This Amigurumi Panda crochet pattern creates a soft, huggable plush toy with classic panda colors, rounded shapes, and expressive facial details.
Designed for plush yarn lovers, this pattern is ideal for crocheters who want to make a large, high-quality amigurumi animal suitable for gifts, room decor, or selling finished items.

📏 FINISHED SIZE

Approx. 30 cm (12 inches) tall
(Size may vary depending on yarn type, hook size, and tension.)

🧶 MATERIALS

• Bulky / velvet / chenille yarn (#5 weight recommended)
  • Color A: Black (main details)
  • Color B: White (body & head)
• Small amount of thinner black and white yarn (facial embroidery)
• Crochet hook: 4.0 mm (G)
• Polyester fiberfill stuffing
• Yarn needle (long)
• Stitch markers
• Safety eyes: 2 × 15 mm

📌 ABBREVIATIONS (US TERMS)

• st / sts – stitch / stitches
• ch – chain
• sl st – slip stitch
• sc – single crochet
• inc – increase (2 sc in one stitch)
• dec – decrease (single crochet 2 together)
• BLO – back loop only
• FLO – front loop only
• (…) – stitch count at end of round

Pattern is worked in continuous rounds unless stated otherwise.

🐾 ARMS (Make 2)

Start with black yarn

Ch 6.

Round 1:
Starting in 2nd ch from hook, working in back loops only:
inc, 3 sc, inc.
Continue on opposite side of chain: inc, 3 sc, inc. (14)

Round 2:
inc, 5 sc, inc, inc, 5 sc, inc. (18)

Rounds 3–8:
sc around (18)

Rounds 9–16:
Each round: dec once, then sc to end of round, reducing by 1 stitch each round until 10 sts remain.

Lightly stuff.
Fold opening flat and seam closed with sc through both layers.
Fasten off and hide yarn.

🐾 LEGS (Make 2)

Round 1: 7 sc in MR (7)
Round 2: inc around (14)
Round 3: (inc, sc) around (21)
Round 4: (sc, inc, sc) around (28)
Round 5: BLO – (3 sc, inc, 3 sc) around (32)
Rounds 6–7: sc around (32)
Round 8: (3 sc, dec, 3 sc) around (28)
Round 9: 10 sc, 4 dec, 10 sc (24)
Round 10: 8 sc, 4 dec, 8 sc (20)
Rounds 11–22: sc around (20)

Stuff firmly at bottom, lightly toward top.
Fasten off and continue to body.

🐼 BODY

Place legs side by side, fronts facing away.

Round 1:
Join yarn through both inner leg stitches.
sc around left leg (20), continue to right leg and sc around (20). (40)

Switch to white yarn.

Round 2: sl st around (40)
Round 3: BLO – (inc, 3 sc) around (50)
Rounds 4–12: sc around (50)
Round 13: (4 sc, dec, 4 sc) around (45)
Round 14: sc around (45)
Round 15: (dec, 7 sc) around (40)
Round 16: sc around (40)

Switch to black yarn.

Round 17: sl st in BLO around (40)
Round 18: BLO – (3 sc, dec, 3 sc) around (35)
Round 19: sc around (35)
Round 20: (dec, 5 sc) around (30)

Mark stitch placement for arms.

Round 21:
Attach arms while sc around (30)

Round 22: (dec, 3 sc) around (24)

Stuff body firmly.

🐼 HEAD

Switch to white yarn.

Round 23: sl st in BLO around (24)
Round 24: BLO – (sc, inc, sc) around (32)
Round 25: (inc, 3 sc) around (40)
Round 26: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) around (48)
Round 27: (inc, 11 sc) around (52)
Rounds 28–38: sc around (52)
Round 39: (dec, 11 sc) around (48)
Round 40: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) around (40)
Round 41: (dec, 3 sc) around (32)
Round 42: (sc, dec, sc) around (24)

Insert eyes.
Stuff head firmly.

Round 43: (dec, sc) around (16)
Round 44: dec around (8)

Close opening, fasten off, hide yarn.

👃 SNOUT

With white yarn, ch 4.

Round 1:
From 2nd ch: inc, sc, inc.
Opposite side: inc, sc, inc. (10)

Round 2: 2 inc, sc, 4 inc, sc, 2 inc (18)
Round 3: Expand evenly to 26 sts
Rounds 4–5: sc around (26)

Lightly stuff and sew to face.

👂 EARS (Make 2)

Ch 4 with black yarn.

Round 1: inc, sc, inc on both sides (10)
Round 2: inc, 3 sc, 2 inc, 3 sc, inc (14)
Round 3: inc, 5 sc, 2 inc, 5 sc, inc (18)
Rounds 4–5: sc around (18)

Fold flat, seam closed, sew to head.

👁️ EYE PATCHES (Make 2)

Ch 5 with black yarn.

Round 1: inc, 2 sc, inc on both sides (12)
Round 2: Shape with clusters and decreases to form oval.

Attach safety eyes through patches, then sew patches to face.

✨ FACIAL DETAILS

• Embroider nose with black yarn
• Outline eyes lightly with white yarn
• Add mouth and eyebrows with thin black yarn
• Gently sculpt face by tightening stitches beneath eyes

🐾 TAIL

Round 1: 6 sc in MR
Round 2: inc around (12)
Rounds 3–5: sc around (12)

Flatten, seam closed, and sew to back of body.

📜 COPYRIGHT & USAGE

This is an original rewritten pattern prepared for
amigurumi.badoomobile.net

✔ You may sell finished panda toys
❌ You may not sell or redistribute this pattern

Please credit amigurumi.badoomobile.net when sharing finished items.

🎨 Finished Amigurumi Panda– Color Variations and Accesories

This cute teddy bear wearing non-removable pants is crocheted mostly in one piece, making it sturdy, beginner-friendly, and perfect as a handmade gift or nursery decor.
The bear has a soft, rounded shape with simple details and clean color transitions.

When made with the recommended materials, the finished teddy bear measures approximately 19 cm (7.5 inches) tall, excluding the ears.

📌 Pattern Information

• Skill level: Beginner to Intermediate
• Construction: Legs, body, and head worked in one piece
• Pants: Integrated (non-removable)
• Language: US crochet terms

🧶 Materials

• Yarn: YarnArt Jeans (55% cotton / 45% acrylic, 160 m / 50 g)
  • Main color (bear)
  • Pants color
  • White (muzzle)
• Hook: 3.0 mm
• Safety eyes: 9 mm
• Fiberfill stuffing
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors
• Optional: small decorative button

✂️ Abbreviations (US Terms)

• MR – Magic Ring
• ch – chain
• sl st – slip stitch
• sc – single crochet
• inc – increase (2 sc in one stitch)
• dec – decrease (sc 2 together)
• BLO – back loop only
• FLO – front loop only
• ( ) – stitch count at end of round
• * – repeat instructions

🐻 Arms (make 2)

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc × 6 (12)
R3: (1 sc, inc) × 6 (18)
R4–7: 18 sc (4 rounds)
R8: (4 sc, dec) × 3 (15)
R9–10: 15 sc (2 rounds)
R11: (3 sc, dec) × 3 (12)
R12–13: 12 sc (2 rounds)
R14: (4 sc, dec) × 2 (10)

Stuff the arms lightly (about ⅔ full).
Fold the top flat and crochet across both sides to close.
Fasten off and set aside.

🦵 Legs, Body & Head (Worked in One Piece)

Legs (make 2)

With main color:

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc × 6 (12)
R3: (1 sc, inc) × 6 (18)
R4: (5 sc, inc) × 3 (21)
R5: (6 sc, inc) × 3 (24)
R6: (7 sc, inc) × 3 (27)

Change to pants color:

R7–9: 27 sc (3 rounds)

Fasten off only the first leg.
Do not cut yarn on the second leg.

Joining Legs & Body

From the second leg, chain 3 and join to the first leg.

R10:

• 27 sc around first leg
• 3 sc into chains
• 27 sc around second leg
• 3 sc into chains (60)

R11: (27 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc) × 2 (64)
R12: 64 sc
R13: (31 sc, inc) × 2 (66)
R14–17: 66 sc (4 rounds)
R18: (9 sc, dec) × 6 (60)
R19–20: 60 sc (2 rounds)
R21: (8 sc, dec) × 6 (54)

Slip stitch and cut pants yarn.

Upper Body (Main Color)

Attach main color yarn at the back of the body.

R22: (7 sc, dec) × 6 (48)
R23: BLO – 48 sc
R24: 48 sc
R25: (6 sc, dec) × 6 (42)
R26: 42 sc
R27: (5 sc, dec) × 6 (36)
R28: 36 sc
R29: (4 sc, dec) × 6 (30)
R30: (3 sc, dec) × 6 (24)
R31–32: 24 sc (2 rounds)

Attach Arms

R33: Attach arms on the sides while crocheting
(2 sc, dec) × 6 (18)

Head

R34: inc × 18 (36)
R35: (5 sc, inc) × 6 (42)
R36: (6 sc, inc) × 6 (48)
R37: (7 sc, inc) × 6 (54)
R38: (8 sc, inc) × 6 (60)
R39: (9 sc, inc) × 6 (66)
R40: (10 sc, inc) × 6 (72)
R41–48: 72 sc (8 rounds)

Insert safety eyes between R44 and R45, spacing evenly.

R49: (10 sc, dec) × 6 (66)
R50: (9 sc, dec) × 6 (60)
R51: (8 sc, dec) × 6 (54)
R52: (7 sc, dec) × 6 (48)
R53: (6 sc, dec) × 6 (42)
R54: (5 sc, dec) × 6 (36)
R55: (4 sc, dec) × 6 (30)
R56: (3 sc, dec) × 6 (24)
R57: (2 sc, dec) × 6 (18)
R58: (1 sc, dec) × 6 (12)
R59: dec × 6 (6)

Stuff firmly.
Fasten off and close opening.

👂 Ears (make 2)

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc × 6 (12)
R3: (3 sc, inc) × 3 (15)
R4: (4 sc, inc) × 3 (18)
R5–7: 18 sc (3 rounds)

Fasten off, leave long tail for sewing.

👃 Muzzle

With white yarn:

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc × 6 (12)
R3: (1 sc, inc) × 6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) × 6, 1 sc, sl st

Fasten off, leave tail.
Embroider nose with black yarn.

👖 Pants Strap

Attach pants color yarn to the front loop of Round 23, slightly off-center.

R1: FLO – sc in each stitch around, sl st
Do not cut yarn.

Chain 28–30 (adjust as needed).
Attach strap to the front of pants with sl st.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Sew a small button to the front for decoration.

✨ Finishing

• Sew ears to the sides of the head
• Sew muzzle centered below the eyes
• Weave in all loose ends

Your teddy bear in pants is now complete 🧸💙

© COPYRIGHT & USAGE

This pattern is written exclusively for amigurumi.badoomobile.net.
You may sell finished toys made from this pattern.
Please do not redistribute or resell the pattern itself.

🎨 Finished Amigurumi Teddy Bear in Pants– Color Variations and Accesories

🧶 Materials

• Sport / DK weight yarn
  • Beige (main color)
  • Multicolor or pastel yarn (pants / details)
  • White (muzzle)
• 2.0 mm crochet hook
• Polyester fiberfill
• Black embroidery thread (eyes & nose)
• Yarn needle & stitch marker

✂️ Abbreviations (US Terms)

• MR – magic ring
• sc – single crochet
• inc – increase (2 sc in one stitch)
• dec – decrease (sc2tog)
• sl st – slip stitch
• ch – chain
• ( ) x n – repeat n times
• – stitch count

🧸 Arms (make 2)

Work with beige yarn.

R1: 6 sc in MR [6]
R2: inc x 6 [12]
R3: (2 sc, inc) x 4 [16]
R4–5: 16 sc
R6: (2 sc, dec) x 4 [12]
Change to multicolor yarn
R7–11: 12 sc
Lightly stuff the arm.
Fold flat and sc across to close.
Fasten off, leave tail for sewing.

🧸 Legs (make 2)

Work with multicolor yarn.

R1: 6 sc in MR [6]
R2: inc x 6 [12]
R3: (sc, inc) x 6 [18]
R4–6: 18 sc
R7: (4 sc, dec) x 3 [15]
R8–9: 15 sc
Stuff lightly.

Fasten off first leg.
Do NOT cut yarn on second leg.

🧸 Body

Join legs:

R10: ch 3, join to first leg, 15 sc around first leg, 3 sc in chains, 15 sc around second leg, 3 sc in chains [36]
R11: (5 sc, inc) x 6 [42]
R12–16: 42 sc
R17: (5 sc, dec) x 6 [36]
R18: (4 sc, dec) x 6 [30]
Stuff body firmly.

Change to beige yarn.

🧸 Head

Continue in beige.

R19: inc x 30 [60]
R20–24: 60 sc
R25: (8 sc, dec) x 6 [54]
R26: (7 sc, dec) x 6 [48]
R27: (6 sc, dec) x 6 [42]
R28: (5 sc, dec) x 6 [36]
R29: (4 sc, dec) x 6 [30]
R30: (3 sc, dec) x 6 [24]
R31: (2 sc, dec) x 6 [18]
R32: (sc, dec) x 6 [12]
R33: dec x 6 [6]

Stuff head well, close and hide yarn.

🤍 Muzzle

With white yarn:

R1: 6 sc in MR [6]
R2: inc x 6 [12]
R3: (sc, inc) x 6 [18]

Fasten off.
Sew muzzle to face between rounds 8–12.

🧵 Facial Details

• Embroider a small triangle nose
• Stitch curved sleepy eyes
• Add tiny eyebrows
• Optional: blush cheeks with pink powder

👂 Ears (make 2)

With beige yarn:

R1: 6 sc in MR [6]
R2: inc x 6 [12]
R3: (sc, inc) x 6 [18]

Flatten, do not stuff.
Sew to head between R13–17.

🐻 Tail

R1: 6 sc in MR [6]
R2: (sc, inc) x 3 [9]
R3: 9 sc

Lightly stuff and sew on back.

🎀 Bow / Ribbon

With multicolor yarn:

Into MR:
(ch 3, 3 dc, ch 3, sl st) x 2

Tighten ring, wrap center, sew near ear.

🌙 Finished Size

Approx. 18–20 cm depending on yarn and hook size.

🎨 Finished Amigurumi Sleepy Baby Bear – Color Variations

MATERIALS
– Worsted-weight yarn (4-ply) in white and one other color for the scarf. (The U.K. equivalent is Aran, and AUS/NZ is 8 ply.) For my polar bear, I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in the color “White” and “Rosy Cheeks” for the scarf.
– F (3.75 mm) crochet hook
– 9 mm black safety eyes
– Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice) 
– Bent tip tapestry needle
– Scissors 
– Stitch marker 
– Straight pins
– Black embroidery thread

ABBREVIATION
Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.
sc – single crochet
st/sts – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch
dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
R1 – round 1
rep – repeat
** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.

Amigurumi Crochet Mini Polar Bear Free Pattern:

Head (Using White Yarn)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 6 (6 sts) (you can use the magic circle if you prefer as it won’t make a difference in the end. In that case you will make a magic circle and make 6 sc in the magic circle. Watch how I make the “ch 2 method”. )
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7-12: sc in all 36 sts (6 rounds total at 36 sts each)
R13: *inc* rep 6 times, sc 12, *inc* rep 6 times, sc 12 (48 sts)
R14: *sc 2, inc* rep 4 times, sc 12, *sc 2, inc* rep 4 times, sc 12 (56 sts)
R15: sc in all 56 sts around (56 sts)
R16: *sc 2, dec* rep 4 times, sc 12, *sc 2, dec* rep 4 times, sc 12 (48 sts)
R17: *dec* rep 6 times, sc 12, *dec* rep 6 times, sc 12 (36 sts)
R18: *sc 4, dec* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R19: *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R20: *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts)
Finish off leaving a short tail.

Eyes and Stuffing
Insert your 9 mm safety eyes between R13 & 14 of the head spaced 9 sts apart (Hint: Insert the 1st eye. Count 9 sts from the hole where you inserted the 1st eye and insert the 2nd eye. There should be 7 visible sts between the two eyes). Make sure that the eyes are evenly centered between the cheeks.

Stuff the head firmly, paying extra attention to the shape of the cheeks. Do not sew up the opening of the head and leave the tail until we sew the body on. Set the head aside until we make the muzzle.

Muzzle (Using White Yarn)
R1: ch 5, starting in 2^nd ch from hook, make 1 sc in each of the 4 chs, now rotate your work 180 degrees and work in the front loops of the ch, starting in the first front loop, inc 1, sc 2, inc 1 (10 sts)

This is called starting your work with a foundation chain and is a great way to start a piece you want to be more oval than round. After crocheting through the top loops of the chain, you turn your work upside down so that the sts you just crocheted are at the bottom and the front or bottom loops of the chain are now at the top. These are the sts you will now work into. Once you’re at the end of the row, the first round is complete! Now you just continue as you normally would working in the round.

R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 5 times (15 sts)
R3-4: sc in all 15 sts (2 rounds total at 15 sts each)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Embroidering the Nose
We will now embroider the nose. Take a long piece of black embroidery thread and thread a sharp sewing needle.

To embroider the nose, we will first make the outline and then fill it in with horizontal stitches. First, make the top stitch. It will be between R1 & 2 of the muzzle, 3-4 stitches wide. Make sure this first stitch is centered and straight. Now, embroider the two side stitches so that you have a triangle.

Now, we will fill the nose in with horizontal stitches.

When you reach the end, some white yarn might be showing through on the sides (see first image in the collage photo below). In this case, just make one or two more vertical stitches on the sides to cover up any white showing through. Finally, make a small straight stitch right below the bottom of the nose, about one stitch long. Make a knot on the back of the muzzle to secure the embroidery and then cut the thread.

Position the muzzle over the front of the head, between the eyes. Pin it into place using straight pins to keep it in place.

Using the long tail we left and your tapestry needle, sew the muzzle to the front of the head using the whipstitch. Make sure to stop and check frequently as you are sewing to make sure that the muzzle is still straight and the nose is centered.

When you are almost finished sewing the muzzle on, add a little stuffing. When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the head.

Ears (Make 2 Using White Yarn)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 6 (6 sts)
R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 3 times (9 sts)
R3: *sc 2, inc* rep 3 times (12 sts)
R4: sc in all 12 sts (12 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.

We will not stuff the ears. Instead, flatten them, and then, for each ear, sew the open ends closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing.

We will now sew the ears to the sides of the head. Position the ears on either side of the head, evenly centered, and pin them in place using straight pins.
You will position the ears to be over R6-12 of the head. Sew the ear to the head using the whipstitch. Sew all the way around each ear. When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining ends into the head.

Body (Using White Yarn)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 6 (6 sts)
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5-9: sc in all 24 sts (5 rounds total at 24 sts each)
R10: *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R11: sc in all 18 sts (18 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Stuff the body firmly. Since both the last round of the head and the last round of the body have 18 sts, the two pieces will line up perfectly.
Using the whipstitch, sew the two pieces together. When you are about three-fourths of the way around, you might want to add a little more stuffing to the neck to make it sturdier.
When finished, knot the finishing tail from the head that we left to the remaining sewing tail of the body to secure the sewing and weave the tails into the body to finish.

Legs (Make 2 Using White Yarn)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 6 (6 sts)
R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 3 times (9 sts)
R3: sc in all 9 sts (9 sts)
R4: *sc 1, dec* rep 3 times (6 sts)
R5: sc in all 6 sts (6 sts)
R6: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R7-8: sc in all 12 sts (2 rounds total at 12 sts each)
R9: *sc 2, dec* rep 3 times (9 sts)
R10: *sc 1, dec* rep 3 times (6 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Add a little bit of stuffing to the feet, but leave the rest of the leg unstuffed. Like we did for the ears, flatten the open ends closed on each leg and sew the opening closed so that there is a flat edge for sewing.

Sewing the Legs on
Position the legs to the sides of the body so that your bear can sit up on his own when you set him on a flat surface. I sewed the back of the legs to R6-8 of my bear’s body, but yours might be different, so make sure to set your bear on a flat surface to ensure he can sit on his own.

When you have the legs positioned where you want them, pin them into place using straight pins to keep them in place while you sew them on. Starting where your finishing tail is on the bottom of the leg, sew the flat back edge of the leg to the body. Then, sew down three to four stitches from the top of the thigh to the body. When you have done that, weave the sewing tail down to the bottom of the leg and sew down three to four stitches of the bottom side to secure. Repeat for the second leg.

When you finish sewing the legs on, weave the remaining tails from both legs through to the back of the body and knot the two tails together to secure the sewing. Weave the remaining tails into the body to finish.

Arms (Make 2 Using White Yarn)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 6 (6 sts)
R2-5: sc in all 6 sts (4 rounds total at 6 sts each)
R6: *sc 1, inc* rep 3 times (9 sts)
R7-8: sc in all 9 sts (2 rounds total at 9 sts each)
R9: *sc 1, dec* rep 3 times (6 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. There’s no need to stuff the arms. Like we did for the legs, flatten the open ends closed on each leg and sew the opening closed so that there is a flat edge for sewing.
Position the arms to either side of the body with the back edge of the arms lined up evenly with the back edge of the legs. You’ll sew the flat edge of the arm to R11-13 of the body.

When you have sewn the back of the arm to the body, weave the sewing tail through the body to underneath the arm, as seen in the collage image below. Grab a few stitches from the underside of the arm and sew it to the body. Repeat for the second arm.

Just like we did for the legs, when you are finished, weave the remaining tails from both arms through to the back of the body and knot the two tails together to secure the sewing. Weave the remaining tails into the body to finish.

Tail (Using White Yarn)
Ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from the hook, make 5 sc sts (5 sts)
Finish off leaving a tail for sewing.
Sew the tail to the back of the body over R5 of the body. Weave the starting tail down to the sewing tail and knot the two ends together (as seen in the last two pictures in the collage below). Weave the remaining tails into the body to finish.

Scarf (Using Any Color)
You can make your scarf as long or short as you like. I’ve written out how I made mine here, but be sure to periodically wrap the scarf around your bear’s neck to ensure it’s the length you want. You can also make the scarf thinner by starting with 3 ch sts instead of 4.
Start with a long tail to use for sewing later. The scarf is worked in rows instead of rounds, so we will ch 1 and turn at the end of each row.
R1: ch 4, starting in the 2^nd ch from the hook, make 1 sc in each of the 3 chs (3 sts), ch 1, turn
R2-54: make 1 sc in each st, ch 1, turn (53 rows total at 3 sts each)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. I wrapped the scarf around my bear’s neck so that it was more like a cowl. Use the collage photos below as a guide to see how I wrapped mine.

I then sewed down both scarf edges using the tails we left. When finished, make a knot to secure your sewing and weave the tail neatly into the scarf to hide it.

Congratulations!!
More Amigurumi Bear Ideas:

Materials:
– yarn of your choice (I’ve used Rainbow 8/4 with a hook 2,20mm and Friends Cotton 8/6 with a hook 2,5mm
– white and black yarn to embroider the eyes
– a little bit of pink yarn to make the cheeks
– stuffing materials (fiberfill)
– scissors
– needle

Abbrevations
MR – magic ring
sc – single crochet
inc – increase (2sc in one stitch)
dec – decrease (2sc together)
ch – chain
(…) – number in brackets means a number of stitches in a round
(…)*N – repeat instruction on brackets N times

Amigurumi Crochet Monday Bear Free Pattern:

Head
1. 6sc in MR
2. inc x 6 (12)
3. sc, inc x 3, 3sc, inc x 3, 2sc (18)
4. (2sc, inc) x 6 (24)
5. 3sc, (inc, sc) x 3, 6sc, (inc, sc) x 3, 3sc (30)
6. (4sc, inc) x 6 (36)
7. (5sc, inc) x 6 (42)
8. – 17. 42sc (10 rounds)
18. (5sc, dec) x 6 (36)
19. (4sc, dec) x 6 (30)
20. (3sc, dec) x 6 (24)
21. (2sc, dec) x 6 (18)
22. (sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Body
1. 6sc in MR
2. inc x 6 (12)
3. (sc, inc) x 6 (18)
4. (2sc, inc) x 6 (24)
5. (3sc, inc) x 6 (30)
6. – 11. 30sc (6 rounds)
12. 9sc, dec x 6, 9sc (24)
13. 24sc
14. (2sc, dec)x 6 (18)
15. 18sc
16. (sc, dec) x 6 (12)
17. 12sc

Snout
1. 6sc in MR
2. inc x 6 (12)
3. sc, inc x 3, 3sc, inc x 3, 2sc (18)

Arms (make 2):
1. 6sc in MR
2. 2sc, inc x 2, 2sc (8)
3. – 4. 8sc (2 rounds)
5. 2sc, dec x 2, 2sc (6)
6. – 11. 6sc (6 rounds)
Stuff the arms only in “hand” part.

Legs (make 2):
1. 5sc in MR
2. inc x 5 (10)
3. 2sc, inc x 5, 3sc (15)
4. – 5. 15sc (2 rounds)
6. 5sc, dec x 3, 4sc (12)
7. 4sc, dec x 2, 4sc (10)
8. – 13. 10sc (6 rounds)
14. 10sc
Fold in half and make 5sc through both sides. Stuff the leg only to 7 round.

Ears (make 2):
1. 6sc in MR (don’t close the ring)
2. 1ch, turn, 6sc

Assembling:
Sew the ears symmetrically on both sides of the head (approximately between rounds 5 and 9).
Sew the snout to the head between rounds 12 and 18. Stuff it just a little bit. Embroider little nose and mouth. Embroider eyes and eyebrows.
Sew the head to the body.
Sew the arms and legs as you like the most, depending on whether you want that the little bear should be sitting or standing.

More Amigurumi Bear Ideas:

Materials
Yarn
Crochet hook
Embroidery Needle
6mm Safety eyes
Markers
Scissors

Abbreviations
MR – Amigurumi Magic ring
sc : Single Crochet
inc : Increase
dec : Decrease
st: Stitch
sl-st or Slst: Slip Stitch
ch : Chain

Amigurumi Crochet Teddy Fufy Bear Free Pattern:

Head
1– 6 sc in ring
2– inc ( 12)
3– 1 sc, inc (18)
4– 2 sc, inc (24)
5– 3 sc, inc (30)
6– 4sc, inc (36)
7– 5sc, inc (42)
8– 6sc, inc (48)
9– 7sc, inc (54)
10-18– sc in all (54)
Attached safety eyes between Row 14 and 15 with 7 stitches apart
19– 7sc, dec (48)
20– 6sc, dec (42)
21– 5sc, dec (36)
22– 4sc, dec (30)
23– 3sc, dec (24)
Fasten of leaving long tail. Do not sew closed

Arms x2
1– 6 sc in ring
2– inc (12)
3-18– sc in all (12)

Body
1– 6 sc in ring
2– inc (12)
3– 1sc, inc (18)
4– 2sc, inc (24)
5– 3sc, inc (30)
6– 4sc, inc (36)
7– 5sc, inc (42)
8– 6sc, inc (48)
9-14– sc in all (48)
15– 6sc, dec (42)
16-19– sc in all (42)
20– 5sc, dec (36)
21-23– sc in all (36)
24– 4sc, dec (30)
25– 3sc, dec (24)
Fasten of leaving Long tail and sew Body to head.

Legs x2
1– 6 sc in ring
2– inc (12)
3– 1sc, inc (18)
4– 2sc, inc (24)
5– 3sc, inc (30)
6-7– sc in all (30)
8– 7sc, (2sc, dec)*4, 7sc (26)
9-10– sc in all (26)
11– 9sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 8sc (24)
12– sc in all (24)
13– 9sc, (sc, dec)*2, 9sc (22)
14-16– sc in all (22)
17– 8sc, (sc, dec)*2, 8sc (20)
18– 4sc, (sc, dec)*4, 4sc (16)
19-21– sc in all (16)
22– 2sc, (sc, dec)*4, 2 sc (12)
23-25– sc in all (12)
26– 3sc, (sc, dec)*2, 3sc (10)
27-35– sc in all (10)
Leave long tail for sewing

Nose
1– 6 sc in all
2– inc (12)
3– 1sc, inc (18)
4– 2sc, inc (24)
Fasten of leaving Long tail for sewing

Ears x2
1– 6 sc in ring
2– inc (12)
3– 1sc, inc (18)
4– 2sc, inc (24)
5-8– sc in all (24)

Patch
1– 4sc in ring
2– (3sc in same st)*4
3– 1sc, 3sc in same st, 2sc, 3sc in same st, 2sc, 3sc in same st, 2sc, 3sc in same st, 1 sc
4– 1sc, 1s1st fasten off leaving long tail.

More Amigurumi Bear Ideas:

Materials
•  yarn of choice for the body
• embroidery thread or scrap yarn for the face features (black and white)
• optional: safety eyes
• crochet hook in a right size for your yarn
• toy stuffing
• sewing pins, yarn needle, scissors, stitch marker
I used: Ricorumi DK in color 056 and hook 2,5 mm

Bobble Stitch
In this pattern you will make a bobble for a bear’s tail, it will be made with 3 triple crochet. To make this, make three tr in the same stitch, but do not finish first two (stop before the last yarn over). When finishing the last tr, pull the loop through all four loops that you will have on your hook.

Pattern notes
The whole thing is worked in continous rounds. If you will use the same yarn and hook as me, your toy will measure approx. 10 cm in height.

Amigurumi Crochet Brown Bear Henio Free Pattern:

Arms x2
• arms have to be made first, because we will attach these while crocheting the body
R1. 6 sc in MR [6]
R2. (1 sc, inc) x3 [9]
R3-7. sc around (5 rounds) [9]
• stuff lightly only the very beginning of the arm
R8. (1 sc, dec) x2, 3 sc [7]
• fold in half, next round is worked through stitches of the both layers, skip the last stitch of the last round
R9. 3 sc, ch 1
• fasten off, pull the last ch very tight, weave in end

Head
R1. 6 sc in MR [6]
R2. 6 inc [12]
R3. (1 sc, inc) x6 [18]
R4. (1 sc, inc,1 sc) x6 [24]
R5. sc around [24]
R6. (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]
R7-8. sc around (2 rounds) [30]
R9. (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x6 [36]
R10. 9 sc, 2 inc, 14 sc, 2 inc, 9 sc [40
R11. sc around [40]
R12. (2 sc, dec) x10 [30]
R13. (1 sc, dec) x10 [20]
• embroider the face; increases from rnd 10 should be at the sides and face should be centered between these, at the opposite side of the stitch marker; I emroidered the eyes over rnds 8-9, 6 sts apart, with tiny horizontal white sts as a light sparks, brows 1 st above the eyes, nose between rnds 9-10, 2 sts wide, snout one rnd down (see the picture for the reference)
R14. (2 sc, dec) x5 [15]
• start stuffing and continue to the end
R15. (1 sc, dec) x5 [10]
R16. 5 dec [5]
• fasten off, close the hole – with the tapestry needle, thread the yarn through the front loops of the last rnd and pull tight, weave in end

Ears (make 2)
R1. 6 sc in MR [6]
• do not close the ring, fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing

Legs (make 2)
R1. 6 sc in MR [6]
R2. 6 inc [12]
R3-7. sc around (5 rounds) [12]
• make additional 4 sc (for both legs)
• fasten off and weave in end for the first leg, crochet the second leg the same way but do not fasten off, mark the last st as a new end of the round and continue crocheting
• now you will connect two legs and start crocheting the body

Body
R8. 5 sc, 1 sl st, ch 1, make the next st in the st right after last made sc of the first leg, 1 sl st, 11 sc, inc in one side of the chain, 6 sc [27]
R9. 5 sc, 1 sc in sl st, inc in the other side of the chain, 1 sc in sl st,19 sc [28]

R10. 21 sc, bobble stitch with 3 tr, 6 sc [28]
• the bobble st should be in the middle of the back, adjust
stitches if needed
R11. 26 sc, finish this round here [28]
• mark the last sc as a new round end
• stuff the legs and stuff the body as you go
R12. 8 sc, dec, (7 sc, dec) x2 [25]
R13. sc around [25]
R14. 3 sc, dec, (7 sc, dec) x2, 2 sc [22]
R15. sc around [22]
R16. 4 sc, dec, (5 sc, dec) x2, 2 sc [19]
• in the next round we will attach the arms, sc through the arm and the body at the same time, position the arms with the wrong side of the last row facing upwards.
• find 3 sts on each side of the body as a place for the arms, there should be 6 sts distance on the front between these.

R17. make 1 sc in every st or the pair of sts where you are attaching arms to the body, in my case it was: 1 sc, 3 sc through the arm and the body, 6 sc, 3 sc through the arm and the body, 6 sc [19]
R18. (1 sc, dec) x6, sl st [13]
• fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing, finish stuffing

Assembly
• sew the ears to the head between rounds 4-7, on the opposite sides of the head lined with the arms, right side of the ears has to be facing forward
• sew the head to the body, stuff the neck firmly

More Amigurumi Bear Ideas:

Abbreviations (US Terms)
• ch – chain
• sl-slip stitch
• sc – single crochet
• inc – increase
• dec – decrease
• st/s-stitch/es

Materials
• Any yarn you have
• Crochet hook (Suitable for the type of yarn you use)
• Sewing eyes 9mm – 10.0mm (if you use fluffy yarn)
• Scissors
• Needle
• marker
• Stuff cotton

Amigurumi Fluffy Teddy Bear Free Pattern:

Head
• R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
• R2: 6inc (12)
• R3: (Sc, inc)*6 (18)
• R4: (2 Sc, inc)*6 (24)
• R5, 6. Single crochet in each stitch (2 rounds)
• R7. (3sc, inc)*6 (30)
• R8, 9, 10. Single crochet in each stitch (3 rounds)
• R11. 15dec (15)
• slip stitch, cut the yarn.

Body
• R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
• R2: 6inc (12)
• R3: (Sc, inc)*6 (18)
• R4: (2 Sc, inc)*6 (24)
• R5, 6. Single crochet in each stitch (2 rounds)
• R7. (4sc, dec)*4 (20)
• R8. Single crochet in each stitch
• R9. (2sc, dec)*5 (15)
• R10. Single crochet in each stitch.
make a slip stitch. Leave a long tail to sew (for cotton yarn)
(if you use fluffy yarn, use cotton yarn to sew the head to the body)

Leg (make 2)
• R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
• R2: 6inc (12)
• R3, 4. Single crochet in each stitch (2 rounds)
• R5. (2 Sc, dec)*3 (9)
• R6, 7. Single crochet in each stitch (2 rounds)
• R8. (Sc, dec)*3 (6)
• cut the yarn. Close the opening

Arm (make 2)
• R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
• R2: (inc, sc)*3 (9)
• R3. Single crochet in each stitch
• R4. (Sc, dec)*3 (6)
• R5, 6. Single crochet in each stitch (2 rounds)
• cut the yarn. Close the opening

Ear (make 2)
• 6 single crochet in magic ring
• leave along tail to sew, cut the yarn

Muzzle
• 8 single crochet in magic ring. Make a slip stitch
• leave along tail to sew, cut the yarn
• embroider as picture shown

Assemble the parts together
• Sew the head to the body.
• Sew the ears to the head: r4, r5
• sew or glue the muzzle to the head: r8, 9, 10 embroider eyes as picture shown
• sew the arms to the body: between r9 & r10. 7 stitches apart.
• Sew the legs to the body: between r5 & r6. 11 stitches apart.

Hope you love my pattern
Happy crocheting!

More Amigurumi Bear Ideas:

Try this free amigurumi animals patterns and learn how to crochet a cute bunny and teddy bear for fun and as a great gift for all little ones to treasure. The finished sizes of the crochet toys are 12 cm or 4.7 inches (bunny with ears) and 9.5 cm or 3.7 inches (teddy bear).

Materials:
– YarnArt Jeans yarn (55% cotton, 45% acrylic, 50g / 160m) white #01, black #53, beige for a bunny #87, brown for a teddy bear #70
– 2.0 mm crochet hook
– 7 mm safety eyes
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– Fiberfill

Abbreviations:
R = row
mc = magic circle
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
inc = increase (2 sc in the next stitch)
dec = decrease (single crochet 2 stitches together)
(…) = number of stitches you should have at the end of the round/row
(…)* 6 = repeat whatever is between the brackets the number of times stated

Amigurumi Bunny and Teddy Bear Free Pattern:

Head
With main color yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc)* 6 (12)
R 3: (1 sc, inc)* 6 (18)
R 4: (2 sc, inc)* 6 (24)
R 5: (3 sc, inc)* 6 (30)
R 6: (4 sc, inc)* 6 (36)
R 7: (5 sc, inc)* 6 (42)
R 8-13: 42 sc (6 rows)
R 14: (5 sc, dec)* 6 (36)
Insert safety eyes between R 11 and R 12.
R 15: (4 sc, dec)* 6 (30)
R 16: (3 sc, dec)* 6 (24)
R 17: (2 sc, dec)* 6 (18)
R 18: (4 sc, dec)* 3 (15)
Stuff the head.
F. o., leaving a long yarn tail for sewing.

Body
With main color yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc)* 6 (12)
R 3: (1 sc, inc)* 6 (18)
R 4: (2 sc, inc)* 6 (24)
R 5: (3 sc, inc)* 6 (30)
R 6-7: 30 sc (2 rows)
R 8: (3 sc, dec)* 6 (24)
R 9-10: 24 sc (2 rows)
R 11: (2 sc, dec)* 6 (18)
R 12: (4 sc, dec)* 3 (15)
R 13: 15 sc
Stuff the body.
F. o.

Arms (make 2)
Start with white color yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc)* 6 (12)
R 3: (3 sc, inc)* 3 (15)
Change to main color yarn:
R 4-5: 15 sc (2 rows)
R 6: (1 sc, dec)* 5 (10)
R 7-8: 10 sc (2 rows)
Stuff the arm.
F. o., leaving a long yarn tail for sewing.

Legs (make 2)
Start with white color yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc)* 6 (12)
R 3: (1 sc, inc)* 6 (18)
R 4: (2 sc, inc)* 6 (24)
Change to main color yarn:
R 5-7: 24 sc (3 rows)
R 8: (2 sc, dec)* 6 (18)
R 9: (1 sc, dec)* 6 (12)
Stuff the leg.
F. o., leaving a long yarn tail for sewing.

Ears for the bunny (make 2)
With main color yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc)* 6 (12)
R 3: 12 sc
R 4: (3 sc, inc)* 3 (15)
R 5-10: 15 sc (6 rows)
R 11: (3 sc, dec)* 3 (12)
R 12: 12 sc
R 13: (4 sc, dec)* 2 (10)
Do not stuff.
F. o., leaving a long yarn tail for sewing.

Ears for the teddy bear (make 2)
With main color yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc)* 6 (12)
R 3: (1 sc, inc)* 6 (18)
R 4-5: 18 sc (2 rows)
Do not stuff.
F. o., leaving a long yarn tail for sewing.

Muzzle for the teddy bear
With white color yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc)* 6 (12)
R 3: (1 sc, inc)* 6 (18)
R 4: 18 sc
F. o., leaving a long yarn tail for sewing.

Assembly of the bunny
1- Sew the head to the body.
2- Sew the arms and legs to the body.
3- Make eye tightening for the amigurumi bunny.
4- Embroider eye whites using a white yarn, eyebrows and lashes using a black one.
5- Embroider a nose using a pink yarn.
6- Sew the ears to the head between R 7 and R 8 as shown in the photo.

Assembly of the teddy bear
1- Sew the head to the body.
2- Make eye tightening.
3- Embroider eye whites, then eyebrows and lashes as shown in the photo.
4- Sew the muzzle to the head.
5- Embroider a nose using a black yarn.
6- Sew the ears to the head, between rows 4-9 of the head.
7- Sew the arms and legs to the body.

More Amigurumi Bunny and Bear Ideas:

Abbreviations
MR- Magic ring
Ch- Chain
Inc- Increase
Dec- Decrease
Sc- Single crochet
Hdc- Half double crochet
Dc- Double crochet

Materials
• The bear is knitted from Alize Angora Real 40 yarn (wool 40%, acrylic 60%)
• Crochet hook 1.25.
Note: The bear is knitted in one piece from the feet to the top of the head. Be sure to use a frame so that the toy holds shape, and most importantly the head, because the neck of the bear is very thin.

We start crocheting from the legs. The marker passes strictly behind the leg.

Amigurumi Valentine’s Day Bear Free Pattern:

Legs (Make 2)
Left leg
9 ch
We start crocheting in the second loop of the chain.
Rnd 1. 7sc, 3sc in one loop, on the other side of the chain 6sc, inc (18)
Rnd 2. inc, 6sc, (inc)*3, 6sc, (inc)*2 (24)
Rnd 3. 1sc, inc, 6hdc, (1sc, inc)*3 6hdc, (1sc, inc)*2 (30)
Rnd 4. inc, 4 hdc, 8dc, (inc,dec)*3, 8dc, 4hdc, (inc)*2 (36)
Rnd 5-7. 36 sc (3 rnds)
Rnd 8. (4sc, dec)*6 (30)
Rnd 9. 30 sc (30)
Rnd 10. (3sc,dec)*6 (24)+ 1 loop
Rnd 11. 3 sc, (1sc,dec)*6,3sc, 3sc (18)
Start stuffing your foot. Do not fill the sock too much, there will be tightenings for fingers.

Now cut off a piece of wire (I have 35 cm) make a loop, insert it into the foot and stuff it around the wire with stuffing.
Rnd 12. 3sc, (dec)*6, 3sc, (12)
Rnd 13-17. 12 sc (5 rnds)
Rnd 18. 10sc, leave 2sc, do not tie to the end of the row.
When we connect with the right leg, then these two loops will be the first loops. We tear off the thread. Fill.

Right leg
9 ch
We start crocheting in the second loop of the chain.
Rnd 1. 7sc, 3sc in one loop, on the other side of the chain 6sc, inc (18)
Rnd 2. inc, 6sc, (inc)*3, 6sc, (inc)*2 (24)
Rnd 3. 1sc, inc, 6hdc, (1sc, inc)*3.6hdc, (1sc, inc)*2 (30)
Rnd 4. inc, 4hdc, 8dc, (inc,dc)*3, 8dc, 4hdc, (inc)*2 (36)
Rnd 5-7. 36 sc (3 rnds)
Rnd 8. (4sc, dec)*6 (30)
Rnd 9. 30 sc (30)
Rnd 10. (3sc,dec)*6 (24)+ 1 bias loop
Rnd 11. 3sc, (1sc,dec)*6,3sc, (18)
Start stuffing your foot. Do not fill the sock too much, there will be tightenings for fingers.
Now cut off a piece of wire (I have 35cm) make a loop, insert it into pad the foot and around the wire with stuffing.
Rnd 12. 3sc, (dec)*6, 3sc, (12)
Rnd 13-18. 12sc (6 rows) we make 2 bias loops Fill.

We do not tear off the thread, we continue crocheting.
Next, we will connect the legs together and into the body.

Body
Rnd 19. 3sc on the right leg, ch 6, now take the left leg and start knitting from the remaining untied loops 12sc, on the left leg 6sc, after ch, 9sc. On the right leg.
Rnd 20. 3sc, 6sc. on ch, 3sc, (inc, 1sc)*3, 12 sc- (3sc. on the left leg + 6sc along the chain from ch, + 3sc. on the right leg = 12sc), (1sc, inc)*3 (42)
After the 20th row, the thread should be in the center of the right leg, behind.
About the wire. Twist the two wires from the legs together, but twist only to the length of the body plus the neck, in the head the two wires should be separate.

Rnd 21-22. 42 sc (2 rnds)
Rnd 23. 4sc, (inc)*6, (increases, 12sc, (inc, 1sc)*6, (increases for tummy), 8sc (54)
Rnd 24-26. 54 sc (3 rows)
Rnd 27. (8sc, inc)*6 (60)
Rnd 28. 60 sc (60)
Rnd 29. 5 sc, inc, (9sc, inc)*5, 4sc (66)
Rnd 30-37. 66 sc (8 rnds)
Rnd 38. 40 sc, (dec, 1sc)*6, 8sc (60) decrease in the middle of the tummy.
Rnd 39. 60 sc (60)
Rnd 40. 35 sc, (dec, 1sc)*6, 7sc (54) decrease in the middle of the tummy.
Rnd 41-43. 54 sc (3 rnds)
Rn
d 44. (3sc, dec)*6, 24sc (48)We begin to stuff the body and then, as the body is crochet, continue packing.

Rnd 45-46. 48 sc (48)
Rnd 47. (6sc, dec)*6 (42)
Rnd 48. 42 sc (42)
Rnd 49. (5sc, dec)*6 (36)
Rnd 50. 36 sc (36)
Rnd 51. (4sc, dec)*6 (30)
Rnd 52. 30 sc (30)
Rnd 53. (3sc, dec)*6 (24)
Rnd 54. (2sc, dec)*6 (18)
Rnd 55. 18 sc
Stuff to the end.

Neck
Rnd 56. (dec)*9 (9)
Rnd 57-58. 9 sc (2 rnds)
We turn to crocheting the head.

Head
Rnd 59. (inc)*9 (18)
Rnd 60. (2sc,inc)*6 (24)
Rnd 61. (3sc,inc)*6 (30)
Rnd 62. (4sc,inc)*6 (36)
Rnd 63. (5sc,inc)*6 (42)
Rnd 64. (6sc,inc)*6 (48)
Rnd 65. (7sc,inc)*6 (54)
Rnd 66. (8sc,inc)*6 (60)
Rnd 67. (9sc,inc)*6 (66)
Rnd 68. (10sc,inc)*6 (72)
Rnd 69. (11sc,inc)*6 (78)
Rnd 70. (12sc,inc)*6 (84)
Rnd 71-78. 84 sc (8 rnds)
Make such a structure out of wire as in the photo, this is for stability bear heads. The head is large on a thin neck. Will help as well bend your head to the side. From this point on, you can gradually and gently stuff your head. The wire should not touch the head, but be inside it. And around wire stuffing. It is better to start stuffing in small lumps in order to gradually fill the entire space of the head.

Rnd 79. 6sc, dec,(12sc,dec)*5, 6sc (78)
Rnd 80. 78 sc (78)
Rnd 81. (11sc,dec)*6 (72)
Rnd 82. 72 sc (72)
Rnd 83. 5sc, dec, (10sc,dec)*5, 5sc (66)
Rnd 84. 66 sc (66)
Rnd 85. (9sc,dec)*6 (60)
Rnd 86. 60 sc (60)
Rnd 87. 4sc, dec, (8sc,dec)*5, 4sc (54)
Rnd 88. 54 sc (54)
Rnd 89. (7sc,dec)*6 (48)
Rnd 90. 48 sc (48)
Rnd 91. 3sc, dec, (6sc,dec)*5, 3sc (42)
Rnd 92. 42 sc (42)
Rnd 93. (5sc,dec)*6 (36)
Rnd 94. 2sc, dec,(4sc,dec)*5, 2sc (30)
Rnd 95. (3sc,dec)*6 (24)
Rnd 96. 1sc, dec, (2sc,dec)*5, 1sc (18)
Rnd 97. (1sc,dec)*6 (12), Stuff.
Rnd 98. (dec)*6

Arms (Make 2)
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. (inc)*6 (12)
Rnd 3. (1sc,inc)*6 (18)
Rnd 4. (2sc,inc)*6 (24)
Rnd 5-8. 24 sc (4 rnds)
Rnd 9. (2sc,dec)*6 (18)
Rnd 10-11. 18 sc (2rnds)
Rnd 12. (1sc,dec)*6 (12)
Fill your palm, but very weakly, so that later you can pull your fingers on it.
Rnd 13-30. 12 sc (18 rnds)
Now you need to cut off a piece of wire so that it sticks out of the handle by 1.5-2 cm longer but insert the wire only after pulling the fingers. Flatten the palm and embroider two stitches for the fingers, pulling a little. Stuff the handle a little.

Muzzle
From finishing yarn
3ch
We crochet in rotary rows, at the end of each row we make ch We start with the second loop of the chain.
Rnd 1. (inc)*2 4sc ch turn
Rnd 2. inc, 2sc, inc 6 sc ch turn
Rnd 3. inc, 4sc, inc 8 sc ch turn
Rnd 4. inc, 6sc, inc 10 sc ch turn
Rnd 5. inc, 8sc, inc 12 sc ch turn
Rnd 6. inc, 10sc, inc 14 sc ch turn
Rnd 7-16. 14 sc (10rnds) ch turn
Rnd 17. dec,10sc,dec 12sc ch turn
Rnd 18. dec, 8sc,dec 10sc ch turn
Rnd 19. dec, 6sc,dec 8sc ch turn
Rnd 20. dec, 4sc,dec 6sc ch turn
Rnd 21. dec, 2sc,dec 4sc ch turn
Rnd 22. (dec)*2 2sc
Tie the entire muzzle around the perimeter with 2 rows of sc.

Ears (Make 2)
Rnd 1. 6sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. (inc)*6 (12)
Rnd 3. (1sc,inc)*6 (18)
Rnd 4. (2sc,inc)*6 (24)
Rnd 5. (3sc,inc)*6 (30)
Rnd 6-9. 30 sc (4rnds)
Fold the ear in half and tie the bottom edge in two layers 15 sc.

Inner ear
2 details.
9 ch
We crochet in rotary rows, at the end of the row do ch. we start crocheting from the second loop of the chain.
Rnd 1-3. 8sc, (3 rnds) ch turn
Rnd 4. dec,4sc,dec 6sc ch turn
Rnd 5. dec,2sc,dec 4sc, break the thread.
Sew the ear neatly into the main ear.
The inner ear can be cut out of fabric.

Belly pad (1 pcs)
Rnd 1. 6sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. (inc)*6 (12)
Rnd 3. (1sc,inc)*6 (18)
Rnd 4. (2sc,inc)*6 (24)
Rnd 5. (3sc,inc)*6 (30)
Rnd 6. (4sc,inc)*6 (36)
Break the thread.

Assembly
Before starting the assembly, you need to comb all the parts. Can Velcro, you can use a slicker. Comb very carefully so as not to change the shape of the parts. Colored pins can be inserted in the center of the tummy and in the center of the head, so that when assembling, you orient yourself and arrange the bear symmetrically.
You can immediately sew the patch on the tummy, this will also help to determine with the center of the bear shape. Sew on the muzzle, be sure to add filler, but not much to the muzzle did not stick out forward, but, as it were, protruded slightly forward. She located not in the center of the head, but much downward.
Somewhere from row 65 (or through 6 rows from the neck) and up. Sew on the ears. The bear’s head is not round, and you can see how there are places from the sides for ears. Make a slight eye tightening. To do this, insert the needle behind the head at neck and withdraw into the first eye, tighten slightly, return, then from the neck withdraw into the second eye and back to the neck.
Tighten a little and fasten the thread. And because our eyes will be located very close to each other, then we can with one stitch to capture the entire area intended for the eyes, and slightly pull, do not pull too much, otherwise they may look like they have failed. In this version, the eyes will be evenly deepened. Choose the nose and eyes at your discretion.
But it is better that the nose is not small, I have a length of 2.5 cm If there is no nozzle suitable for the size, it is easy to make it out of plastic or dump it, but you can find a button and cover it with fabric. There are many options. Place the eyes directly above the muzzle and very close to each other. Handles sticking out with wire, insert into the body on the sides in the region of 49-50 rows, sew on.
Make sure your hands are symmetrical. Sew on the tummy liner on the most convex part of the abdomen, a drop add filler. Embroider a smile and eyebrows. Embroider a smile in one thread so that it is this is not very noticeable, but the eyebrows are better in two strings. Embroider the same toes and toes. You can tint the bear a little – cheeks, eyebrows. Cut a few strands from the main yarn and string them on the top of the head. heads (where we closed the last loops) as we string a fringe.
Cut to desired length and fluff. This will be a forelock. A bear can be made with a felted muzzle and a felted nose. Eyes make from plastic. Sew on patches. The bear is ready. And you can decorate it as you wish.
Valentine’s day crochet cute teddy bear amigurumi pattern is finished, happy day to all of you.

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