, 6 sc, (1 sc, dec)*3 (18)
13) 18 sc
14) (1 sc, dec)*6 (12)

Head
15) FLO 12 inc (24)
16) (inc, 1 sc)*12 (36)
17-20) 36 sc (4 rounds)
Center the marker. Crochet some shift stitches if you need.
21) 10 sc, 3 dec, 4 sc, 3 dec, 10 sc (30)
22-24) 30 sc (3 rounds)
25) (3 sc, dec)*6 (24)
Insert safety eyes between the rounds 22 and 23, leaving 5 sc between them.
26) (2 sc, dec)*6 (18)
27) (1 sc, dec)*6 (12)
28) 6 dec
Fasten off, close the hole and hide the yarn in the body.

Ears
Crochet the right ear.
Connect the yarn between the 23rd and 24th rows on 4 sc to the right of the eye, fasten with a chain.
1) 1 sc
2) 1 dc, picot, 1 dc
3) 1 sc
Fasten off and hide the yarn ends in the body.
Repeat symmetrically to make the left ear.

Tightening of the eyes.
Take a 30cm/12 inches piece of the main colour yarn.
Insert the needle into p.1 between the 14th and 15th rows, leaving a 10 CM/4 inches tail, come out in p.2, insert the needle into p.3 and exit it in p.1. Insert the needle one stitch to the left from p.1 and repeat the same actions as with the first eye. Pull the ends of the yarn well, fasten it with a knot and hide yarn tails

Tightening of a muzzle. Take a 30cm/12 inches yarn piece of the main colour yarn. Insert the needle in p.1 on the top of the head, exit it in p.2 between the 14th and 15th rows. Insert in p.3 in the center between the eyes (between the 21st and 22nd rows), exit it in p.1. Pull yarn ends to indent the muzzle, tie some knots and hide yarn ends.
Embroider the whites of the eyes with white yarn. With black thread, embroider the eyelashes, eyebrows, nose and whiskers.

BOX
1) 8 sc in MR, slst (8)
2) ch, (*3inc, sc)*4, slst (16)
3) ch, 2 sc, (*3inc, 3 sc)*3, *3inc, sc, slst (24)
4) ch, 3 sc, (*3inc, 5 sc)*3, *3inc, 2 sc, slst (32)
5) ch, 4 sc, (*3inc, 7 sc)*3, *3inc, 3 sc, slst (40)
6) ch, 5 sc, (*3inc, 9 sc)*3, *3inc, 4 sc, slst (48)
7) ch, 6 sc, (*3inc, 11 sc)*3, *3inc, 5 sc, slst (56)
8) ch, 56 BPSC, slst (you can replace it with crocheting for the back loops)
9) ch, 56 sc, slst
10) ch, 6 sc, (dec, 12 sc)*3, dec, 6 sc, slst (52)
11-15) ch, 52 sc, slst (5 rounds)
Finish crocheting and hide the yarn end.

Select 12 stitches on each side of the box to crochet the flaps. There is one free loop in the corner between them.
Attach the yarn and crochet:
1) FLO 12 sc, turn
2-3) ch, 12 sc, turn
4) ch, 12 sc
Finish crocheting, hide the yarn end and repeat for each side of the box.
You can straighten the box valves with an iron.

Congratulations. Your toy is ready!
More Amigurumi Cat Ideas:

Materials
Yarn: YarnArt Dolce
Hook size: 5.00 mm
Stuffing material
Scissors
Stitch Markers

Abbreviations
sc : Single Crochet
inc : Increase
dec : Decrease
st: Stitch
ch : Chain

First we crochet the head of the crocheted kitty. Then it’s time for the legs.

Amigurumi White Plush Cat Norry Free Pattern:

Head
R 1: 6sc in Magic Ring (6)
R 2: inc x 6 times (12)
R 3: (1 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (18)
R 4: (2 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (24)
R 5: (3 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (30)
R 6: (4 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (36)
R 7: (5 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (42)
R 8-12: 42 sc
R 13: (5 sc, dec) repeat 6 times (36)
R 14: (4 sc, dec) repeat 6 times (30)
R 15: (3 sc, dec) repeat 6 times (24)
R 16: (2 sc, dec) repeat 6 times (18)
Fasten off.

We crocheted the head of the toy and now it’s time for the legs. Let’s crochet the legs of the toy.

Legs and Body
Legs (make 2)
R 1: 6sc in Magic Ring (6)
R 2: inc x 6 times (12)
R 3-6: 12 sc
Fasten off and cut the yarn on the first leg.
Don’t cut the yarn on the second leg!
From second leg: 2 ch, join the first leg.

We will crochet body in the round:
R 1: 11 sc on the first leg, inc, sc in next 2 ch, 11 sc on the second leg, inc, sc in next 2 ch (opposite side) (30)
R 2: 10 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 11 sc (33)
R 3-10: 33 sc
R 11: (9 sc, dec) repeat 3 times (30)
R 12: 30 sc
R 13: (3 sc, dec) repeat 6 times (24)
R 14: 24 sc
R 15: (2 sc, dec) repeat 6 times (18)
Fasten off.

After crocheting the head and body of the toy, you can join these pieces if you wish. Now let’s make the arms of the white cat.

Arms (make 2)
R 1: 6sc in Magic Ring (6)
R 2: (1 sc, inc) repeat 3 times (9)
R 3: inc, 8 sc (10)
R 4-6: 10 sc
R 7: (dec, 3 sc) repeat 2 times (8)
R 8-10: 8 sc

After crocheting the arms of the kitty, there are two more pieces left. If you have time, let’s crochet the cat’s little ears now.

Ears (make 2)
R 1: 6sc in Magic Ring (6)
R 2: inc x 6 times (12)
R 3: 12 sc
R 4: (2 sc, inc) repeat 4 times (16)
R 5: (3 sc, inc) repeat 4 times (20)

Finally, we crochet the kitten’s tiny tail and complete the toy.

Tail
R 1: 6sc in Magic Ring (6)
R 2: (1 sc, inc) repeat 3 times (9)
R 3-5: 9 sc
R 6: dec, 7 sc (8)
R 7: 8 sc
R 8: dec, 6 sc (7)
R 9-11: 7 sc
Staff the top of the tail. Fold top of leg flat and sc through both sides across.

Now you need to assemble and sew all the parts of the toy. Then your toy will be ready.
More Amigurumi Cat Ideas:

Materials
• Yarn (I used Premier Parfait Chunky)
• Main color (white)
• Bow color (pink)
• Hook (I used 4.5mm)
• Yarn needle
• Stuffing
• Stitch marker
• Scissors
• 1 of the following! • Safety eyes
• Sinker eyes
• Felt (glue, pencil and paper for stensil)

Abbreviations
• ch-chain
• slst-slip stitch
• sc-single crochet
• inc-increase
• dec– decrease
• fo-finish off
• dc inc – 2 double crochets in 1 stitch
• hdc – half double crochet

Amigurumi Fancy Cat with a Bowtie-Shaped Collar Free Pattern:

Head
R1 6SC in MR (6)
R2 INC around (12)
R3 (SC, INC) repeat 6 times (18)
R4 SC around (18)
R5 (2SC, INC) repeat 6 times (24)
R6 SC around (24)
R7 (3SC, INC) repeat 6 times (30)
R8 SC around (30)
R9 6SC, 3INC, 12SC, 3INC, 6SC (36)
R10 SC around (36)
R11 7SC, 3DEC, 10SC, 3DEC, 7SC (30)
R12 (3SC, DEC) repeat 6 times (24)
= Attach eyes around R8-9, and beware of where the front of the face is (cheek pockets on both sides).
= Start stuffing. Stretch and shape the fabric so the top of the head is not pointy, especially when using chenille yarn. Make sure you stuff the cheek pockets.
R13 (2SC, DEC) repeat 6 times (18)
F/O, and leave a long tail to sew. Do not close the hole!

Arms (make 2)
R1 5SC in MR (5)
R2 21NC, 3SC (7)
R3 SC around (7)
R4 DEC, 5SC (6)
= Fill the arms as you go.
R5-7 SC around (6) <3 rows>
R8 4SC to align the yarn tail to the side of the arm.
May need to adjust depending on your tension! (6)
R9 3SC through both sides of the round to shut the arm (3)
F/O. No need for a sewing tail

Hair
R1 Surface crochet 4SC in a circle at top of head (4)
R2 SC around (4)
R3 INC around (8)
R4 4SC, 2DEC (6)
R5 DEC around (3)
F/O and leave enough tail to close hole.

Legs (make 2)
R1 Ch4
R2 starting from the 2nd chain from the hook, 2SC, <3SC in the last stitch>, turn to work on the other side of the chain, SC, INC (8) < should be oval shape
R3 (SC, INC) repeat 4 times (12)
R4 3SC, 2DEC, 3SC, DEC (9)
R5 3SC, 2DEC, 2SC (7)
R6 (SC, INC) repeat 3 times, SC (10)
R7 (2SC, INC) repeat 3 times, SC (13)
F/O and leave a long tail to sew. Stuff legs.

Ears (make 2)
R1 4SC in MR (4)
R2 INC around (8)
R3 (3SC, INC) repeat 2 times (10)
R4 (4SC, INC) repeat 2 times (12)
F/O and leave a long tail to sew.

Tail
Stuff lightly as you go.
R1 4SC in MR (4)
R2 (SC, INC) repeat 2 times (6)
R3 21NC, 4SC (8)
R4 (3SC, INC) repeat 2 times (10)
R5-7 SC around (10)
<3 rows>
R8 (3SC, DEC) repeat 2 times (8)
R9 DEC around (4)
F/O and leave a long tail to sew. Do not close hole.

Body
R1 6SC in MR (6)
R2 INC around (12)
R3 (SC, INC) repeat 6 times (18)
R4 (2SC, INC) repeat 6 times (24)
R5 10SC, (SC, INC) repeat 2 times, 10SC (26)
R6-7 SC around (26) <2 rows>
R8 10SC, (SC, DEC) repeat 2 times, 10SC (24)
R9 (2SC, DEC) repeat 6 times (18)
= In the <bold> stitches you will attach the arms by inserting your hook through the stitches on the arms. first, then through the stitches on the body. Start stuffing, and stuff as you go.
R10 15SC, <3SC> (18)
R11 SC, <3SC>, 14SC (18)
R12 SC around (18)
R13 (SC, DEC) repeat 6 times (12)
R14 DEC around (6)
F/O and leave a long tail to sew if you didn’t for the head. Close the hole shut.

Head bow
R1 8SC in MR (8)
R2 – 3DC INC, slst, 3DC INC, slst (6)
F/O and leave a long tail to sew.
The 2 Slst will be the center of the bow. Use the yarn tail to scrunch the middle of the bow, then wrap the yarn around the center 3-4 times.
You can leave the bow as is to sew, OR attach more yarn and chain the circumference of her hair to create a hair band

Large bow
Piece 1
R1 – Ch35
R2 SC into the 1st chain to create a loop, 34SC (35)
R3-8 35HDC (35) <6 rows>
F/O and weave in the tail.

Piece 2
R1 – Ch4
R2 – SC into 2nd chain from the hook, 2SC, turn (3)<< no need to ch1 before turning but you can if you’d like to!
R3-17 SC across, turn (3)

<15 rows>
>> Adjust so the band wraps around the center of piece 1 to sinch
R18 – Ch1, instead of turning, 2SC along the side of the band.
= This will be the start of your collar
R19-48 turn, 2SC (2) <30 rows>
Adjust so the collar reaches around Marie’s neck
F/O and leave a medium length tail to sew the collar closed.

In the end, piece 2 should look like a large “L” shape

Assembly
The body will be slightly slanted forward, so keep that in mind when assembling
Ears
stuff lightly and sew onto each side of the head, 4 rows wide (R3-4, 8-9)

Head
• sew the head slightly behind the last round of the body
• I like to tilt the body until the arms touch the floor, and attach the head to wherever it sits straight

Legs
Sew 4-5 visible stitches apart (they will be facing slightly outwards)
• 4 rows high (R3-4, 7-8)
• make sure the toes are pointing up

Tail
sew onto the body 2 rows wide (R6-8). The curve should be facing up!

Head bow
Sew onto the hair, or if you created a band, squeeze it through the hair

Large bow
1. With some yarn, sinch the middle of piece 1 to create a bow, and tighten with a knot.
2. Take piece 2, and wrap the thicker side of the band around the center of piece 1, and sew the band closed.
3. Make sure the thinner band is aligned with the middle of the bow. You now have a bow with a unattached collar.
4. Wrap the thin band around Marie’s neck, and use the yarn tail to attach it back behind the bow.

Facial Parts
Mouth
1. Embroider an upside-down V shape around R11
2. On the same row as the tip of the V, embroider a nose 2 stitches wide. I embroidered around 3-4 strands!

Eyes
if you are using felt for the eyes, cut them out and attach them around R9-10

ref: Here are the shapes I cut out for the eyes:

More Amigurumi Cat Ideas: