Sewn panel construction, smooth curves, gift-ready finish

This whale is worked as two curved panels (Top + Bottom) in rows, then seamed and stuffed. The shaping creates a defined “mouth curve” and a soft, chubby body.

FINISHED SIZE

Approx. 38–42 cm (15–16.5 in) long with worsted yarn and 4.0 mm hook.
(Adjust by changing yarn/hook.)

MATERIALS

• Worsted weight yarn (Category 4)
  • Color A: Top (Denim/Blue)
  • Color B: Bottom (Light gray/white)
• Hook: 4.0 mm (G/6) (use 3.75 mm if you want tighter fabric)
• Safety eyes: 9–10 mm
• Stitch markers
• Fiberfill stuffing
• Tapestry needle, scissors

ABBREVIATIONS (US)

• ch – chain
• sc – single crochet
• hdc – half double crochet
• dc – double crochet
• sl st – slip stitch
• inc – 2 sc in same stitch
• dec – sc2tog (single crochet decrease)
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• ( ) – stitch count end of row
• Turn at end of each row.

NOTES (IMPORTANT)

• Work tight to prevent stuffing showing.
• The panels look “flat” until seamed—this is normal.
• Leave long yarn tails for seaming.
• For the smoothest seam, use mattress stitch on the body.

PART 1 — WHALE TOP (Color A)

Ch 15

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (14)
Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc across (14)
Row 3: ch 1, turn, inc, 12 sc, inc (16)
Row 4: ch 1, turn, sc across (16)
Row 5: ch 1, turn, inc, 14 sc, inc (18)
Row 6: ch 1, turn, sc across (18)
Row 7: ch 1, turn, inc, 16 sc, inc (20)
Row 8: ch 1, turn, sc across (20)
Row 9: ch 1, turn, 6 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, 6 sc (22)
Row 10: ch 1, turn, sc across (22)
Row 11: ch 1, turn, inc, 20 sc, inc (24)
Row 12: ch 1, turn, sc across (24)

Begin gentle “mouth ridge” shaping

Row 13: ch 1, turn, 2 sc, dec, 16 sc, dec, 2 sc (22)
Row 14: ch 1, turn, sc across (22)
Row 15: ch 1, turn, 2 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 2 sc (20)
Row 16: ch 1, turn, sc across (20)
Row 17: ch 1, turn, 1 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 1 sc (18)
Row 18: ch 1, turn, sc across (18)

Back area + dorsal fin base

Row 19: ch 1, turn, inc, 16 sc, inc (20)
Row 20: ch 1, turn, sc across (20)
Row 21: ch 1, turn, 7 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 7 sc (22)
Row 22: ch 1, turn, sc across (22)
Row 23: ch 1, turn, 8 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 8 sc (24)
Row 24: ch 1, turn, sc across (24)

Dorsal fin “pinch” (small raised fin)

Row 25: ch 1, turn, 10 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 10 sc (22)
Row 26: ch 1, turn, sc across (22)
Row 27: ch 1, turn, 9 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 9 sc (20)
Row 28: ch 1, turn, sc across (20)

Taper toward tail

Row 29: ch 1, turn, 2 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 2 sc (18)
Row 30: ch 1, turn, sc across (18)
Row 31: ch 1, turn, 2 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 2 sc (16)
Row 32: ch 1, turn, sc across (16)
Row 33: ch 1, turn, 1 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 1 sc (14)
Row 34: ch 1, turn, sc across (14)

Tail flukes shaping

Row 35: ch 1, turn, inc, 12 sc, inc (16)
Row 36: ch 1, turn, inc, 14 sc, inc (18)
Row 37: ch 1, turn, 2 sc, inc, 12 sc, inc, 2 sc (20)
Row 38: ch 1, turn, 8 sc, sl st 4, 8 sc (20) (creates center dip)
Row 39: ch 1, turn, 2 sc, inc, 12 sc, inc, 2 sc (22)
Row 40: ch 1, turn, 9 sc, sl st 4, 9 sc (22)

Fasten off, leave a long tail.

PART 2 — WHALE BOTTOM (Color B)

Ch 17

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (16)
Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc across (16)

Create rounded “mouth”/chin curve with taller stitches

Row 3: ch 1, turn, 5 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, 2 hdc, 5 sc (16)
Row 4: ch 1, turn, inc, 14 sc, inc (18)
Row 5: ch 1, turn, 6 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 6 sc (20)
Row 6: ch 1, turn, sc across (20)
Row 7: ch 1, turn, inc, 18 sc, inc (22)
Row 8: ch 1, turn, sc across (22)
Row 9: ch 1, turn, 8 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 8 sc (24)
Row 10: ch 1, turn, sc across (24)

Belly fullness

Row 11: ch 1, turn, inc, 22 sc, inc (26)
Row 12: ch 1, turn, sc across (26)
Row 13: ch 1, turn, 10 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 10 sc (28)
Row 14: ch 1, turn, sc across (28)
Row 15: ch 1, turn, inc, 26 sc, inc (30)
Row 16: ch 1, turn, sc across (30)

Start taper

Row 17: ch 1, turn, 2 sc, dec, 24 sc, dec, 2 sc (28)
Row 18: ch 1, turn, sc across (28)
Row 19: ch 1, turn, 2 sc, dec, 22 sc, dec, 2 sc (26)
Row 20: ch 1, turn, sc across (26)
Row 21: ch 1, turn, 1 sc, dec, 22 sc, dec, 1 sc (24)
Row 22: ch 1, turn, sc across (24)
Row 23: ch 1, turn, 2 sc, dec, 18 sc, dec, 2 sc (22)
Row 24: ch 1, turn, sc across (22)
Row 25: ch 1, turn, 2 sc, dec, 16 sc, dec, 2 sc (20)
Row 26: ch 1, turn, sc across (20)
Row 27: ch 1, turn, 1 sc, dec, 16 sc, dec, 1 sc (18)
Row 28: ch 1, turn, sc across (18)

Tail flukes (match top)

Row 29: ch 1, turn, inc, 16 sc, inc (20)
Row 30: ch 1, turn, 2 sc, inc, 14 sc, inc, 2 sc (22)
Row 31: ch 1, turn, 9 sc, sl st 4, 9 sc (22)
Row 32: ch 1, turn, 2 sc, inc, 14 sc, inc, 2 sc (24)
Row 33: ch 1, turn, 10 sc, sl st 4, 10 sc (24)

Fasten off, leave a long tail.

PART 3 — SIDE FINS (Make 2, mirror pair)

Fin A (Color A) + Fin B (Color B) then join.

Make 2 fins in Color A and 2 fins in Color B (4 pieces total)

Ch 7

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (6)
Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc across (6)
Row 3: ch 1, turn, inc, 4 sc, inc (8)
Row 4: ch 1, turn, sc across (8)
Row 5: ch 1, turn, 1 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 1 sc (6)
Row 6: ch 1, turn, sc across (6)
Row 7: ch 1, turn, dec, 2 sc, dec (4)
Row 8: ch 1, turn, sc across (4)
Row 9: ch 1, turn, dec, dec (2)

Fasten off.

Join fins

Place one Color A fin + one Color B fin together (right sides out).
Attach yarn and sl st evenly around the edge.
Do NOT stuff fins.

Repeat for second fin.

PART 4 — ASSEMBLY

1. Nose seam (front shaping):
   Fold the first 3–4 rows of each panel slightly inward and stitch a short seam at the very front to create a rounded snout.
2. Place eyes:
   On the Top panel, place safety eyes about Rows 6–7, roughly 3–4 stitches in from each side. (Adjust to your taste.)
3. Join tail first:
   With panels aligned, sl st around the tail flukes area to lock the shape (optional but tidy).
4. Sew body (recommended):
   Use mattress stitch from tail forward, leaving an opening on the belly side for stuffing.
5. Insert fins while seaming:
   At about the mid-body (around the widest belly rows), sandwich the fin between panels and stitch through fin edge as you seam.
6. Stuff firmly:
   Overstuffing slightly helps the whale look “puffy” and defined. Do not stuff fins/tail.
7. Close seam and shape:
   Finish seaming, weave ends, gently squish and shape the mouth curve.

OPTIONAL DETAILS (Premium look)

• Add a tiny embroidered mouth line on the bottom panel front (1–1.5 cm).
• Steam-block panels lightly before assembly for cleaner curves.
• Use a smaller hook (3.5 mm) for a tighter, more “store-bought” finish.

PERMISSIONS

You may sell finished whales made from this pattern.
Do not redistribute, translate, or sell the pattern text itself.

© Badoomobile Amigurumi – Original Pattern

Finished Amigurumi Whale – Color Variations

The author of the doll about 38 cm, yarn 100% cotton.

Legend:
PRS-Column without a throw
UB-Ubava
D- Double
St- Stitch

Need: 
✨ Hook 2.5 mm 
✨ Eyes 10 mm 
✨ yarn Beige, white, grey. Light brown, pink, light grey and lilac

Amigurumi Sweet Doll Crochet Free Pattern

Head: 
Beige 
P 1:6 PRS in the ring 
P2: St (X6) – 12 PRS 
P3: * PRS, D * (X6) – 18 PRS 
P4: * 2 PRS, D * (X6) – 24 PRS 
P5: * 3 PRS, D * (X6) – 30 PRS 
F6: * 4 PRS, D * (X6) – 36 PRS 
P7: * 5 PRS, D * (X6) – 42 PRS 
F8: * 6 PRS, D * (X6) – 48 PRS 
P9: * 7 PRS, D * (X6) – 54 PRS 
F10: * 8 PRS, D * (X6) – 60 PRS 
P11: * 9 PRS, D * (X6) – 66 PRS 
P 12-21:66 PRS 
Between 14 and 15 rows place eyes at a distance of 6 loops. 
R22: * 9 PRS, UB * (X6) – 60 PRS 
R23: * 8 PRS, UB * (X6) – 54 PRS 
P24: * 7 PRS, UB * (X6) – 48 PRS 
Regulators: * 6 PRS, UB * (X6) – 42 PRS 
R26: * 5 PRS, UB * (X6) – 36 PRS 
P27: * 4 PRS, UB * (X6) – 30 PRS 
R28: * 3 PRS, UB * (X6) – 24 PRS 
Embroider nose width in 2 loops, retreating 3 rows of eyes 

Body: 
Beige 
P 1:6 PRS in the ring 
P2: St (X6) – 12 PRS 
P3: * PRS, D * (X6) – 18 PRS 
P4: * 2 PRS, D * (X6) – 24 PRS 
P5: * 3 PRS, D * (X6) – 30 PRS 
F6: * 4 PRS, D * (X6) – 36 PRS 
P7: * 5 PRS, D * (X6) – 42 PRS 
F8: * 6 PRS, D * (X6) – 48 PRS 
P9: * 7 PRS, D * (X6) – 54 PRS 
F10: * 8 PRS, D * (X6) – 60 PRS 
P11: * 9 PRS, D * (X6) – 66 PRS 
P 12-17:66 PRS 
Cutting: * 9 PRS, UB * (X6) – 60 PRS 
P 19-21:60 PRS 
R22: * 8 PRS, UB * (X6) – 54 PRS 
P 23-25:54 PRS 
R26: * 7 PRS, UB * (X6) – 48 PRS 
P 27-29:48 PRS 
R30: * 6 PRS, UB * (X6) – 42 PRS 
P 31-33:42 PRS 
P 34: * 5 PRS, UB * (X6) – 36 PRS 
P 35:36 PRS 
P 36: * 4 PRS, UB * (X6) – 30 PRS 
P 37:30 PRS 
P 38: * 3 PRS, UB * (X6) – 24 PRS 
P 39-42:24 PRS 
Fill and sew the head with the body. 

Hand (2): 
Beige 
P 1:6 PRS in the ring 
P2: St (X6) – 12 PRS 
P3: * PRS, D * (X6) – 18 PRS 
P 4-8:18 PRS 
P9: * UB, PRS (X6) – 12 PRS 
P 10-34:12 PRS 
The fill brush is denser than the arm. 
Fold in half and sew 6 stitches. 
Sew to the 8th row of the head.

Feet (2): 
White 
8 VP 
P1: In the second from the Hook loop, D, 5 PRS, 4 PRS in 1, on the second side, 5 PRS, D-18 PRS 
P2: PRS, D, 4 PRs, D (X6), 4 PRS, D, PRS – 26 PRS 
R 3:2 PRS, D, 4 PRS, * PRS, D * (X6), 4 PRS, D, PRS – 34 PRS 
P4: D, 9 PRs, D, * 2 PRS, D * (X5), 8 PRS – 41 PRS 
P5: PRS, D, 39 PRS – 42 PRS 
F6: Behind the back wall, 42 PRS 
Dark grey 
P 7-9:42 PRS 
P 10:12 PRS, UB, * 2 PRS, UB * 9×5), 8 PRS – 36 PRS 
P 11:36 PRS 
P 12:11 PRS, UB, * PRS, UB * (X5), 8 PRS – 30 PRS 
P 13:10 PRS, UB (X6), 8 PRS – 24 PRS 
P 14:24 PRS R15: * 2 PRS, UB * (X6) – 18 PRS 
P 16:18 PRS 
White 
P 17:18 PRS 
Cutting: For the front wall, 18 PRS 
P 19-21:18 PRS 
Beige 
with 18 rows 
R22: Behind the back wall, 18 PRS 
P 23-40:18 PRS 
P 41: * PRS, UB * (X6) – 12 PRS 
P 42: UB (X6) – 6 PRS 
Sew to the 18th row of the body 

Hat 
Lilac 
P 1:6 PRS in the ring 
P2: St (X6) – 12 PRS 
Behind the back wall each row, start with 2 VP, Finish S.P. 
P 3:2 V.P., * PSN, D * (X6) – 18 PSN 
P 4:2 V.P., * 2 PSN, D * (X6) – 24 PSN 
P 5:2 V.P., * 3 PSN, D * (X6) – 30 PSN 
P 6:2 V.P., * 4 PSN, D * (X6) – 36 PSN 
P 7:2 V.P., * 5 PSN, D * (X6) – 42 PSN 
P 8:2, p, * 6 PSN, D * (X6) – 48 PSN 
P 9:2 V.P., * 7 PSN, D * (X6) – 54 PSN 
P 19:2 V.P., * 8 PSN, D * (X6) – 60 PSN 
P 11:2 V.P., * 9 PSN, D * (X6) – 66 PSN 
P 12:2 V.P., * 10 PSN, D * (X6) – 72 PSN 
P 13:2 V.P., * 11 PSN, D * (X6) – 78 PSN 
P 14-22:78 PSN 
P 23:1 V.P., * 2 PRS, UB * (Х17), 8 PRS – 59 PRS 
P 24-25:1 V.P., 59 PRS 
P 26:1 V.P., * 4 PRS, UB * (x9), 5 PRS – 50 PRS 
P 27-30:2 V.P., PR PSN – 100 PSN 
R31: Rachij step. 

Wig: 
P 1:6 PRS in the ring 
P2: St (X6) – 12 PRS 
P3: * PRS, D * (X6) – 18 PRS 
P4: * 2 PRS, D * (X6) – 24 PRS 
P5: * 3 PRS, D * (X6) – 30 PRS 
F6: * 4 PRS, D * (X6) – 36 PRS 
P7: * 5 PRS, D * (X6) – 42 PRS 
F8: * 6 PRS, D * (X6) – 48 PRS 
P9: * 7 PRS, D * (X6) – 54 PRS 
F10: * 8 PRS, D * (X6) – 60 PRS 
P11: * 9 PRS, D * (X6) – 66 PRS 
F12: * 10 PRS, D * (X6) – 72 PRS 
P 13:72 PRS 
Next Knit Hair 
45 V.P., second from Hook Loop, S.P. in each loop, S.P. to Wig (x 62)
View all Images

Dress 
Pink 
P1:40 + 8 VP 
In 9 from the hook Loop 40 prs, turn-40 PRS 
P 2:1 V.P., * 2 PRS, D * (х13), PRS, turn – 53 PRS 
P 3:1 V.P., 6 PRS, 10 V.P., (skip 10 loops), 21 PRs, 10 V.P., (skip 10 loops), 6 PRS, turn-53 PRS 
P 4:1 V.P., 53 PRS, turn 
P 5:1 V.P., * 2 PRS, D * (Х17) 2 PRS – 70 PRS 
P 6:1 V.P., * PRS, D * (x 34), 2 PRS – 104 PRS 
P 7-8:1 V.P., 104 PRS 
P 9:8 V.P., 104 PRS 
P 10-14:1 V.P., 104 PRS 
Then knit in a circle. 
P 15-29:1 V.P., 104 PRS 
P 30:1 V.P., UB, 103 PRS 
P 31:1 V.P., UB, 102 PRS 
Strapping dresses: 
P1: * 3 VP, 2 loops Skip, S.P. * All over the row 
P 2:1 S.P. in the first arch, 3 V.P., 2 PRSs together, 2 V.P., 3 PRSs together, 2 V.P., 2 PRSs together, PRs. 

Apron: 
White 
P 1:15 V.P., start in the second from the Hook 15 prs, turn 
P 2-16:1 V.P., 14 PRS, turn 
P 17:4 V.P., 3 ss2n, 3 PRSs, 3 PSN, 3 PRS, 2 S.P. 

Shorts: 
White 
P 1:60 V.P. 
P 2:3 V.P., 1 loop Skip, 1 PSN, 1 VP, 1 Loop Skip, 1 PSN, 1 VP, 1 Loop Skip, 1 PSN, 1 VP, 1 loop Skip 
P 3-8:3 V.P., 1 PRSs in each loop 
Knitting leg. 
P 9:3 V.P., 30 PRSs, turn 
P 10:3 V.P., 30 PRSs, turn 
P 11:3 V.P., D in each loop, turn 
P 12:3 V.P., PRSs in each loop, turn 
P 13:3 V.P., OL in each loop. 
Similarly knitting the second leg 

Flower: 
P1: In the ring Amigurumi 3 V.P., 2 PRSs, 3 V.P., 1 S.P. (x4)

Jacket: 
P 1:4 V.P. in the ring, 3 V.P., 2 PRSs in the ring, * 3 PRSs, 2 V.P. * (X5) 
P 2:3 V.P., rotation, 2 PRSs in the Arch, 2 V.P., 3 PRSs in the same arch, * 1 V.P., 3 PRSs in the Arch, 2 V.P., 3 PRSs in the same arch * (X5), 2 V.P. P 3:3 V.P., rotation, 2 PRSs in the arch, * 1 V.P., 3 PRSs, 2 V.P., 3 PRSs in the same arch, 1 V.P., 3 PRSs * (X5) 
P 4:3 V.P., rotation, 2 PRSs, * 1 VP, 3 PRSs, 2 VP, 3 PRSs in the same arch, 1 VP, 3 PRSs, 1 VP, 3 PRSs, 1 VP, 3 PRSs * (X5), 1 VP, 3 PRSs, 1 VP 
P 5:3 V.P., turn, 2 PRSs in the Arch, 1 V.P., 3 PRSs, * 1 V.P., 3 PRSs, 2 V.P., 3 PRSs in the same arch, 1 V.P., 3 PRSs, 1 V.P., 3 PRSs, 1 V.P., 3 PRSs * (X5), 1 V.P., 3 PRSs, 2 V.P., 3 PRSs, 1 VP , 3 PRSs, 1b. P. 
Knit similar to the second part, fold the letter L, Obvjazyvaem and sew.

More Amigurumi Doll Ideas:

What you need to make your crochet flamingo

• 8cm/3.15″ shutterproof bauble (optional)
• 50g/120 yards Knitcraft Cotton Blend Plain in Coral (50% cotton, 50% acrylic) or any other DK/light worsted cotton, or cotton blend yarn in coral or light pink
• small amount of cotton/cotton blend in black and white
• fiberfill
• 3.5 mm crochet hook / US E-4
• 15 cm ribbon
• pins
• stitch marker
• blunt tapestry needle with bent tip

Abbreviations

R = row

Rd = round

ch = chain

st(s) = stitch(es)

yo = yarn over

sc = single crochet

Inc = single crochet 2 in same st

Dc inc = double crochet increase: dc 2 in same st

sk = skip

sl st = slip stitch

Dec = invisible decrease: insert hook in front loops of next 2 sts, yo, pull through both front loops, yo, pull through 2 remaining loops

C1 = Coral/light pink

C2 = Black

C3 = White

Amigurumi Flamingo Free Pattern

Gauge/Tension

4″ x 4″ (10.16 x 10.16 cm) = 19 sts x 20 rows of sc

Instructions

Begin with the tail feathers, because you will need them to be ready for when you crochet the body. They will be crocheted in with the body while the other body parts will be sewn on later.

Make the tail feathers (in C1)

4th row of tail feathers:

R 1: Ch 9, sc in next 8 ch (starting from 2nd from hook)

R 2: Ch 10, sc in next 9 ch (starting from 2nd from hook)

R 3: Ch 11, sc in next 10 ch (starting from 2nd from hook)

R 4: Ch 10, sc in next 9 ch (starting from 2nd from hook)

R 5: Ch 9, sc in next 8 ch (starting from 2nd from hook)

Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.

Put them aside and crochet the other 3 rows of tail feathers. You will work them in when you crochet the body/bauble.

3rd row of tail feathers:

R 1: Ch 10, sc in next 9 ch (starting from 2nd from hook)

R 2: Ch 11, sc in next 10 ch (starting from 2nd from hook)

R 3: Ch 11, sc in next 10 ch (starting from 2nd from hook)

R 4: Ch 10, sc in next 9 ch (starting from 2nd from hook)

Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.

2nd row of tail feathers:

R 1: Ch 10, sc in next 9 ch (starting from 2nd from hook)

R 2: Ch 11, sc in next 10 ch (starting from 2nd from hook)

R 3: Ch 10, sc in next 9 ch (starting from 2nd from hook)

Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.

1st row of tail feathers:

R 1: Ch 10, sc in next 9 ch (starting from 2nd from hook)

R 2: Ch 10, sc in next 9 ch (starting from 2nd from hook)

Make the body (in C1)

Rd 1: Sc 6 in a magic ring (6)

Rd 2: Inc in all 6 st (12) Place stitch marker in last st.

Rd 3: [sc in next st, inc in next st] repeat 6 times (18)

Rd 4: [sc in next 2 st, inc in next st] repeat 6 times (24)

Rd 5: [sc in next 3 st, inc in next st] repeat 6 times (30)

Rd 6: [sc in next 4 st, inc in next st] repeat 6 times (36)

Rd 7: [sc in next 5 st, inc in next st] repeat 6 times (42)

Rd 8: [sc in next 6 st, inc in next st] repeat 6 times (48)

Rd 9: [sc in next 7 st, inc in next st] repeat 6 times (54)

Rd 10: [sc in next 8 st, inc in next st] repeat 6 times (60)

Rd 11 – 18 (8 rds): Sc in all 60 st (60)

Rd 19: Sc in next 3 st, sc the next 4 sts together with the 1st row of tail feathers, sc in next 53 st (60)

Pin the 2nd row of feathers over the 1st row that you attached in the previous round. Pin it in place with the upper right corner aligning with the 3rd sc of the round. The 3 feathers should be offset with the 2 feathers of the previous round.

Rd 20: Sc in next 2 st, sc the next 6 sts together with the 2nd row of tail feathers, sc in next 52 st (60)

Pin the 3rd row of feathers over the 2nd row. Pin it in place with the upper right corner aligning with the 2nd sc of the round. The 4 feathers should be offset with the 3 feathers of the previous round and align with the 2 feathers of rd 19.

Rd 21: Sc in next st, sc the next 8 sts together with the 3rd row of tail feathers, sc in next 51 st (60)

Pin the 4th row of feathers over the 3rd row. Pin it in place with the upper right corner aligning with the 1st sc of the round. The 5 feathers should be offset with the 4 feathers of the previous round and align with the 3 feathers of rd 20.

Rd 22: Sc the next 10 sts together with the4th row of tail feathers, sc in next 50 st (60)

Rd 23: [sc in next 8 st, dec] repeat 6 times (54)

Rd 24: [sc in next 7 st, dec] repeat 6 times (48)

Insert the bauble, remove its cap. Continue crocheting around the bauble. If you are making your flamingo without a bauble, fill it with fiberfill as you go.

Rd 25: [sc in next 6 st, dec] repeat 6 times (42)

Rd 26: [sc in next 5 st, dec] repeat 6 times (36)

Rd 27: [sc in next 4 st, dec] repeat 6 times (30)

Rd 28: [sc in next 3 st, dec] repeat 6 times (24)

Rd 29: [sc in next 2 st, dec] repeat 6 times (18)

Fasten off. Hide the yarn end inside the bauble, put the cap back on.

If you filled the body with fiberfill instead of a bauble, crochet 2 more rds:

Rd 30: [sc in next st, dec] repeat 6 times (12)

Rd 31: Dec 6 times (6)

Fasten off.

Make the wings (in C1)

Left wing:

Leaving a long tail for sewing, ch 4

R 1: Inc in next 3 ch (starting from 2nd from hook) (6)

R 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in all 6 st (6)

R 3: Ch 1, turn, [sc in next st, inc] repeat 3 times (9)

R 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in all 9 st (9)

R 5: Ch 1, turn, [sc in next 2 st, inc] repeat 3 times (12)

R 6 & 7 (2 rs): Ch 1, turn, sc in all 12 st (12)

R 8: Ch 1, turn, sc in next st, sk next st, sc in next 10 st (11)

R 9: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 9 st, sk next st, sc in next st (10)

R 10: Ch 1, turn, sc in next st, sk next st, sc in next 8 st (9)

R 11: Ch 1, turn, sc in next st, sk next st, sc in next 5 st, sk next st, sc in next st (7)

R 12: Ch 1, turn, inc in next st, sc in next 4 st, sk next st, sc in next st (7)

R 13: Ch 1, turn, sc in next st, sk next st, sc in next 5 st (6)

R 14: Ch 1, turn, inc in next st, sc in next 3 st, sk next st, sc in next st (6)

R 15: Ch 1, turn, sc in next st, sk next st, sc in next 4 st (5)

R 16: Ch 1, turn, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, sk next st, sc in next st (5)

R 17: Ch 1, turn, sc in next st, sk next st, sc in next 2 st, inc in next st (5)

R 18: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 3 st, sk next st, sc in next st (4)

R 19: Ch 1, turn, sc in next st, sk next st, sc in next 2 st (3)

R 20: Ch 1, turn, sc in next st, sk next st, sc in next st (2)

R 21: Ch 1, turn, sk next st, sl st in next st (1)

Sc all around the wing from where you are: Sc 1 in the side of each row (21) towards the top of the wing, sc 1 in the middle ch on top of the wing, sc 1 in the side of each row (21) back down towards the tip of the wing.

Slip stitch and fasten off with an invisible finish. Weave in the yarn end.

Right wing:

Leaving a long tail for sewing, ch 4

R 1: Inc in next 3 ch (starting from 2nd from hook) (6)

R 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in all 6 st (6)

R 3: Ch 1, turn, [inc in next st, sc in next st] repeat 3 times (9)

R 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in all 9 st (9)

R 5: Ch 1, turn, [inc in next st, sc in next 2 st] repeat 3 times (12)

R 6 & 7 (2 rs): Ch 1, turn, sc in all 12 st (12)

R 8: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 10 st, sk next st, sc in next st (11)

R 9: Ch 1, turn, sc in next st, sk next st, sc in next 9 st (10)

R 10: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 8 st, sk next st, sc in next st (9)

R 11: Ch 1, turn, sc in next st, sk next st, sc in next 5 st, sk next st, sc in next st (7)

R 12: Ch 1, turn, sc in next st, sk next st, sc in 4 next st, inc in next st (7)

R 13: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 5 st, sk next st, sc in next st (6)

R 14: Ch 1, turn, sc in next st, sk next st, sc in next 3 st, inc in next st (6)

R 15: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 4 st, sk next st, sc in next st (5)

R 16: Ch 1, turn, sc in next st, sk next st, sc in next 2 st, inc in next st (5)

R 17: Ch 1, turn, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, sk next st, sc in next st (5)

R 18: Ch 1, turn, sc in next st, sk next st, sc in next 3 st (4)

R 19: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 2 st, sk next st, sc in next st (3)

R 20: Ch 1, turn, sc in next st, sk next st, sc in next st (2)

R 21: Ch 1, turn, sk next st, sl st in next st (1)

Sc all around the wing from where you are:

Sc 1 in the side of each row (21) towards the of the wing, sc 1 in the middle ch on top of the wing, sc 1 in the side of each row (21) back down towards the tip of the wing.

Fasten off with an invisible finish. Weave in the yarn end.

Make the legs (in C1)

Right leg:

Leaving a long tail for sewing ch 8, close to a round with 1 sl st in 1st chain

Rd 1 – 12 (12 rds): Sc in all 8 st (Stuff with fiberfill as you go. You can push the stuffing in with the back of your hook.)

Rd 13: [sc in next st, inc in next st] repeat 4 times (12)

Rd 14: Sc in all 12 st (12)

Rd 15: [sc in next st, dec] repeat 4 times (8)

Rd 16 – 28 (13 rds): Sc in all 8 st

Continue with the foot from where you are:

R 1: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 4 st (starting from 2nd from hook) (4)

R 2: Ch 1, turn, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, inc in next st (6)

R 3: Ch 1, turn, inc in next st, sc in next 4 st, inc in next st (8)

R 4 to 7 (4 rs): Ch 1, turn, sc in all 8 st (8)

R 8: Ch 1, turn, sc in next st, sk next st, sc in next 4 st, sk next st, sc in next st (6)

R 9: Ch 1, turn, sc in next st, sk next st, sc in next 2 st, sk next st, sc in next st (4)

R 10 & 11 (2 rs): Ch 1, turn, sc in all 4 st (4)

R 12: Ch 1, turn, fold over, sl st in next 4 st (through both layers to form the heel)

Pull yarn through and leave a long tail for sewing. Close one side of the foot and stitch in between the webs. Close the other side of the foot, fasten off and weave in end.

Left leg:

Leaving a long end for sewing, ch 4

R 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, inc in next ch, sc in next ch (4)

R 2 to 4 (3 rs): Ch 1, turn, sc in all 4 st (4)

R 5: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 4 st, ch 4 (8)

Rd 1: Sc in the last st of the row to close to a round, sc in next 7 st (8)

Rd 2 – 12 (11 rds): Sc in all 8 st (fill with fiberfill as you go)

Make the knee joint, working in rows:

R 1: Sc in next 3 st

R 2: Ch 1, turn, [sc in next st, inc in next st] repeat 2 times (6)

R 3 & 4 (2 rs): Ch 1, turn, sc in all 6 st (6)

R 5: Ch 1, turn, sc in next st, sk next st, sc in next 2 st, sk next st, sc in next st (4)

Close to rd:

Rd 1: Sc 2 down the side of the knee joint, sc in next 4 st, sc 2 up the other side of the knee joint, sc in next 4 st (12)

Rd 2: [sc in next st, dec] repeat 4 times (8)

Continue leg:

Rd 3 – 14 (12 rds): Sc in all 8 st (8)

Make the left foot the same way you did the right one.

Make the beak, head and neck (in C1, C2 and C3)

Beak (in C2 and C3)

Using C2 (black) make a magic ring.

Rd 1: Sc 4 in the magic ring (4)

Rd 2 & 3 (2 rds): Sc in all 4 st (4)

Rd 4: Sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next st, inc in next st (6)

Rd 5: Sc in next 5 st, change color to C3 (white) in a sc (6)

Rd 6: Sc in next 3 st, dc in next st, dc inc in next st, dc in next st (7)

Rd 7: Inc in next st, sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next st, inc in next st (11)

Rd 8: Sc in next 10 st, change color to C1 (coral) in a sc  (11)

Make the head (in C1)

Rd 9: (sc only in front loops in this rd): Sc in next 3 st, [inc in next st, sc in next st] repeat 4 times (15)

Rd 10: Sc in next 15 st (15)

Rd 11: Sc in next 5 st, inc in next st, sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st (19)

Rd 12 & 13 (2rds): Sc in all 19 st (19)

Rd 14: Sc in next 12 st, hdc in next 2 st, dc in next 3 st, hdc in next 2 st (19)

Rd 15: Sc in next 12 st, hdc in next 2 st, dc in next 3 st, hdc in next 2 st (19)

Rd 16: Sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next st, dec, sc in next st, dec, sc in next 2 st, hdc in next 7 st (16)

Rd 17: Sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next st, dec, sc in next 2 st, hdc in next 7 st (14) 

Rd 18: Sc in next 9 st, hdc in next 3 st, sc in next 2 st (14)

Embroider the eyes (in C2)

Embroider the eyes with black yarn or embroidery thread and a large eyed sewing needle.

Fill the head with fiberfill and crochet the neck.

Rd 19: Dec, sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next 4 st (11)

Rd 20 – 23 (4 rds): Sc in next 7 st, hdc in next 4 st (11)

Rd 24 – 26 (3 rds): Hdc in next st, sc in next 7 st, hdc in next 3 st (11)

Rd 27 – 36 (10 rds): Sc in all 11 st (11)

Fill the neck with fiberfill. You can push it in with the back of your hook. Make sure the head and neck are stuffed enough to hold their shape.

Continue working in rows to create the lower part of the neck.

R 1: Sc 1

R 2 to 4 (3 rs): Ch 1, turn, sc in next 4 st

R 5: Ch 1, turn, [sk next st, sc in next st] repeat 2 times

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Attach the legs

Start with the right (straight leg). Make sure that it is enough stuffed and add fiberfill if necessary.

Pin the leg close to the bottom middle, right next to the magic ring. Double check if the foot is pointing forward and if it is in the desired position. Sew all around the leg twice to make sure it is firmly attached. Weave in the end.

Pin the left (bent) leg close to the right leg. Make sure it’s in the desired position by looking at it from each side. Sew on the leg by stitching around it twice to make sure it’s firmly attached. Weave in the end.

Attach the head

Add more stuffing to the neck if necessary. Attach it to the front of the body in the upper half, close to the bauble’s cap.

Make sure it aligns with the legs and the tail feathers.

Sew 2 rounds around the neck to ensure it’s firmly attached. Weave in the end.

Attach the wings

Pin one of the wings in place.  First sew 2/3 of the top side on from where the “shoulder” towards the tip.

Then lift the wing and stitch through the body to the bottom side of the wing.

Sew along the bottom side of the wing, back towards the “shoulder” to where you started.

Weave in the end. Repeat with the other wing.

Make the santa hat (optional)

If you’re making your crochet flamingo as an exotic addition to your Christmas decorations, you might wanna make her a festive Santa hat.

You need:

• A small amount of red and white cotton yarn (DK/Light worsted weight)
• 3.5mm/ E hook

Instructions:

Using white yarn ch 14

Rd 1: Join 1st ch in a sl st to form a circle, sc in next 14 st (14) 

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Flip the circle around.

Rd 1: Using red yarn join the other side of the chain in a sc, sc 11 more forming a complete round (12)

Rd 2: [Sc in next st, dec] repeat 4 times (8)

Rd 3 & 4 (2 rds): Sc in all 8 st(8)

Rd 5: Dec 3 times (leave the last 2 sts)

Fasten off, stitch end through tip of hat to the inside. Weave in the other end.

Make the pom pom using white yarn: Ch 3

R 1: Sc in 2nd from hook, sc in next st

R 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 2 st

Fasten off, tie both ends together tightly to shape a pom pom.

Thread both ends onto one needle and stitch through tip of hat. Make a few knots and cut the ends short.

You can sew the hat on the head if you want it there permanently, or pin it on with pins temporarily (please only if it’s not in reach of young children or pets).

More Amigurumi Flamingo Ideas:

Now you can make this for a baby in your life! Turn it into a doll, or add the rattle for fun, and the hair serves as fun textures for little fingers to play with! Wow your friends with this fun baby shower gift!  

Materials:
Hook size D – 3.25mm
Worsted weight yarns in the colors of your choice. I used yarns on the thinner side, due to the size of the hook, so a 3 might be best, but 4 would work too.
Used here:
Tail – Fairy Tale Knits hand dyed yarn, Triton colorway (her variegated yarns are absolutely perfect for mermaid tails!) – approximately 12 yrds
Skin – Vanna’s Choice, Beige – approximately 15 yrds
Hair – Red Heart Soft, Coral – approximately 35 yrds
Small amounts of worsted weight yarn in black for the eyes.
1.5 inch rattle insert (their smaller sized rattle would also work, just use extra stuffing!)
Small amount of polyester fiberfill for stuffing
Tapestry needle

Terms and abbreviations to know:
Magic ring
rnd, rnds – round, rounds
ch, chs – chain, chains
st, sts – stitch, stitches
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
BLO – back loop only
inc – increase, 2 sc together into the same st
dec – decrease, connect 2 sts into 1 sts
hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 together, a decrease using hdc
​inv – invisible
invsc2tog  – invisible single crochet 2 together; this is essentially a decrease, but done in such a way as to make the continuous stitching smoother and the decrease not as noticeable

1. Insert hook into front loop only of next stitch, DO NOT yarn over.
2. Insert hook into front loop of second stitch.
3. Yarn over. Pull through 2 loops.
4. Yarn over and pull through last loop.​

Notes: This pattern begins at the bottom with the tail fin, working in rows, but switching to rnds after completing the fin. Chs do not count toward sts on the turns, and rnds are worked continuously, without joining. Arms and hair are made separately and sewn onto the body. 

Amigurumi Mermaid Doll Free Pattern

​Ch 11
Row 1: hdc in 3rd ch from the hook and next 5 chs, sl st in last 3 chs; 9 sts
Row 2: ch 1 and turn, BLO sl st in next 3 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc2tog; 7 sts
Row 3: ch 1 and turn, BLO, 2 hdc2tog, sl st in next 3 ts; 5 sts
Row 4: ch 1 and turn, BLO, sc in each st across; 5 sts
Row 5: ch 1 and turn, BLO, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, sl st in next 3 sts; 7 sts
Row 6: ch 1 and turn, BLO, sl st in next 3 sts, hdc in 2 next sts, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sts; 9 sts
Row 7: ch 1 and turn, BLO, hdc in next 6 sts, sl st in next 3 sts; 9 sts
Ch 1, but do NOT turn. Work 5 sc across the flat end of the rows.

The pattern will switch here to working in rnds. 
Rnd 1: ch 1 and turn, sc 5 across in FLO, then turn and sc 5 across in the unworked loops behind, do not join; 10 sts

Rnd 2: sc in each st around; 10 sts
Rnd 3: (inc, sc in next st)5x; 15 sts
Rnd 4: sc in each st around; 15 sts
Rnd 5: (inc, sc in next 4 sts)3x; 18 sts
Rnd 6: sc in each st around; 18 sts
Rnd 7: (inc, sc in next 2 sts)6x; 24 sts
Rnd 8: (inc, sc in next 3 sts)6x; 30 sts
Rnds 9-11: sc in each st around; 30 sts
Rnd 12: (invsc2tog, sc in next 3 sts)6x; 24 sts
Attach skin color and fasten off fin color.
Rnd 13: (sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts)6x; 18 sts
Stop here to tidy up the tail. Using your beginning string, weave through the base of the tail, between the tail and the fin. Pull it snug to give it a thinner look through there, weave the end into the inside of the body, and knot it off.
Then begin with a little bit of stuffing in the bottom of the tail. Add the rattle, and stuff around the rattle gently. 

Stuff a little more around the rattle insert. Then continue with skin color.
​Rnd 14: (sc2tog, sc in next st)6x; 12 sts
Rnd 15: sc in each st around; 12 sts
Stuff a bit more, then we will be working on the head. 
Rnd 16: inc in each st around; 24 sts
Rnd 17: (inc, sc in next 3 sts)6x; 30 sts
Rnds 18-23: sc in each st around; 30 sts
Rnd 24: (sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts)6x; 24 sts
Rnd 25: (sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts)6x; 18 sts
Stop here to embroider the facial features. Place the nose over the center 2 sts of rnd 20, and the eyes each beginning 1 st over from the nose, spanning over 2 sts. 

Rnd 26: (sc2tog, sc in next st)6x; 12 sts
Complete stuffing.
Rnd 27: (sc2tog, sc in next st)4x; 8 sts
Fasten off, and use the tail to weave through the top, sewing it closed. Knot, and weave in end. Arms (make 2)
Begin with a magic ring
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring; 6 sts
Rnds 2-7: sc in each st around; 6 sts
Do not stuff.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew down to sides. Hair
Begin with magic ring
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring; 6 sts
Use BLO throughout
Rnd 2: inc in each st around; 12 sts
Rnd 3: (inc, sc in next st)6x; 18 sts
Rnd 4: (inc, sc in next 2 sts)6x; 24 sts
Rnd 5: (inc, sc in next 3 sts)6x; 30 sts
Rnd 6: sc in each st around; 30 sts
Now, sl st into the BLO of next st, and turn work so that you can work in the opposite direction, working backwards around the spiral. First using the back loops of last rnd, then working your way through the unworked front loops of all the previous rnds; sl st into first loop, (ch 6, turn, inc in 2nd ch from hook, inc in next ch, sc in next 3 chs, sl st into next 2 front loops). Do this all the way back to the center of the hair, following the unworked loops. 

More Amigurumi Mermaid Doll Ideas:

Size

Will fit any of my larger long-legged animals like this bunny and cat.

Materials & Tools

– Yarn. It is best to use the same brand of yarn for the body and the shoes.
– Crochet hook according to the yarn.
– Stuffing – polyester fiberfill, wool, wadding etc.
– Yarn needle, scissors, stitch marker.

Abbreviations

– st = stitch
– ch = chain stitch 
– sl st = slip stitch 
– sc = single crochet stitch 
– hdc = half double crochet stitch 
– dc = double crochet stitch 
– fp-hdc = front post half double crochet stitch (see below)
– sc n = make n single crochet stitches (or ch, hdc etc.), one in each stitch 
– inc = increase – make two single crochet stitches in to the same stitch 
– inc3 = double increase – three single crochet stitches in to the same stitch
– dc-inc3 = crochet three double crochet stitches in to the same stitch
– dec = invisble decrease – crochet two single crochet stitches together 
– sc2tog = regular decrease – crochet two single crochet stitches together
– (sc 2, inc) x n = repeat the pattern between parentheses n times 
– (24) = number of stitches in a round after finishing said round

Notes

– The soles are worked in spiral. Start joining rounds from row 4.
– Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to mark the end or the beginning of a round. Move the marker up after completing each round. 
– All stitches are worked in to both loops unless stated otherwise in the pattern.

Amigurumi Doll Shoes Free Pattern

Shoes

Worked from the center of the sole (tutorial).

1: ch 9, two sc in to the second chain from
hook, sc 6, four sc in to the first chain

Turn and work on other side of beginning chain.

sc 6, two sc in to the last chain (four total)
2: inc3, sc 4, hdc, dc 2, dc-inc3 x 4, dc 2, 
hdc, sc 5 = (30)
3: inc x 3, sc 8, inc x 2, sc 1, inc, sc 2, inc, 
sc 1, inc x 2, sc 9 = (39)

Sc in next st, sl st in next st. Move the stitch 
marker in to the sl st and count it as the round 
end from now on.

Crochet round 4 through the back loops only.

4: sl st, ch 2, sc 38, join the round with a 
sl st through the second chain = (39)
5: ch 2, sc 12, hdc, dc 13, hdc, sc 11, 
join with a sl st = (39)
6: ch 2, sc 8, hdc 3, (fp-hdc, hdc 2) x 6, 
hdc, sc 8, join with a sl st = (39)
7: ch 2, sc 8, hdc 3, ( fp-hdc, skip a st, 
hdc) x 6, hdc 2, sc 7, join sl st = (33)
8: ch 2, sc 8, dec, sc, (fp-hdc, skip one 
st) x 6, sc, dec, sc 6, join sl st = (25) 
9: ch 2, sc 7, dec, sc, dec x 3, sc, dec,
sc 5, join with a sl st = (20)

Crochet a row of slip stitches between rows 
8 and 9 (see below). Make a bow and sew it 
on. Stuff the shoes lightly.

Switch to “body yarn” and crochet the first
row of the legs through the back loops only.
Continue crocheting the legs in spiral.

10(leg): (sc 1, sc2tog) x 6, sc 2 = (14)

Crochet a row of single crochet stitches into
the front loops of row 9 with the “shoe yarn”.

10(shoe): ch, sc in each stitch, join with
a sl st = (20)

Cut the yarn and fasten off neatly (tutorial 2).
Continue crocheting the legs following your
pattern.

Bow

Work all stitches in to an adjustable loop.

1: (ch 3, dc 2, sc) x 2

Draw the center tightly closed. Cut the yarn,
leaving a long yarn tail and fasten off. Wrap 
the yarn tail around the center a few times 
and knot the yarn tails togeteher.

Front post half double crochet stitch

Embellishments

a) Make a bow. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing.

b) Crochet a row of slip stitches between rows 8 and 9. Start where you plan to sew the bow.

Sew on the bow, covering the place where the end and the beginning of the row of slip stitches meet. Finish the shoes and stuff them. Continue crocheting the legs.

You will need:
Worsted Size 4 Yarn in a skin color, main color and accent color (about 150g total)
Yarn for hair
Crochet Hook in Size 3.5
Yarn Needle
Polyfil (this kind is the ABSOLUTE best for amigurumi)
10.5 mm safety eyes
stitch marker
Foam Hair Roller (see this post for more information)close

Abbreviations
SC- single crochet

SC INC- single crochet increase (2 SC in each stitch)

INV DEC- Invisible decrease (put hook through the FRONT LOOP ONLY of two consecutive stitches [two loops on hook] Yarn over pull through both loops. [two loops on hook] Yarn over pull through two loops)

Magic Circle- Make a loop, leaving a long tail to work with. Insert hook in center of loop, yarn over and draw up a loop. Yarn over, pull through to make the first chain (this does not count as a stitch!). Continue to crochet over the loop and tail with the number of stitches called for. (If you need 6 SC, then crochet 6 SC inside the ring.) Pull the tail to close the circle.
Always move your stitch marker to the last stitch in the round. This pattern is worked in continuous rounds.

To change color- Start your stitch, but pull the new color through the final loop. In the next stitch, very lightly slip stitch instead of a single crochet. Continue on as normal. This helps make the transition easier and look smoother.

Amigurumi Friendly Superhero Free Pattern

Let’s begin! 
Mask (even though you are making the mask, you won’t attach it until the end. It will help to place the eyes and hair however, so I recommend making it first.)
Using the accent color:
Chain 22. DC in the 3 chain from hook. DC in each across. Turn. (20 DC)
Chain 15. Count 9 DC over. Slip stitch to the 9th DC. Slip stitch in the next 3. Chain 15 more and connect it with a slip stitch to the last DC. Chain 1 and turn. HDC in the next 13 chains. Skip one and slip stitch to the next. Slip stitch in the next (this is the gap between the eyes). Slip stitch to the chain. Skip one on the next set of chains and HDC in the next 13. Connect with a slip stitch to the last DC. Fasten off leaving a long tail to attach the mask to the face.

Legs (using the Super Boots color)
Round 1: In a magic circle, SC 6
Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: SC in first, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (18)
Round 4-15: SC in each stitch around. (18)
Change to main color here.
Rounds 16-38: SC in each stitch around. (18)
Fasten off.
Repeat for the second leg but do not fasten off. Instead, chain 3 and then SC in the next stitch of the other leg. Take care to crochet over the tail left over by fastening off. SC around the entire leg. When you come to the three chains, SC in each chain around the next leg. SC over the chain back to the other leg. In the last SC on the last chain place your stitch marker. (This is round 39.)
Watch this video on how to attach the legs if you need additional help!
Body
Round 40: SC around. (42)
Rounds 41-46: SC in each around. (42)
Change to accent color for the belt.
Rounds 47-50: SC around (42)
Back to main color.
Rounds 51-60: SC around (42)
Round 61: 4 SC, INV DEC, repeat around. (35)
Round 62: 3 SC, INV DEC, repeat around. (28)
Round 63: 2 SC, INV DEC, repeat around.(21)
Change to skin color.
Round 64: 1 SC, INV DEC, repeat around. (14)
Round 65: SC in each stitch around. (14) 
INV DEC until you have 12 stitches on the round. From here we will be increasing the head. From this point I am resetting the number on the rounds. Round 66 of the body is now Round 1 of the head. It will be easy to see and helps for eye/mask placement and general counting.

Head
Round 1: SC in first, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (18)
Round 2: SC in first 2, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (24)
Round 3: SC in first 3, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (30)
Round 4: SC in first 4, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (36)
Round 5: SC in first 5, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (42)
Round 6: SC in first 6, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (48)
Round 7: SC in first 7, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (54)
Round 8-23: SC in each stitch around. (54)

Place the safety eyes in between rows 15 and 16, nine stitches apart. Line up your mask to make sure that they fit well. Sew on eyelashes here. See Best Tips and Tricks for Crochet Doll Faces. This is also a good time to place the foam roller or dowel if you are using one. Make sure to stuff the neck around the dowel as well as you can. See this post for more information.
Round 24: SC in the first 7, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (48)
Round 25: SC in the first 6, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (42)
Round 26: SC in the first 5, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (36)
Round 27:  SC in the first 4, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (30)
Round 28: SC in the first 3, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (24)
Round 29: SC in the first 2, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (18)
Round 30: SC in the first, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (12)
Round 30: INV DEC around. (6)
Fasten off and carefully sew the remaining hole closed. Leave a long tail to make the nose.

More Amigurumi Superhero Ideas:

No one knows what kind of accident this little crocheted bot has been in, but it was clearly a bad one. Someone has patched him up, rather roughly, but he still needs a lot of care to nurse him back to health. When you do, he’ll be your friend for life.
 
Adapted from “Crobots” by Nelly Pailloux, published by Andrews McMeel. Images by Andrew Perris.
 
YOU WILL NEED
• crochet hook, size C2 (2.75 mm)
• stitch marker or paper clip
• 1 yarn needle
• 1 embroidery needle
• fiberfill to stuff the bot
• textured beige yarn (DK) or light worsted (#3)
• black embroidery floss (2 strands)
• beige embroidery floss (1 strand)
• 3 medium-sized screws, 3⁄4 inch (15 mm) long
• 1 small nail
• 2 small gray shirt buttons
• 2 small springs (dismantle 2 retractable ballpoint pens to obtain these)
 
PATTERN STITCHES
• single crochet
 
ABBREVIATIONS: ch = chain st = stitch sl st = slip stitch sc = single crochet hdc = half-double crochet sc dec = single crochet decrease (decrease over 2 stitches) blo = back loops only * = repeat instructions between asterisks

Amigurumi Zombie Free Pattern

Step 1

To make the head, using spotty beige yarn:
 
Round 1 Start 6 sc in a magic ring (6)
Round 2 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Round 3 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc repeat 6 times (18)
Round 4 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc repeat 6 times (24)
Round 5 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc repeat 6 times (30)
Rounds 6 to 10 sc in each sc around (30)
Round 11 * sc dec, sc in next 3 sc* repeat 6 times (24)
Round 12 * sc dec, sc in next 2 sc* repeat 6 times (18)
Round 13 * sc in next sc, sc dec* repeat 6 times (12)
Stuff firmly sl st in next sc and tie off, leave long tail to attach to body

Step 2

To make the body, using spotty beige yarn:
 
Round 1 Start 6 sc in a magic ring (6)
Round 2 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Round 3 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc repeat 6 times (18)
Round 4 in blo, sc in each sc around (18)
Rounds 5 to 11 sc in each sc around (18)
Stuff firmly
sl st in next sc and tie off, weave in the end yarn

Step 3

To make the arms, using spotty beige yarn:
 
Round 1 Start 4 sc in a magic ring (4)
Round 2 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc repeat twice (6)
Rounds 3 to 5 sc in each sc around (6)
sl st in next sc and tie off, leave long tail to sew
to body
Stuff lightly
Make 2

Step 4

To make the legs, using spotty beige yarn:
 
Round 1 Start 6 sc in a magic ring (6)
Round 2 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc repeat twice (8)
Round 3 in blo, sc dec, sc in next 2 sc repeat twice (6)
Rounds 4 to 6 sc in each sc around (6)
sl st in next sc and tie off, leave long tail to sew to body
Stuff firmly
Make 2

Step 5

TO ASSEMBLE ZOMBIEBOT
 
• Stuff the head firmly, thread an embroidery needle with two strands of black floss, and embroider two scars on Zombiebot’s face. Use the photograph as a guide to place them, and make each from one long straight stitch with plenty of tiny straight stitches crossing it at right angles. Using one strand of beige floss, attach the left eye to the head.
 
• To make the damaged right eye, take one of the pen springs and sew one end of it to the face, using the beige floss. Attach the other end of the spring low on the face, then add a button at the lower end with several stitches, so that the eye appears to be dangling loosely on the cheek.
 
• Stuff the body firmly and embroider it with a scar in black floss, using the same process as the face scars. Attach the second spring across the upper left torso, stitching it on at each end with beige thread.
 
• Attach Zombiebot’s head to his body using the leftover tail of yarn.
 
• Stuff the arms. Attach the left arm to the body by its tail of yarn. For the hanging right arm, leave the top open with some stuffing protruding, and attach it on a length of yarn about one-half inch long, leaving it hanging loosely against Zombiebot’s side.
 
• Stuff the legs. Embroider a tiny scar on the right leg, and attach both legs to the body with the tails of yarn left over from crocheting.
 
• Using the photograph as a reference, gently press the screws and the nail into position on Zombiebot’s head.

More Amigurumi Zombie Ideas:

Amigurumi Doll Sweet Girl Free Pattern

Amigurumi Doll Materials:
Charm yarn (cotton) in colors: 8001-White, 3526-pink, 7684-nude, 6218-
Lilac and and yarn Bella color: 1785-brown. Hook 2.5 mm.
Filler.
Blue and white fetr for eyes.
Safe Eyes 15mm.
About 10 cm rigid multi-conductor wire to support the head.
Sewing needle.
Textile glue.

Reduce:
CA-Amaguumi Ring
VP-Air Loop
SS-Connecting Column
RVN-Non-scale pillar
PRSPs-Semi-stacked with scale
PRSs-a column with a scale
PR-Add
UB-Ubava
()-The total number of loops in a row

Hands. (2 pcs)
Bodily Color Dial 4 VP
1) in the 2nd loop from the hook, 2 SBN, 3 in one loop, on the opposite side, 1 SBN,
1 d = (8)
2) 8 SBN = (8)
3) 4 SBN, 3 D, 1 SBN = (11)
4) 3 PRSs in one loop, 10 SBN = (11)
Note: In the fourth row of the second hand-4 SBN, 3 PRSs in one loop, 6 SBN = (11)
5) 2 SBN, 1 UB, 2 SBN, 2 ub, 1 SBN = (8)
6) 5 SBN, 2 D, 1 SBN = (10)
7) 4 SBN, (1 PR, 1 SBN) x3 = (13)
8-10) 13 SBN = (13)
11) 6 SBN, 1 UB, 1 SBN, 1 ub, 2 SBN = (11)
Change to pink color.
12) behind the back wall of the Loop 6, (1 PR, 1 SBN) х2, 1 SBN = (13)
13) 13 SBN = (13)
14) 6 UB, 1 SBN = (7)
15) 2 SBN, fill and close 3 GB
Make sleeve cuff on the front loops of 12 rows
1) (1 cc, 3 VP, 1 Loop Skip) to the end of the series

Feet. (2 pcs)
White Color Dial 5 VP
1) in the 2nd loop from the hook, 3 SBN, 3 in one loop, on the opposite side,
2 SBN, 1 d = (10)
2) 1 D, 2 SBN, 3 D, 2 sat, 2 d = (16)
Change to Lilac color.
3) 16 on the back wall of the loop = (16)
Change to White color
4) 16 SBN = (16)
5) 5 SBN, (1 PR, 1 SBN) х3, 5 SBN = (19)
6) 4 SBN, 5 ub, 5 SBN = (14)
Change to Pink color
7) 4 SBN, 3 UB, 3 SBN, 1 d = (12)
8) (2 SBN, 1 d) 4x = (16)
Change to Flesh color
9) behind the back wall of the loop 16 SBN = (16)
10) 16 SBN = (16)
11) 3 SBN, 1 D, 7 SBN, 1 D, 3 SBN, 1 d = (19)
12-13) 19 SBN = (19)
14) 1 UB, 2 SBN, 1 UB, 5 SBN, 1 UB, 2 SBN, 2 UB = (14)
15) 1 Ave, 11 rnd, 2 d = (17)
16) 1 SBN, 1 Ave, 11 SBN, (1 SBN, 1 d) x2 = (20)
17-18) 20 SBN = (20)
19) (4 SBN, 1 d) x4 = (24)
20-21) 24 rн = (24)
22) 23 SBN, 1 SS, fasten, thread trim and fill.
Make lace on the front hinges 9 rows
1) (1 cc, 3 VP, 1 Loop Skip) to the end of the series

Body.
White
Fold both legs together, side by side, with your fingers forward and connect them in the center of the 2 SBN
Forward/Backward (these 2 will be isolated in the middle of the legs and will not be
In the future), Mark and continue to knit on the back side of the 1st leg
(Note that the beginning of the series should be on the back of the leg).
1) 22 on the 1st leg, 22 on the 2nd leg = (44 in)
2) 44PB = (44 in)
3) 1 UB, 40 SBN, 1 UB = (42 in)
4) (5 SBN, 1 ub) x6 = (36 in)
5) (4 SBN, 1 ub) x6 = (30)
6) knit behind the back wall of the loop 30 SBN = (30)
Change to purple color.
7) (3 SBN, 1 ub) x6 = (24)
8) 24 SBN = (24)
9) knit behind the back wall of the loop 24 SBN = (24)
10) 24 = (24) Change to pink color.
11) 24 SBN = (24)
12) (4SBB, 1 ub) x4 = (20)
13) 20 SBN = (20)
14) (3SBN, 1 ub) x4 = (16)
15) 16 SBN = (16)
Change to flesh color.
16) 16 RVN. In this row you can attach your hands to the body or sew them in afterwards = (16)
17) 16 SBN = (16)
Beat it by placing a piece of wire that will support the head.
Shut down, cut off the thread, leaving the long end to sew the body to

Head.
Skirt
The white color is knit on the front loops of 6 rows.
1) 2 VP, (4 PRSs, 1 D) х6, 1 ss to close the row = (36 in)
2) 2 VP, (2 PRSs, 1 D) х9, 1 ss to close the row = (45 in)
3) 2 VP, 45 D PRSs, 1 cc to close the row = (90)4) 1 VP, 90 SBN = (90).
Skirt
The purple color is knit on the front loops of the ninth row.
1) 1 VP, 24 ol, 1 cc to close the row = (48 in)
2-5) 1 VP, 48 off, 1 SS to close the row = (48)
6) 1 VP, (6 SBN, 1 D) х6, 6 SBN, 1 cc to close the row = (54)
7-9) 1 VP, 54 off, 1 SS to close the row = (54)
Bow on dress
Purple Color Dial 7 VP
1) in the 2nd loop from the hook, 6 SBN, 1 vp, rotation = (6)
2-3) 6 SBN, 1 vp, rotation = (6)
4) to knit the item around the SBN
Several times to wrap the thread center to form a bow.

Head
Bodily Color Dial 12 VP
1) in the 2nd loop from the hook, 1 D, 9 SBN, 4 in one loop, on the opposite side, 9 SBN,
1 d = (26)
2) 2 D, 9 SBN, 4 D, 9 SBN, 2 d = (34 in)
3) (1 SBN, 1 D) x2, 9 SBN, (1 SBN, 1 D) х4, 9 SBN, (1 SBN, 1 d) x2 = (42)
4) (2 SBN, 1 D) x2, 9 SBN, (2 SBN, 1 D) X4, 9 SBN, (2 SBN, 1 d) x2 = (50)
5) 2 SBN, (1 PR, 1 SBN) х2, 13 SBN, (1 PR, 1 SBN) х2, 4 SBN,
(1 PR, 1 SBN) х2, 13 SBN, (1 PR, 1 SBN) х2, 2SBN = (58)
6) 58 Rн = (58 in)
7) 14 SBN, 1 UB, 27 SBN, 1 ub, 13 SBN = (56 in)
8-13) 56 Rne = (56)
14) (13 SBN, 1 d) x4 = (60)
15-21) 60 SBN = (60)
22) (3 SBN, 1 UB, 5 SBN) x6 = (54)
23) (7 SBN, 1 ub) x6 = (48 in)
24) (2 SBN, 1 UB, 4 SBN) x6 = (42)
For eyes: Cut 2 circles of white felt 2.2 cm in diameter
and 2 of the blue felt 2 cm in diameter.
Attach together with 2 safe eyes with a size of 15mm
Position your eyes between the 14th and 15th rows, at intervals of 10.
25) (5 SBN, 1 ub) x6 = (36 in)
26) (1 SBN, 1 UB, 3 SBN) x6 = (30)
27) (3 SBN, 1 ub) x6 = (24)
28) (1 UB, 2 SBN) x6 = (18)
29) (1 SBN, 1 ub) x6 = (12)
30) 6 UB = (6)
Stuff. Insert the wire from the body. You can use glue.
Make your nose more flesh-thread.
Embroider eyelashes and eyebrows with a black thread.

Hair
Brown color
1) 6 BC = (6)
2) 6 d = (12)
3) (1 SBN, 1 d) x6 = (18)
4) (2 SBN, 1 d) x6 = (24)
5) (3 SBN, 1 d) x6 = (30)
6) (1 SBN, 1 D, 3 SBN) x6 = (36)
7) (5 SBN, 1 d) x6 = (42 in)
8) (2 SBN, 1 D, 4 sbn) x6 = (48)
9) (7 SBN, 1 d) x6 = (54 in)
10) (3 SBN, 1 ol, 5 SBN) x6 = (60)
11-18) 60 SBN = (60)
The next series will be Rotary,
19) 1 VP, 1 loop Skip, 1 cc, 44 off, 1 loop skip, turn = (46 in)
20) 1 VP, 1 loop Skip, 42 off, 1 cc = (44 in)
Leave the long end to sew the hair on the head.
Bangs
Brown color
Dial 6 VP
1) in the 2nd loop from the hook, 5 sbn, turn = (5)
2-13) 1 VP, 5 SBN, turn = (5)

Beam
Brown color
1) 6 BC = (6)
2) 6 d = (12)
3) (1 SBN, 1 d) x6 = (18)
4) (2 SBN, 1 d) x6 = (24)
5) (3 SBN, 1 d) x6 = (30)
6) (1 SBN, 1 D, 3 SBN) x6 = (36)
7) (5 SBN, 1 d) x6 = (42 in)
8-9) 42 Rne = (42)
10) (5 SBN, 1 ub) x6 = (36 in)
11) 36 RVN = (36 in)
12) (1 SBN, 1 UB, 3 SBN) x6 = (30)
13) (3 SBN, 1 ub) x6 = (24)
Bow on the head
Pink Color
Dial 42 of the VP and close the Ring 1 SS.
1-12) 42 Rne = (42)
From the post loop to dial 13 VP, in the 2nd loop from the hook, 12 SBN. Wrap the center.

Bezel
Pink Color
Dial 40 VP and tie down.
Ear
Link to the CA (do not tighten)
1) 2 SBN, 1 SS, turn
2) Skip SS, 2 D, 1 SS, tighten the CA.
Collar on dress
Cut out the white felt and glue.

More Amigurumi Doll Ideas:

Amigurumi Girl Cat Free Pattern

Materials:
-Hook (suitable for the chosen yarn),
-Yarn (I used 100% cotton daisy from Vita),
-Swan Fluff and a suitable hook for him, a little, for hair, or anything else, at your discretion!
-Velcro or Puhoderka (this is if you use swan fluff for hair), to comb it,
-Copper wire for the frame,
-2 decorative buttons (for shorts),
-Mono-thread (I use it for stitching parts and Prishivala it wig),
-Needle, for stitching parts,
-Tinting for cheeks (I have a dry pastel),
-Filler for toys,
-Good mood!!!
The height of the finished toy 20 cm, this if you will use the same material as me!
The toy fits on a spiral behind both walls of a hinge if not specified another!
The colors of the yarn do not specify, as you want to see cats in a different color than mine!

Legend:

Ka-Ring Amigurumi

PRS-Column without a throw

Arr. -Raise

Ubav. – Decrease

Dual.-Double decrease (three loops to knit together)

VP-Air Loop

S. C – Connecting Column

PRSPs-Floor column with Crochets

Arr, PRSPs-floor with Crochets

Ubav, PRSPs-decrease floor with crochets

(…) -What is indicated in parentheses, repeat to the end of the series

Head:

1 -8 PRS in Amigurumi ring

2-8 arr = 16 PRS

3-(arr, 1SBN) 8 p = 24SBN

4-(ARR, 2 prs) 8 times = 32 PRS

5-(ARR, 3 prs) 8 times = 40 PRS

6-(ARR, 4 prs) 8 times = 48 PRS

7-(ARR, 5 prs) 8 times = 56 PRS

8-(ARR, 6 prs) 8 times = 64 PRS

9-19 Series = 64 PRS

20-(UBAV, 6 prs) 8 times = 56 PRS

21-(UBAV, 5 prs) 8 times = 48 PRS

22-(UBAV, 4 prs) 8 times = 40 PRS

23-(UBAV, 3 prs) 8 times = 32 PRS

24-(UBAV, 2 prs) 8 times = 24 PRS

Head down!

25-(UBAV, 1 prs) 8 times = 16 PRS

26-(UBAV, 2 prs) 4 times = 12 PRS

Fasten, trim, hide the thread.

Hands:

1-6 prs in ka = 6 prs

2-(1 PRS, arr) 3 times = 9 PRS

3-7 = 9 PRS

8-(1 PRS, UBAV) 3 times = 6 PRS

9-(1 PRS, arr) 3 times = 9 PRS

10-31 = 9 PRS

32-Arr, 8 PRS = 10 PRS

33 = 10 PRS

Finish. You can insert the wire. Do not beat!

Once I draw your attention to the fact that the legs tally the same only to 26 rows!

The marker should go on the side of the leg, if it starts to go sideways, then, you need to tie the hinge offset!

The legs are whipped in the course of knitting!

1-6 prs in Ring AM = 6 PRS

2-(4 prs in one loop, 2 prs) 2 times = 12 PRS

3-12 PRS

4-(4 PRS in one loop, 5 prs) 2 times = 18 PRS

5-8 = 18 PRS

9 – 3 PRS, 4 arr. PRSPs, 11 PRS = 22 Loops

10 – 3 PRS, 4 ubav. PRSPs, 11 PRS = 18 Loops

11 – (Dual. Ubav, 6 prs) 2 = 14 PRS

12 – (UBAV, 5 prs) 2 = 12 PRS

13 – 12 PRS

Here, if you crochet kitty slippers, change the color of the yarn!

14 – 12 PRs behind the back wall of the hinge

to the foot.

15 – 26 – 12 PRs (when knitting the second leg, then in the 26th row move the marker on the other side by up to shy loops of displacement-6 PRS)

27 – arr, 11 PRS = 13 PRS

28 – arr, 12 prs = 14 PRS

29 – 14 PRs

30 – Arr, 13 PRS

31 -15 PRS

32 – Arr, 14 PRS

33 – 34-16 PRS

35 – Arr, 15 PRS

36 – 17 PRs

37 – Arr, 16 PRS

38 – 18 PRs

39 – Arr, 17 PRS

40 – 19 PRs

41 – Arr, 18 PRS

42 – 20 PRS

43 – Arr, 19 PRs

44 – 21 PRS

45 – Arr, 20 PRS, SS

Finish! On the first leg thread presious, on the second continue to knit!

45-row for the second leg-arr, 10 PRs (it turns out that we do not dovjazyvaem the series to the end, the thread is not presious, continue to knit)

We recruit 6 who. Loops, connect with the second leg!

46 – 22 PRs on a leg, 6 PRs on a chain, 22 PRs on a leg, 6 prs on a chain = 56 PRS

47 – 52 – knit in a circle without changes = 56 PRS

53 – Make two decreases on the sides = 54 PRS

54 – 59 – Knitting without changes = 54 PRS

Take the spoke and pierces the filler in each leg, insert the wire!

Beat the course of knitting!

60-make two decreases on the sides of the BODY = 52 PRS

61-62-52 PRS

63-make two decreases on the sides of the BODY = 50 PRS

64-50 PRS

65-make two decreases on the sides of the BODY = 48 PRS

66-67-48 PRS

68-(UBAV, 6 prs) 6 times = 42 PRS

69-70-42 PRS

71-(UBAV, 5 prs) 6 times = 36 PRS

72-74-36 PRS

75-(UBAV, 4 prs) 6 times = 30 PRS

76-30 PRS

77-79 = 30 PRS

80-knit, tying the handles on the sides of the torso (5 PRS simultaneously capturing the loops of the arm and body) = 30 PRS

81-knit in a circle, not forgetting about the remaining loops of hands = 30 PRS

Insert the wire into the handles.

82-(UBAV, 3 prs) 6 times = 24 PRS

83-24 PRS

84-(UBAV, 2 prs) 6 times = 18 PRS

85-18 PRS

86-(UBAV, 1 prs) 6 times = 12 PRS

87-89 = 12 PRS

Finish! You can sew your head, tie and sew wig!

For my doll, which I crocheted № 1, the hair i crocheted № 3 (to make the hair-binding were softer), on the following principle, tied a chain of 2 air loops, in the second from a hook a loop has knitted 6 PRS, and further in ranks, has made raises, putting Hairs to the head of the doll, when I was arranged piglet on top of the top, I just started to knit rows, again trying to periodically on the doll, until I was satisfied with the result. Then I fastened and cut the thread, preliminary combed hairs-wig velcro, dressed on Head and came over the edges in a circle and again thoroughly combed.

After the hairs, we decorate the doll’s face. If you want the same face, be guided by the photo.

Ears:

1 – 4 PRs in the ring Amigurumi

2 – (arr, 1 prs) 2 = 6 PRS

3 – 6 PRS

4 – (arr, 2 prs) 2 = 8 PRS

5 – (arr, 3 prs) 2 = 10 PRS

6 – (arr, 4 prs) 2 = 12 PRS

7 – (ARR, 5 prs) 2 = 14 PRS

8 – (arr, 6 prs) 2 = 16 PRS

9 – (arr, 7 prs) 2 = 18 PRS

10 – 12 = 18SBN

Fasten, trim, hide the thread.

It is possible to sew ears to a head, not forgetting preliminary to try and to choose the position most liked to you!

Tail:

1 – 6 PRs in the ring Amigurumi

2 – (1 PRS, arr) 3 = 9 PRS

Then knit another 50 rows of 9 PRs in each.

Finish knitting Ponytail S. C, insert the Wire, ourself to doll, sew! We try not to bullying high tail, otherwise shorts not fit!

I inserted a ponytail somewhere between 52-54 rows of the body.

Knit lapels on pretty, if they are present.

Attach the thread to the left half-loops and knit in a circle one row PRSPs.

Shorts:

We recruit 58 who. Loops, join them in a ring and knit in a circle PRSPs.

1 – 3 = 58 PRSPs

4 – 12 PRSPs, 5 who. Loops (on the basis of skip 5 loops), 41 PRSPs

5 – 8 = 58 PRSPs

We begin to knit legs, each consists of 24 PRSPs.

1 – 4 = 24 PRSPs

5 – 6 = 24 PRS

Between the legs on each side should remain 5 loops, them, after having tied both legs, sew.

We recruit 46 who. Loops and with the third loop from the hook continue to knit until the end of the chain PRSPs.

Sew the straps, from the back, before you do not touch.

Knit a collar on the neck. 14 humidity loops and with the third hinge from a hook knit 12 PRSPs, lock on a neck, sew.

Top:

We are recruiting a chain of 37 who. Loops and with the third loop from the hook continue to knit turning rows.

1-35 PRSPs, turn, who. Loop

2-35 PRS, turn, 2 who. Loops

3-15 PRSPs, peak of 4 who. Loops, 22 PRSPs

Finish, leave the thread for stitching.

Dress on the doll, Sew stitch.

Now we can sew the straps on the shorts in the front!
All, our cat girl, ready!

More Amigurumi Doll Girl Ideas:

Many thanks to Designer: Fuzzy Fingi

FINISHED DIMENSIONS
Length: 3-5 cm (varies depending on yarn and hook
used)

MATERIALS
• Hook Size: 2.10 mm
• Earring hooks
• Jewelry wire & pliers (optional)
• Seed beads (optional for leaf and rose)
• Yarn Weight: you can use thread or fine/lace
weight yarn

NOTES:
• Optional instructions for beading will be written
between brackets like these: { }, the section
being replaced will be indicated by these
brackets: []
• The puff stitches I used for the Daisy Chain
earrings only use 3 yo, since any more would
make the stitch too large

ABBREVIATION
CROCHET TERMINOLOGY: CANADA/US
sl st: slip stitch
ch: chain
ch sp: chain space
sc: single crochet
hdc: half-double crochet
dc: double crochet
tr: treble crochet
mc: magic circle
sk: skip
yo: yarn over
st: stitch
rep: repeat

• * : repeat everything between these for the
  indicated number of times
  ( ) : everything between goes into the same stitch

Free Crochet Earring Pattern

DAISY CHAIN
This pattern for mismatching earrings. The longer earring may require wire if it ends up being very twisty, you will
also need beads for the center of each flower

LONG EARRING
Thread 3 beads onto yarn/thread for flowers before starting. Note that the front of the flower as shown in the
picture will actually be the back of the piece as you work on it.

Working in your flower colour yarn/thread:
ROW 1: slip knot, pull bead up to hook, ch1, ch1, puff, ch1, sl st rep 3 times total in one side of ch1 and 2 more
rep in other side of ch1
ROW 2: ch 5, pull up bead, ch1, ch1, puff, ch1, sl st rep 2 times total in one side of ch1, move the ch5 and
previous flower in front of your hook, 3 rep in other side of ch1

ROW 3: ch5, pull up bead, ch1, ch1, puff, ch1, sl st rep 3 times total in one side of ch1, move the ch5 and
previous flowers in front of your hook, 2 more rep in other side of ch1, do not bind off yet, later you will connect
this loop to the green yarn
Before adding the stem, I would recommend adding some wire to give your earring structure and prevent it from
twisting. It also lets you bend it into any position you’d like when you finish!

Adding wire:
Cut a length of wire about 1 to 2 cm longer than the length of your earring and thread it through the beads at the
center of each flower along the back of your piece

Using pliers, bend one end around a bead as shown below. This end will be the bottom of your earring. Make a
loop at the other end of the wire – this will be where you’ll attach your earrings later.

Working with your stem colour yarn/thread:
ROW 4: slip knot and attach to the loop at the end of row 3, chain along the backs of the flowers and sc around
both the wire and ch5 between the flowers

When you cut your yarn/thread, you may want to leave a longer tail to help sew closed the gaps between the
beads and puff flowers. You can do this by threading your yarn/thread through the puff stitch petals and pulling
the circle tight.
Attach your earring hook to the wire loop at the top of your piece or to a loop at either end of your work.

SHORT EARRING
The short earring only requires one bead, thread it onto your flower yarn before starting.

Working in flower colour yarn:
ROW 1: slip knot, pull bead up to hook, ch1, ch1, puff, ch1, sl st rep 3 times total in one side of ch1 and 2 more
rep in other side of ch1
Cut yarn and bind off. Like for the long earring, you may want to leave a tail to help close the gaps.
Working in stem colour:

ROW 1: slip knot, ch6, turn
ROW 2: sk 1, 1sc, 1hdc, 1dc, 1hdc, 1sc, ch2
ROW 3: continue working in the other side of the base ch6, 1sc, 1hdc, 1dc, 1hdc, 1sc, sl st into first sc from row 2
ROW 4: sl st into the back of the flower near the edge, ch11, sc into 2nd loop from the hook, sc around ch about 13
times, letting it curl naturally, sl st into the first sl st of this row
Again, you may want to leave more of a tail to pull the flower center tight. Attach your earring hook to a loop at
the top of your piece.

28 Crochet Earnings Ideas