The author of the doll about 38 cm, yarn 100% cotton.

Legend:
PRS-Column without a throw
UB-Ubava
D- Double
St- Stitch

Need: 
✨ Hook 2.5 mm 
✨ Eyes 10 mm 
✨ yarn Beige, white, grey. Light brown, pink, light grey and lilac

Amigurumi Sweet Doll Crochet Free Pattern

Head: 
Beige 
P 1:6 PRS in the ring 
P2: St (X6) – 12 PRS 
P3: * PRS, D * (X6) – 18 PRS 
P4: * 2 PRS, D * (X6) – 24 PRS 
P5: * 3 PRS, D * (X6) – 30 PRS 
F6: * 4 PRS, D * (X6) – 36 PRS 
P7: * 5 PRS, D * (X6) – 42 PRS 
F8: * 6 PRS, D * (X6) – 48 PRS 
P9: * 7 PRS, D * (X6) – 54 PRS 
F10: * 8 PRS, D * (X6) – 60 PRS 
P11: * 9 PRS, D * (X6) – 66 PRS 
P 12-21:66 PRS 
Between 14 and 15 rows place eyes at a distance of 6 loops. 
R22: * 9 PRS, UB * (X6) – 60 PRS 
R23: * 8 PRS, UB * (X6) – 54 PRS 
P24: * 7 PRS, UB * (X6) – 48 PRS 
Regulators: * 6 PRS, UB * (X6) – 42 PRS 
R26: * 5 PRS, UB * (X6) – 36 PRS 
P27: * 4 PRS, UB * (X6) – 30 PRS 
R28: * 3 PRS, UB * (X6) – 24 PRS 
Embroider nose width in 2 loops, retreating 3 rows of eyes 

Body: 
Beige 
P 1:6 PRS in the ring 
P2: St (X6) – 12 PRS 
P3: * PRS, D * (X6) – 18 PRS 
P4: * 2 PRS, D * (X6) – 24 PRS 
P5: * 3 PRS, D * (X6) – 30 PRS 
F6: * 4 PRS, D * (X6) – 36 PRS 
P7: * 5 PRS, D * (X6) – 42 PRS 
F8: * 6 PRS, D * (X6) – 48 PRS 
P9: * 7 PRS, D * (X6) – 54 PRS 
F10: * 8 PRS, D * (X6) – 60 PRS 
P11: * 9 PRS, D * (X6) – 66 PRS 
P 12-17:66 PRS 
Cutting: * 9 PRS, UB * (X6) – 60 PRS 
P 19-21:60 PRS 
R22: * 8 PRS, UB * (X6) – 54 PRS 
P 23-25:54 PRS 
R26: * 7 PRS, UB * (X6) – 48 PRS 
P 27-29:48 PRS 
R30: * 6 PRS, UB * (X6) – 42 PRS 
P 31-33:42 PRS 
P 34: * 5 PRS, UB * (X6) – 36 PRS 
P 35:36 PRS 
P 36: * 4 PRS, UB * (X6) – 30 PRS 
P 37:30 PRS 
P 38: * 3 PRS, UB * (X6) – 24 PRS 
P 39-42:24 PRS 
Fill and sew the head with the body. 

Hand (2): 
Beige 
P 1:6 PRS in the ring 
P2: St (X6) – 12 PRS 
P3: * PRS, D * (X6) – 18 PRS 
P 4-8:18 PRS 
P9: * UB, PRS (X6) – 12 PRS 
P 10-34:12 PRS 
The fill brush is denser than the arm. 
Fold in half and sew 6 stitches. 
Sew to the 8th row of the head.

Feet (2): 
White 
8 VP 
P1: In the second from the Hook loop, D, 5 PRS, 4 PRS in 1, on the second side, 5 PRS, D-18 PRS 
P2: PRS, D, 4 PRs, D (X6), 4 PRS, D, PRS – 26 PRS 
R 3:2 PRS, D, 4 PRS, * PRS, D * (X6), 4 PRS, D, PRS – 34 PRS 
P4: D, 9 PRs, D, * 2 PRS, D * (X5), 8 PRS – 41 PRS 
P5: PRS, D, 39 PRS – 42 PRS 
F6: Behind the back wall, 42 PRS 
Dark grey 
P 7-9:42 PRS 
P 10:12 PRS, UB, * 2 PRS, UB * 9×5), 8 PRS – 36 PRS 
P 11:36 PRS 
P 12:11 PRS, UB, * PRS, UB * (X5), 8 PRS – 30 PRS 
P 13:10 PRS, UB (X6), 8 PRS – 24 PRS 
P 14:24 PRS R15: * 2 PRS, UB * (X6) – 18 PRS 
P 16:18 PRS 
White 
P 17:18 PRS 
Cutting: For the front wall, 18 PRS 
P 19-21:18 PRS 
Beige 
with 18 rows 
R22: Behind the back wall, 18 PRS 
P 23-40:18 PRS 
P 41: * PRS, UB * (X6) – 12 PRS 
P 42: UB (X6) – 6 PRS 
Sew to the 18th row of the body 

Hat 
Lilac 
P 1:6 PRS in the ring 
P2: St (X6) – 12 PRS 
Behind the back wall each row, start with 2 VP, Finish S.P. 
P 3:2 V.P., * PSN, D * (X6) – 18 PSN 
P 4:2 V.P., * 2 PSN, D * (X6) – 24 PSN 
P 5:2 V.P., * 3 PSN, D * (X6) – 30 PSN 
P 6:2 V.P., * 4 PSN, D * (X6) – 36 PSN 
P 7:2 V.P., * 5 PSN, D * (X6) – 42 PSN 
P 8:2, p, * 6 PSN, D * (X6) – 48 PSN 
P 9:2 V.P., * 7 PSN, D * (X6) – 54 PSN 
P 19:2 V.P., * 8 PSN, D * (X6) – 60 PSN 
P 11:2 V.P., * 9 PSN, D * (X6) – 66 PSN 
P 12:2 V.P., * 10 PSN, D * (X6) – 72 PSN 
P 13:2 V.P., * 11 PSN, D * (X6) – 78 PSN 
P 14-22:78 PSN 
P 23:1 V.P., * 2 PRS, UB * (Х17), 8 PRS – 59 PRS 
P 24-25:1 V.P., 59 PRS 
P 26:1 V.P., * 4 PRS, UB * (x9), 5 PRS – 50 PRS 
P 27-30:2 V.P., PR PSN – 100 PSN 
R31: Rachij step. 

Wig: 
P 1:6 PRS in the ring 
P2: St (X6) – 12 PRS 
P3: * PRS, D * (X6) – 18 PRS 
P4: * 2 PRS, D * (X6) – 24 PRS 
P5: * 3 PRS, D * (X6) – 30 PRS 
F6: * 4 PRS, D * (X6) – 36 PRS 
P7: * 5 PRS, D * (X6) – 42 PRS 
F8: * 6 PRS, D * (X6) – 48 PRS 
P9: * 7 PRS, D * (X6) – 54 PRS 
F10: * 8 PRS, D * (X6) – 60 PRS 
P11: * 9 PRS, D * (X6) – 66 PRS 
F12: * 10 PRS, D * (X6) – 72 PRS 
P 13:72 PRS 
Next Knit Hair 
45 V.P., second from Hook Loop, S.P. in each loop, S.P. to Wig (x 62)
View all Images

Dress 
Pink 
P1:40 + 8 VP 
In 9 from the hook Loop 40 prs, turn-40 PRS 
P 2:1 V.P., * 2 PRS, D * (х13), PRS, turn – 53 PRS 
P 3:1 V.P., 6 PRS, 10 V.P., (skip 10 loops), 21 PRs, 10 V.P., (skip 10 loops), 6 PRS, turn-53 PRS 
P 4:1 V.P., 53 PRS, turn 
P 5:1 V.P., * 2 PRS, D * (Х17) 2 PRS – 70 PRS 
P 6:1 V.P., * PRS, D * (x 34), 2 PRS – 104 PRS 
P 7-8:1 V.P., 104 PRS 
P 9:8 V.P., 104 PRS 
P 10-14:1 V.P., 104 PRS 
Then knit in a circle. 
P 15-29:1 V.P., 104 PRS 
P 30:1 V.P., UB, 103 PRS 
P 31:1 V.P., UB, 102 PRS 
Strapping dresses: 
P1: * 3 VP, 2 loops Skip, S.P. * All over the row 
P 2:1 S.P. in the first arch, 3 V.P., 2 PRSs together, 2 V.P., 3 PRSs together, 2 V.P., 2 PRSs together, PRs. 

Apron: 
White 
P 1:15 V.P., start in the second from the Hook 15 prs, turn 
P 2-16:1 V.P., 14 PRS, turn 
P 17:4 V.P., 3 ss2n, 3 PRSs, 3 PSN, 3 PRS, 2 S.P. 

Shorts: 
White 
P 1:60 V.P. 
P 2:3 V.P., 1 loop Skip, 1 PSN, 1 VP, 1 Loop Skip, 1 PSN, 1 VP, 1 Loop Skip, 1 PSN, 1 VP, 1 loop Skip 
P 3-8:3 V.P., 1 PRSs in each loop 
Knitting leg. 
P 9:3 V.P., 30 PRSs, turn 
P 10:3 V.P., 30 PRSs, turn 
P 11:3 V.P., D in each loop, turn 
P 12:3 V.P., PRSs in each loop, turn 
P 13:3 V.P., OL in each loop. 
Similarly knitting the second leg 

Flower: 
P1: In the ring Amigurumi 3 V.P., 2 PRSs, 3 V.P., 1 S.P. (x4)

Jacket: 
P 1:4 V.P. in the ring, 3 V.P., 2 PRSs in the ring, * 3 PRSs, 2 V.P. * (X5) 
P 2:3 V.P., rotation, 2 PRSs in the Arch, 2 V.P., 3 PRSs in the same arch, * 1 V.P., 3 PRSs in the Arch, 2 V.P., 3 PRSs in the same arch * (X5), 2 V.P. P 3:3 V.P., rotation, 2 PRSs in the arch, * 1 V.P., 3 PRSs, 2 V.P., 3 PRSs in the same arch, 1 V.P., 3 PRSs * (X5) 
P 4:3 V.P., rotation, 2 PRSs, * 1 VP, 3 PRSs, 2 VP, 3 PRSs in the same arch, 1 VP, 3 PRSs, 1 VP, 3 PRSs, 1 VP, 3 PRSs * (X5), 1 VP, 3 PRSs, 1 VP 
P 5:3 V.P., turn, 2 PRSs in the Arch, 1 V.P., 3 PRSs, * 1 V.P., 3 PRSs, 2 V.P., 3 PRSs in the same arch, 1 V.P., 3 PRSs, 1 V.P., 3 PRSs, 1 V.P., 3 PRSs * (X5), 1 V.P., 3 PRSs, 2 V.P., 3 PRSs, 1 VP , 3 PRSs, 1b. P. 
Knit similar to the second part, fold the letter L, Obvjazyvaem and sew.

More Amigurumi Doll Ideas:

Material

• 3mm crochet hook
• DK yarn in color of choice
• Tiny bit of yarn/thread in black and white for the embroidery
• 8mm safety eyes

If making a baby bat:

• 2mm crochet hook
• 4ply/baby yarn in color of choice
• Tiny bit of yarn/thread in black and white for the embroidery
• 6mm safety eyes

Abbreviations (US)

• MC: magic circle
• 2-sc inc: 2 sc in next st (increase by 1)
• 3-sc inc: 3 sc in next st (increase by 2)
• sc2tog: 2 sc together (decrease by 1)
• sc3tog: 3 sc together (decrease by 2)
• sl st: Slip stitch
• ch: Chain

Instructions

This pattern is made in a spiral of continuous rounds

Amigurumi Cute Bat Free Pattern

Ears (make 2)

Finish off, sew the ends together to close the gap.

Finish off. Leave long tail. Don’t stuff.

Sew the end of the each ear together to close it off flat as shown in the picture below, don’t cut the remaining yarn tail. You’ll need it to sew the ear to the body:

Wings (Make 2)

The wings will probably curl on itself. To make it stay flat you will need to “Block” it. You do it by thoroughly wetting the wings with water, gently squeezing the excess (do not wring or twist), then pin each wing to a flat surface as indicated in the picture below until it drys. I used a yoga foam block but you can use any other surface that can be pinned. As you pin the wings, stretch them slightly to the shape you want as it helps them keep shape.

Assembly 

Using a sewing needle:

• Using the remaining yarn tail, sew the ears to the top of the head. Attach one end of each ear on R4 and the other on R7.

• The yarn tail for the wings need to be sewn into the wing a bit so that the tail pops out of area highlighted with a circle below. Don’t sew it tight as you want the wing nub to remain visible for a bat wing shape.

• Sew the wing into the body using the yarn tail that remains from the step above. Attach one end to R14 and the other to R10. Repeat for the other wing.

More Amigurumi Bat Ideas:

Size

Will fit any of my larger long-legged animals like this bunny and cat.

Materials & Tools

– Yarn. It is best to use the same brand of yarn for the body and the shoes.
– Crochet hook according to the yarn.
– Stuffing – polyester fiberfill, wool, wadding etc.
– Yarn needle, scissors, stitch marker.

Abbreviations

– st = stitch
– ch = chain stitch 
– sl st = slip stitch 
– sc = single crochet stitch 
– hdc = half double crochet stitch 
– dc = double crochet stitch 
– fp-hdc = front post half double crochet stitch (see below)
– sc n = make n single crochet stitches (or ch, hdc etc.), one in each stitch 
– inc = increase – make two single crochet stitches in to the same stitch 
– inc3 = double increase – three single crochet stitches in to the same stitch
– dc-inc3 = crochet three double crochet stitches in to the same stitch
– dec = invisble decrease – crochet two single crochet stitches together 
– sc2tog = regular decrease – crochet two single crochet stitches together
– (sc 2, inc) x n = repeat the pattern between parentheses n times 
– (24) = number of stitches in a round after finishing said round

Notes

– The soles are worked in spiral. Start joining rounds from row 4.
– Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to mark the end or the beginning of a round. Move the marker up after completing each round. 
– All stitches are worked in to both loops unless stated otherwise in the pattern.

Amigurumi Doll Shoes Free Pattern

Shoes

Worked from the center of the sole (tutorial).

1: ch 9, two sc in to the second chain from
hook, sc 6, four sc in to the first chain

Turn and work on other side of beginning chain.

sc 6, two sc in to the last chain (four total)
2: inc3, sc 4, hdc, dc 2, dc-inc3 x 4, dc 2, 
hdc, sc 5 = (30)
3: inc x 3, sc 8, inc x 2, sc 1, inc, sc 2, inc, 
sc 1, inc x 2, sc 9 = (39)

Sc in next st, sl st in next st. Move the stitch 
marker in to the sl st and count it as the round 
end from now on.

Crochet round 4 through the back loops only.

4: sl st, ch 2, sc 38, join the round with a 
sl st through the second chain = (39)
5: ch 2, sc 12, hdc, dc 13, hdc, sc 11, 
join with a sl st = (39)
6: ch 2, sc 8, hdc 3, (fp-hdc, hdc 2) x 6, 
hdc, sc 8, join with a sl st = (39)
7: ch 2, sc 8, hdc 3, ( fp-hdc, skip a st, 
hdc) x 6, hdc 2, sc 7, join sl st = (33)
8: ch 2, sc 8, dec, sc, (fp-hdc, skip one 
st) x 6, sc, dec, sc 6, join sl st = (25) 
9: ch 2, sc 7, dec, sc, dec x 3, sc, dec,
sc 5, join with a sl st = (20)

Crochet a row of slip stitches between rows 
8 and 9 (see below). Make a bow and sew it 
on. Stuff the shoes lightly.

Switch to “body yarn” and crochet the first
row of the legs through the back loops only.
Continue crocheting the legs in spiral.

10(leg): (sc 1, sc2tog) x 6, sc 2 = (14)

Crochet a row of single crochet stitches into
the front loops of row 9 with the “shoe yarn”.

10(shoe): ch, sc in each stitch, join with
a sl st = (20)

Cut the yarn and fasten off neatly (tutorial 2).
Continue crocheting the legs following your
pattern.

Bow

Work all stitches in to an adjustable loop.

1: (ch 3, dc 2, sc) x 2

Draw the center tightly closed. Cut the yarn,
leaving a long yarn tail and fasten off. Wrap 
the yarn tail around the center a few times 
and knot the yarn tails togeteher.

Front post half double crochet stitch

Embellishments

a) Make a bow. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing.

b) Crochet a row of slip stitches between rows 8 and 9. Start where you plan to sew the bow.

Sew on the bow, covering the place where the end and the beginning of the row of slip stitches meet. Finish the shoes and stuff them. Continue crocheting the legs.

You will need:
Worsted Size 4 Yarn in a skin color, main color and accent color (about 150g total)
Yarn for hair
Crochet Hook in Size 3.5
Yarn Needle
Polyfil (this kind is the ABSOLUTE best for amigurumi)
10.5 mm safety eyes
stitch marker
Foam Hair Roller (see this post for more information)close

Abbreviations
SC- single crochet

SC INC- single crochet increase (2 SC in each stitch)

INV DEC- Invisible decrease (put hook through the FRONT LOOP ONLY of two consecutive stitches [two loops on hook] Yarn over pull through both loops. [two loops on hook] Yarn over pull through two loops)

Magic Circle- Make a loop, leaving a long tail to work with. Insert hook in center of loop, yarn over and draw up a loop. Yarn over, pull through to make the first chain (this does not count as a stitch!). Continue to crochet over the loop and tail with the number of stitches called for. (If you need 6 SC, then crochet 6 SC inside the ring.) Pull the tail to close the circle.
Always move your stitch marker to the last stitch in the round. This pattern is worked in continuous rounds.

To change color- Start your stitch, but pull the new color through the final loop. In the next stitch, very lightly slip stitch instead of a single crochet. Continue on as normal. This helps make the transition easier and look smoother.

Amigurumi Friendly Superhero Free Pattern

Let’s begin! 
Mask (even though you are making the mask, you won’t attach it until the end. It will help to place the eyes and hair however, so I recommend making it first.)
Using the accent color:
Chain 22. DC in the 3 chain from hook. DC in each across. Turn. (20 DC)
Chain 15. Count 9 DC over. Slip stitch to the 9th DC. Slip stitch in the next 3. Chain 15 more and connect it with a slip stitch to the last DC. Chain 1 and turn. HDC in the next 13 chains. Skip one and slip stitch to the next. Slip stitch in the next (this is the gap between the eyes). Slip stitch to the chain. Skip one on the next set of chains and HDC in the next 13. Connect with a slip stitch to the last DC. Fasten off leaving a long tail to attach the mask to the face.

Legs (using the Super Boots color)
Round 1: In a magic circle, SC 6
Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: SC in first, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (18)
Round 4-15: SC in each stitch around. (18)
Change to main color here.
Rounds 16-38: SC in each stitch around. (18)
Fasten off.
Repeat for the second leg but do not fasten off. Instead, chain 3 and then SC in the next stitch of the other leg. Take care to crochet over the tail left over by fastening off. SC around the entire leg. When you come to the three chains, SC in each chain around the next leg. SC over the chain back to the other leg. In the last SC on the last chain place your stitch marker. (This is round 39.)
Watch this video on how to attach the legs if you need additional help!
Body
Round 40: SC around. (42)
Rounds 41-46: SC in each around. (42)
Change to accent color for the belt.
Rounds 47-50: SC around (42)
Back to main color.
Rounds 51-60: SC around (42)
Round 61: 4 SC, INV DEC, repeat around. (35)
Round 62: 3 SC, INV DEC, repeat around. (28)
Round 63: 2 SC, INV DEC, repeat around.(21)
Change to skin color.
Round 64: 1 SC, INV DEC, repeat around. (14)
Round 65: SC in each stitch around. (14) 
INV DEC until you have 12 stitches on the round. From here we will be increasing the head. From this point I am resetting the number on the rounds. Round 66 of the body is now Round 1 of the head. It will be easy to see and helps for eye/mask placement and general counting.

Head
Round 1: SC in first, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (18)
Round 2: SC in first 2, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (24)
Round 3: SC in first 3, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (30)
Round 4: SC in first 4, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (36)
Round 5: SC in first 5, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (42)
Round 6: SC in first 6, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (48)
Round 7: SC in first 7, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (54)
Round 8-23: SC in each stitch around. (54)

Place the safety eyes in between rows 15 and 16, nine stitches apart. Line up your mask to make sure that they fit well. Sew on eyelashes here. See Best Tips and Tricks for Crochet Doll Faces. This is also a good time to place the foam roller or dowel if you are using one. Make sure to stuff the neck around the dowel as well as you can. See this post for more information.
Round 24: SC in the first 7, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (48)
Round 25: SC in the first 6, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (42)
Round 26: SC in the first 5, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (36)
Round 27:  SC in the first 4, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (30)
Round 28: SC in the first 3, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (24)
Round 29: SC in the first 2, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (18)
Round 30: SC in the first, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (12)
Round 30: INV DEC around. (6)
Fasten off and carefully sew the remaining hole closed. Leave a long tail to make the nose.

More Amigurumi Superhero Ideas:

Many thanks to Designer: Fuzzy Fingi

FINISHED DIMENSIONS
Length: 3-5 cm (varies depending on yarn and hook
used)

MATERIALS
• Hook Size: 2.10 mm
• Earring hooks
• Jewelry wire & pliers (optional)
• Seed beads (optional for leaf and rose)
• Yarn Weight: you can use thread or fine/lace
weight yarn

NOTES:
• Optional instructions for beading will be written
between brackets like these: { }, the section
being replaced will be indicated by these
brackets: []
• The puff stitches I used for the Daisy Chain
earrings only use 3 yo, since any more would
make the stitch too large

ABBREVIATION
CROCHET TERMINOLOGY: CANADA/US
sl st: slip stitch
ch: chain
ch sp: chain space
sc: single crochet
hdc: half-double crochet
dc: double crochet
tr: treble crochet
mc: magic circle
sk: skip
yo: yarn over
st: stitch
rep: repeat

• * : repeat everything between these for the
  indicated number of times
  ( ) : everything between goes into the same stitch

Free Crochet Earring Pattern

DAISY CHAIN
This pattern for mismatching earrings. The longer earring may require wire if it ends up being very twisty, you will
also need beads for the center of each flower

LONG EARRING
Thread 3 beads onto yarn/thread for flowers before starting. Note that the front of the flower as shown in the
picture will actually be the back of the piece as you work on it.

Working in your flower colour yarn/thread:
ROW 1: slip knot, pull bead up to hook, ch1, ch1, puff, ch1, sl st rep 3 times total in one side of ch1 and 2 more
rep in other side of ch1
ROW 2: ch 5, pull up bead, ch1, ch1, puff, ch1, sl st rep 2 times total in one side of ch1, move the ch5 and
previous flower in front of your hook, 3 rep in other side of ch1

ROW 3: ch5, pull up bead, ch1, ch1, puff, ch1, sl st rep 3 times total in one side of ch1, move the ch5 and
previous flowers in front of your hook, 2 more rep in other side of ch1, do not bind off yet, later you will connect
this loop to the green yarn
Before adding the stem, I would recommend adding some wire to give your earring structure and prevent it from
twisting. It also lets you bend it into any position you’d like when you finish!

Adding wire:
Cut a length of wire about 1 to 2 cm longer than the length of your earring and thread it through the beads at the
center of each flower along the back of your piece

Using pliers, bend one end around a bead as shown below. This end will be the bottom of your earring. Make a
loop at the other end of the wire – this will be where you’ll attach your earrings later.

Working with your stem colour yarn/thread:
ROW 4: slip knot and attach to the loop at the end of row 3, chain along the backs of the flowers and sc around
both the wire and ch5 between the flowers

When you cut your yarn/thread, you may want to leave a longer tail to help sew closed the gaps between the
beads and puff flowers. You can do this by threading your yarn/thread through the puff stitch petals and pulling
the circle tight.
Attach your earring hook to the wire loop at the top of your piece or to a loop at either end of your work.

SHORT EARRING
The short earring only requires one bead, thread it onto your flower yarn before starting.

Working in flower colour yarn:
ROW 1: slip knot, pull bead up to hook, ch1, ch1, puff, ch1, sl st rep 3 times total in one side of ch1 and 2 more
rep in other side of ch1
Cut yarn and bind off. Like for the long earring, you may want to leave a tail to help close the gaps.
Working in stem colour:

ROW 1: slip knot, ch6, turn
ROW 2: sk 1, 1sc, 1hdc, 1dc, 1hdc, 1sc, ch2
ROW 3: continue working in the other side of the base ch6, 1sc, 1hdc, 1dc, 1hdc, 1sc, sl st into first sc from row 2
ROW 4: sl st into the back of the flower near the edge, ch11, sc into 2nd loop from the hook, sc around ch about 13
times, letting it curl naturally, sl st into the first sl st of this row
Again, you may want to leave more of a tail to pull the flower center tight. Attach your earring hook to a loop at
the top of your piece.

28 Crochet Earnings Ideas

Abbreviations
MG : magic ring
SC: single crochet
INC: Increase, (2 sc in the same hole)
DEC: Decrease (sink in two holes and exit at once)
HDC : Double Crochet
DC : Double Crochet
TC : Treble Crochet
BLO : Knitting from the back loop
Knitted from FLO front loop
cc loop shift
CH: Chain
W: 3 sc in the same hole
M : Missing with 3 sc
VHDC 2 HDCs to the same location

Amigurumi Clown Free Pattern

Body

1. MG 6SC
2. (INC)*6SC = 12SC
3. (SC, INC)*6 = 18SC
4. 2SC, INC
5. 3SC
6. 4SC
7. 5SC
8. 6SC
9. 7SC, INC
10. -17) 54SC

18. change color 54SC
19. 7SC, DEC = 48SC
20. change color 7SC, DEC = 48SC
21. change color 48SC
22. 6SC ,DEC 42SC
23. -24) 42SC
24. 5SC, DEC = 36SC
25. -28) 36SC

Note: 2 rows of the same color 1 row of colors (proceed in this way until the skin color is gone

29. 4SC ,DEC = 30SC
30. -32) 30SC

33. (8SC ,DEC) = 27SC
34. 27SC
35. (7SC ,DEC) = 24SC
36. 24SC
37. by making 245 SC blos to switch to skin color
38. (2SC ,DEC)*6 = 18SC
39. -41) finish by 18SC

Note: Make 24SC in the place where the blo is made, make 3 treble crochets in each loop. knit the last row in each loop with yarn and finish.

Cap

1) MG 6SC

2) 6INC = 12SC

3) (SC,INC) =18SC

4) (2SC, INC) =24SC

5) (3SC, ,INC) =30SC

6) BLO until the end of the row 30SC

7-11) 30SC

12) Pull 3 chains make triple railing Then make 2 triple railings every Make one single railing Combine with CC

13) Make 3 chains in each loop 2 times triple tabzan CC finish

(knit a flower on it and sew)

Nose

1. MG 6SC
2. 6INC = 12SC  
3. (SC ,INC) =18SC-
4. -7) Finish 18SC

hat flower

1. MG 6SC with yellow
2. 10 ch each SC with red
3. SC into chains

Note: Or Optionally, double-stitch in each single crochet up to 3 rows.

3SC to 4 rows, INC

4SC INC in 4 rows

Arms with nude

1. 8 CH, start from 2nd 6SC, last chain w to the other side OF CH 5SC, INC 16SC
2. INX, 5SC,( INC)* 3 , 5SC, (INC)*2 = 22SC
3. INC, 9SC, INC, 11SC =24SC
4. -7) 24SC

8. DEC, 10SC, DEC, 10SC =22SC
9. 22SC
10. DEC, 8SC, DEC, 8SC, =19SC
11. 8SC, DEC, 9SC = 18SC
12. 7SC, DEC, 7SC, DEC = 16SC
13. DEC, 6SC, DEC, 6SC = 14SC
14. -40 ) 14SC

41. Finish 5SC, DEC, 5SC, DEC =12SC

Note: (Switch to the other color in the 14th row. knit for one row by INC and Blo). Sink with the color you will use in the place where the blo is made. make a CH, add hdc to the end of the row, make double crochet. make two CH, in the other row, make 2 double crochets in each SC. Make SC to the end of the row with another color, finish with INC.

Pants

1. 36CH and make a ring
2. 36SC
3. 36SX by making blo
4. -16 ) 36SC
5. Knit the other leg like this

• trousers continuation
  1. Combine with the other piece by making 1 chain 2SC, from the 1st leg to the 2nd leg make 36SC and it will be 72SC
  2. -16) 72SC
  17. (10SC, DEC)*6 = 66SX
  18. 66SC
  19. 4SC, DEC (9SX, DEC) *5, 5SC =60SC finish

Note: For the hangers, attach a rope to the place you set on the back and pull 45 CH. Make a double crochet in the 9th stitch of CH and continue in this way until the end. Combine with cc to pants. do the same on the other side, leaving 13 SC spaces. sew a button to the front of the trousers. Cross the straps and attach them to the buttons on the front.

1. Make 14 CH, starting from 3 CH and until the end, make 12 DC
2. Make 2 CH and make 12 DC
3. Make 2 ​​CH and make 12 DC
4. Make 12 SC in the last row and knit 2 pieces from it
5. other patch
6. Make 17 CH, knit 3 CH and make DC from the beginning to the end.
7. Make 2 CH, return to the end of the row, do double crochet, SC to the last row, INC until the end of the row and finish (will sew with vertical black thread to the appropriate places on the trousers).
8. pant ruffle
9. Put the yarn on the 13th leg, make double CH, DC in each stitch until the end of the row, make 2 HDC, make 2 CH, make the loops in DC until the end of the row
10. feet and legs
11. pull 8 chains from 2 chains 6SC,w, 5SC, INC = 16SC
12. INC, 5SC, 3INC, 5SC, 2INC =22SSC
13. SC, INC 5SC, (SC, INC)*3.5SC (2SC,INC)*2 = 28SC
14. 2SC, INC 5SC, (2SC, INC)*3.5SC (2SC,INC)*2 = 28SC
15. 3SC, INC, 5SC, (3SC, INC)*3.5SC (3SC,INC)*2 = 36SC
16. -14) 40SC (8 rows)
    15. (18SC, DEC) *2 =38SC
    16. (17SC, DEC) *2 =36SC
    17. (16SC, DEC) *2 =34SC
    18.  7SC, DEC, 6SC,DEC, 7SX, DEC, 6SC, DEC =30SC
    19. 30SC
    20. (13 SC, DEC) *2 =28SC
    21. -22) 28SC
    23. 21SC 1 Chain turn
    24. 1INC, 19SC, 1INC, 1 CH, turn
    25. 25-26) 23SC
    27. Chain 23SC 7 and tie it to the opposite side
    28. Back of the foot:
    29. After connecting the CH to the opposite side, make 11DEC by sinking a loop into the back side, 7SC on the CH, then always decrease.
    30. 28) put the rope back where the CH is, 7 SC on top of the CH, 5 SC on the side, 7SC on the side, 5 SC on the waist, 24 SC on the other hand
    31. 29-31) 24 SC 3 rows
    32. 32) FLO 24x

We will continue from where the FLO in the leg is done.

1. changes color 12SC ,DEC ,11SC =24SC
2. ( 4SC,DEC)* 4 = 20SC
3. change color 20SC (two rows)
4. In this way, both yellows change a color and come up to 38 rows and finish

HEAD

1. MG 6SC
2. 6INC = 12SC
3. (SC,INC) = 18SC
4. (2SC,INC) = 24SC,
5. (3SC,INC) = 30SC
6. (4SC,INC) = 36SC
7. (5SC,INC) = 42SC
8. (6SC,INC) = 48SC
9. (7SC,INC) = 54SC
10. (8SC,INC) =60SC
11. (9SC,INC) = 66SC
12. -24 ) = 66SC
    25. (10SC,INC) =72SC
    26. (11SC,INC) =78SC
    27. 78SC
    28. 78SC
    29. 78SC
    30. 78SC
    31. 78SC
    32. (9SC, DEC) = 72SC
    33. (10SC ,DEC) = 66SC
    34. (9SC, DEC) = 60SC
    35. (8SC, DEC) = 54SC
    36. (7SC, DEC) = 48SC
    37. (6SC, DEC) = 42SC
    38. (5SC, DEC) = 36SC
    39. (4SC, DEC) = 30SC
    40. (3SC, DEC) = 24SC
    41. (2SC, DEC) = 18SC

Amigurumi 3 Clown Gallery

Amigurumi Cute Fox Free Pattern Material

For the smaller Fox I used the following:

• 3mm crochet hook
• DK yarn in orange, black and white
• 8mm safety eyes, small triangular nose
• Tapestry needle
• Stuffing

For the larger fluffy Fox I used the following material:

• 7mm crochet hook
• Chunky Chenille yarn in orange, black and white.
• 20mm button eyes, large triangular nose
• Tapestry needle
• Stuffing

The instructions apply to both sized foxes, if there are any differences I’ll indicate them clearly.

Abbreviations (US)

• MC: Magic circle
• 2-sc inc: 2 sc in next st (increase by 1)
• 3-sc inc: 3 sc in next st (increase by 2)
• sc2tog: 2 sc together (decrease by 1)
• sc3tog: 3 sc together (decrease by 2)

Instructions

This pattern is made in a spiral of continuous rounds

To change color, use old color to do the first yarn over, then use new color to do the last yarn over and draw through both loops on hook to complete stitch. The stitch will count toward the old color but the following stitches will have the new color. To make it easier I’ll indicate the stitch where the color change happen with a comment (old color ➤ new color)

Let’s say the instructions are: sc x 6 (orange), sc (orange ➤ white) , sc (white)

It means sc x 6 orange, sc with orange for the first yarn over then do the second yarn over with white (still looks like an orange sc), then do one sc with white.

Body (make 1)

Sew the ends together to close the gap

Snout (make 1)

Start with orange yarn:

Do one slip stitch with orange then finished off, leaving a long tail from both the orange and white yarn. Later we will be using both yarn tails to sew it into the fox body. Insert the nose into the center of the magic circle. Stuff.

Ears (make 2)

Leave long tail. Do not stuff

Sew the end of the ears together flat as shown in the picture:

Tail (make 1)

Leave long tail. Stuff very lightly don’t over-stuff.

Legs (make 4)

Leave long tail. Do not stuff

Assembly

Start by attaching the snout on the fox body between the eyes. The snout is placed on R10 at the top and R13 at the bottom. The white side should be at the bottom as in the picture. Use the orange yarn tail to attach the snout to the orange parts, use the white yarn tail to attach the snout to the white parts of the body. This way it looks more seamless.

Attach the unstuffed legs to the bottom of the fox body. You can place them as you wish. You can see how I prefer to place them in the picture on the left. Tip, use pins to see how they look like before you sew them in. Also note that I also attach the middle of the leg to the body so it stays flat to the body. So it’s not just attached on one end to the body.

Attach the tail at the back of the body on R11 and R12. If you want the tail to wrap around the body a bit more attach the tail a bit more to the body on the side. as per the picture.

Attach the ears so one end is on R3 and the other end is on R8. For extra cuteness place them so they curve a little as per the following two pictures.

Note that the other end of the ear is placed a bit further back on the side. This side view shows it better.

More Amigurumi Fox Ideas: